TOPRC/GatorRC P-51 Mustang 89"
#382
My Feedback: (28)
Hi Guys.
after reading everything I could on this model and the Hangar 9 Mustang, I decided on the Top RC. Old Crow arrived yesterday! I have a new DLE 61 for power. I bolted on the Jtech standard size wrap around muffler that I am using for my Hellcat and it looks like it clears the firewall and most of the cowl. Only a small halfmoon cut out will be necessary for the lower edge of the can on the left side of the cowl. Just wondering what muffler you guys used with the DLE 61. Jtech also has a compact version but I really don't know how much it differs dimensionally. The lower standoffs are a bit wider than the top so some triangle stock will need to be removed for clearance. My impression of the engine box is that it is too light and poorly glued with ill fitting triangle stock so I plan to go over this area and beef it up, glass or otherwise reinforce it as needed. The only other thing that jumps out at me is the paint job of the cockpit. Pretty sloppy so I will have to redo that and also fashion a reasonable sized control stick. Any advice is appreciated!
after reading everything I could on this model and the Hangar 9 Mustang, I decided on the Top RC. Old Crow arrived yesterday! I have a new DLE 61 for power. I bolted on the Jtech standard size wrap around muffler that I am using for my Hellcat and it looks like it clears the firewall and most of the cowl. Only a small halfmoon cut out will be necessary for the lower edge of the can on the left side of the cowl. Just wondering what muffler you guys used with the DLE 61. Jtech also has a compact version but I really don't know how much it differs dimensionally. The lower standoffs are a bit wider than the top so some triangle stock will need to be removed for clearance. My impression of the engine box is that it is too light and poorly glued with ill fitting triangle stock so I plan to go over this area and beef it up, glass or otherwise reinforce it as needed. The only other thing that jumps out at me is the paint job of the cockpit. Pretty sloppy so I will have to redo that and also fashion a reasonable sized control stick. Any advice is appreciated!
#384
My Feedback: (2)
I had a lot of problems cooling mine even with a fairly large opening. I also added 1/4" holes to the perforated plates on each side of the cowl and made the dummy exhaust functional as through cooling holes with larger 5/8 tubing. I was seeing temps well over 300 degrees. What did it for me was adding a reverse scoop in front of the cowl opening. This was absolutely dramatic. Most of the time it is below 200 and the most I ever seen was 220 in very hot summer heat. Here is a photo of the fiberglass reverse scoop and another after I painted it. It is not that noticeable.
I had a lot of problems cooling mine even with a fairly large opening. I also added 1/4" holes to the perforated plates on each side of the cowl and made the dummy exhaust functional as through cooling holes with larger 5/8 tubing. I was seeing temps well over 300 degrees. What did it for me was adding a reverse scoop in front of the cowl opening. This was absolutely dramatic. Most of the time it is below 200 and the most I ever seen was 220 in very hot summer heat. Here is a photo of the fiberglass reverse scoop and another after I painted it. It is not that noticeable.
I had a lot of problems cooling mine even with a fairly large opening. I also added 1/4" holes to the perforated plates on each side of the cowl and made the dummy exhaust functional as through cooling holes with larger 5/8 tubing. I was seeing temps well over 300 degrees. What did it for me was adding a reverse scoop in front of the cowl opening. This was absolutely dramatic. Most of the time it is below 200 and the most I ever seen was 220 in very hot summer heat. Here is a photo of the fiberglass reverse scoop and another after I painted it. It is not that noticeable.
Fiberglass Air Dam
Does not hurt the scale appearance much.
Fiberglass air dam
You can barely see it in the air.
I had a lot of problems cooling mine even with a fairly large opening. I also added 1/4" holes to the perforated plates on each side of the cowl and made the dummy exhaust functional as through cooling holes with larger 5/8 tubing. I was seeing temps well over 300 degrees. What did it for me was adding a reverse scoop in front of the cowl opening. This was absolutely dramatic. Most of the time it is below 200 and the most I ever seen was 220 in very hot summer heat. Here is a photo of the fiberglass reverse scoop and another after I painted it. It is not that noticeable.
I had a lot of problems cooling mine even with a fairly large opening. I also added 1/4" holes to the perforated plates on each side of the cowl and made the dummy exhaust functional as through cooling holes with larger 5/8 tubing. I was seeing temps well over 300 degrees. What did it for me was adding a reverse scoop in front of the cowl opening. This was absolutely dramatic. Most of the time it is below 200 and the most I ever seen was 220 in very hot summer heat. Here is a photo of the fiberglass reverse scoop and another after I painted it. It is not that noticeable.
Fiberglass Air Dam
Does not hurt the scale appearance much.
Fiberglass air dam
You can barely see it in the air.
#385
My Feedback: (28)
Hi guys. I'm not officially building this plane yet because I'm still working on my Top-flight Hellcat but I had to mount the engine so I could do a mock-up of the muffler and figure out what I needed to order. I used my standard size Jtec wrap around pitts muffler that I bought for the Hellcat as a refrence. I am working with Al from j Tech and it looks like I'm going to get a version of his P-51 wrap around pitts Muffler. At any rate I used the template in my dle 61 manual lined it up with the reference lines on the firewall and drilled the holes for the standoffs. Once the engine was mounted, I noticed that the engine sits a little low so the spinner is not lined up with the top of the cowling. It's off by about three to five millimeters. I'm going to have to plug those holes with a hardwood dowel , then re-drill at higher point than the horizontal reference line on the firewall. Has anybody else noticed this?
Last edited by MaJ. Woody; 11-19-2019 at 07:53 PM.
#387
#388
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Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Tampa, FL
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The Roto 85FSI looks like the perfect marriage for this airframe. Pictures of the instal and also baffling would be appreciated if anyone can assist?
Last edited by GR8R8; 12-29-2019 at 05:36 AM.
#389
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (207)
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Sorry I just saw the posting. I don't get emails anymore when there is a thread posting.
I will get a couple of pics this weekend for you.
For the most part the engine is 95% completely enclosed . The are two holes coming out for the exhaust but are not noticeable.
I will get a couple of pics this weekend for you.
For the most part the engine is 95% completely enclosed . The are two holes coming out for the exhaust but are not noticeable.
Last edited by TimD.; 12-31-2019 at 06:32 PM.
#390
Hi Tim,
thanks, that would be great. Looks to be a good combo. I got my Corsair just prior to Xmas and it looks pretty good. Haven’t had the whole thing out of the box yet but the wing panels look good.
thanks, that would be great. Looks to be a good combo. I got my Corsair just prior to Xmas and it looks pretty good. Haven’t had the whole thing out of the box yet but the wing panels look good.
#391
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Join Date: Dec 2019
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I bit the bullet and purchased the Roto 85FSI and expect it sometime this week. I will post a couple of pics of my progress soon.
I'm hoping I can get it to fit completely within the cowl and also get the exhaust to exit at the bottom.
I'm hoping I can get it to fit completely within the cowl and also get the exhaust to exit at the bottom.
#392
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (207)
Here is a couple of pics. Its hard to get around in my shop for photos. The first cylinder head sticks out a bit also . I baffeled mine to help cool the second cylinder. Mine runs about 220-230F on both cylinders. I have a temp probe around the front cylinder.
Remember this is a LOW RPM engine so you will need at least 12" of pitch on the prop you use. 14 would be better.
Last edited by TimD.; 01-05-2020 at 03:24 PM.
#394
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (207)
Not as good as I had hoped. I was using a Menz 24x12 2-blade. I have not flown it in a while. I planned to get a higher pitched prop for more airspeed. The motor runs at
52-5300 rpm's which is low. It is a low RPM engine. The consensus is it tops out 5500. It has a limiter or something built into the CDI unit.
52-5300 rpm's which is low. It is a low RPM engine. The consensus is it tops out 5500. It has a limiter or something built into the CDI unit.
#397
Hi all, I'm building mine and I'm having trouble squeezing the front windshield into the front part of the canopy. Do I need to cut it into 2 or 3 pieces to get it in?
Also, has anyone use the EME 60 with electric starter? The trial fit of the engine suggested that I need to file some metal off the electric motor mounting frame. Even so, I don't know if it is going to fit without hitting the cowl.
Thanks for your replies.
Also, has anyone use the EME 60 with electric starter? The trial fit of the engine suggested that I need to file some metal off the electric motor mounting frame. Even so, I don't know if it is going to fit without hitting the cowl.
Thanks for your replies.
#399
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Having problems with the TOPRC landing gear. Cycling perfectly on the ground but ones in the air after take off one side will stall hallway
when retracting. I then have to slow the plane right down with half flaps , put the gear down and then retract again at the same
flying speed. When it comes to landing …….same thing, you have to slow the plane down like your on finals to get the gear down.
Using the TOPRC controller on a 2 cell lipo.
Anybody else having the same problem or have a solution please.
Greetings
Wian
when retracting. I then have to slow the plane right down with half flaps , put the gear down and then retract again at the same
flying speed. When it comes to landing …….same thing, you have to slow the plane down like your on finals to get the gear down.
Using the TOPRC controller on a 2 cell lipo.
Anybody else having the same problem or have a solution please.
Greetings
Wian
#400
I guess that you are using the electric retract. I am using the same gear but have not maiden it yet, will be this weekend. Anyway, I'm surprise that electric gear have this issue. Normally, Robart air retract has this problem because they use a tiny air cylinder and it didn't provide enough force to move the heavy wheel. I think you need to give more delay between your gear and the main door. The door may be closed before the gear reached half way.