TF GS Corsair & Saito FG84 RE MOD
#28
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Some updates on this project.
This design finishes pretty clean but its a tough tight fit. Im sure I could have left the tank out until the end but with limited visibility and tight spaces Im sure that would have posed other challenges.
So the engine is mounted now I need to prepare battery packs and button up the interior. Then its tail feathers and cockpit.
This design finishes pretty clean but its a tough tight fit. Im sure I could have left the tank out until the end but with limited visibility and tight spaces Im sure that would have posed other challenges.
So the engine is mounted now I need to prepare battery packs and button up the interior. Then its tail feathers and cockpit.
#29
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Latest updates;
The rudder is painted with the arrow and installed. Pretty straight forward.
The the elevator has been epoxied and aligned. The saddle needed some sanding to square it up. Don't trust the ARF parts as is. Take a look at the fit of the stock parts, horrible. So, I have the Monokote blue and plan to just put a strip to cover this canyon gap on each side.
The tail is done, rear gear doors done and now I'm just buttoning up the cockpit. Still need to paint Pappy. The engine is installed and now I'm just finishing up the receiver and servo wires. Very close to firing it up!
The rudder is painted with the arrow and installed. Pretty straight forward.
The the elevator has been epoxied and aligned. The saddle needed some sanding to square it up. Don't trust the ARF parts as is. Take a look at the fit of the stock parts, horrible. So, I have the Monokote blue and plan to just put a strip to cover this canyon gap on each side.
The tail is done, rear gear doors done and now I'm just buttoning up the cockpit. Still need to paint Pappy. The engine is installed and now I'm just finishing up the receiver and servo wires. Very close to firing it up!
#31
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No, I'm making a new cowl with the flaps open to help hide the difference in diameter. We're talking just a little over 5mm in diameter difference. The good thing is I'm working with an epoxy cowl instead of the stock polyester part so the cowl will be more stable when it's warmed up.
#32
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Brief update on the cowl today.
So the Saito required a larger cowl and it turns out the H9 Corsair cowl fits exactly. I have made modifications to get it to work. The H9 cowl is huge in comparison to the TF cowl. I've had to cut it shorter and remove the cowl flaps from the original part and make them the same size as the TF flaps. I basically applied the same proportions of the TF cowl so it looks similar. The front opening is the same ID on both cowls but the cowl diameters are different.
In order to get the side profile character of the Corsair I moved the cowl back 10mm to get more of the drive hub out there in front. I don't like it when you see a Corsair with the prop right next to the cowl it just looks wrong to me!
So basically if you want to do this engine update without cutting holes in the cowl then the best cowl is the H9 part to work with.
I suppose if you added the chin intakes on the stock cowl from the later Corsair you could use the original cowl. It's a bunch of extra work no matter what!
So the Saito required a larger cowl and it turns out the H9 Corsair cowl fits exactly. I have made modifications to get it to work. The H9 cowl is huge in comparison to the TF cowl. I've had to cut it shorter and remove the cowl flaps from the original part and make them the same size as the TF flaps. I basically applied the same proportions of the TF cowl so it looks similar. The front opening is the same ID on both cowls but the cowl diameters are different.
In order to get the side profile character of the Corsair I moved the cowl back 10mm to get more of the drive hub out there in front. I don't like it when you see a Corsair with the prop right next to the cowl it just looks wrong to me!
So basically if you want to do this engine update without cutting holes in the cowl then the best cowl is the H9 part to work with.
I suppose if you added the chin intakes on the stock cowl from the later Corsair you could use the original cowl. It's a bunch of extra work no matter what!
#33
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: hagerstown, MD
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Love the way you mounted the engine. I may just have to do something like this with mine. When I mounted the Fg84 in mine I just went with the stock exhaust. Now I want to mount the ring some the extended firewall is going to have to go.
As for Cowls, another option is the TF kit version from http://www.fiberglassspecialtiesinc.com/ I have the one with detail/cowl flaps open and it fits nicely over the radial.
As for Cowls, another option is the TF kit version from http://www.fiberglassspecialtiesinc.com/ I have the one with detail/cowl flaps open and it fits nicely over the radial.
#34
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Thanks V2rider
Are they still in business?
I thought we checked with them and found them closed or something.
Its interesting the kit cowl could work but the ARF cowl will not.
If I had to do this again I would try to lower the center of the engine about 5mm because the cowl would then be flush on top. If you have the cowl flaps open then the bottom of the cowl will hide that it's not concentric with the fuselage. Mine is centered within a couple millimeters of the fuse, it moved a little in the process of marking and drilling.
Im painting the cowl but the cold weather has made this slow going. I want the paint to work right!
In the end there's a small step on the top part which is ok but if your a scale purist it's obvious.
Are they still in business?
I thought we checked with them and found them closed or something.
Its interesting the kit cowl could work but the ARF cowl will not.
If I had to do this again I would try to lower the center of the engine about 5mm because the cowl would then be flush on top. If you have the cowl flaps open then the bottom of the cowl will hide that it's not concentric with the fuselage. Mine is centered within a couple millimeters of the fuse, it moved a little in the process of marking and drilling.
Im painting the cowl but the cold weather has made this slow going. I want the paint to work right!
In the end there's a small step on the top part which is ok but if your a scale purist it's obvious.
#35
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far as I know they are still open. I think they shut down a few weeks a year for vacations. You may have caught them then. Yep the kit cowl is a good bit bigger than the ARF. I 'm no scale purist, just like them to be close, and had to go this way at the time to avoid cutting holes in the cowl. Mine is also centered around the fuse. It leaves about a 3/8" gap all the way around and as you say it's obvious. The good thing though is nobody seems to care when the hear the engine. Plus it gives plenty of room for the warm air to escape the cowl.