haefeli

Man I can't stand reading my post after I submit it. These smart phones attempt to second guess what I'm trying to type and it makes me look illiterate. I can read and write .....honest. Anyway with some port work and running the timing at 32 degrees it'll run way better on top end. I just don't care to have big time low end grunt like a 3D plane needs. I also don't understand why they say 42+ degrees timing. That's nuts and I know the ignition box curve is not that steep to retard almost 15 degrees for the top end. Big advance is fine down low and I'd love to see the curve on paper for how its burned. If it does not run well on top I will definitely swap it out to my C and H ignition box. Also my exhaust tubes are larger right out of the muffler and I have aluminum rings of different I.d.'s to put between the muffler and exhaust tube to change back pressure for max. top end. I have a ways to go before weather breaks enough to have tune time.

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

Finished enough for the first flight

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

That is sweet, luck you!

TB

haefeli

looks good, now your making me feel like the worlds slowest builder. Hey Tony, I got my replacement flite-metal from Ed. I appreciate he sent it to me but it was only half of what I expected and the first 2 feet had wrinkles also. unless you plan on sanding before or after it is applied wrinkles are not good. anyway my project is finished on that sense and I just was being a stickler of wanting all quality material and getting what I paid for. online is a video of some guy applying it to the rear of a glass jet fuselage and the piece he is putting on is wrinkled terrible. it looks nice after in the video but its not what I would want on my plane. even if you scotch brite the wrinkled area the lines cant be hidden.

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

There is a big difference between a bare minimum, just for fun plane and your all out scale masterpiece. I would never have the patience for what you have accomplished.

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

Weight and balance done and check! Still showing between 20-21 lbs on the digital scales. No weight needed in the nose. CG is just slightly nose heavy according to the manual, but OK for a first flight. Taking her out to the field in a few minutes. Hope for the best....

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

Two successful flights and only a couple of squawks.

The plane is very stable....due to being very nose heavy. Flying at idle you can pull full up elevator and the plane won't stall....just mushes along in level flight. However, the flight characteristics are outstanding. The takeoff was quick as you would expect from a 21 lb plane with this much power and wing area. The plane maneuvers very nicely...rolls, loops, even knife edge. It needs lots of down elevator to fly level inverted. Landings are easy and smooth. I'm going to move the batteries back and see how that affects things.

The problems are, first, the idle was set too high so that the plane wouldn't stop before running off the runway into the tall grass and going on its nose. Second, I noticed that when I dropped the flaps on the second landing the plane rolled hard to the right. Two of the flap hinges had broken. These are some very old Robart hinge points and I'm sure they have gotten brittle over the years. I have an idea for how to fix it without drilling them out and replacing them.

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Congrats on the sucseful maiden, your plane looks great.

TB

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

radfordc,

I believe that the arf and the kit are basically the same airframe. As such, I think they would have similar balance points. I balance mine at 6 and 5/8ths back of the leading edge measured at the fuse. I fly at the recommended low rates all the time.

Hope this helps!

haefeli

I forgot what engine and prop you had. Did you have tons of power. Do you have inner gear doors opening and how was the landing approach. Have an idea of speed. I'm not sure I'll be able to land at my home club. Only have 400 foot runway. Not an inch more.

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

The engine is an EME 55 and the prop is a PK 20x10. Plenty of power even with the engine running pretty rich. No inner gear doors. You can see the landing here.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vIIDK5QVVH0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Nice flight vid, looked to be a little hot on landing, did you use flaps?

TB

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

Yes, full flaps. Dead calm wind.

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

I think once you get use to it she will be able to come in much slower especially at that weight, mine came in surprisingly slow at 37lb



TB

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

You're probably right. I'm really leery about getting too slow with warbirds. I have a Skyshark P-40 that will tip stall in a heartbeat. I know this Jug won't do that.

haefeli

the broken hinges look like hell, I have these and now im worried. I would start with a very small drill in my dremel turned up much faster than a normal drill ever could. have a strong light shining in and carefully put a pilot hole dead nuts in the center. then slowly work up the size to 3'16". this is what I would do. this wing has lots of wash out and should be forgiving at almost 3 inches thick.

haefeli

I just looked up your engine, you seem a bit under propped at 20 x 10 especially that light it must buzz up real good in the rpm. who is PK? never heard of it.

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

22x10 is the break in prop for. DLE55 and a 23x10'there after so I would think the 20" is a bit small. I can see it for break in on a stand keeping an eye on RPMs. A DLE35 will spin a 20" prop.

TB

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Started finishing my TFGS P-47.





TB

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

radfordc,

I was looking at your broken hinge picture again and it seemed like you used the small Robart hinge points. Was that correct?

Also, add my vote for a 22x10 on a 55cc engine. A 22 or 23x8 is another option, but the 10 is preferable.

haefeli

tony help me out here, is this a kit you are bashing to have the stab removeable or what is this. I have never seen the arf version so I am lost here. what is the white colored filler? I buy the elmers carpenter indoor type by the 32 ounce tub for maybe 8 bucks. it looks just like balsa wood after it dries and sands and applies nice. plus if I feel like it I can add water and thin it down.

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

I repaired the hinges and they worked OK today. I went across town and flew with John (aka Lifer) at his club field. Three flights on the Jug with no issues at all. I adjusted the idle down so that the plane was able to land and roll out in a reasonable distance. I used the bomb drop today, too.

The fix for the hinge was to drill around the broken hinge point in the wind with a piece of brass tube and then sleeve the hinge with aluminum tube epoxied in place.

Some video's when they upload to youtube.

haefeli

Are these the large hinge points? Hard to believe they snapped like that. I hope the epoxy holds well to the inside of the brass tube. Did you wash it in acetone or thinner and did you rake around a small rat tail file to give some tooth to the brass surface I.d. same with paper on outside?

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

A couple of shaky cell phone videos of the takeoff and landing.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/jwd4swctFG4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/LdUzAtkEKLc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

They are the large hinge points...but probably 20 years old? I'm convinced they are just age brittle...sort of like me.

No I didn't use any special technique or cleaners...I just got them into the wing as far as I could and put plenty of epoxy on them.