Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Inappropriate comment.

haefeli

To all I will say good flying. Life is too short to have quips from idiots who are wise guys bent on enjoying ruining it for others..I have a lot to share but not like this. Oh and to the idiot. You must have a lot to learn . I know many people who have the best and they would never make wise cracks to those that try to do their best a d I'll bet your not a big enough man to say things like that in person. Bye all I'm done

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Don't let a mindless troll run you off. If you do, his type wins.

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

No thread is required reading!

haefeli

Here now is my payback to his ignorance. His personal response shows a heavy metal bomber and all his pictures are 6 ounce foamies. Too bad all can't share their abilities so we all can be better at what we do best for ourselves. I build for myself and I fly well enough that I don't worry about 35 pound airplanes that don't bounce. Maybe we can go forward from here . in truly thought I could share with like minded members. I am sure we all have note planes than our better half thinks we need. Remember. Golfers have 14 clubs. They all work differently.

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

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tb

redbiscuits

My Feedback: (6)

Here's mine, DLE 55 for power, Love how well it flys.

haefeli

Are you using rear exhaust. Please tell me the weight and prop. I just raised my 55ra compression by using .015 thick base gasket and raised exhaust port .030 and widened it. I want to swing tbm 4 blade 8 grand.

Barnstormer65

My Feedback: (32)

Here is my GS P-47. This is the arf version. It is one of the best flying planes I have ever owned.

redbiscuits

My Feedback: (6)

No, I have the old side exhaust with a wrap around muffler. I'm running a Xoar 22x10 WWII prop, and the plane weighs 29#s.
Tony has tried the four blade prop on a DLE85 and he didn't like the performance as I recall.

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

4-blade props short of the solo don't work worth a dam, if you manage to get the plane off the ground it will be but a 70% performe at best over a 2blade prop. If things go well for me this year I may try the solo on the DLE85 pricy they are but you know what they say, no pain no gain.


TB

haefeli

I have 2 friends that hooked me into this project. One bought the ARF and the other the arc. Both have the asp radial 5 cyl. Neither did not 5 minute's work on them. Me. I got 1000 hours. I am getting anxious for sure. I have new 10 year old cirrus digital servo's. 13 kg torque. Now I'm worried they are junk. Now its another 350 bucks to replace and rework all my rotary drive couplings.

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Do it, the plane is only as good as its equipment......... If you want to fly it more then once!



TB

rbgetz

Barnstormer6t5.. I like that you added some weathering to the ARF. gives it much more character. Regarding some of the props, I used a Beila 24-10 on my P-47 with a DA-60.. the power is great. i tried even a 3-blade and just lost too much performance. The more I fly it, the more I like this plane!

haefeli

I hear you loud and clear. I bought them from global hobby and never used them. I don't know how good they are. They were 40 bucks each back in the day. I will get hitec metal gear 130 inch ounce. I still have the wing to flite metal and have time. I was installing my pipes but a guy called I sold my drag sled to. So I'm headed to anchor bay on lake saint clair to see some of my engines duke it out. The turbo guys are up to 400 horsepower but the big 2 strokes making 325 give them trouble cause they snap to 9600 rpm instantly and are gone. Here on the north we have sleds going over 154 mph in 4.4 seconds in 660 feet of glare ice. I'm getting to old and just contract a build once and a while. I still love tweaking my plane engines though. Have a good day.

haefeli

haefeli

rbgetz

Haefeli.. are you going to put rivets on the aluminium panels? If so, I'd like to hear how your do it. The plane looks great as it is, but was sure if you're going to that detail. I would love to see it fly!!!

rbgetz

Haefeli.. are you going to put rivets on the aluminium panels? If so, I'd like to hear how your do it. The plane looks great as it is, but was sure if you're going to that detail. I would love to see it fly!!!

bigstew60

My Feedback: (35)

Haefeli, where did you get the aluminum tubing for your exhaust. I what to run my exhaust out the same way but can find the right sized exhaust tube.

lancairmustang

Alright guys I need help, a good friend of mine gave me robart electrics for my TF giant 47, but the problem, they are for the hangar 9 p-47, so you can't mount them in the same. Can you guys give me some ideas as to what I should do? I want to make it work.

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

ok, this is what I would do as to not have to alter the finish by cutting wood. Make a mounting plate out of aluminumn that will bolt to the existing gear blocks and that the gear now bolts to. Basically a mounting extention for the new gear. If that presents a problemb by raising your gear to high you can mount the plate under the existing mounting blocks and shim the gear with ply to the desired hight. You could do this all with ply but I think the aluminum plate would be better, you could use G-10 too.


TB

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

That's an excellent suggestion, but the TF plane mounts the mechanism behind the strut, and the H9 system has the mounting plane centered over the strut. It will be difficult to say the least to adapt one to the other. At least the poster won't be out any extra cash as the H9 set was a gift.

haefeli

I haven't even considered rivets at this point, the aluminum tube is 3/4 inch and if you go to "Online Metals" they have it all for reasonable cost. Being a draftsman helps that I overlaid my engine and muffler on the planes and made a 3 view drawing of the exiting pipes and what was required to alter the stock muffler. The tubes exiting the muffler are NOT on the same angle to take up for the engine offset. this requires TIG welding to accomplish. the same for the pipes as they have mounting plates welded to them. I created a box structure inside the formers to mount it all and cut vent holes where ever I could. the white paint is from BOB Violett and is ceramic based heat reflecting paint. Get the heavy silicone tubing from Kelio Exhaust.
As far as the retracts it is my opinion that you make template from onion skin paper and carefully cut away the skin of the wing and build all necessary internals as requried for these struts shown abobe. then you can take thin ply and make a "shelf" maybe 3/16 " wide to lay in new skin and screw it down with #1 sheet metal flat head screws real nice. the skin you are to replace I would lay some 3/4 ounce cloth to give some strength to so when handled it doesn't crunch. My plane has all types of panel like this and I think it's the way to go. have faith in your building and like I said paper templates work great. I actually built in my retracts and all plumbing then skinned my wing and glassed. I applied my template and with a #11 blade inserted in a 20W soldering iron I carefully cut out my openings and it was dead nuts. I have faith in what I do. being an arf with no planes is not an issue. im sure the spar location can be found along with the ribs and building a shelf to lay new skin should be easily accomplished. just make sure to center your screw locations and first drill a .050" hole then run your screw and ca. then open up the hole in the sheeting and I use a tiny diamond grinding stone to make my counter sink. if this isn't for you then get tiny button head screws.. it'll still look good.

haefeli

meant to say glass inside of skin to be added.