Georgiadude2012

Thanks for the reply. I did find the holes. Glad to see someone else has the model. It would be helpful if you could pm me some pics of the tail, wing and servo setup in the fuselage. Thanks

Georgiadude2012

Actually I had a choice of which model to buy but after seeing them fly on youtube and several other videos I chose this model.. So it was clearly my choice after considering topflite ,hanger 9 and several others etc... Have you seen it flying somewhere?

catboater

My Feedback: (51)

I have built this airplane and know a few things about it.
First of all, don't get so defensive when other guys suggest this may not be the best choice for your first low wing, it isn't. That being said, it is extremely easy to fly for a warbird. It isn't a Cub though and it will stall. Have an experienced pilot do the first flights and trim it for you. Forget your pride. It isn't worth losing an expensive airplane over.
the hardware is crap as was previously mentioned so do go with Dubro. The landing gear struts are easily bent and the mechanical system sucks so be ready to switch to pneumatic when you can't fix them anymore.
The pull pull elevator system is challenging to install but works great once it's in.
NEVER take off with flaps because it will fly before it's ready and stall. Only land with the flaps on a calm day. The wing produces so much lift you don't need them.
i really loved mine. You will too.

Georgiadude2012

Not being defensive at all, just tired of people not realizing the RC hobby in general is so subjective and opionated. For instance, I was told by several gentleman that this is a great second or third plane and they rather teach students on larger planes rather than your everyday trainers. Then again, I have several guys tell me no plane other than a small low wing trainer for a second plan, they even gave me there recommended size, model, brand, color and needless to say they were all different. Even had a guy tell me get a 28" park flyer before even thinking about getting into this hobby. Had a guy tell me flying rc planes is so hard its going to take me years on a real flight sim before I could even learn to take off. Now that is all fine and dandy if the thread was " Suggestions on second rc airplane". or " Need help learning to fly rc planes".
Just look at your post all that helpful info you gave me and then BAM you said "It Isn't" the best choice for a first low wing plane. Just yesterday a guy at the field, who has been flying over 30 years stated " Who the hell buys a low wing plane to learn to fly another low wing plan?" but that's his opinion and I specifically asked him which low wing plane should I buy to learn to fly my 80" spitfire!!!!

I started this form for help building a plane when I needed to ask questions about the build, not read unnecessary opinions from people who just want to be negative.... If I would have sat back and said nothing this thread would be filed with more negative post than it already have.

Shaun Evans

nevermind...

Granpooba

My Feedback: (5)

Hahahahahaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa .......... it is just so much fun reading the postings on this forum. Must say, thank you for the amusement fellows. LOL

P.S. Love Spitfires ! Probably my favorite aircraft. Have one myself.

Georgiadude2012

Finished the wings and retracts... If anyone see something I may have done wrong please let me know. Thanks

52larry52

My Feedback: (1)

"If anyone see something I may have done wrong please let me know"........WHAT? are you kidding! You got the guys here so gun shy, no one is going to risk a verbal blasting and bite on that request........except ME ! In photo #1 it looks like you don't have the wing halves glued together even, off by 1" or so.....JUST KIDDING, it's a joke, I"m pulling your chain, and I might add it's easy to do! I know the wing halves are just sitting there and likely don't get glued together (wing tube ?). Anyway, now you're back down off the ceiling, I will nitpick what you have there. It basicley looks like it's all there and in the correct places. It should work but (here comes the nitpick part), in photo #2 it appears that the clevis pivot point for both the flaps and the ailerons are just a very small distance, maybe 1/16"-3/32", ahead of the hinge line. Idealy the pivot should be right at the hinge line. Just something I am pointing out for you to aim for in the future when you mount control horns. What you have there will work just fine and requires no change, I said I was nitpicking! Also, you will of course slide the little fuel hose retainers up further on the EZ connectors when you're through setting up and ready to fly (they won't retain anything where they are). That may be a "given" but I am just reminding you to do that. The linkage wire end at the flap servo end can be trimmed a little shorter just to look better. Just small nitpicks for sure. When the servos are moved to full movement, do all the links and hardware clear the servo covers (no binding in the slots)? Again just something to watch for. When you are setting everything up also make sure the retracts don't bind when opening or closing, can't rub or catch on anything. If everything moves in the right direction and the right distance, it looks like this part of the plane will work. Keep plugging along and you might have an airplane there when your done.

3136

Due to your "colourful attitude" I probably shouldn't be helping you any further, but I will, (for others safety).
You have been given advice twice from owners of GS World Models planes that you should throw out the supplied hardware.
Why? As it can come apart in flight. the thread on the rods is very thin and the plastic clevice's are very soft, it doesn't take much effort for the two to strip apart.
The rods are also incredibly brittle (just try bending one), with enough vibration and time they will fail.
For the safety of others around you, you need to address that.
Please, throw out the linkages/clevice's and buy dubro replacements.

Georgiadude2012

Thanks.. Will do. Is there a trick to mounting the back side of the black tri- hedges on the aileron and flaps. It so hard to screw the black back side on the opposite side of the wings. Those little holes takes forever to line up and screw on??? Anybody got a trick to that?

3136

Use a pin driver and a combination square to keep the alignment, still tricky though.

ForcesR

GD; unles my old eyes are being tricked by the photo? The others that replied did not notice that the LH aileron linkage in the photo looks much to long, the servo arm is in the fully forward position and striking the forward face of the slot in the servo door, the TE of the aileron shows that it is even with TE of the wing. In the configuration you have the aileron servo set up in the photo now, the aircraft would be in a RH bank, this is not so because the TE of the aileron is in trim with the TE of the wing.

Roger

Hab

Lol .. typical

Hab

Well put

rgburrill

I think that's the flap servo, not LH aileron. .

Olearsenewbie

My Feedback: (1)

Question dude, did you center your servos before connecting the servo arms...then re-energize your servos (especially aileron servos) after you installed them to assure the arms in the "neutral" position before connecting to the ailerons?
If so, it's not clear in the photos. If you didn't then go ahead and do that. Continued good luck with the assembly.

Granpooba

My Feedback: (5)

May be wrong here, but I am still willing to bet that those gear legs bend forward on the very first landing. Anybody willing to take the bet

Georgiadude2012

Yes sir, but I will hook up again and neutral!!! Thanks

Georgiadude2012

Do the clevices have to be tri pod with 3 holes or does it matter. The rods are indeed brittle, the ones they include are straight and you have to use pliers to bend the end entering the servo horn. Very easy to bend.... What rods do you suggest. Thanks

Georgiadude2012

Don't be shy this is why I have this build form... LOL What do you suggest for the gear legs.....?

Granpooba

My Feedback: (5)

Just from what I can see in the pictures, they appear to me, not to be heavy gauge steel rod for that model.

On my Spitfire model of which is about the same size as yours, I installed Robart struts and the heaviest landing gear legs that I could find. Even with the shock absorbing struts and heavy legs, they still bent on landings.

Am presently building a Balsa USA Eindecker, thus I have not gotten back to the bent legs on my Spitfire, but someday I will. Hopefully I will come up with a better landing gear leg and strut. Thus I can not really recommend something for your Spitfire model.

Sorry ...............

Perhaps somebody has a good suggestion for the landing gears.

flyoz

My Feedback: (7)

All respect Granpooba but hes probably better using the thinner softer landing gear , they will bend rather than rip out a chunk of wing.
GD if or when your landings are good strengthen the wing and use stronger gear.

My two bobs worth on the underlying issue of size, type, experience. I am in no way a good flyer But I build some complex Planes and love every minute (will I ever be brave enough to fly them well err yes I maiden all my builds. I crash and rebuild a lot, but I do learn.
Will I ever be as good a flier as others? who cares? its MY hobby not theirs.

Re safety at the field. i see far far more experienced fliers crashing in the pits and breaking other peoples models on test flights than the beginners do.

But GD in having said all that i have picked up some great tips form the well meaning guys who bothered to respond here. If you have a bit of patience and dont take things so personally people can be very generous.
In general most people however wont ever help or venture an opinion so guys like the above are rare and precious..

Hab

Nope, they're fine ~ your eyes .

Georgiadude2012

Which dubro replacements are you referring to Thanks... http://www.motionrc.com/control-horns/

52larry52

My Feedback: (1)

G.D., You pulled my post and I didn't say anything about Dubro parts in it but no matter, if the guys who have one of these W.M. Spitfires say the hardware that comes with it should not be used then you just replace all the linkage and hardware with like size (or the next size up for the linkage wire) in a known quality manufactures brand such as Dubro. Junk quality hardware is too often supplied in ARFs and it is up to the assembler to make the call to use or replace the parts in question. It once again comes back to having the experience to know what to use and what to replace it with if its not suitable. For you to now find replacement pieces I would advise you to visit your local hobby store, take examples of what you want to replace with you and maybe get a knowledgeable store clerk to help you. I don't know what you have for a good hobby store in the Augusta area but if an old time "ma and pop" type hobby store exists I would try them first before going to Hobby Town USA or trying to guess at what you need with a mail order outfit in this case. I know a good hobby store in Newnan Ga. and in Roberta Ga. but you're on your own in Augusta. AMA has a "find a hobby shop" listing on their site but the list is quite incomplete. Good luck.