*Seagull Westland Lysander*
#251
My Feedback: (65)
There are no holes in the tops of the struts... You have to locate and drill them yourself... And this doesn't match the manual, much like the CG in the manual doesn't match anything...
I took 4 3mm cap screws, lopped of the heads, chucked them up in my drill press and filed the cut end into a point. I used these in the wing holes to make dimples where I thought the struts should match. Mine are not perfect, but they are only off by a bit so mounting for flight is not a bad at all. The bottom of the struts on the spats -- that is much more painful... The limited access under the bracket (along the spats), and the fact that the bracket angle is a little off from where the struts want to be when attached to the wing, make getting that screw started really painful. This attachment is my only complaint when assembling this model...
I took 4 3mm cap screws, lopped of the heads, chucked them up in my drill press and filed the cut end into a point. I used these in the wing holes to make dimples where I thought the struts should match. Mine are not perfect, but they are only off by a bit so mounting for flight is not a bad at all. The bottom of the struts on the spats -- that is much more painful... The limited access under the bracket (along the spats), and the fact that the bracket angle is a little off from where the struts want to be when attached to the wing, make getting that screw started really painful. This attachment is my only complaint when assembling this model...
I did it the hard way.
- I first made sure which strut was forward and right & left.
- I then matched the lower mount and drilled the single hole for reference
- I then used some tape on the wing to extend center line marks from the holes so when I placed the two struts on the wing over the hole, I could then mark the center.
- I drilled the hole a little larger to account for imperfections and it worked fine.
#252
My Feedback: (65)
Do not try to nail down the canopy in one piece. You need to remove the cockpit section first and fasten it to the removable cockpit, then fasten the remainder of the canopy to the frames.
I used screws on my two Lysanders.
Scott
Last edited by Fly2XS; 01-16-2018 at 11:05 AM.
#254
My Feedback: (65)
The covering is OraCover AKA Ultracote.
I believe the Seagull Lysander is covered in:
The aircraft has the vinyl markings applied and is then covered with a flat clear acrylic coat (Krylon)
I hope that helps.
Scott
I believe the Seagull Lysander is covered in:
- Light Green (across the top) 042
- Green (Dark Camo) 040
- Cream (underside) 012
The aircraft has the vinyl markings applied and is then covered with a flat clear acrylic coat (Krylon)
I hope that helps.
Scott
#256
My Feedback: (18)
The covering is OraCover AKA Ultracote.
I believe the Seagull Lysander is covered in:
The aircraft has the vinyl markings applied and is then covered with a flat clear acrylic coat (Krylon)
I hope that helps.
Scott
I believe the Seagull Lysander is covered in:
- Light Green (across the top) 042
- Green (Dark Camo) 040
- Cream (underside) 012
The aircraft has the vinyl markings applied and is then covered with a flat clear acrylic coat (Krylon)
I hope that helps.
Scott
As for the matte finish spray -- flat from Krylon is too flat. I used the matte finish with better results. I had to scuff off the flat I used at first and re-spray with matte -- the sheen was noticeably different when viewed at an angle... I put proper colored roundels on the tops of my wings and had to spray them to match since the vinyl is glossy...
#257
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 52
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Thanks Galen B I'll check around and see what I can find for covering I'm sure I'll have more questions.
And I do what size of tires did you put on yours and did you put a light kit on your wheel pants and if so what did you use for the light
Thanks Tom
And I do what size of tires did you put on yours and did you put a light kit on your wheel pants and if so what did you use for the light
Thanks Tom
#259
Join Date: Jan 2017
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Thanks for your help Galen B and Scott
the reason for all the questions is that I had a bad landing with my lysander and it broke right at the cockpit the fuselage cracked right there I had to take the covering off and it pulled off with some of the wood fibers on it so I didn't think it would iron back on it didn't look like there was any glued that would stick.
Thanks Tom
the reason for all the questions is that I had a bad landing with my lysander and it broke right at the cockpit the fuselage cracked right there I had to take the covering off and it pulled off with some of the wood fibers on it so I didn't think it would iron back on it didn't look like there was any glued that would stick.
Thanks Tom
#260
My Feedback: (65)
I worked with Tom @TnT Landing gear to create stronger gear for the Seagull Lysander and I'm flying with 6" Robart 6 spoke wheels.
I bought the Sulivan 7" aluminum wheels as they are the correct size but I like my spokes.
I've got the landing lights for my next set of spats and I plan to make it open cockpit to show the pilot & gunner. I'm looking at opening the wheel wells in the spats to show off the spoked wheels as well.
I loved how well mine flew that I have a 3rd kit in the shop just in case the 2nd needs retirement!
I bought the Sulivan 7" aluminum wheels as they are the correct size but I like my spokes.
I've got the landing lights for my next set of spats and I plan to make it open cockpit to show the pilot & gunner. I'm looking at opening the wheel wells in the spats to show off the spoked wheels as well.
I loved how well mine flew that I have a 3rd kit in the shop just in case the 2nd needs retirement!
Last edited by Fly2XS; 01-17-2018 at 07:21 AM.
#265
My Feedback: (18)
Grey:
https://www.oracover.de/katalog/arti...m-length_--2-m
Olive Drab:
https://www.oracover.de/katalog/arti...m-length_--2-m
Cream:
https://www.oracover.de/katalog/arti...m-length_--2-m
SIG should be able to email the factory asking for the Oracover color codes... I will send an email to Seagull and post on their Facebook page to see if I can get the exact color codes...
#268
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 52
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I think I will use the cream from Horizon Hobby and the olive drab you said you have used the cream before. The olive looks pretty close that I can see and then I'm thinking I will paint the grey on I don't need a whole lot and that's kind of expensive. I had Lowe's match me some gray paint up that looks really close. I do really appreciate your help I will keep them websites.
Thanks Tom
Thanks Tom
#269
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 52
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Now I'm going to change the subject from building to trimming it out. When I was flying my plane and when I would use my right rudder the right-wing would dip down and when I went with the left Rudder the left when would dip down.
I mixed Rudder to aileron and it didn't seem to help unless I didn't put enough in but I was putting more in on each flight. Do I have to use the flaps as ailerons also.
I was using the ailerons didn't seem like it would turn it turn it.
or am I flying This Plane all wrong I'm not much into military planes. Any suggestions
ThanksTom
I mixed Rudder to aileron and it didn't seem to help unless I didn't put enough in but I was putting more in on each flight. Do I have to use the flaps as ailerons also.
I was using the ailerons didn't seem like it would turn it turn it.
or am I flying This Plane all wrong I'm not much into military planes. Any suggestions
ThanksTom
#270
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Barrow-in-Furness, , UNITED KINGDOM
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If you are going to the trouble of recovering then why do you not go for more scale colours. I eventually used solatext on mine which gave me a more realistic finish and is more resilient to hangar rash. Most Lizzies were brown ( Dark Earth) and Green camo top and sky or grey underside.
#271
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Barrow-in-Furness, , UNITED KINGDOM
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Now I'm going to change the subject from building to trimming it out. When I was flying my plane and when I would use my right rudder the right-wing would dip down and when I went with the left Rudder the left when would dip down.
I mixed Rudder to aileron and it didn't seem to help unless I didn't put enough in but I was putting more in on each flight. Do I have to use the flaps as ailerons also.
I was using the ailerons didn't seem like it would turn it turn it.
or am I flying This Plane all wrong I'm not much into military planes. Any suggestions
ThanksTom
I mixed Rudder to aileron and it didn't seem to help unless I didn't put enough in but I was putting more in on each flight. Do I have to use the flaps as ailerons also.
I was using the ailerons didn't seem like it would turn it turn it.
or am I flying This Plane all wrong I'm not much into military planes. Any suggestions
ThanksTom
It goes back to flying 3 channel models where you had no ailerons at all and you turned the aircraft by using the rudder which, if you had the correct amount of dihedral in the wing coursing the wing to dip and the airfcraft to turn.
you can dial in some opposite aileron but depend how severe the dipping is.
you mau have too much dihedral on the wings coursed by the spars forcing the wings up too much but i cant see that... I think what you are experiencing is normal...
With ref to it not turning... Use a combination of ailerons, rudder and elevator to stop it dropping the wing..
Last edited by UK Warbird Guy; 01-18-2018 at 08:12 AM. Reason: Adding extra info
#272
Join Date: Jan 2017
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I'm not going to be recovering the whole plane I'm only recovering the front fuselage below the cockpit
I was going for that least expensive and the quickest fix and when we get all done I might be covering the whole thing I'm not real good at covering I will see what happens .
Thanks Tom
I was going for that least expensive and the quickest fix and when we get all done I might be covering the whole thing I'm not real good at covering I will see what happens .
Thanks Tom