Kolm 135 install in CARF Mustang
#526
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Here are some pictures of how I hard installed the engine only supporting the back.
She proved very strong in the air, so much so that after crashing braking the fuselage and left wing in halve the front fuselage including fire wall remained intact, definitely stronger than it needs to be.
I am building a second one and started a thread on rcscalebuilder.com lots more pictures there, will do similar intallation
She proved very strong in the air, so much so that after crashing braking the fuselage and left wing in halve the front fuselage including fire wall remained intact, definitely stronger than it needs to be.
I am building a second one and started a thread on rcscalebuilder.com lots more pictures there, will do similar intallation
LOL, mine did same thing, I smoked the wings and took the tail off right behind the canopy... front remained unscathed. Grafted another tail onto it. So you didn't support the front of the motor? Is that a 100 or 135?
#527
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DrScoles
Mine is kolm il 135cc.
nice repair job I did think of doing something similar but without an intact fuse and without a jig there is a chance that i spend months repairing to when flying time comes and proves to have wrong incidences
Mine is kolm il 135cc.
nice repair job I did think of doing something similar but without an intact fuse and without a jig there is a chance that i spend months repairing to when flying time comes and proves to have wrong incidences
#528
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My buddy had two complete kits, this was an old fiber classics kit... so I got the wings and fuse from him, worked out well. I didn't have a jig, just eyeballed, and it was going from the foam core to straight fiberglass.... kinda scary, but worked out well. It has flown. :-)
#530
i agree. you need really hard rubbers. otherwise the 2zylinder will shake a lot.
also you cowling needs to be seperated in to halfs. with installed baffling you will not be able to bring the cowling on and off.
looks good. go on!
My voodoo project is back on the bench. fews weeks left on the "skin" befor i can start with engine istallation.
also you cowling needs to be seperated in to halfs. with installed baffling you will not be able to bring the cowling on and off.
looks good. go on!
My voodoo project is back on the bench. fews weeks left on the "skin" befor i can start with engine istallation.
#531
Join Date: Jan 2015
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Thanks for the pics and the info guys.
Good you got it flying Dr Scoles,you told me about breaking the prop before,would have been scary alright.
Yes Tom i have the cooling all worked out involving an EDF, more progress has been made since these pictures were taken,i was deliberating over the Kolm install but i'll just use the rear mount now.
The main reason i want to do away with the front mount is because i can't get the engine out with the mount on the front.
Flygono,what thickness ply did you use for the firewall?
Good you got it flying Dr Scoles,you told me about breaking the prop before,would have been scary alright.
Yes Tom i have the cooling all worked out involving an EDF, more progress has been made since these pictures were taken,i was deliberating over the Kolm install but i'll just use the rear mount now.
The main reason i want to do away with the front mount is because i can't get the engine out with the mount on the front.
Flygono,what thickness ply did you use for the firewall?
#533
What they call an ISB box also arrived. It takes a 3 or 4 cell lipo in and powers the ignition, starter motor and the fuel pump. Operates off of just on switch on the transmitter. Hard to see in the wrapping but there's 3 leds to help you figure out what's going on.
#534
So the jist of the box is a single three or four cell lipo feeds the starter motor, the fuel pump and ignition system. The ISB box also replaces an ignition kill switch. Think of the isb as your fuel pump controller because that's the receiver channel you program to operate the pump based on throttle position.
the 4 cell was needed to start the 135. Too much compression for the 3 cell. Maybe way later after the engine is broken in a 3 cell might work.
Last edited by luckymacy; 11-21-2016 at 09:41 AM.
#536
Join Date: Jan 2015
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Jamie
I plan to use the same cooling idea,did this work for you?
I take it the fan sucks the cool air through the baffle and heads then pushes hot air out through the radiators?
Thanks
Rob
I plan to use the same cooling idea,did this work for you?
I take it the fan sucks the cool air through the baffle and heads then pushes hot air out through the radiators?
Thanks
Rob
Last edited by banjbob1; 11-22-2016 at 07:28 AM.
#537
http://www.cs-scale-concepts.de/index.php
Last edited by luckymacy; 11-21-2016 at 09:49 AM.
#542
Join Date: Aug 2006
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great that you got her fliying again dr scioles!!! love these babies......
my mustangs keep getting bigger...H9, TF, Ziroli, Carf and now Chad Veich!
got my Kolm 230 semi installed in the Chad Veich all wood P51 (112") and working on duct work from all balsa, and baffling soon...I might try an EDF in middle of fuse if need be via back big scoop....but will try cowl chin air in first. Hope the ducts are big enough??? used BVM heat shield on hot air out to prevent warping balsa, over resin first.
any recommondations on best edf units?
so gotz was saying rubber mounts up front only? but you are saying no? where do you get them anyhow?
my mustangs keep getting bigger...H9, TF, Ziroli, Carf and now Chad Veich!
got my Kolm 230 semi installed in the Chad Veich all wood P51 (112") and working on duct work from all balsa, and baffling soon...I might try an EDF in middle of fuse if need be via back big scoop....but will try cowl chin air in first. Hope the ducts are big enough??? used BVM heat shield on hot air out to prevent warping balsa, over resin first.
any recommondations on best edf units?
so gotz was saying rubber mounts up front only? but you are saying no? where do you get them anyhow?
Last edited by Hello82; 12-10-2016 at 06:20 AM.
#543
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Wow, quite a build! Is that true 1/4 scale? I made the spacers with my lathe. Wish I had the experience/skills/time to attempt a scratch build. If the front of the fuse is strong enough, I would consider metal mounts, although I never tried a mix of the two. My rubber mount experience scarred me... LOL But Gotz and Thomas have way more experience with this stuff.
#544
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ya true 1/4 scale...make the math that much easier! but still a ton of (fun) work ... ya gotz said metal spacers in back and rubber up front...
so you are flying the rebuild now you said, yes? any video? are you building another? I might do another Carf 51 down the road but with a KOLM also
so you are flying the rebuild now you said, yes? any video? are you building another? I might do another Carf 51 down the road but with a KOLM also
#545
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#546
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Got three flights in today. Awesome! This plane was broken in two on the maiden a year ago. I grafted a tail and put new wings on it. Here is a video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGfgH_L0gMM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGfgH_L0gMM
#547
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super! what a great way to end the year!! she looks and flys great!
any more pictures of your final engine install and baffling etc?
any issues on the flight?
happy new year
Matt
any more pictures of your final engine install and baffling etc?
any issues on the flight?
happy new year
Matt
#548
Got three flights in today. Awesome! This plane was broken in two on the maiden a year ago. I grafted a tail and put new wings on it. Here is a video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGfgH_L0gMM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGfgH_L0gMM
When you think of it, show the true power to weight ratio of the set up by taking her straight up on take off and see if she can accelerate straight up or just pulls nice and steady like a tractor. My son has a possible C-17 pilot slot to McChord AFB and is mulling it over so I'll have to show him the foul weather gear you're sporting. Everyone in Washington dresses like they are ready for the next rain event that's going to occur at any moment! :-)
#550
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Matt, if you scroll through this thread, I put lots of detailed pics of the install. I put telemetry on the two heads. Temps were 120 and 100 pretty much the whole flight. I know it's too rich. It was also 40. Does that mean it will run 30 degrees hotter at 70??? Don't know. I know 270 is the danger zone, so I am way far away. I flew one flight last summer and it never went past 170. Gonna lean 1/8 turn for next time out.