Topflite Giant P-47 Club
03-15-2015, 07:30 PM
#326
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Location: Metamora, Michigan U.S.A.
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I agree but I am not sure clearcoat would look good on flite metal even if a flattening agent is used. Plus if peeling occurred what a mess. The trick would be to see if laying rivets and flite metal over them how well they would show thru. I can tell you flite metal shows even a trapped hair. So maybey this is an option.
03-16-2015, 11:39 AM
#327
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Location: Metamora, Michigan U.S.A.
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tried loading my video and see it must go thru another server. I just don't know how to do it and probably never will. wasn't that cool anyway. just a short 10 second movie of my landing light coming out of the wing, very short so I can mail to my buddies on my phone.
03-16-2015, 05:13 PM
#328
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haefeli,
I can't tell for sure but if you want to take the shine off of the flight metal a touch without adding a clear coat. Try 0000 wool and lightly brush the surface. Do it in the direction you think is best for that brushed aluminum look. It just takes it down a notch and looks close to the real deal.
Z
I can't tell for sure but if you want to take the shine off of the flight metal a touch without adding a clear coat. Try 0000 wool and lightly brush the surface. Do it in the direction you think is best for that brushed aluminum look. It just takes it down a notch and looks close to the real deal.
Z
03-17-2015, 05:33 AM
#329
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4 ought wool is ok at best for taking a bit of shine off but what it is doing is refining the surface because it is harder than the aluminum. if you wool the finish it is easily buffed to be brighter just with a towel. if you introduce flour to the alum. it'll clean the pores for more shine. I have found the grey scotch brite pads used for auto refinishing work well for adding the brushed look and then the red colored ones for a deeper scratch. What Ed supplies is basic dish cleaning pads works best for completely knocking down the shine and giving it a whitish appearance for the pre-stretched look. then a quick clean up with flour and then just cheap white or black spray bomb paint for the invasion stripes. Any Lusterkote or clear urethane is not the way to go and if the aluminum is not acid etched it will flake with time. this is my experience and take it for what its worth.i have polished aluminum to look like a mirror with mothers or magic wadding and then flour to lift the black and if you want luster from the alum. that is the way to go. I wouldn't use the wool at all. just using the paper stomp makes fitemetal shiny.
03-19-2015, 05:30 AM
#331
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Location: Metamora, Michigan U.S.A.
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are you balancing right side up or upside down, just wondering. was it possible to move the battery(ies) around? Also I dynamic balance by flying upside down at a 45 degree angle upward and let it go to neutral stick...if it climbs it is dynamically tail heavy and if it drops it is nose heavy. this is how I fly my planes and balance them because it has much more than static initial balance just from wing/tail area. Also if it were a sport bi-plane I static balance at 10 degree nose down, when they dead stick you'll appreciate it being nose heavy and it helps in the banking turn area also.
03-19-2015, 07:14 AM
#332
I balance upright in a Vanessa rig. I had already moved the batteries as far aft as possible and confirmed by the climbing inverted method that the plane was still nose heavy. My friend John has his P-47 balanced at 6.5" back at the fuselage and I want to be just a little more nose heavy to provide a nice stable platform. In fact, the plane flew pretty darn good the way it was, so I will see if I like the CG further back or not.
03-20-2015, 12:06 PM
#336
Three more nice flights on the P-47 today. The balance is near perfect.
Unfortunately, I'm not having any good luck with the electric starter. When I first got the engine with the starter installed, the main gear failed on about the 4 or 5th starting attempt. Mile High R/C explained that I had screwed up by not lubricating the gear. They sent me another gear and I bought some Lucas Red N Tacky grease like they recommended. I put as much grease on the gear as possible. Today on the 5th start since reinstalling the gear, it failed again. The problem is that the main gear is basically "pot metal". The gear is cast instead of machined from steel. When the engine balks the gear teeth immediately strip.
Unfortunately, I'm not having any good luck with the electric starter. When I first got the engine with the starter installed, the main gear failed on about the 4 or 5th starting attempt. Mile High R/C explained that I had screwed up by not lubricating the gear. They sent me another gear and I bought some Lucas Red N Tacky grease like they recommended. I put as much grease on the gear as possible. Today on the 5th start since reinstalling the gear, it failed again. The problem is that the main gear is basically "pot metal". The gear is cast instead of machined from steel. When the engine balks the gear teeth immediately strip.
03-20-2015, 12:13 PM
#337
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What do you mean balk? Also straight cut gears need back lash and it depends o lots of things. But 3 to 4 thousandths ought to be plenty. These should be able to go forever even with hi tack chain lube. Maybe do yourself a favor and can the Chinese crap and flip start. What if this crap explodes at 7 grand. It'll blow thru the cowl and send you to the er in a breath.
03-20-2015, 12:42 PM
#338
By "balk" I meant the engine was putting some additional strain on the gears. Today, I had the choke on and when I hit the starter switch it just stripped the gears. The gears have plenty of back lash...maybe too much. There isn't any way to adjust the back lash. I pulled the gear and will hand start from now on.
If I could find the correct size steel gear I could machine it to fit the starter hub. The gear appears to be metric....72 teeth and 70 mm diametrical pitch. SDS has a 72 tooth gear but it is 72 mm DP. The steel gear is about $50, so a lot to risk on what maybe won't work.
If I could find the correct size steel gear I could machine it to fit the starter hub. The gear appears to be metric....72 teeth and 70 mm diametrical pitch. SDS has a 72 tooth gear but it is 72 mm DP. The steel gear is about $50, so a lot to risk on what maybe won't work.
03-20-2015, 02:21 PM
#341
Just a suggestion for those who like to over-power their planes: Use aluminum instead of wood dowels to attach the front of the wing to the former. Use JB Weld to adhere them. They will not fail. There have been a few reports of front wing attachment and a loss of the plane as a result. F.W.I.W.
03-21-2015, 02:03 AM
#343
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Come on really? Now what do I do. Wing I'd done and if I remove dowels the wood surrounding it is impregnated with glue. OK, I'll just add more and keep existing. Do you know how many times even in the last week I have wondered about this. I am getting ready for work and will stop on the way home for material.
03-21-2015, 02:21 AM
#345
Or, get a brass tube that will just slip over the existing dowel and file serrated teeth on the end. Chuck it in your drill and remove the wood dowels. Get, or make, the right sized aluminum rod and glue it in. I also like to harden the wood in the hole with thin CA first.
03-21-2015, 05:32 AM
#347
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whats with you guys, I know I am ahead of you guys time wise and your posting 5 in the morning where you are. what did you do build all night? either that or your like me tossing and turning in bed thinking about what I want to get done that day to the project.