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How to Build a B-29

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Old 01-19-2016, 07:23 AM
  #126  
kram
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How the saddle fits in the bones
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Old 01-19-2016, 07:32 AM
  #127  
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Formers 11 thru 16 need to lose some wood before they're installed (see pencil lines)

Leave just a shallow notch to catch the wing saddle (as shown)

Use former 5, 6 or 7 as a pattern

This is a lot more easily done BEFORE than after assembly, and will leave space for bomb bays and center wing hardware
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Old 01-19-2016, 07:35 AM
  #128  
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Left half of the fuse is planked and solid

It weighs less than 1.5 lbs!
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Old 01-19-2016, 07:37 AM
  #129  
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Measure other wing saddle to make sure of 3 degrees + incidence on center wing
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Old 01-22-2016, 08:11 PM
  #130  
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Level the left fuse and glue it solidly to the table
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Old 01-22-2016, 08:16 PM
  #131  
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Sharpen a small piano wire and gently punch holes in the left planking to mark the cut-out for the wing saddles

This will even make doing the other side easier
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Old 01-22-2016, 08:17 PM
  #132  
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Tunnel Vision!
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Old 01-22-2016, 08:25 PM
  #133  
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Stringers on

Balsa strips applied to former edges to get them ready for sanding

Sanding: just like the wing, how smooth and flat you get the former edges BEFORE you plank, will make the planking look a lot better and easier to sand

Note the long level for sanding, just like the wing.

All the above, including sanding took about 2.5 hours

I like to get one 2-3 hr step finished every day I'm building: keeps the project moving along and frees your mind to think of the next step
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Old 01-22-2016, 08:30 PM
  #134  
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Fully planked fuse, ready for rough-sanding

Editor's Note: I don't know how he got that done in two days! Was it my turn to watch him??

I think he may have spent more than 2-3 hours. Would've take me a week, at least!
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Old 01-22-2016, 08:41 PM
  #135  
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The Builder's Second Law of Thermodynamics:

The further a project progresses, the messier is my shop

Now that 90% of the "gluing" is done, I have emptied four 8oz bottles of CA and one 8oz bottle of kicker
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Last edited by kram; 01-22-2016 at 09:15 PM.
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Old 01-23-2016, 08:50 PM
  #136  
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Wing saddles cut out and framed

Beef up area for wing bolts:

Vertical gussets with lightening holes made to strengthen fuse wall outside and wing saddle inside

Then 1/4 aircraft ply epoxied to fit on (below) gussets

Receiver holes for the two wing bolts per side with be drilled and tapped after the wing fit is perfected
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Old 01-23-2016, 08:55 PM
  #137  
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Nose gear installed and she is ON HER FEET!

Not too far behind her predecessor ? years ago
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Old 01-23-2016, 08:59 PM
  #138  
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Fuse with nose gear, but no empennage < 4 lbs

I am optimistic final dry weight of aircraft will be in the high 40's
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Old 01-24-2016, 11:44 AM
  #139  
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I rated this thread 5 stars, I wish there were more. Keep up the good work!!
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Old 01-24-2016, 05:12 PM
  #140  
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Thanks, bolar! (and he's not even a relative!)

Frontal view of inboard and outboard nacelles to show how much room we'll have for tanks, throttle servos, etc

Outboards will fit 24 oz tanks, inboards will have 16 oz, plenty for > 10 min flight with a Saito 91

A lot of this extra room in the nacelles is a result of bypassing Don Smith plans for engine mounts and nacelles stringers and doing it the way we detailed earlier in the thread
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Old 01-24-2016, 05:20 PM
  #141  
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Tapping fuse for 1/2" LE dowels and 4 wing bolts.

I ream the fuse bolt holes just a little to make starting the wing bolts easy

The little homemade tool shown fits into the LE holes drilled for dowels, then perfectly marks centerpoint for drilling the fuse former to fit
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Old 01-24-2016, 05:32 PM
  #142  
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Inlaid tiles of 1/8" aircraft ply on bottom of wing where bolt heads will tighten: then saturated tiles with thin CA

Then overlay tiles and this whole strip of underwing with a plate of 1/32" aircraft ply

Then drill 4 holes through the ply reinforcements from holes in the top side of the wing

Last is a picture from the underside of the wing bolted to the fuse
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Old 01-24-2016, 05:41 PM
  #143  
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Between the top of the wing and the rigid (but perfectly 3 degrees +) fuse saddles, I laid a matte of softer 1/4" balsa

Much easier to sand and mate to perfection than the actual wing surface or fuse saddles, and adds great strength to the thin saddles, AND after sanding, fiberglass and paint, the "matte" will be invisible
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Old 01-24-2016, 08:30 PM
  #144  
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Looking good!
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Old 01-25-2016, 05:44 AM
  #145  
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Great thread kram.Why the different size tanks? Nose weight?
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Old 01-25-2016, 07:17 PM
  #146  
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Begin the Empennage
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Old 01-25-2016, 07:33 PM
  #147  
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SWORDSN:

Different tanks because of two converging factors: one on the work table and the other in the air

1) There is simply more room in the outboard nacelles because they carry no landing gear
2) 4-engine bombers fly without much conscious correction (except a little added throttle) if an inboard runs out of fuel

(Running out of fuel on an outboard demands more exacting yaw and roll control)

So, especially at events where bombers often fly in groups and runway clutter is common, it's nice to know your outboards will last 50% longer. A Saito will run about 35 minutes on a 24 oz tank in a slow holding pattern

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Old 01-25-2016, 07:37 PM
  #148  
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Dwayne's first Don Smith B-29 has no added weight, except a large NiCad about 6 inches from the nose
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Old 01-26-2016, 06:25 AM
  #149  
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I will never build a B-29, but I like watching this build. Thanks.

Brian

P.S. In an earlier post, don't you mean the "
nice to know your outboards will last 50% longer"

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Old 01-26-2016, 11:01 AM
  #150  
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aghost:

Typo

Fixed it

Thanks,

mt
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