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Topflite Giant P-47 Club

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Old 01-17-2015, 10:16 AM
  #51  
TimD.
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Originally Posted by haefeli View Post
Tim, could you please tell me what rpm your engine runs on the ground and also the power it is supposed to produce. If I could I will look up the specs of the bore and stroke and try to make some educated guess's as to what I expect from my engine after the work I am doing to it. with the cost of the props I really don't want to have a lot of wall hangers.
The Zenoah G-62 is an ideal engine for the plane in my opinion. According to specs it produces around 5.5hp at 8500rpm. I have
7-8 of them. I have not flown it since last spring, but if I remember correct it was turning around 6700-6800rpm on the ground. The Biela 4 blade looks the best for scale appearance. The G-62 likes to turn RPM's the closer to 8000 on the ground the better. The best 2 blade is a 22-23x8.

I have a 5 cylinder radial I was thinking about repowering the Razorback with. My corsair has a 7 cylinder radial that I repowered this past summer. I have not had time to fly it yet.
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Old 01-17-2015, 10:22 AM
  #52  
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thanks for the info, supposedly the DLE is a 5.5 hp engine. I plan to bench run it and break it in the do my work so I have a comparison of my power output before and after. I will break it in on a 22 x 8 wood 2 blade prop. thanks again.
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Old 01-17-2015, 12:17 PM
  #53  
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Got mine on Wednesday, only had enough time to remove the Tarheel Hal covering at the front. I will most likely spray paint the tail aluminum. I am doing this after the 514th 406th Group from 1944. I am going to put my 5 cyl ASP in it so I have to make sure it is all fuel proofed unless CH gets the gas conversion done soon! Been at work so she has been sitting in the nice cold garage.
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Old 01-17-2015, 01:18 PM
  #54  
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My friend bought that engine 2 years ago along with the arc version and never did a thing with it. The engine is beautifully made. I believe it is to large a diameter for the cowl. I explained to him to get a fiberglass specialties cowl and cut it in half. Then jig it up and build in a 1/2" wide spacer right up the middle and use a thin layer of Hondo to reshape. Prime it and if painting it I'd use single stage enamel with urethane gloss Gardner. It'll stand up to 30% nitro loads no problem. This is what is used on the black and white checker board cowl listed above. I swear by this go to harbor freight and get the hvlp spray gun for 10 bucks. Completely take apart and clean with thinner. They are assembled with oil. This gun is what I used. The paint is as sprayed. It is not polished. If you want to dull it down use corn starch after the paint is mixed. I am doing the Zombie scheme and the color picture is gloss white and black. From a home computer Google P-47 Walk Around. Its 85 pages of highly detailed pictures with notes and all stencils. Zombie is on page 51 and 52. If you can't find it let me know. I have the link at work. My cell phone won't load it. They want 10 bucks but the work computer opens right up. Its the best I have ever come across to see everything .
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Old 01-17-2015, 01:20 PM
  #55  
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My phone picks its own words. Its bondo and hardner. Not Gardner.
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Old 01-17-2015, 08:20 PM
  #56  
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I have used this engine in the kit version and now that it is broken in flies it very well and of course you just cant beat the sound! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0c2gW6cSD5g
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Old 01-18-2015, 04:17 AM
  #57  
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Sure flies nice. What is the weight and prop size. I have 2 friends with this combo who did nothing with them. I'm sending the video link to them to stir interest. If you had to guess how far are the valve covers sticking out of the cowl.
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Old 01-18-2015, 08:23 AM
  #58  
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Hey Warbird AL, I really enjoyed the video. And like most videos, I'm sure the sound was even better live. I was curious if you had any cooling issues with the radial? I know on my TFGS P-47, there isn't much room to exiting air unless you really cut up the cowl.
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Old 01-18-2015, 01:40 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by rbgetz View Post
Hey Warbird AL, I really enjoyed the video. And like most videos, I'm sure the sound was even better live. I was curious if you had any cooling issues with the radial? I know on my TFGS P-47, there isn't much room to exiting air unless you really cut up the cowl.
So far no cooling issues. The bottom 2 cylinders don't get as hot as the others and would die on me before I went to full time glow. I put a baffle on the lower entrance of the cowl and a hole in the bottom where the exhaust comes out. The cutouts for the valve covers are somewhat larger than I wanted. I am not very precise in measuring stuff so I sort of butchered it, but that may help with cooling too? I do run the engine pretty rich, a nice smoke stream behind it for sure.

I have been using a 20x10 prop with 30% magnum fuel. I only fly for about 5 minutes not including taxi time. I had an engine out early on in the testing phase before full time glo and that plane has a pretty steep glide slope. She weighs about 25 lbs. I just got the ARF and will be transferring everything over to the new airframe.
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Old 01-19-2015, 06:28 AM
  #60  
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your playing it safe with the onboard glow igniter which is the only way to go.The inverted cylinders are prone to pooling oil around the glow plug and flaming out. as far as I am concerned the ASP engine looks as nicely made as the OS version and why pay double. Do you feel the 30% nitro load does any good for you. the higher the nitro the more finicky the carb setting and the heat might not be needed now with the igniters. Are you using OS F plugs.
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Old 01-19-2015, 06:58 AM
  #61  
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Yes I use the OS F plugs 5 of em at $9.00 a pop that's a lot of dough for one engine! I use the 30 % mainly because that is what I had at the time. I tried the lower percentages and it wasn't the same. Several guys use the higher nitro for their 4 strokes and swear by it. I am not sure either way. I just happened to get a deal on several gallons of it at the time. The engine has been fantastic for me and gets a lot of attention when I fire it up. Very easy to start. I prime the carb then usually 1 flip of the prop and she fires right up. I haven't used an electric starter on it since the first break in runs. Now that I have the igniters I may try a larger prop. I tried a 22x10 before and it wasn't up to it.

I used the Yellow Aircraft canopy for this plane as I thought the TF one was not quite right. It is better looking canopy.

Last edited by Warbird AL; 01-19-2015 at 07:06 AM.
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Old 01-19-2015, 12:43 PM
  #62  
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I see your in Utah, I wonder if the elevation has anything to do with needing more nitro. I bet it does, I am at 1100 feet and I can tell from morning to afternoon the performance change and need for a little low end tune change. I run mine a bit fat and have an OS 160 I run with a #5 cold plug and I swear I never touch the needle. it has a Bisson Pitts muffler on it with the outlet tubes sized down 30% for more back pressure and it turns an 18 x 6 prop 8300. I use 15% Cool Power with a touch of added castor.
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Old 01-19-2015, 09:53 PM
  #63  
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That is a really nice plane
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Old 01-21-2015, 09:05 AM
  #64  
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just about any airplane is nice as long as it is supposed to be a model rendition of the real thing. I just don't like generics.
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Old 01-23-2015, 12:45 PM
  #65  
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starting to come along here, you can see marks on the cowl flaps that close a bit low and I will shim from underneath, just finished porting the engine and raising the compression. I want to swing a 4 blade prop 8000+ rpm
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Old 01-23-2015, 01:10 PM
  #66  
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Looking really good, love the aluminum tape finish, can you exain / show how you apply it and get such a smooth and clean finish without scratches or dings, thanks


TB
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Old 01-23-2015, 01:59 PM
  #67  
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I just wrote a book how to apply this stuff and it didn't go thru. go online and look up flite-metal. I will fill you guys in early in the am from work on my computer.
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Old 01-23-2015, 02:14 PM
  #68  
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in a nut shell, glass with 3/4 ounce cloth 2 layers. I do it pane by panel all at ounce. I sand with 220 paper. any more course and getting sand swell out is tough. I use credit cards for applying resin. then I use Dupont medium build polyurethane primer with a roller 2" wide (fine ) I do not spray. then I sand this with a wooden block with 220 then 320. I use big paint sticks from home depot and glue 2 layers thick for easy handling. I use their purple sand paper that comes 220 320 and 600. don't need to go that fine. the flite-metal is .0018" thick and is burnished on using a paper "stump" . I draw my panel lines on and use 3M tape (vinyl) to use as a border. the alum. is super easy to use. just don't crease it. itll never come off by itself...........ever. it can easily be removed if you do it but not flying for sure. I will put up pics tomorrow. go online and look up Flite-Metal and watch the video. it is about 165 bucks to do a 1/5 scale warbird and it is worth the effort.
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Old 01-23-2015, 03:00 PM
  #69  
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Thanks for the info, I'm more interested in how you install it then how you glass the fram. How you cut it, apply it and burnish it, the rest I got. I'm not a fan of Flite metal so not going to there site to watch a video. Thanks.

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Old 01-24-2015, 05:37 AM
  #70  
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cut it with an 11 blade dipped in mineral spirits, layout your panel lines and use 3M striping tape and burnish alum. with paper STUMP pencil from Joanne Fabrics. then trim the alum. the tape has a sharp clean edge to follow. then next pane overlap tape 1/32 inch and do again. start at bottom rear of fuse or wing. grain of panel dependant on piece being covered. can be polished or use scotch pad on it.
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Old 01-24-2015, 05:39 AM
  #71  
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Old 01-24-2015, 05:43 AM
  #72  
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first picture you can see the buff colored 3m tape from auto store that sells auto paint. its 18 buck a roll and will do a plane. it is way better than masking tape and does not leave adhesive ever. I mentioned Dupont polyurethane primer because it fills the weave of cloth and is eggshell hard. it sand great and feathers as good as any . fill in tiny noogies with spot putty, sand only up to 320 grit. stay away from less than 220 or sand scratches become an issue. the primer is buff colored so when you take gray primer over it to see high spots they show right up. just like auto body paint work.
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Old 01-24-2015, 07:07 AM
  #73  
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Thanks, very nice and clean, I'm going to have to try this.

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Old 01-24-2015, 07:28 AM
  #74  
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it is good stuff, I understand some guys using furnace tape. not sure how thick it is because compound curves take some doing. Also I think they use it on fiberglass componants and you can "burnish" material with more pressure to minimize any creases..........which never come out. very important to have wrinkle free product. I don't follow the instructions and I do remove all backing material before I apply. I have put creases in product doing it their way. I also make my pieces slightly oversize about 3/8 inch and before I remove backing I place foil in place and take sharpie and make lines going over new piece and work piece maybe half inch long. these are witness lines to line up my new piece. once it touches anything it is stuck and removing wrinkles the work piece. remember lightly apply so only a straight line is touching and pres it down with you finger back and forth and work your way out from that point then use the paper stump. working out to corners then burnish well up against your 3m tape. you can see it on the r.h. side of my first picture . the one pic. showing tail wheel all the way to the right.
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Old 01-24-2015, 09:20 AM
  #75  
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oh wow. So cool. A rvuniverse club so elite it makes all the other stupid clubs look good. One airplane, one size, one manufacturer. Amazing he didn't limit it to buying just from Towerhobbies.
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