CY/ET Yak 3U/Yak 11 96"
02-09-2015, 03:10 PM
#28
Thread Starter
Thanks for the picture I hope it will hold up to my 33 lbs Yak some day. :-)
How are you keeping the tailwheel centered when retracting it ?
The control cables go slack as it retracts forward.
How are you keeping the tailwheel centered when retracting it ?
The control cables go slack as it retracts forward.
02-16-2015, 01:24 PM
#30
Thread Starter
Got the throttle servo installed, and the pneumatic system for the gear setup.
Its a little of a pain to install it all in front og the CG in the nose as access is not great......but managable.
Decided to use velcro to fasten my retract servo and control valve to the exhaust tunnel. No chance of it moving
2 air tanks in parallel, sit under the fuel tank.
A crude way to control the retract speed is using wheel collors that squeeze the up/down lines flat to reduce the flow to my liking.
If not used, the full speed and pressure would certinly destroy the wings
Im satisfied with it now, and it will operate a little smoother once "broken in" , and with the engine/prop vibration.
Found a minor leak in one of the included Y fittings, and just put some CA glue on it, and all was good.....but it was minor, and would have taken hours to leak out all the pressure.
But I get solid up/down lock, so thats great.
http://youtu.be/s4DcqFnsMuw
Its a little of a pain to install it all in front og the CG in the nose as access is not great......but managable.
Decided to use velcro to fasten my retract servo and control valve to the exhaust tunnel. No chance of it moving
2 air tanks in parallel, sit under the fuel tank.
A crude way to control the retract speed is using wheel collors that squeeze the up/down lines flat to reduce the flow to my liking.
If not used, the full speed and pressure would certinly destroy the wings
Im satisfied with it now, and it will operate a little smoother once "broken in" , and with the engine/prop vibration.
Found a minor leak in one of the included Y fittings, and just put some CA glue on it, and all was good.....but it was minor, and would have taken hours to leak out all the pressure.
But I get solid up/down lock, so thats great.
http://youtu.be/s4DcqFnsMuw
Last edited by SJN; 02-16-2015 at 01:27 PM.
04-26-2015, 04:47 AM
#31
Thread Starter
Almost done...... 
just need a few minor things to do, then I can get to running the engine in........but its the small details that take the longenst time to do
Going to maiden the plane before drawing up panel lines and doing the detailing of it. Will se what kind of cockpit I can build once I see how the CG is after the maiden flight.
15,5 kg wet....the saito 84 is gong to work hard :-)
just need a few minor things to do, then I can get to running the engine in........but its the small details that take the longenst time to do
Going to maiden the plane before drawing up panel lines and doing the detailing of it. Will se what kind of cockpit I can build once I see how the CG is after the maiden flight.
15,5 kg wet....the saito 84 is gong to work hard :-)
06-08-2015, 06:02 AM
#32
Thread Starter
Maiden flight closing in.....was out running in my radial engine......needs some more run time before the first flight.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uuy-kflmh6U&feature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uuy-kflmh6U&feature=youtu.be
06-14-2015, 08:53 AM
#34
Thread Starter
Thanks. :-)
Had the maiden flight today after running 5 tanks of gas through the engine, and it flew and sounded great :-)
Plenty of power from the FG84, and the 22/10 prop. Im going try a 22/12 next time, as the engine seems to be quite lightly loaded.
It was a little tail heavy, but nothing alarming, so it was a little more sensitive on the elevator than I like, but totaly managable. Stalls where extremly soft, but the plane snaps quite violently if you loop the plane in tight circles....3d style :-)
I landed with full flap, and the plane balloned a bit on me because of the little too AFT CG, and it seems that one of the gear doors snagged the grass/ground, and the lower sizor link rotated my main wheel......causing it to be rtorn out of the wing :-(
Maybe one of the guys there will send me some video later.
Just one bit of advice.......strengthen the landing gear area, and make sure the struts are absolutly tight so they can not rotate........but this is common knowlage.......just did not get it right this time myself :-)
Im going to shim the rear of the retract plate to get the wheel a bit further forward too, as it does feel very light on the tail wheel, and was very close to nosing over.
Had the maiden flight today after running 5 tanks of gas through the engine, and it flew and sounded great :-)
Plenty of power from the FG84, and the 22/10 prop. Im going try a 22/12 next time, as the engine seems to be quite lightly loaded.
It was a little tail heavy, but nothing alarming, so it was a little more sensitive on the elevator than I like, but totaly managable. Stalls where extremly soft, but the plane snaps quite violently if you loop the plane in tight circles....3d style :-)
I landed with full flap, and the plane balloned a bit on me because of the little too AFT CG, and it seems that one of the gear doors snagged the grass/ground, and the lower sizor link rotated my main wheel......causing it to be rtorn out of the wing :-(
Maybe one of the guys there will send me some video later.
Just one bit of advice.......strengthen the landing gear area, and make sure the struts are absolutly tight so they can not rotate........but this is common knowlage.......just did not get it right this time myself :-)
Im going to shim the rear of the retract plate to get the wheel a bit further forward too, as it does feel very light on the tail wheel, and was very close to nosing over.
06-14-2015, 01:11 PM
#35
Thread Starter
A friend got a vid of the maiden flight....... yea yea, not brilliant, the next ones will be fantastic though when I get all the bugs ironed out :-)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xIPQvo9JKRQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xIPQvo9JKRQ
06-14-2015, 06:36 PM
#36
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Join Date: Oct 2009
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Congratulation of your maiden flight. Quite light weight and your FG84 engine work well. Sorry about your landing gear but you may be easy repair it.
07-12-2015, 09:09 AM
#37
Thread Starter
Thanks Skyflash.
Video of the 3rd flight......still a bit pitch sensitive.
Will add a little more lead in the nose, and also give it a little more down thrust.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jhXmktYohnM
Video of the 3rd flight......still a bit pitch sensitive.
Will add a little more lead in the nose, and also give it a little more down thrust.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jhXmktYohnM
07-12-2015, 07:54 PM
#39
Thread Starter
Mine is also too close to the CG.
I put a 6mm block on the rear landing gear beam to angle the landing gear forward.
Seems to work ok as you see in the video.
I put a 6mm block on the rear landing gear beam to angle the landing gear forward.
Seems to work ok as you see in the video.
07-12-2015, 10:21 PM
#40
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10-21-2015, 08:37 AM
#42
Thread Starter
Thanks :-)
Its getting cold over here, so I have just been flying my foam planes instead lately.........so the YAK has been inside resting :-)
I have been moving the CG around, and alo playing with the thrust line of the engine, and can not realy seem to get it right.
It keeps climbing, and have concluded that the stab/wing incidance are not set up correctly. But since the fiberglass fuselage does not allow any adjustment of this, I will have to live with lots of down trim on the elevator as neutral.
Its getting cold over here, so I have just been flying my foam planes instead lately.........so the YAK has been inside resting :-)
I have been moving the CG around, and alo playing with the thrust line of the engine, and can not realy seem to get it right.
It keeps climbing, and have concluded that the stab/wing incidance are not set up correctly. But since the fiberglass fuselage does not allow any adjustment of this, I will have to live with lots of down trim on the elevator as neutral.
10-22-2015, 01:48 AM
#43
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Glad you are well.
I maidened a SEAGULL Gipsy Moth 2 weeks ago and also found it to climb steply after take off. From other forums thread I know many owners have changed engine incidence but I checked the manual C.G. and found it to be at 33% of the mean chord. I do not like flying with such a rearward C.G. and, weather permiting, I will try with a 30% this weekend.
The plane also asked for a lot of right trim, although it is due to right wing panels having a litle more incidence that left ones and I am making my mind to live with a lot of right trim as I do not see easy to modify wings fixation to cure it.
I have the idea that we ourselves shoudn´t produce more accurate models but, at least, with ARF we have the possibility of blaming on the manufacturers!
Best Regards.
I maidened a SEAGULL Gipsy Moth 2 weeks ago and also found it to climb steply after take off. From other forums thread I know many owners have changed engine incidence but I checked the manual C.G. and found it to be at 33% of the mean chord. I do not like flying with such a rearward C.G. and, weather permiting, I will try with a 30% this weekend.
The plane also asked for a lot of right trim, although it is due to right wing panels having a litle more incidence that left ones and I am making my mind to live with a lot of right trim as I do not see easy to modify wings fixation to cure it.
I have the idea that we ourselves shoudn´t produce more accurate models but, at least, with ARF we have the possibility of blaming on the manufacturers!
Best Regards.
11-15-2015, 12:55 PM
#44
My Feedback: (8)
Hello my name is Jimmy and will be receiving the LA-7.....SNJ and Kimhey, you guys both have done some nice work and I have a few questions about both of the models. how have the gear air cylinders held up and are the oleo struts strong enough to hold the weight of the plane when its assembled?
thanks guys
thanks guys
11-16-2015, 12:04 PM
#46
Thread Starter
Hi Jimmy, and thanks.
If you loctite all te screws on the retract units, and leak check them before installing them, they will be ok.
The struts are usable if you remove the C clips and pins that connect the sizzer link parts, and replace them with nuts and bolts to remove all the play.
you also need to tighten and glue the sizzer link collors to the struts, otherwise they might work apart.
But honestly, they are realy crap quality unfortunatly. :-)
If you loctite all te screws on the retract units, and leak check them before installing them, they will be ok.
The struts are usable if you remove the C clips and pins that connect the sizzer link parts, and replace them with nuts and bolts to remove all the play.
you also need to tighten and glue the sizzer link collors to the struts, otherwise they might work apart.
But honestly, they are realy crap quality unfortunatly. :-)
11-18-2015, 11:50 AM
#49
Thread Starter
Overall thoughts are good.
I do have to other CY models planes, athe spitfire, and Bearcat, and this one is the latest off of the production line, and it is the best of the 3 I have.
You get a large ARF realtivly inexpensive, and the quality is ok.
Its not a arf where everything is thought out for you like a hangar 9 arf. you have to do a bit of fiddling and tinkering yourself.
Im very happy with my stock saito as it is.
It is a bit on the small size for my plane,and vertical is not great.
But, I think it hauls around my 19kg heavy plane quite well.
Just make sure you break in the engine well by monitoring the cylinder temps.
The top one will be the hottest, and you have to keep that one cool enough all the time.
I do have to other CY models planes, athe spitfire, and Bearcat, and this one is the latest off of the production line, and it is the best of the 3 I have.
You get a large ARF realtivly inexpensive, and the quality is ok.
Its not a arf where everything is thought out for you like a hangar 9 arf. you have to do a bit of fiddling and tinkering yourself.
Im very happy with my stock saito as it is.
It is a bit on the small size for my plane,and vertical is not great.
But, I think it hauls around my 19kg heavy plane quite well.
Just make sure you break in the engine well by monitoring the cylinder temps.
The top one will be the hottest, and you have to keep that one cool enough all the time.