TF GS Corsair Rudder Servo Relocated
08-17-2015, 12:53 AM
#1
TF GS Corsair Rudder Servo Relocated
I've relocated the rudder servo to the tail area above the retract. Here are some photos of how its done.
There is plenty of room to do this modification. I've simply opened up the slot thats cut into a brace and added wood blocks with epoxy to toughen it up again. The wood is 1/2x1/4in. I made a new short linkage from 4-40 rod and clevises.
Added a servo lead extension and shrink tubed it then zip tied it inside the fuse as needed.
The retract and steering cables are installed and the air lines routed as well.
This modification took me about 4hrs to complete as I figured a couple things out. It should go faster now having seen it in pictures for someone willing to do it.
There is plenty of room to do this modification. I've simply opened up the slot thats cut into a brace and added wood blocks with epoxy to toughen it up again. The wood is 1/2x1/4in. I made a new short linkage from 4-40 rod and clevises.
Added a servo lead extension and shrink tubed it then zip tied it inside the fuse as needed.
The retract and steering cables are installed and the air lines routed as well.
This modification took me about 4hrs to complete as I figured a couple things out. It should go faster now having seen it in pictures for someone willing to do it.
08-21-2015, 01:42 PM
#9
Finished rudder...
Yes it certainly has improved the set up over the stock long linkage. Its unsupported from the retract bulkhead to the torque rod plus the wire is much smaller that the guide tube thru the fuse. The end result is a lot of play at the rudder and the torque rod has been weak and easily twisted on my last one.
This time the rudder leading edge wood has been toughened with thin CA and the short direct linkage makes it a marked improvement over stock.
11-10-2015, 08:03 AM
#10
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if keeping the servo in the stock location, what modifications would you recommend to the linkage (and maybe the elevator linkage) in order to make it stiffer/more durable, on a new build prior to flight?
thanks
tony
thanks
tony
11-11-2015, 09:39 PM
#11
Hi Tony,
The rudder torque rod wire was weak and flexible on my first Corsair. I would determine if the one you have is weak or not first. You should have to strain in order to flex it. If not then it's the weaker wire and I'd consider making a new one or taking some other steps to improve things.
Hold it with a plier inside and with your hand see if you can flex the part that moves the rudder by hand.
Basically if your not able to make a new wire from piano wire then I'd take out any play/slop in the control rod, clevises and toughen up the wood in the rudder. The stock control rod is small inside the guide tube. You can install a couple sleeves to remove play and these will act like bushings. Also the distance from the bulkhead at the tail retract to the rudder torque rod is unsupported so the control rod flexes here. You can stiffen it up or support it. Solder a brass sleeve on the control rod to stiffen it up. Make sure it's able to slide in the guide tube.
The elevators can have the same sort of problem with soft torque rod wires. On the ARF the whole stab is built so unless your willing to make a major job out of the stab then you pretty much have to live with it. Focusing more on the control linkages and clevises again to make the controls as positive as possible.
Again I flew my first Corsair pretty hard wanting to prove to myself the unacceptable slop in the rudder was going to lead to a failure but instead it was ok, no fluttering. It was just unresponsive in flight after a certain speed.
The rudder torque rod wire was weak and flexible on my first Corsair. I would determine if the one you have is weak or not first. You should have to strain in order to flex it. If not then it's the weaker wire and I'd consider making a new one or taking some other steps to improve things.
Hold it with a plier inside and with your hand see if you can flex the part that moves the rudder by hand.
Basically if your not able to make a new wire from piano wire then I'd take out any play/slop in the control rod, clevises and toughen up the wood in the rudder. The stock control rod is small inside the guide tube. You can install a couple sleeves to remove play and these will act like bushings. Also the distance from the bulkhead at the tail retract to the rudder torque rod is unsupported so the control rod flexes here. You can stiffen it up or support it. Solder a brass sleeve on the control rod to stiffen it up. Make sure it's able to slide in the guide tube.
The elevators can have the same sort of problem with soft torque rod wires. On the ARF the whole stab is built so unless your willing to make a major job out of the stab then you pretty much have to live with it. Focusing more on the control linkages and clevises again to make the controls as positive as possible.
Again I flew my first Corsair pretty hard wanting to prove to myself the unacceptable slop in the rudder was going to lead to a failure but instead it was ok, no fluttering. It was just unresponsive in flight after a certain speed.
11-12-2015, 09:05 AM
#13
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Thanks Chris, will look into that.
Do epoxy the torque rods into the surfaces?
or just harden the holes with CA?
Was thinking that if the rods were epoxied into the surfaces, that should eliminate all the play at that location.
Tony
Do epoxy the torque rods into the surfaces?
or just harden the holes with CA?
Was thinking that if the rods were epoxied into the surfaces, that should eliminate all the play at that location.
Tony
11-12-2015, 06:18 PM
#16
Simple trick with epoxy and pin hinges is to apply a small drop of silicon oil for RC car shocks on the hinge only before glueing. The epoxy will not attach to the hinge. Do not use petroleum based oil it will weaken the plastic.
11-12-2015, 09:28 PM
#17
