radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

Retracts in the wing.

haefeli

what brand of retracts are you using. can you close doors completely. when I used robart air I had to sink the mounts deeper and I did all my figuring on paper. I got luck as the inner and outer doors lay flush. I would attach pictures but my phone I had them on was destroyed last summer.

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

Those are Robart air retracts. The wheel is totally inside the wing but the gear strut will be slightly above the surface. I'm not sure how well the doors will fit.

haefeli

this is my Robart strut, it is flat where the wheel is so it is better fitted to be "inside" of the wing. I built my retracts in with all plumbing along with air lines run and electric for nav. lighting and servo's.i was sure I was able to close everything and did some shaving of the mounting rails to slightly change the angle of the retract to do this. I don't know if the picture shows but I did a slight bevel of the strut at the axle location too. while you are at it you have the chance to do all types of bracing and reinforcing of ribs and strut mounts. I may of gone overboard but I never want to hear a "crack" during a hard landing and come to find out I broke it all loose. Does any one (Tony) have any idea's about molding nav. light covers. I also have a light in the rudder which I built in the wiring before skinning it and I am trying my best to think of all the what if's as I go.

haefeli

come on guys, no thoughts on making lens covers

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

There's an OLD school method for making pieces out of acetate plastic (Sig sells it). Make a male mold about 1/16th inch smaller the the final size. Usually it is shaped and sanded using a soft wood such as pine or hard balsa. Then, open a slot about 1/16th oversize in a piece of 1/8th plywood. Attach the molded piece to a similar sized piece of plywood. Heat the acetate to about 250 degrees in your oven with the plastic resting atop the slotted piece of plywood. Just as the acetate begins to sag thru the slotted opening, push the mold piece into the opening and the flip it over and let it slowly cool. Once cool, you can cut it free and sand/cut to fit. It may take a few trial runs to get what you want.
This is an old method known to us old guys. It works well.

haefeli

thanks for the tip, I think I follow you. I did something similar with my heat gun but I pushed the plug into the plastic. the lens cover is fairly small at 3/4" long by maybe 3/8" tall. I am guessing the plywood "perimeter" frame is for weight to help sink the plastic over the plug. Some people may wonder why bother but this to me is modeling, it tests my fab. skills and abilities, I don't get frustrated.............just more determined and I am so glad I go thru this when I see my planes come down for a fly by.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Like I said, it's real old school. You might check YouTube...you never know what you might find. I'd check under heat molding plastics, as an example.

I rarely scale detail my planes. I'm an old pylon racer that loves the look of a warbird....with propellors. High-speed flyby's and victory rolls are my thing, followed by a feather-soft touchdown. Jets just don't do it for me, but I loved the F-86 when I was a kid.

Hope the tip helps!

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

This is how I did it.

I cut the plug out,



added some more balsa, sanded it then attached it to a post.



I just use a heat gun and weigh the plastic as it forms around the mold.



K&S plastic sheets



TB

golfandfly

My Feedback: (99)

I need a belly pan for this ARF. anyone have one to sell or know where to buy one ? Thanks for any help, Steve

haefeli

Tony the pictures look good. I am basically doing the same thing. Thanks

haefeli

I managed to get maybe 6 pieces per panel applied over the weekend. the leading edge will have the same appearance on the top and I will wrap sections around both sides at once so the leading edge covers both top and bottom panels. this stuff doesn't really need it, this flite-metal has such good adhesive it'll never come off by itself. if it needs to be removed it pulls off cleanly and I have not had an issue with adhesive parting from the aluminum during removal.

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

That's going to be a sweet looking plane, what scheme is it again?
Also it looks like your main gear is buried under the sheeting.

TB

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

That's going to be a sweet looking plane, what scheme is it again?
Also it looks like your main gear is buried under the sheeting.

TB

haefeli

I started it Nov. 2013 and set out to make it Zombie, then I see the scheme in the magazines and said I don't care I am building my own. I saw the guys shootin off their mouths another Zombie build. I spent countless hours replicating the cowl and it is tons of work. I could of sprayed it and been done, I don't want another Olive Drab plane. Yes I did build in the gear, I built it all in and had a template for all the openings. I used a #11 blade in a 20 watt soldering iron with a blade holder and cut cleanly thru the glass with no issue. I have all the wiring for the lights, air and extensions in place and tested. the air system held air for days with only 6 pound loss starting from 100 psi. if I have trouble I can surgically remove any" panel" I need. Just last night I opened Oct. 2014 MAN and had turned to the page how to make a vacuum box.....................I laughed out loud. I will try the heat gun issue first then maybe a box. I will attach with black number 0 sheet metal screws the lenses for wing tip lights. Luminex company made me nice ones for free after I contacted them asking what I should use. They even soldered built in resisters for me.

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

Looks like the gear doors will be a perfect fit.

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

I'm going to try a couple of these.

haefeli

Looks good. How straight can you get the wheels. You can also build a small tray to use tiny screws to hold some sheeting in around the retract area. I will attempt to load up some pictures later of mine. I built mine in and when closed only a small hinge shows thru.

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

haefeli, suffice it to say that your plane is on a whole different level than mine.

haefeli

Looks good. How straight can you get the wheels. You can also build a small tray to use tiny screws to hold some sheeting in around the retract area. I will attempt to load up some pictures later of mine. I built mine in and when closed only a small hinge shows thru.

haefeli

First off, anybody who attempts to build a kit let alone pop for the retracts and build to fly deserves a lot of credit. I decided that since I have a dream I will do my best to see what I am capable of. I took apart a brand spankin new engine and ported it and raised the compression then I started to saw up the exhaust to pass thru the fuse. I took 7 or 8 pics but I just have a hell of a time loading onto the site from my phone. I e mailed them to my computer at work and will load them by 10 eastern time. My doors are 3 piece and the drag link for the upper was a bit trying. Anyway, no matter what enjoy the build and don't rush it. I been at this plane for almost 27 months and I bet I average 10 hours a week building without interruption. Kinda nuts but I love it and think its great to be able to share pics, ideas and just talk building.

droppedgmc

My Feedback: (18)

starting making more progress...

haefeli

my doors

haefeli

the turbo cooler doors to operate in conjunction with the cowl flaps

haefeli

my landing light, lens not attached yet