TOPRC/GatorRC P-51 Mustang 89"
#376

My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Saint James, NY
Posts: 419

Not sure about the Roto 85 but the RCGF 60 rear exhaust fits completely in the cowl. If yo shave off 1/8" from the twin exhaust pipes they will fit as well, although it might get a little warm.
#377

My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Saint James, NY
Posts: 419
#378

Thread Starter
My Feedback: (207)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 682

The engine fits inside completely but the exhaust pipes stick out of the side. Two 3/4" holes
#379

My Feedback: (69)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Camp Hill,
PA
Posts: 267

Thanks.
Is there any way to port the exhaust where the holes will be unseen, maybe below the nose?
Is there any way to port the exhaust where the holes will be unseen, maybe below the nose?
#380

Thread Starter
My Feedback: (207)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 682
#381

My Feedback: (69)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Camp Hill,
PA
Posts: 267

Thanks, Tim. Any chance you can post a photo of the exhaust cutouts at your convenience?
#382

My Feedback: (26)
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Rochester,
NY
Posts: 4,907

Hi Guys.
after reading everything I could on this model and the Hangar 9 Mustang, I decided on the Top RC. Old Crow arrived yesterday! I have a new DLE 61 for power. I bolted on the Jtech standard size wrap around muffler that I am using for my Hellcat and it looks like it clears the firewall and most of the cowl. Only a small halfmoon cut out will be necessary for the lower edge of the can on the left side of the cowl. Just wondering what muffler you guys used with the DLE 61. Jtech also has a compact version but I really don't know how much it differs dimensionally. The lower standoffs are a bit wider than the top so some triangle stock will need to be removed for clearance. My impression of the engine box is that it is too light and poorly glued with ill fitting triangle stock so I plan to go over this area and beef it up, glass or otherwise reinforce it as needed. The only other thing that jumps out at me is the paint job of the cockpit. Pretty sloppy so I will have to redo that and also fashion a reasonable sized control stick. Any advice is appreciated!
after reading everything I could on this model and the Hangar 9 Mustang, I decided on the Top RC. Old Crow arrived yesterday! I have a new DLE 61 for power. I bolted on the Jtech standard size wrap around muffler that I am using for my Hellcat and it looks like it clears the firewall and most of the cowl. Only a small halfmoon cut out will be necessary for the lower edge of the can on the left side of the cowl. Just wondering what muffler you guys used with the DLE 61. Jtech also has a compact version but I really don't know how much it differs dimensionally. The lower standoffs are a bit wider than the top so some triangle stock will need to be removed for clearance. My impression of the engine box is that it is too light and poorly glued with ill fitting triangle stock so I plan to go over this area and beef it up, glass or otherwise reinforce it as needed. The only other thing that jumps out at me is the paint job of the cockpit. Pretty sloppy so I will have to redo that and also fashion a reasonable sized control stick. Any advice is appreciated!
#383

My Feedback: (11)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 23,588

Make sure you have enough exit area for the hot air to get out.
#384

My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Saint James, NY
Posts: 419

I had a lot of problems cooling mine even with a fairly large opening. I also added 1/4" holes to the perforated plates on each side of the cowl and made the dummy exhaust functional as through cooling holes with larger 5/8 tubing. I was seeing temps well over 300 degrees. What did it for me was adding a reverse scoop in front of the cowl opening. This was absolutely dramatic. Most of the time it is below 200 and the most I ever seen was 220 in very hot summer heat. Here is a photo of the fiberglass reverse scoop and another after I painted it. It is not that noticeable.
I had a lot of problems cooling mine even with a fairly large opening. I also added 1/4" holes to the perforated plates on each side of the cowl and made the dummy exhaust functional as through cooling holes with larger 5/8 tubing. I was seeing temps well over 300 degrees. What did it for me was adding a reverse scoop in front of the cowl opening. This was absolutely dramatic. Most of the time it is below 200 and the most I ever seen was 220 in very hot summer heat. Here is a photo of the fiberglass reverse scoop and another after I painted it. It is not that noticeable.
I had a lot of problems cooling mine even with a fairly large opening. I also added 1/4" holes to the perforated plates on each side of the cowl and made the dummy exhaust functional as through cooling holes with larger 5/8 tubing. I was seeing temps well over 300 degrees. What did it for me was adding a reverse scoop in front of the cowl opening. This was absolutely dramatic. Most of the time it is below 200 and the most I ever seen was 220 in very hot summer heat. Here is a photo of the fiberglass reverse scoop and another after I painted it. It is not that noticeable.

Fiberglass Air Dam

Does not hurt the scale appearance much.
Fiberglass air dam
You can barely see it in the air.
I had a lot of problems cooling mine even with a fairly large opening. I also added 1/4" holes to the perforated plates on each side of the cowl and made the dummy exhaust functional as through cooling holes with larger 5/8 tubing. I was seeing temps well over 300 degrees. What did it for me was adding a reverse scoop in front of the cowl opening. This was absolutely dramatic. Most of the time it is below 200 and the most I ever seen was 220 in very hot summer heat. Here is a photo of the fiberglass reverse scoop and another after I painted it. It is not that noticeable.
I had a lot of problems cooling mine even with a fairly large opening. I also added 1/4" holes to the perforated plates on each side of the cowl and made the dummy exhaust functional as through cooling holes with larger 5/8 tubing. I was seeing temps well over 300 degrees. What did it for me was adding a reverse scoop in front of the cowl opening. This was absolutely dramatic. Most of the time it is below 200 and the most I ever seen was 220 in very hot summer heat. Here is a photo of the fiberglass reverse scoop and another after I painted it. It is not that noticeable.

Fiberglass Air Dam

Does not hurt the scale appearance much.
Fiberglass air dam
You can barely see it in the air.
#385

My Feedback: (26)
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Rochester,
NY
Posts: 4,907

Hi guys. I'm not officially building this plane yet because I'm still working on my Top-flight Hellcat but I had to mount the engine so I could do a mock-up of the muffler and figure out what I needed to order. I used my standard size Jtec wrap around pitts muffler that I bought for the Hellcat as a refrence. I am working with Al from j Tech and it looks like I'm going to get a version of his P-51 wrap around pitts Muffler. At any rate I used the template in my dle 61 manual lined it up with the reference lines on the firewall and drilled the holes for the standoffs. Once the engine was mounted, I noticed that the engine sits a little low so the spinner is not lined up with the top of the cowling. It's off by about three to five millimeters. I'm going to have to plug those holes with a hardwood dowel , then re-drill at higher point than the horizontal reference line on the firewall. Has anybody else noticed this?
Last edited by MaJ. Woody; 11-19-2019 at 07:53 PM.
#386


is there anyway you can show more pictures of how i can make my sliding canopy.