Top RC Models MkIV full Composite Spitfire-a game changer
07-21-2015, 02:44 PM
#126
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Navarre, FL
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Well then, here we go, my first build on RCU. I ordered the Hanger 9 Spitfire wheels as an interim option. The plans call for 100mm wheels...the Hanger 9s are 4.25" which works out to about 110mm. I miced the wheel wells at just over 120mm, so that should work. As stated, I had to open up the channel on the retract mounting point (photo) to accommodate the Century Jets retracts...not sure if this is required for the Top RC gear or not. I didn't have to take off too much material...most of it came off the wood at the forward mounting point to allow the metal flange on the retracts to clear the fiberglass skin.
You ou can see the gear dummied up with the control unit, reciever, and battery. The gear use a dedicated 7.4v LiPo for power. I ops checked them and everything works as advertised (so far), complete with a nice scale slow down... When the retracts arrived, the axel was 90deg off from where it should be for a spit. I called Century, and they explained that there are two set screws (allen head) on each trunion...you have to extend the gear to access them, then it's a simple matter to loosen the set screws, rotate the struts, and tighten them. I'll tweak them again when the wheels come to make sure everything lines up right, but pretty easy otherwise.
Previously, I stated that the manual is lacking...it's not actually that bad. There are some gaps, and chenglish, but it's OK. One flaw I found is with control horn mounting. It indicates that you place small type horns on the aelirons and flaps, but only includes a pair of them. My assumption is that the small ones go on the flaps (see picture). I haven't glued anything in, so please let me know if I'm smoking something. BTW, I'm using Loctite 9462 Hysol for all gluing except the canopy.
You ou can see the gear dummied up with the control unit, reciever, and battery. The gear use a dedicated 7.4v LiPo for power. I ops checked them and everything works as advertised (so far), complete with a nice scale slow down... When the retracts arrived, the axel was 90deg off from where it should be for a spit. I called Century, and they explained that there are two set screws (allen head) on each trunion...you have to extend the gear to access them, then it's a simple matter to loosen the set screws, rotate the struts, and tighten them. I'll tweak them again when the wheels come to make sure everything lines up right, but pretty easy otherwise.
Previously, I stated that the manual is lacking...it's not actually that bad. There are some gaps, and chenglish, but it's OK. One flaw I found is with control horn mounting. It indicates that you place small type horns on the aelirons and flaps, but only includes a pair of them. My assumption is that the small ones go on the flaps (see picture). I haven't glued anything in, so please let me know if I'm smoking something. BTW, I'm using Loctite 9462 Hysol for all gluing except the canopy.
07-24-2015, 04:48 PM
#127
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Navarre, FL
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Working slow but sure. As you can see below, I opted to use the shorter control horns for the flaps...seemed to be the logical choice. One nice technique include in the manual is to mask off the area around the horns before gluing them in. It worked very well and I intend to use it in the future.
Next up is attachment of the stabs... This is an area where the instructions are severely lacking. For example, you're supposed to drill a pilot hole through the stab into each of the carbon fibre rods and then install hardware. I like the mounting method, but where exactly does the hardware go? There are no measurements to say how far outboard to place the screws. It also only has you install hardware in the forward rod on each stab...this is the only thing that holds your stab on the plane... Personally, I'm not comfortable with just one screw per stab and intend to use at least two (one forward, one aft).
More to follow!
Next up is attachment of the stabs... This is an area where the instructions are severely lacking. For example, you're supposed to drill a pilot hole through the stab into each of the carbon fibre rods and then install hardware. I like the mounting method, but where exactly does the hardware go? There are no measurements to say how far outboard to place the screws. It also only has you install hardware in the forward rod on each stab...this is the only thing that holds your stab on the plane... Personally, I'm not comfortable with just one screw per stab and intend to use at least two (one forward, one aft).
More to follow!
Last edited by zrooster; 07-24-2015 at 06:42 PM. Reason: Clraification
07-26-2015, 08:13 PM
#129
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Working on an electric setup for the Spitfire.
We're installing the Himax 210Pro outrunner using the Castle Edge HV80 Lite ESC and a set of Power Unlimited 5S 5100 Mil 35C Lipo's
http://www.gator-rc.com/himax-hc6330pro
http://www.gator-rc.com/pu-35c-5s-5100-jst-xh
http://www.gator-rc.com/castle-edge-80hv-lite-new
Here's some pics of the build so far.
Mike Mueller
Thanks for looking Mike Mueller
Gator-RC.com
We're installing the Himax 210Pro outrunner using the Castle Edge HV80 Lite ESC and a set of Power Unlimited 5S 5100 Mil 35C Lipo's
http://www.gator-rc.com/himax-hc6330pro
http://www.gator-rc.com/pu-35c-5s-5100-jst-xh
http://www.gator-rc.com/castle-edge-80hv-lite-new
Here's some pics of the build so far.
Mike Mueller
Thanks for looking Mike Mueller
Gator-RC.com
Last edited by mups53; 07-26-2015 at 08:33 PM.
08-01-2015, 04:44 AM
#131
My Feedback: (41)
Here we go with more build pictures.
We had to devise a sliding tray system to get the 10S lipo pack more forward into the fuse. This part will be an accessory available on our site soon.
If all goes right the maiden flight will take place this weekend.
Enjoy!!!!
We had to devise a sliding tray system to get the 10S lipo pack more forward into the fuse. This part will be an accessory available on our site soon.
If all goes right the maiden flight will take place this weekend.
Enjoy!!!!
08-03-2015, 10:23 PM
#132
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Mike this is a great looking plane and I can't wait to see the electric version in action. I'll need to track down a vendor here in Australia.
A few things that I'd really like to see as some have mentioned in the thread already. A spinner that can accommodated a 4 blade prop for the scale wh0res out there like me
and nice 4 blade biela would do the trick!
The zero and the P-51D look stunning, it would be nice if all these birds came in a clean skin version so you could easily paint your own plane and make graphics for it.
Final request - please give us a super scale P-38 lighting.......pretty please with a cherry on top!
I think that pretty much covers it.
All the best with these new plane(s) in to the US market, I hope you get the supply chain running smoothly and the sales should take care of themselves.
Regards Ben
A few things that I'd really like to see as some have mentioned in the thread already. A spinner that can accommodated a 4 blade prop for the scale wh0res out there like me
and nice 4 blade biela would do the trick! The zero and the P-51D look stunning, it would be nice if all these birds came in a clean skin version so you could easily paint your own plane and make graphics for it.
Final request - please give us a super scale P-38 lighting.......pretty please with a cherry on top!
I think that pretty much covers it.
All the best with these new plane(s) in to the US market, I hope you get the supply chain running smoothly and the sales should take care of themselves.
Regards Ben
08-05-2015, 06:25 PM
#133
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Navarre, FL
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Mike, how'd you locate the mounting screw holes for the stab? I came up with a way, but would be interested to see if there are better ways/validate mine before I put any holes in the skin.
All, I'll post what I came up with shortly...sorry for the gaps, my job keeps me on the road ~17 days a month...
On a side note, got my H9 wheels in and am mounting the retracts tonight. You'll see I have my flap and Aeliron servos mounted... It's very straight forward. The L brackets are tapped on one side to mount the servos to the brackets. Use included self tapping screws to mount the L brackets to the servo trays. Only hiccup: one of the flap push rods wasn't threaded on one side...will see if I have something small enough to cut threads on the supplied rod, otherwise will use my own threaded rod. Used Hitec HS645 metal gear servos all the way around except for the throttle and choke.
Edit to add: Ran a two blade 19/10 across my test stand...it made the same power as the 19/8 (measured in pounds on my unscientific fish scale) at 16lb. I also ran a 4 blade 17/6 which made ~14 pounds (~1lb more than the 16/8 4 blade I tested). As a note, the MKIX had a 4 blade, not a 3 blade prop...still working to source a 4 blade spinner.
Pics:
All, I'll post what I came up with shortly...sorry for the gaps, my job keeps me on the road ~17 days a month...
On a side note, got my H9 wheels in and am mounting the retracts tonight. You'll see I have my flap and Aeliron servos mounted... It's very straight forward. The L brackets are tapped on one side to mount the servos to the brackets. Use included self tapping screws to mount the L brackets to the servo trays. Only hiccup: one of the flap push rods wasn't threaded on one side...will see if I have something small enough to cut threads on the supplied rod, otherwise will use my own threaded rod. Used Hitec HS645 metal gear servos all the way around except for the throttle and choke.
Edit to add: Ran a two blade 19/10 across my test stand...it made the same power as the 19/8 (measured in pounds on my unscientific fish scale) at 16lb. I also ran a 4 blade 17/6 which made ~14 pounds (~1lb more than the 16/8 4 blade I tested). As a note, the MKIX had a 4 blade, not a 3 blade prop...still working to source a 4 blade spinner.
Pics:
Last edited by zrooster; 08-05-2015 at 06:30 PM.
08-13-2015, 10:22 AM
#138
My Feedback: (41)
I've done a lot of testing now on my Electric Spitfire. So far I really think it flys well.
The power is more than sufficient
I use the following equipment:
Motor: Himax 210Pro. It's a 20 pole outrunner light and efficient it's mounts very easily
ESC: Castle Creations Edge HV80. Perfect matchup for the Himax
Lipo's. Power Unlimited 6000 Mil 25C 5S in series to form a 10S pack.
Mounting the lipo's in the front of the fuse is a challenge unless you follow our method.
http://www.gator-rc.com/custom-slide...model-spitfire
We now sell as an accessory the Gator-RC Spitfire specific sliding lipo tray
I'm running the CG at 125mm behind the leading edge at the root.
Prop is a APC 2BB 19x12
8 Minute flight times are a breeze.
I realize that many say a Warbird has to be Gas. I did this to open the market to the many fliers who want an easy no muss no fuss alternative, Also many fliers fly at Electric only fields.
This is an option to have your cake and eat it to.
Gator-RC and F3AUnlimited.com is known for having all the Electric equipment for pattern planes. Power Unlimited Lipo's is our house brand.
We can help with those who feel uncomfortable with the challenge of learning larger E setups.
Thanks, Mike Mueller
The power is more than sufficient
I use the following equipment:
Motor: Himax 210Pro. It's a 20 pole outrunner light and efficient it's mounts very easily
ESC: Castle Creations Edge HV80. Perfect matchup for the Himax
Lipo's. Power Unlimited 6000 Mil 25C 5S in series to form a 10S pack.
Mounting the lipo's in the front of the fuse is a challenge unless you follow our method.
http://www.gator-rc.com/custom-slide...model-spitfire
We now sell as an accessory the Gator-RC Spitfire specific sliding lipo tray
I'm running the CG at 125mm behind the leading edge at the root.
Prop is a APC 2BB 19x12
8 Minute flight times are a breeze.
I realize that many say a Warbird has to be Gas. I did this to open the market to the many fliers who want an easy no muss no fuss alternative, Also many fliers fly at Electric only fields.
This is an option to have your cake and eat it to.
Gator-RC and F3AUnlimited.com is known for having all the Electric equipment for pattern planes. Power Unlimited Lipo's is our house brand.
We can help with those who feel uncomfortable with the challenge of learning larger E setups.
Thanks, Mike Mueller
08-20-2015, 06:51 AM
#141
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Navarre, FL
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Gents, sorry for the delay. Made a lot of progress over the last few days (been on the road a lot lately)...
Gear: This has been the most time consuming part of the process so far. This is, in large part, my fault. When I marked the screw holes to mount the gear, I did so with the gear in the up position with the wheels parallel to the wing skin. The gear retracted and extended smoothly with no issues. However when
I put the wings on the fuse, it became apparent that there was WAY too much toe out on the wheels. This was confirmed when I put the plane on the wheels...it didn't roll very well at all. OK, no problem, just rotate the gear so that the wheels are oriented straight along the axis of the aircraft, right? Wrong. Now the wheels hit the forward edges of the wheel wells. Part of the problem was my use of the hanger 9 wheels, which at 4.25" fit, but only just. No amount of adjustment or shimming would fix the problem...the wheels were either toed out too much or they hit the wheel wells. Bottom line, I had the choice of redrilling the holes on the wings or slot the holes on the landing gear mounting flanges. I opted for the latter, adding a flat and lock washer to help with security.
The next step was mounting the gear doors. I used 1/2" robart collars, but rather than using the recommended wire and brass tubing, I hydrasoled some light ply to the rings and attached the doors to the ply using the supplied screws. I intentionally cut the ply long, then once I had the doors centered, held them in place with masking tape, marked my mounts, and sanded them down to size. I had to play with the adjustment to get everything lined up and flush, but it wasn't too bad. Initially, the right gear was about 2mm from flush. After checking everything else, I found that the left main wheel sat about 2mm further in the well than the right. It turned out there was a small gap between the inboard part of the flange on the right main gear and the mounting point on the wing. I shimmed it with a couple washers and it was good to go.
The rest of the wing went together as advertised, except that one end of one of the flap push rods wasn't threaded. I replaced both flap push rods with some threaded 4-40 rod...I still used the supplied rod ends, but had to open the hole slightly. I did so by twisting a drill bit into the end of the rod end by hand.
Next I'll run through how I marked and drilled the horizontal stab for mounting.
Gerad
Gear: This has been the most time consuming part of the process so far. This is, in large part, my fault. When I marked the screw holes to mount the gear, I did so with the gear in the up position with the wheels parallel to the wing skin. The gear retracted and extended smoothly with no issues. However when
I put the wings on the fuse, it became apparent that there was WAY too much toe out on the wheels. This was confirmed when I put the plane on the wheels...it didn't roll very well at all. OK, no problem, just rotate the gear so that the wheels are oriented straight along the axis of the aircraft, right? Wrong. Now the wheels hit the forward edges of the wheel wells. Part of the problem was my use of the hanger 9 wheels, which at 4.25" fit, but only just. No amount of adjustment or shimming would fix the problem...the wheels were either toed out too much or they hit the wheel wells. Bottom line, I had the choice of redrilling the holes on the wings or slot the holes on the landing gear mounting flanges. I opted for the latter, adding a flat and lock washer to help with security.
The next step was mounting the gear doors. I used 1/2" robart collars, but rather than using the recommended wire and brass tubing, I hydrasoled some light ply to the rings and attached the doors to the ply using the supplied screws. I intentionally cut the ply long, then once I had the doors centered, held them in place with masking tape, marked my mounts, and sanded them down to size. I had to play with the adjustment to get everything lined up and flush, but it wasn't too bad. Initially, the right gear was about 2mm from flush. After checking everything else, I found that the left main wheel sat about 2mm further in the well than the right. It turned out there was a small gap between the inboard part of the flange on the right main gear and the mounting point on the wing. I shimmed it with a couple washers and it was good to go.
The rest of the wing went together as advertised, except that one end of one of the flap push rods wasn't threaded. I replaced both flap push rods with some threaded 4-40 rod...I still used the supplied rod ends, but had to open the hole slightly. I did so by twisting a drill bit into the end of the rod end by hand.
Next I'll run through how I marked and drilled the horizontal stab for mounting.
Gerad
08-20-2015, 06:59 AM
#142
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Sorry, one correction on one of my earlier posts. The 4 blade prop I plan on using is a Biela 17/8 (I inadvertently put 17/6 on my previous post). I'll maiden the bird on the 2 blad xoar, and then fly her on the 4 blade thereafter. I'll post my stab write up shortly.
08-20-2015, 10:41 AM
#143
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Navarre, FL
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Mike this is a great looking plane and I can't wait to see the electric version in action. I'll need to track down a vendor here in Australia.
A few things that I'd really like to see as some have mentioned in the thread already. A spinner that can accommodated a 4 blade prop for the scale wh0res out there like me and nice 4 blade biela would do the trick!
The zero and the P-51D look stunning, it would be nice if all these birds came in a clean skin version so you could easily paint your own plane and make graphics for it.
Final request - please give us a super scale P-38 lighting.......pretty please with a cherry on top!
I think that pretty much covers it.
All the best with these new plane(s) in to the US market, I hope you get the supply chain running smoothly and the sales should take care of themselves.
Regards Ben
A few things that I'd really like to see as some have mentioned in the thread already. A spinner that can accommodated a 4 blade prop for the scale wh0res out there like me
and nice 4 blade biela would do the trick! The zero and the P-51D look stunning, it would be nice if all these birds came in a clean skin version so you could easily paint your own plane and make graphics for it.
Final request - please give us a super scale P-38 lighting.......pretty please with a cherry on top!
I think that pretty much covers it.
All the best with these new plane(s) in to the US market, I hope you get the supply chain running smoothly and the sales should take care of themselves.
Regards Ben
Last edited by zrooster; 08-21-2015 at 01:03 PM.
08-24-2015, 05:28 PM
#147
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They are the Top RC Spitfire retracts and I also got the tail gear. I haven't seen them listed on the sight yet, so you might have to call CJM and order over the phone. It is possible the main gear are adapted from something they already stock, but the tail gear is definitely specific to the Top RC Spit. Everything lines up and matches up right (I just installed it), the pull-pull set-up is exactly right...all I had to do was open the hole at the top that the main shaft goes through. The CJM tail gear is definitely sturdier/higher quality than the one that comes with the ARF (hence why I had to open up the hole a bit). The only thing I haven't figured out is how to mount the fiberglass close out panel that goes around it. I haven't seen the Top RC main gear in person, so I can't really compare, but the CJM version is pretty good quality. Sorry for the long answer to a short question!
08-25-2015, 12:41 AM
#148
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They are the Top RC Spitfire retracts and I also got the tail gear. I haven't seen them listed on the sight yet, so you might have to call CJM and order over the phone. It is possible the main gear are adapted from something they already stock, but the tail gear is definitely specific to the Top RC Spit. Everything lines up and matches up right (I just installed it), the pull-pull set-up is exactly right...all I had to do was open the hole at the top that the main shaft goes through. The CJM tail gear is definitely sturdier/higher quality than the one that comes with the ARF (hence why I had to open up the hole a bit). The only thing I haven't figured out is how to mount the fiberglass close out panel that goes around it. I haven't seen the Top RC main gear in person, so I can't really compare, but the CJM version is pretty good quality. Sorry for the long answer to a short question!
Thanks,
08-26-2015, 06:24 PM
#150
My Feedback: (41)
Videos of our new planes
P-51D
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EgT5-Vlk-OQ
ZeroFighter
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nT7HTI8m68U
Mike
P-51D
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EgT5-Vlk-OQ
ZeroFighter
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nT7HTI8m68U
Mike