The Worlds Model Spitfire 80" Build Help!!!!!
#76
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Broaddus TX
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My first build was in 1974 and there was no internet no forums to go to to get information from. We had RCM Man MB or FM Or if you had the dues for your AMA, Model Aviation and it took weeks sometimes months to get an answer to a simple question. You're lucky these guys were here to help. In retrospect The man didn't ask for a history lesson on your own building techniques or your opinions on what size plane to begin with. Just by reading his questions you can tell he hasn't much experience building fixed wing aircraft. I had the same problems transitioning from fixed wing to rotary wing but I also have a natural mechanical ability and some common sense as to how to reverse engineer an instruction sheet. If you don't ask questions you don't learn anything. This thread turned into a pissing match almost immediately by him copping a Georgia attitude right off the bat and some of you still continued to offer great suggestions to his naïve questions and I commend you for that but you guys that kept at him about building or should I say ( Assembling) his Spitfire because you don't build an ARF you assemble it, were so much more ego intensive it was laughable. All you did was succeed in aggravating him and it was already obvious he has a short tolerance for corrective criticism. I enjoyed the thread though. Very entertaining. Good luck with your build GeorgiaDude2012. And I'm glad you stuck in there and didn't close the thread. My family lives in Richmond Hill Ga. hence the Georgia attitude comment. Lighten up and try to have fun. Post some pics of your first flight with the Spit. It's one of my favorite planes to scratch build. Just thought I'd through in some ego there so as to seem not out of place.
#78
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GD, the horns that come with the kit are OK(the black ones with the three mounting points), you just need to replace the links/rods and clevice's
I would use a ball link on one end (with the threaded end of the rod), and a solder clevice on the other(you need to cut to length).
However that adds another layer of complexity doing soldering, perhaps just buy some z bend pliers and threaded rods.
You can use a z bend on one end and a threaded clevice or ball link on the other.
Dubro rods bend nicely and will outlast any model, unless you do something really silly.
I would use a ball link on one end (with the threaded end of the rod), and a solder clevice on the other(you need to cut to length).
However that adds another layer of complexity doing soldering, perhaps just buy some z bend pliers and threaded rods.
You can use a z bend on one end and a threaded clevice or ball link on the other.
Dubro rods bend nicely and will outlast any model, unless you do something really silly.
#79
rgburrill and Hab; you two should have your eyes checked! In photo 2, the control linkage starboard/outboard of the blue & white stripe is the LH aileron linkage(bottom of LH wing is shown in the photo). The LH aileron servo arm is all the way forward, this should have the aileron at full deflection down(aileron would be pointing up in this photo) this will put the aircraft in a RH bank. Yet, the TE of the LH aileron is stream-lined with the TE of the wing. Therefore the LH aileron servo linkage is too long and the servo was not centered when the linkage was installed.
#80
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Robbie's Hobbies in Richmond Hill Ga. Mom Pop old time hobby shop. Go in to buy hardware and end up staying two hours drinking coffee or soda with the owners and a bunch of experienced modelers that really know their stuff. Wonderful atmosphere And good prices. Largest amount of RBRT retract parts I've seen in a shop that size. Worth the drive. Just outside Savannah. Pluss two fields within 10 minutes of the shop.
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#82
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World models spitfire
this goes way back but mine finished with a ryobi 31cc changed to electric then a dle 30 and currently has a dle 35. Flying at 16 lbs search YouTube for k4lll for several videos of it