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How to Build a B-29

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Old 01-02-2016, 08:46 PM
  #101  
kram
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Half-planked nacelle with the cowl off, showing the firewall and the "well nuts" Dwayne uses to control engine vibration between the firewall and the nacelle

Page from McMaster Carr catalog, showing how they work and so you can order some, if you want

Longitudinal splines for the nacelles, part of the kit wood, but NEVER used in a Dwayne bomber build. Looking back at the cowl-less nacelle, you can see areas o n the inside surface of the nacelle planking where he will glue extra layers of hard balsa to add strength, but NO longitudinal splines! He thinks they just add complexity, get in the way of tank and gear mounting and don't add that much strength. Certainly, the longevity of Dwayne's planes speaks to the science of that hypothesis
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Old 01-02-2016, 09:45 PM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by kram View Post


Top half of all 4 nacelles planked with 1/8" hard balsa in about 1/2" strips. Dwayne estimates this took him about three hours total

That gives you some idea how fast he builds

That's fast!
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Old 01-04-2016, 03:48 PM
  #103  
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Next: planking the bottom half of nacelles, some of which will be gear-bay doors

Also a good time to lay inside double planking between the formers and outside the tank compartments: will add a lot of strength to the nacelles
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Old 01-05-2016, 07:38 PM
  #104  
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Bottom nacelle formers take some time to line up so planking will flow around the wheels and gear doors will look scale

I use two 1/8" balsa strips on the bottom centerline, so gear doors will be easy to part after the planking is finished. Only glue them together in the area where they won't be gear doors


The bulkhead just in front of the tires needs to be 1/8" aircraft ply, because it anchors the top of the gear door cylinders and will be the forward surface of the front gear door seam
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Old 01-05-2016, 07:40 PM
  #105  
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Bottom of outboard nacelles ready for planking
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Old 01-08-2016, 08:30 PM
  #106  
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Tedious little task of doubling nacelle wall thickness with 3/32" balsa planking on the inside, before finish planking bottom nacelles

Just like on the wing, carefully shaping the nacelle formers and dry-testing the planking ensures a smooth fit and none of that awkward sanding that leaves thin spots on the planking
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Old 01-08-2016, 08:33 PM
  #107  
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Bottom of Nacelle # 4 planked
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Old 01-08-2016, 08:40 PM
  #108  
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Carefully fitted 3/8" balsa blocks glued inside nacelles #2 and 3, where they will serve as gear doors' bases and hinge blocks

Bottom planking will be glued onto and outside of these 3/8" balsa blocks
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Old 01-08-2016, 08:49 PM
  #109  
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The two rear-most formers of nacelles #2 and 3 will be glued to a thin plywood base that 4-screws to the massive gear mounting plate

Thus forming an easily removable rear nacelle "shell" that will allow access to (and removal of) the main gear for servicing
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Old 01-09-2016, 09:24 PM
  #110  
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Planking the rear hatch part of nacelles #2 & 4

Note the little 1/4" ply plank that strengthens the base of the removable rear nacelle hatch, but doesn't cover the 6-32 screws that hold it to the wing
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Old 01-09-2016, 09:29 PM
  #111  
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Side view of #3 with gear doors cut off and rear hatch planked and slotted
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Old 01-09-2016, 09:34 PM
  #112  
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Perfecting the gear door openings:

I use two levels zip-tied together, do the openings at the same time

Straight edge then sits flat on all four gear hinge points, assuring symmetry and perfect door swing

Hinges will be Robart 1/8" with hinge pockets
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Old 01-09-2016, 09:41 PM
  #113  
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After planking: cut a slot for the gear strut, then dry-fit reassembly of the removable rear hatch

In some photos, gear has been removed to keep it from blocking our view.

Of course, when the rear nacelle hatch has been detached, this is really easy!
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Old 01-09-2016, 09:45 PM
  #114  
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Ventral view showing the 1/16" end caps on each gear door and the 1/64" temporary ply shims that will define our clearance gaps when they're removed
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Old 01-10-2016, 02:29 PM
  #115  
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Carefully measure center of doors before cutting them
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Old 01-10-2016, 02:32 PM
  #116  
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After cutting doors out, double-plank the inside for strength and rigidity
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Old 01-10-2016, 02:36 PM
  #117  
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Use a straight edge to line up all 12 gear door hinge locations

It is very important they be in a straight line fore-aft, also, or the door will bind
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Old 01-10-2016, 02:41 PM
  #118  
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Robart # 308 and #315

They're too long, so cut them and trim the burr carefully

I use epoxy for hinges and hinge pockets
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Old 01-10-2016, 02:44 PM
  #119  
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Use a homemade sanding tool to sand flat notches for hinge points

I use a 0.160" drill for the hinge pockets
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Old 01-10-2016, 02:47 PM
  #120  
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Cut slot for hinge pocket set screw so top of hinge pocket is flush with wood surface
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Old 01-10-2016, 03:11 PM
  #121  
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6 wheels

6 gear doors

2 gear door sequencers

brakes

Altogether add complexity to the build, but seem de rigueur for a decent scale B-29
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Old 01-11-2016, 08:15 AM
  #122  
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Awesome!
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Old 01-15-2016, 08:14 PM
  #123  
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Thanks!

Dwayne and I have both been working hard to pay for the hobby this week

More updates soon
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Old 01-19-2016, 07:18 AM
  #124  
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On the topic of Mindfullness and Meditation in Bomber Construction:

I spent some mental energy contemplating how to meld the fuselage to my (perfect) wing BEFORE I build it, so it doesn't become a snort-'n-root struggle to fit the two together AFTER I build it!

A little design and sequence planning I hope will save some sanding and grinding later

First: dry-fitting the wing saddles
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Old 01-19-2016, 07:21 AM
  #125  
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Layin' out the fuselage bones
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