Shaun Evans

Hi,

I'm hoping some of you electronics gurus can help. I have an EME onboard starter that won't kick over. When you hit the switch, the starter motor just clicks and moves about 1/16". The controller I bought with it was the first suspect, but I have two and a swap yielded the same result. I also swapped the starter motor itself and the same thing happened. I started the process-of-elimination approach and tried two separate controllers; two separate motors; and even swapped the extension lead from the controller to the receiver. Then, I plugged it into a different channel. Same deal. I'm using a Spek 10ch DSMX Rx. This setup worked fine with the AR9020 power safe Rx in the P-40.

Any ideas??

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

what part of that setup are you forgetting about?

1. battery that drives it

2. mechanical binding

3. check amount of travel on the ch you are using.


Take uit out of the plane and set it up on a bench and see if you can get it to work.

Shaun Evans

Peter,

Yeah, checked all that. Went through the ATV's from 30% to 150%. On the previous plane where it worked fine, it was set at 100%. I tried the motor off of the starter apparatus so there was nothing to bind. I did this with both motors and both control units. I guess it's possible to have a bum controller, but two? I cut off the EC3 plugs and soldered on Deans, so I wondered if I got the leads too hot and somehow damaged the board, but the wires never got too hot to handle during the process so I doubt that's it. What else could it be???

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Have you contacted the retailer that sold it? Seems like that would be the best first step.

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

I have two of these as well. One controller cooked. Big difference between 2s and 3s also. I believe a regular ESC on soft start will work. That would be an easy trouble shoot also. Take the plug out and hook an ESC up to it.

Greg Wright

My Feedback: (6)

Are you sure you didn't reverse the power leads when you changed the plugs from EC3 to the Deans plug. I would have stuck with how it came from the manufacturer. IMHO..

Shaun Evans

Greg,

Umm.... yeah, I'm sure. Red is positive and black is negative. They also have a little "+" and "-" on the plugs to help out. I use Deans on all my batts and chargers. Don't like EC3 and have never preferred them. Good to know you'd have stuck with the EC3, though. That's a huge help

Shaun Evans

Lifer,

Those guys tend to be closed on major holidays, so it's wasn't the first step. It was the second step, though.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

They have a good reputation. I'm sure they'll fix you up.

Shaun Evans

Mike,

Thanks. I think I have an old Tamiya brushed ESC in my shop somewhere. I'll give that a try. Did you use 2s or 3s? I tried 2s on the first one, but it didn't have the umph to turn the engine over, so I went to 3s on the P-40 and it worked great. I was getting over 100 starts on a 2000mah pack. I appreciate the reply that actually tries to help!

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

3s was much more effective. Always here for you brother...;-)

geebeenut

My Feedback: (3)

There was some talk about the battery voltage on a 3 cell battery being to high try draining the battery a bit then give it a try when I have a fresh charge on my battery it will do the same thing until I drain the battery a bit my eme starter is mounted on a agm 30

willig10

Yellow:
I have the EME-60 with onboard starter as well. Here is what I suggest.

1. First and foremost ensure you have a 3 cell LIPO battery and check it's charge.
2. You said you resoldered the connections. Ensure the connections are not cold soldered.
3. on the motor itself, make sure the "tabs" are not touching/grounded.
4. Also make sure the wires themselves have as straight a run as they can from the motor to the ESC.
5 double check the lead coming from the ESC to the receiver and ensure the lead is installed with correct polarity.


Hope this helps but my gut is telling me your battery is low.

Regards
Glenn

rcguy59

My Feedback: (8)

First, put power (3S) directly to the starter motor. If it works, the controller is suspect. I have had these starters since before the controller was available. My first set-up used an RCEXL Opto-Kill to actuate a 30 amp automotive relay. Later, I went to a 30 amp brushed ESC when I finally found one. Both worked fine. On my 30/35cc starter, I converted it to brushless with a 40 amp esc and it too has been fine. The 50/55/60cc starter can also be converted to brushless pretty inexpensively. It took me a while to find a source for pinion gears, though, but they are out there. Don't use less than 12V (3S) with the stock motor. If you really want to use 2S, swap-out the stock motor for a 540 car motor. They are built for 2S. They will draw more current due to the lower voltage, though, so it may require a larger capacity LiPo. Be careful with that Tamiya ESC, Shaun. Most of those can't handle 3S voltage.

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Thanks for the ideas, guys. I did put power directly to the motor and it spins fine. That's how I zeroed in on the controller. Oddly, Mike at Mile High says that 2s is the recommended voltage for this motor. With a 2s LiFe, the motor spun like the minute hand on a clock so I figured 3s was the ticket. I contacted guys through youtube who were using the unit and they all responded with 3s. I never could find the Tamiya ESC, but I did find an old Schultze one made for 6-12 cell nickel. That seems to work fine so I'm certain it's the controller. If Mile High thinks the controller is bum because I'm using too much voltage, that's weird given how well it worked on the P-40. Either way, I've already cut the cowl for the starter assembly and after you've had on-board start, it's tough to go back to monkeying with hand starting a new gas engine without one. It's kind of like your first flight back in Coach after a Business Class upgrade.

rcguy59

My Feedback: (8)

I know it's a bit late for your P-40, but this starter can be made to fit inside the cowl of the TF GS P-51 by making a new gear plate and relocating the motor. Here are some pics of Karl Hibbs' set-up.

willig10

Yellow:
This is the response I got from Mike when I ordered my engine this past summer. Hope this helps.

Glenn,

It is suggested you use a 3-cell lipo. However many folks do not use the lipos on them. I have a bunch of customers that use 2-cell lipo and 3-cell LiFe or A123 packs.

I recommend a 3-cell LiFe or a 3-cell lipo. The battery just needs to put out 30-40 amps for 2 seconds so most "B" grade packs are very capable of running the starter without issue.

For grease any sticky grease will do just fine. I happen to have some left over wheel bearing grease from packing the bearings on my boat trailer, it seems to work great. You just do not want to use something thin that will spin off the gears and stick to the inside of the cowl rather then the gears.

I hope that helps. If you have any other questions feel free to drop a line.

Enjoy!!
Thank You
Mike Maloney
www.milehighrc.com

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Funny. Mike told ME to use a 2 cell lipo. Funnier yet, it worked! The switch works fine with a 2 cell lipo, but just clicks with a 3 cell. My first one worked FINE with a 3 cell. Go figure....

dmyers0403

My Feedback: (48)

I have a few of these. I run a 3 cell 800 mah lipo and it last thru a weekend of flying easly. Would not use less than a 3cell.
Carefully check rotation of gears by hand to insure main gear is installed correctly. Verify prop turns freely in proper rotation and gear will engage for proper starter rotation "No Power Applied Yet" be safe. Once you have deterimed proper rotation for starter motor then check motor by applying power. Reverse polarity of starter as needed. Polarity can be marked wrong as I have found out on one setup. Very all before applying power " Be Safe"
Recomend a saftey disconnect plug in starter hot wire so starter can never run by accedent.
Just my 2 cents.

rcguy59

My Feedback: (8)

Just use an ESC. Simple and it WORKS.

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Thanks for all the help, guys. Like I said, it turns out that these two controllers will work with 2 cells, but will only 'click' with a 3 cell lipo installed.

What I received from Mile High was this:

Shaun,


The recommended battery is a 2 cell lipo. If discharge that pack down to around 10 volts or use a smaller capacity or c rate it would probably work. But the new controllers work best on 2 cell lipo or a123 pack. I have been pulling them of my ignition packs.


Hope that helps.


Please let me know how she goes.


Enjoy!!




Mike
www.milehighrc.com


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone


It's a little confusing given the advice others have received from them, but it's working on 2 cells now. Both of them. So, off to the field!