Go Back  RCU Forums > RC Airplanes > RC Warbirds and Warplanes
Reload this Page >

Top RC Zero from Gator R/C

Notices
RC Warbirds and Warplanes Discuss rc warbirds and warplanes in this forum.

Top RC Zero from Gator R/C

Old 12-11-2015, 05:35 PM
  #26  
jonyfever
My Feedback: (5)
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: vancouver, BC, CANADA
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

yes dean ill agree i waited six months for this baby and it was really worth the wait. as per our flap discusion if got all the controll surfaces glued in and there perfect had do do a little work but thats part of the fun the flaps are glued in and holding strong that was my only concern didnt seem like much meet back there but used the old six 10 glue and no problems tomorrow installing the servos . ill do the same as hot rod and install the servos in the elevators instead of pushrods for easier transportation this suckers big dean need one of those transport cradels lol
Old 12-11-2015, 08:11 PM
  #27  
Helijet
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Kamloops, BC, CANADA
Posts: 1,023
Received 9 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

Hey sal

Great to hear! Post some pics when you have a chance. Chris is working on the cradle design this weekend and should have them for guys to check out later next week.

We need to do some formation flying next year with these things! BTW Paul may be getting the P51! We can attack him together.....lol

D.W.
Old 12-11-2015, 09:15 PM
  #28  
Stratotanker
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Otis Orchards, WA
Posts: 993
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Well,

I have had a chance to look at Deans Zero and I have to say that I am pretty impressed. Packaging was absolutely top notch, far better than any multi thousand dollar jet aircraft I have built. Overall appearance is wonderful and most of all, the structural layout of critical structural components are well placed. Granted, there may be some cosmetic issues here and there but I am excited to get this beast started. The epoxy glass layup is very nice and light weight, not a lot of excess resin left to weigh her down. I do agree that the bottom of the fuse is a little flimsy but that will be rectified in the very near future with some support members. These will be key with the maintenance/support cradle that Dean and I are designing. Before replacing hinge points, I am going to do some testing to really validate that they need replacing. Anyway, I just wanted to say hi to the gang and am looking forward to working as a team with all of you to make this and all the aircraft top notch models!

Chris

Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	20151209_124059.jpg
Views:	9361
Size:	1.42 MB
ID:	2135467   Click image for larger version

Name:	20151211_183033.jpg
Views:	9483
Size:	1.56 MB
ID:	2135468   Click image for larger version

Name:	20151211_183049.jpg
Views:	9408
Size:	1.41 MB
ID:	2135469  
Old 12-11-2015, 09:17 PM
  #29  
Stratotanker
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Otis Orchards, WA
Posts: 993
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Here is the plane on a universal stand that we crafted, there will be a custom one tailored to the Zero so that it may be safely transported, assembled and maintained.



Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	20151211_183107.jpg
Views:	9970
Size:	1.69 MB
ID:	2135470   Click image for larger version

Name:	20151211_183118.jpg
Views:	9363
Size:	1.37 MB
ID:	2135471   Click image for larger version

Name:	20151211_183434.jpg
Views:	9269
Size:	1.65 MB
ID:	2135472  
Old 12-11-2015, 09:20 PM
  #30  
Stratotanker
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Otis Orchards, WA
Posts: 993
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	20151211_183131.jpg
Views:	8875
Size:	1.18 MB
ID:	2135473   Click image for larger version

Name:	20151211_183152.jpg
Views:	8867
Size:	1.18 MB
ID:	2135474   Click image for larger version

Name:	20151211_183206.jpg
Views:	9107
Size:	1.56 MB
ID:	2135475  
Old 12-12-2015, 07:04 AM
  #31  
youngguy
My Feedback: (7)
 
youngguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Edmonton, AB, CANADA
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Helijet
Hey sal

Great to hear! Post some pics when you have a chance. Chris is working on the cradle design this weekend and should have them for guys to check out later next week.

We need to do some formation flying next year with these things! BTW Paul may be getting the P51! We can attack him together.....lol

D.W.
Bring them to Princeton and maybe I'll have a spit to add to the mix. Sounds interesting. Working hard on a new Spit.
Looks like the Zero has some nice detail on the glass work. Should be a nice flying airplane.
Old 12-12-2015, 08:51 AM
  #32  
mjolivet
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Hi Guys,

I'm new to RCU, and am really glad to see this thread. I received my Zero from Mike a couple of weeks ago, and I haven't even unboxed it yet. I'm ordering parts and making space in the garage to work on it. I should start assembling mine next weekend. I'm not a great builder / assembler, so I'm really looking forward to learning from some of you that are ahead of me. Also looking forward to some flight reports.

Looks like several of us are going with the EME 70 twin. I'm waiting for Mile High RC to get them back in stock.

Dean and Chris, I too will be interested in some of your products. Especially the maintenance / support cradle.

Martin
Old 12-12-2015, 09:08 AM
  #33  
jonyfever
My Feedback: (5)
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: vancouver, BC, CANADA
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

stratotanker the engine your going to be using the eme70 will the cowl need to be cut for the sparkplug boots ? i would like to get something that would fit in and not reqire anything sticking out a friend of mine is bringing over the saito 84 radial ill report back and see how it fits so far the one that does fit in neatly is the evo 77 radial but nitro yuck at almost 50 bucks a gallon here on the coast ill pass might try and take off the valve covers of the saito might give me the room i need .
Old 12-12-2015, 09:41 AM
  #34  
youngguy
My Feedback: (7)
 
youngguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Edmonton, AB, CANADA
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by jonyfever
the one that does fit in neatly is the evo 77 radial but nitro yuck at almost 50 bucks a gallon here on the coast ill pass might try and take off the valve covers of the saito might give me the room i need .
The Evo is a sweet running engine. One of the locals is using one and I am very impressed. I am not sure that the power would be suficent for this model. As to the price of the fuel, it is likely the lessor expense on a project like this. Lots of choices for a power plant. Really hard to pick one, but twins are very appealing because of the vibration issues with the larger gas jobs. In addition to adequate power, I would be looking to reliability above everything.
Old 12-12-2015, 10:32 AM
  #35  
Helijet
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Kamloops, BC, CANADA
Posts: 1,023
Received 9 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

Good to see you here Bruce. I still have my H9 Spitfire in the box. Looking at electrifying it though! I'll at least have something for the Edmonton event next year!
Its been my experience that any single over 50 - 55 cc becomes quite destructive on a scale airframe. The vibration causes all sorts of issues so I have been using twins recently and I am amazed as to how well they run and the low vibration benefits. I like the 4 stroke / radial option but just can't justify the cost and going back to nitro. The other reason I chose the EME 70 twin with the electric start is that this is a short nosed warbird. Its going to need a lot of weight up in the nose - so the EME package is at least useable weight.

My thinking anyway.....we'll see

D.W.

Last edited by Helijet; 12-12-2015 at 04:04 PM.
Old 12-12-2015, 01:50 PM
  #36  
Stratotanker
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Otis Orchards, WA
Posts: 993
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by jonyfever
stratotanker the engine your going to be using the eme70 will the cowl need to be cut for the sparkplug boots ? i would like to get something that would fit in and not reqire anything sticking out a friend of mine is bringing over the saito 84 radial ill report back and see how it fits so far the one that does fit in neatly is the evo 77 radial but nitro yuck at almost 50 bucks a gallon here on the coast ill pass might try and take off the valve covers of the saito might give me the room i need .
I am almost certain that the cowling will have to be cut to clear the boots, unless I can find a way to make some low profile ones to clear.......
Old 12-12-2015, 03:49 PM
  #37  
TimD.
My Feedback: (207)
 
TimD.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 754
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by youngguy
The Evo is a sweet running engine. One of the locals is using one and I am very impressed. I am not sure that the power would be suficent for this model. .
I have one in a TF giant corsair. weights 32lbs flies it just fine and fast.
Old 12-12-2015, 04:12 PM
  #38  
Stratotanker
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Otis Orchards, WA
Posts: 993
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Preliminary design of the cradle will begin on monday afternoon after work.
Old 12-12-2015, 04:31 PM
  #39  
youngguy
My Feedback: (7)
 
youngguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Edmonton, AB, CANADA
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Stratotanker
I am almost certain that the cowling will have to be cut to clear the boots, unless I can find a way to make some low profile ones to clear.......
Would you consider using 1/4 - 32 plugs? The ignition modual would have to be changed to accommodate the plugs.
Old 12-12-2015, 05:13 PM
  #40  
Stratotanker
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Otis Orchards, WA
Posts: 993
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Interesting question! I would have to research if that was possible, I know that a thread adapter would be needed, easily made on the lathe though.

Chris
Old 12-12-2015, 06:26 PM
  #41  
youngguy
My Feedback: (7)
 
youngguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Edmonton, AB, CANADA
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Talk to C&H electronics. They have the adapters and could also provide information on the use of the smaller plugs. I have used them with methonal fuels with no problems and have seen them used successfully with gasoline as well.
Old 12-12-2015, 07:01 PM
  #42  
jonyfever
My Feedback: (5)
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: vancouver, BC, CANADA
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

bruce i got a buddy thats selling a saito450 its nitro but tons of power for this plane the overall dimension i think is 9 1/2 inches wich is just about what the cowl is i was thinking of taking off the valve covers do u think it would give me the room i gota have a radial in this puppy
Old 12-13-2015, 07:43 AM
  #43  
youngguy
My Feedback: (7)
 
youngguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Edmonton, AB, CANADA
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by jonyfever
bruce i got a buddy thats selling a saito450 its nitro but tons of power for this plane the overall dimension i think is 9 1/2 inches wich is just about what the cowl is i was thinking of taking off the valve covers do u think it would give me the room i gota have a radial in this puppy
I don't know anything about the Saito 450, so it wouldn't be fair for me to comment on your proposal. You may want to contact Ray English who is doing mods on Saito engines. I don't have any contact information for him but you should be able to find it on one of the forms discussing engine issues and mods to fix them.
Old 12-13-2015, 09:03 AM
  #44  
Helijet
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Kamloops, BC, CANADA
Posts: 1,023
Received 9 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

So, in a moment of weakness I ordered the man behind the sticks....
BEST PILOTS - Saburo Sakai 1/5 scale WWII Japanese Pilot PAINTED
Should look good in the office!

Dean
Old 12-13-2015, 09:23 AM
  #45  
mjolivet
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Nice!
Old 12-14-2015, 06:49 AM
  #46  
Hot Rod Todd
My Feedback: (1)
 
Hot Rod Todd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Robins, IA
Posts: 1,278
Likes: 0
Received 18 Likes on 15 Posts
Default

I've started to build, and as I mentioned I will try to post as much as I can. I've built a lot of planes, so I have certain ways I do things that may be different than some. I'll be addressing things as I find them, and will post my solutions.

My build will use the EME-70cc twin. As some mentioned, the cowl will need just a bit of cutting to clear the plug boots. I'll paint the boots black and not worry about it. I'd rather keep the CM-6 style NGK plugs that I know will run well vs. swap to the tiny plugs that are unfamiliar to me. I've seen how much they stick out on the prototype, and I think it will look fine.

I'll be doing some work to improve the scale look of the plane. This will include some cockpit mods, scheme change, and any other steps I notice that would help the scale appearance. Most of this will be towards the end of the build, but I'll be hitting odds and ends as I go. My friend has a Best Pilots Saburo Sakai, so I'll be able to do a test fit. If he fits well enough I'll get one.

Here's the scheme I'll be doing. So let's get started!
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	A6M5_Zer0-sen_302-ku_night-fighter_.jpg
Views:	8447
Size:	30.7 KB
ID:	2135736  

Last edited by Hot Rod Todd; 12-14-2015 at 08:40 AM.
Old 12-14-2015, 07:11 AM
  #47  
Hot Rod Todd
My Feedback: (1)
 
Hot Rod Todd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Robins, IA
Posts: 1,278
Likes: 0
Received 18 Likes on 15 Posts
Default

First off I will not be following the exact order of the instructions. Sometimes it's easier to do things in a certain order, but in some cases I just decide I want to work on one piece before another. I'll try not to jump around too much.

First thing I decided to do was glue the Control horns onto the surfaces. These horns appear to be well made and are much like many of the jet ARF's out there.

I decided to use 4-40 Dubro ball links instead of the stock ones. I don't think the stock ones would be a problem, just personal preference. The Dubro use a larger screw, so the first thing I had to do was drill out the horns to accept them. Still seems to be plenty of beef for them to be a very strong set up.


I then roughed up the surface to give the glue some help. I checked all of the slots in the surface to make sure they were ready. It took a bit of digging with an X-acto, but they weren't too bad. I noticed the spacing was not always the same between the dual slots.



I used Hysol Glue for this step. There is nothing better for gluing glass. It's not cheap, but it's the best.



Once I made sure the horns would all slide in I was ready to glue. A couple needed to be trimmed just a bit to make sure they would drop down all the way into the surface. I used the 4-40 bolts and put a ball link between two first, that way I could make sure the spacing was right as the glue dried. Also it's a good idea to align the two surface to make sure you have the same offset and hit the hinge line properly. The instructions show putting tape on the surface, but I found that I could do better without. I kind of like the bead of glue that forms when I stick them into the slots. Just take your time, and make sure you have some paper towels and alcohol handy in case you get glue on the nice paint job. Here's a photo of the horns glued in and set aside to cure.


Once they dried, I removed all of the ball links and decided to paint the horns. Testors Japan Navy Sky Gray is a good match, at least in areas without the green over spray. I'll match the paint perfectly later and take care of that over spray during the detailing process.

Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2735.JPG
Views:	8438
Size:	249.4 KB
ID:	2135737   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2737.JPG
Views:	8434
Size:	294.4 KB
ID:	2135738   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2740.JPG
Views:	8461
Size:	292.3 KB
ID:	2135739   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2742.JPG
Views:	8580
Size:	243.7 KB
ID:	2135740   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2746.JPG
Views:	8476
Size:	201.1 KB
ID:	2135741  
Old 12-14-2015, 07:27 AM
  #48  
Hot Rod Todd
My Feedback: (1)
 
Hot Rod Todd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Robins, IA
Posts: 1,278
Likes: 0
Received 18 Likes on 15 Posts
Default

Next I decided to hinge the surfaces. I found that the Robart 3/16" hinge points are pretty much the same exact size. If you look at the Robarts, they have a stronger rivet, and are quite a bit tighter than the stock ones. It's not a lot of extra expense for such a critical component. The stockers might work fine, but once again I'll go with what I trust.


I'll be using some Z-poxy 30-minute epoxy to glue in the hinges. Make sure you use 30 minute or more for this step, and I would only mix up enough for one area. You don't want it to harden in the middle of the process.

First check fit all the hinges. You'll notice that some have to be shortened a bit due to the horiz. stab tube or the end of the elevator. Get everything to fit before you even mix up the glue. Have your paper towels and alcohol ready so you can wipe off any glue that gets on the paint.

The instructions show some type of tube on the hinges, then say to cut it out. I'll be using my method with vasoline. Apply vasolene to all of the hinge points hinging area. Be careful not to get any on the glue surface of the hinge point. Then I mix up the glue. The key here is to get plenty of glue inside the pockets, but don't have a bunch gushing out all over the place. I first put a bunch in each hinge holes, both sides.



Then put a layer of epoxy on one side of the hinge point. I then feed it into the stationary surface, using a bit of twisting action to try to work the glue down into the hole. Once all of the hinges are in for that surface, I put some glue on the other side of the point and slide the movable surface into the hinges. Once it's down all the way, make sure you move the surface the desired throw amount, and maintain alignment. At this point I set it aside and do the others.

After about 30 minutes I go back and check each surface. Make sure it moves free and still has the alignment and movement that I want. Also a good time to look for any "shiny" areas on the paint that can be wiped off with alcohol. After about another hour I'll check again to make sure they move freely. Normally you don't have to dig out any epoxy from the hinge areas if you used the correct amount of glue.



My hinge mounts were very well done. There was some slight mis-alignment where the surface might be a bit towards one side or the other, but nothing to worry about. They were drilled better than I usually do if I do it myself. Very happy with the hinging on my Zero. I'll be doing the flaps next.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2747.JPG
Views:	8360
Size:	138.4 KB
ID:	2135742   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2748.JPG
Views:	8287
Size:	268.7 KB
ID:	2135743   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2749.JPG
Views:	8333
Size:	259.5 KB
ID:	2135744   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2750.JPG
Views:	8372
Size:	215.7 KB
ID:	2135745  
Old 12-14-2015, 07:39 AM
  #49  
Hot Rod Todd
My Feedback: (1)
 
Hot Rod Todd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Robins, IA
Posts: 1,278
Likes: 0
Received 18 Likes on 15 Posts
Default

Hopefully the expert builders are not getting bored with the detail I'm providing. I took a detour and was messing with the tail wheel retract. I found a nice looking wheel (stock one is bad) that looks the part. The scale Zero tail wheel for carrier use was very small (5.75" diameter) solid rubber. My 1.75" diameter wheel is bigger than scale, but will provide better ground handling. I don't know what the wheel is, I had it in a box and it's off of some ARF. If I had to buy one I'd use the 1.5" Dubro. I might end up with one of those if my foamy wheel is not durable. It looks the part as well.


For the retract servo I used a Hitec HS-5087MG, light and powerful as well as programmable. You'll notice the hole in the mount is very long and thin, nothing really matches it. So I had to build up some wood on the one end to shorten the hole. Since the 5087 is a digital servo, I could bump up the travel using a programmer. This allows the horn to rotate farther, and come closer to locking out, thus reducing stress that the servo sees in the down locked or up position. I used a 2-56 threaded rod and some linkage to hook it up. Slowed it down a bit with my radio, and set the end points. Here's how it looks in the full down and full up positions.


Post if you have questions, I'll have more soon.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	dubq0955.jpg
Views:	8146
Size:	24.0 KB
ID:	2135746   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2744.JPG
Views:	8344
Size:	190.5 KB
ID:	2135747   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2745.JPG
Views:	8441
Size:	197.3 KB
ID:	2135748  
Old 12-14-2015, 02:46 PM
  #50  
Helijet
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Kamloops, BC, CANADA
Posts: 1,023
Received 9 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

Very informative and a great supplement to the on line manual - thank you. Finding the right paint for touch up is always a challenge on arfs. Great to see Testors is a match.

D.W.

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.