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Fliteskin Ta-152 H1

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Old 11-12-2015, 09:53 PM
  #26  
serkan1978
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No what do you think i should get 22" or 33" one?
Old 11-12-2015, 10:26 PM
  #27  
JGrc
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For those long leading edges, I have a long one I think is 22", you can also make one with a straight piece of wood.

Make sure you sand a round smooth leading edge.


Spray a light coat of 3M on the paper side of the sand paper to tack it flat.
Start with 120 grit and work your way up.




JG
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Old 11-15-2015, 01:37 PM
  #28  
serkan1978
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I used hysol for the landing gears
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Old 11-15-2015, 02:22 PM
  #29  
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Apply a second layer over the corners after it has set.
JG
Old 11-19-2015, 11:05 PM
  #30  
serkan1978
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I will install 1 low profile high torque servo for the flaps for each wing and I added 4/40 cap screws with horn brackets on the torque rod
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Old 11-20-2015, 08:36 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by serkan1978
I will install 1 low profile high torque servo for the flaps for each wing and I added 4/40 cap screws with horn brackets on the torque rod
Looks like a perfect fit!. should work fine, you can put a longer bolt if you need more leverage.

JG
Old 11-21-2015, 07:46 AM
  #32  
serkan1978
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I decided to go with 2 servos for the flaps I was thinking it would be hard to adjust throws with one torque rod because The flaps are 2 pieces now I have 2 separate torque rod to operate the flaps
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Old 11-21-2015, 05:42 PM
  #33  
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You mean 1 servo per wing?
Old 11-21-2015, 05:45 PM
  #34  
serkan1978
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Originally Posted by JGrc
You mean 1 servo per wing?
no 2 servos for one wing for the flaps
Old 11-22-2015, 09:18 PM
  #35  
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You can use more servos but is not needed, also the more servos you have the more chances one will fail , giving you a partial flap.

JG
Old 11-22-2015, 09:43 PM
  #36  
serkan1978
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Originally Posted by JGrc
You can use more servos but is not needed, also the more servos you have the more chances one will fail , giving you a partial flap.

JG
only reason I decided to go with 2 servos I thought partial flaps will be easy to adjust the throws from the radio
Old 11-23-2015, 12:18 PM
  #37  
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It's a lot easier to adjust mechanically with the clevis.

JG
Old 11-23-2015, 08:06 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by JGrc
It's a lot easier to adjust mechanically with the clevis.

JG
I thought it was the other way around? Clicking the buttons on the transmitter for end point adjustment.
Old 11-24-2015, 09:22 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by fw190
I thought it was the other way around? Clicking the buttons on the transmitter for end point adjustment.
It's not easier if you have to adjust four servos, you will have to use four channels just for one function, when you can get away with using one channel and leave the other channels for other stuff.
On my Ta152 I have one channel driving 2 servos for 4 flap surfaces.

JG
Old 11-25-2015, 07:27 AM
  #40  
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I have more than enough channels on my receiver I still think it is easier to adjust from transmitter
Old 11-25-2015, 09:48 AM
  #41  
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If you only have 1 channel dedicated for the flap, then a JR Matchbox is better than mechanical if you do not have clear access to the linkages. You set it once for center and travel and your done never having to mess with it again.
Old 11-28-2015, 07:49 PM
  #42  
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I am planning to install the aileron linkage inside of the wing.I will make the decision after I try the aileron throws and pushrod movement
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Old 11-29-2015, 09:58 AM
  #43  
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I suppose you can do it but unlike the Fw190A/D models, the Ta152 did not have the linkage inside the wing. See below:





One builder in Germany sent me this drawing of the Aileron set up on his Ta152.
Pushrod is on top of the aileron, scale linkage for the trim tab shows under the aileron.




JG
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Old 12-01-2015, 07:51 AM
  #44  
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I decided to go with internal linkage I know that it is not scale if I find the way to make aileron trim tab functional I will make it scale looking
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Old 12-02-2015, 12:03 AM
  #45  
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I think the ailerons on the original were 'spring tab' ailerons, if you put a spring around the main pivot on the drawing above (where it says 'loose') you will get the idea. Flight loads less than the spring tension allows the pilot to move the whole aileron, when the loads exceed the spring tension, the main horn moves relative to the aileron, and the tab is then moved in a direction to assist the pilot to move the aileron. a common idea, the He 219 had the same deal...
Evan.
Old 12-02-2015, 10:37 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by serkan1978
Hi guys this is my first kit to build I would appreciate any comments and ideas I am planning to put saito fg 84 if it fits.
Serkan,

what is the diameter of the FG84?

Jose
Old 12-02-2015, 10:38 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by pimmnz
I think the ailerons on the original were 'spring tab' ailerons, if you put a spring around the main pivot on the drawing above (where it says 'loose') you will get the idea. Flight loads less than the spring tension allows the pilot to move the whole aileron, when the loads exceed the spring tension, the main horn moves relative to the aileron, and the tab is then moved in a direction to assist the pilot to move the aileron. a common idea, the He 219 had the same deal...
Evan.
Yes they were spring type ailerons.

JG
Old 12-02-2015, 10:40 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by serkan1978
I decided to go with internal linkage I know that it is not scale if I find the way to make aileron trim tab functional I will make it scale looking
have you tried the ailerons yet? do you have enough leverage and not too much slop?

Jose
Old 12-02-2015, 10:52 AM
  #49  
serkan1978
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Originally Posted by JGrc
Serkan,

what is the diameter of the FG84?



Jose
FG 84 Diameter. 250mm
Old 12-02-2015, 11:01 AM
  #50  
serkan1978
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Originally Posted by JGrc
have you tried the ailerons yet? do you have enough leverage and not too much slop?

Jose
I have tried it is more than enough it should be 17 up and down right? I have over 23


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