Top RC Zero from Gator R/C
#476
Thanks again,
jim
#477
The packs I am using are the 10c packs.
Link to packs:
FlightPower LiPo DR10 Drone 6S 22.2V 10000mAh 10C XT60 | TowerHobbies.com
Link to packs:
FlightPower LiPo DR10 Drone 6S 22.2V 10000mAh 10C XT60 | TowerHobbies.com
#478
The packs I am using are the 10c packs.
Link to packs:
FlightPower LiPo DR10 Drone 6S 22.2V 10000mAh 10C XT60 TowerHobbies.com
Link to packs:
FlightPower LiPo DR10 Drone 6S 22.2V 10000mAh 10C XT60 TowerHobbies.com
#485
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Join Date: Sep 2003
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eme 70 with auto starter
I am at the process of installing the EME 70 with the auto starter in the top rc zero. With the "un-greased" gears of the auto-starter in the rear of the engine, the supplied 17 mm standoffs supplied with eme 70 would be too short and the gears of the starter hitting the top of the motor mount frame. I re-installed the engine with 25mm (one inch) stand offs which seem to put the front of the engine right about at the 173mm from the front of the firewall frame as noted in the instructions. The gears of the starter now have about 2 mm clearance from the top of the firewall frame box. Is this too close for the starter gears, or would I be ok with vibration, etc? If too close, would a steel washer or two be ok to put between the engine and the standoff to provide a little more clearance or just shave off about 1/4" of the top of the firewall frame where the larger gear is? thanks
Last edited by rckymtn1; 10-19-2017 at 04:43 PM.
#487
Did you use the baffles from Keleo?
Did you use the pressure fitting off the Keleo exhaust?
What prop did you use?
Thanks
Jim
#489
I cut my own baffles with my CNC router, overheating is still a problem. I since modified the baffle around the top cylinder and opened up the cowl flaps. I am using a Keleo ring muffler but I didn't use the fitting, because I was advised that it was for smoke.
#490
Some people swear by it while others say it makes no difference. I'm still experimenting. I've had great success tuning on ground. Transition is very good. Idle stable. 5800 rpm...but two deadsticks.
I've opened up the cowl flaps and got rid of the mounting ring to increase airflow. Used 6 "L" brackets instead. At the suggestion of an "expert" I moved the baffles from middle of the cylinder heads to slightly aft. I'm also going to run the two bladed with a slightly rich mixture for when it leans out in the air. Will try out new system this weekend.
wish me luck,
jim
#491
My Feedback: (41)
Hey Guys
On behalf of TopRCModel, Gator-RC and Caiman Distribution I want to thank everyone who has posted on this thread.
The TRCM Zero has been a great seller.
In the next week or so we will open up pre-sales for the new TopRCModel FW 190 A8.
This has been in the works for a long time.
The selling price is the same as the Zero. The size is almost identical, so, the same equipment that works in the A6M Zero is good for this plane.
You will be able to reserve a plane with a $500 deposit.
The planes will be in stock by years end.
These sales will filter thru Caimandist.com my sister company and the exclusive importer for all things TopRCModel in North America.
Plus pictured is our New Hawker Hunter 180 Jet. This is 96" long and again here in about 2 months with presales available.
You can view the planes and get manuals and information on our new site.
TopRCmodel-USA.com
On behalf of TopRCModel, Gator-RC and Caiman Distribution I want to thank everyone who has posted on this thread.
The TRCM Zero has been a great seller.
In the next week or so we will open up pre-sales for the new TopRCModel FW 190 A8.
This has been in the works for a long time.
The selling price is the same as the Zero. The size is almost identical, so, the same equipment that works in the A6M Zero is good for this plane.
You will be able to reserve a plane with a $500 deposit.
The planes will be in stock by years end.
These sales will filter thru Caimandist.com my sister company and the exclusive importer for all things TopRCModel in North America.
Plus pictured is our New Hawker Hunter 180 Jet. This is 96" long and again here in about 2 months with presales available.
You can view the planes and get manuals and information on our new site.
TopRCmodel-USA.com
Last edited by mups53; 10-21-2017 at 04:22 PM.
#495
Test flight of new cowl setup went well. The Saito 84 & Keleo exhaust ran much cooler . Eliminating the cowl ring, opening cowl flaps, and positioning baffles aft of cylinder center-line seem to do the trick. Engine ran a little rich at 5700 rpm with 24x12 prop.
Zero climbed quite a bit...needed some down Elevator trim...about an 1/8th inch. Wondering if my CG is off and need to add more nose weight.
jim
Zero climbed quite a bit...needed some down Elevator trim...about an 1/8th inch. Wondering if my CG is off and need to add more nose weight.
jim
#497
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Slidell, LA
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Test flight of new cowl setup went well. The Saito 84 & Keleo exhaust ran much cooler . Eliminating the cowl ring, opening cowl flaps, and positioning baffles aft of cylinder center-line seem to do the trick. Engine ran a little rich at 5700 rpm with 24x12 prop.
Zero climbed quite a bit...needed some down Elevator trim...about an 1/8th inch. Wondering if my CG is off and need to add more nose weight.
jim
Zero climbed quite a bit...needed some down Elevator trim...about an 1/8th inch. Wondering if my CG is off and need to add more nose weight.
jim
Would you please post some pictures of the 'L brackets' holding the cowl? Also did you have the 'Ray English Mods' done to the engine?
Thanks,
Gary
#498
Hey Gary,
Yes, I have the Ray English mods.
Here is a picture of the brackets. They were cut from a length of aluminum I found at Home Depot. 3/4 inch wide and 1/8 thick. It was easy to bend with a vice and hammer. The long leg of the bracket holding the cowl is 2 inches. I glued some ply to the bracket and sanded to the contour of the cowl then drilled and tapped the six brackets. They were all a different size and I matched them up to the positions on the original wooden cowl ring. Air flow is a lot better.
Yes, I have the Ray English mods.
Here is a picture of the brackets. They were cut from a length of aluminum I found at Home Depot. 3/4 inch wide and 1/8 thick. It was easy to bend with a vice and hammer. The long leg of the bracket holding the cowl is 2 inches. I glued some ply to the bracket and sanded to the contour of the cowl then drilled and tapped the six brackets. They were all a different size and I matched them up to the positions on the original wooden cowl ring. Air flow is a lot better.
#499
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Hey Gary,
Yes, I have the Ray English mods.
Here is a picture of the brackets. They were cut from a length of aluminum I found at Home Depot. 3/4 inch wide and 1/8 thick. It was easy to bend with a vice and hammer. The long leg of the bracket holding the cowl is 2 inches. I glued some ply to the bracket and sanded to the contour of the cowl then drilled and tapped the six brackets. They were all a different size and I matched them up to the positions on the original wooden cowl ring. Air flow is a lot better.
Yes, I have the Ray English mods.
Here is a picture of the brackets. They were cut from a length of aluminum I found at Home Depot. 3/4 inch wide and 1/8 thick. It was easy to bend with a vice and hammer. The long leg of the bracket holding the cowl is 2 inches. I glued some ply to the bracket and sanded to the contour of the cowl then drilled and tapped the six brackets. They were all a different size and I matched them up to the positions on the original wooden cowl ring. Air flow is a lot better.
Thanks for the pictures. Let me know if that cured the heat problem. I am close to baffling and mounting the cowl. The heat problems are kind of freaking me out and would rather install 'the solution'.
Gary
#500
Should know if everything worked after flight on Sunday. Going to run without the pressure fitting from Keleo exhaust and see what effect it has on performance and transition.