jpflyer

My Feedback: (13)

I got a reply from the manufacturer. Landing gear doors $40.00 shipped. Not too bad since $25 was shipping.

zrooster

I might pick some up at that price!

mups53

My Feedback: (41)

I stock all the parts at Gator-RC.com
Mike
You can email me at [email protected]

paphman

My Feedback: (3)

Hi All,
I need some help on the installation of the landing gear retracts/struts and wheel cover. I bought a set of Robart electric retracts and struts set for this plane.
Due to the geometry of the landing gear, the wheel and wheel cover would not face the front if I install the strut with the wheel & cover parallel to the wheel well.
If I install the strut with the wheel & cover face the front, the wheel is not parallel to the wheel well when it is retracted. This is ok because the wheel is inside the wheel well. But the wheel cover is not flushed with the bottom of the wing. The leading edge of the cover would tilt up, the trailing edge of the wheel cover would hit the well before the landing gear is fully retract.
Not sure what to do. Some advice with pictures if possible is very appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

zrooster

I used different retracts, but the geometry may be the same. What did you use to attach your doors to your struts?

paphman

My Feedback: (3)

I bought the plane from Tower Hobbies. The instruction manual shows a couple of brackets holding the struts and screw the door to the brackets.
But I cannot find them in the accessories included either with the plane or the retracts combo. I just email Tower to find out.
It seems to me it would not change the way it is. I assume the brackets are fixed in the strut.

jpflyer

My Feedback: (13)

Shipping was $28.00 (air mail) and the doors include the wooden mounting parts. So it appears that parts are available.

zrooster

It's relevant. My retracts didn't come with brackets. I bought robart mounts, and manufactured adapters out of light ply. My doors are close to flush...

paphman

My Feedback: (3)

​​​​​​I need to buy those Robart gear door mounting brackets. Are your wheels parallel to the well when they are retracted inside the well or tilted at an angle?

zrooster

Wheels are tilted in the wells/tilted in relationship to the gear doors, but straight along the longitudinal axis of the plane when the gear is down.

zrooster

Here's a shot of the plane

paphman

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks.

Dsa44

Here is what I did with that foam ring. I cut it in half, secured first half to the wood while centering the pushrod, then glued the top half on. At least it keeps it from rubbing on the edges of the hole.

Moving slowly ahead, ready to install the pull-pull tail wheel and rudder, and there are only 6 brass crimp tubes! Need 8 unless I am overlooking something.... It's the littlest things that slow you down. Now to try to find a couple more......

jpflyer

My Feedback: (13)

I get mine from places that sell fishing tackle. The swages come in many sizes.

zrooster

Yeah, 8...4 for the rudder, 4 for the tailwheel... I broke a couple, so I cut the insulation off a couple wire butt splicers and cut the metal part in half (radially)...worked perfectly.

Dsa44

Thanks fellas! Tried some butt splices I had laying around, but way too big. Found these on the BigA, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Same ID roughly as the stock so should fill the bill and I can move forward. No rush though, being the dead of winter here...
Cheers!

zrooster

That works! Don't recall the gauge of my butt splicers, but obviously, needs to be smaller gauge!

paphman

My Feedback: (3)

Start putting together this plane slowly for electric set up. I was planning to use 12s 5,000mAh battery since nose weight is needed. But the motor box is too small for 2x6s battery side by side.
It seems I have to go 10s and I have an AXI5330/18 motor. Not sure it has enough power to fly this plane with authority.
Can anyone share your power system, size of prop, added nose weight and all up flying weight of the plane?

Thanks.

Dsa44

Ok you may have already figured this out, but just in case, you need to router out the edge along the bulkhead all the way down to the sliding tray to make room for larger batteries. Just use a sanding drum on a dremel. My 2 5000mah 5s fit just fine. I can pop in my 6s and see if they will fit but hadn't planned on using 12s power.
I will be (re-) using a power system from a similar Seagull Spitty which I lost. Tacon 160 on 10s with 18x10 prop. Goobs of power on the previous setup, which was even a bit heavier than this will be.
Cheers.

Dsa44

Also, I guess it will depend on your particular 6s batteries and their size. My 5200 6s fit quite nice as do my 5000 5s, but my 6000 6s did not.....

paphman

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks for the advice.
I have 6s GensAce 60c 5,000mah batteries, I'll check again if I can put them parallel after I dremel out the bulkhead.
If not, I just go with the 10s set up.

Dsa44

So when fitting the retract so that there is good clearance of the wheel, I noticed that there is just a little bit of wood between the one hole and the edge. Does anyone think this is a problem? And if so, what could be done to reinforce that small area?
Thx, DSA

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Glue additional material on the mounting plate and sand to shape or re-drill the hole in the retract plate.

paphman

My Feedback: (3)

I come to the point installing the exhausts in the cowling. After I put the exhaust pipes through the holes in the cowling at both sides, the cowling cannot be installed properly over the motor mount. I think the exhausts were hitting the motor mount. Or I should remove the fibreglass along the panel lines just cover all the exhaust holes and glue the whole exhaust plate on the cowling?

Thanks.

Dsa44

Yes, I had the same issue. The exhaust does not install well just through the holes. Much better to cut the fiberglass along the lines. It looks more scale as well....but try to do a better job than mine!