*Seagull Westland Lysander*
01-18-2018, 08:03 PM
#278
Warbirds over Iowa is scheduled for July 2018.
- Warbirds Over Iowa 2018
- Saturday, July 21 2018
- (Bad Weather Date July 22)
- 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM
Since I hate wrinkly airplanes I have decided to never paint over any kote of any kind... Other than SolarTex that is...
01-24-2018, 03:58 AM
#283
Join Date: Jan 2017
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I'm trying to keep it the same color all I have to paint is the gray about 2 feet of it for. I'm not recovering the whole thing if I were I would use solartex
I went to Lowe's and they can match the paint pretty close so I was going to try to paint just a little bit for now
ThanksTom
I went to Lowe's and they can match the paint pretty close so I was going to try to paint just a little bit for now
ThanksTom
01-25-2018, 12:29 PM
#286
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Barrow-in-Furness, , UNITED KINGDOM
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You can get an etch primer called Solarlac or any etch primer will do, but tbh if you are just painting directly onto existing covering even though it has a matt finish already applied should be ok I have done it loads of times but I usually just prime it first with a normal Car primer.
01-25-2018, 12:39 PM
#287
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Barrow-in-Furness, , UNITED KINGDOM
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This is what happened when I forgot I had used Acrylic black on the Fuz and then sprayed Cellulose blue and yellow on top. It reacted and bubbled. Easily fixed though I just resprayed with yellow Acrylic the same colour, left the blue as you can't see it now its calmed down . Oh in case you are wondering when dry the Acrylic is Petrol Proof.
Last edited by UK Warbird Guy; 01-25-2018 at 12:41 PM. Reason: added extra detail
01-25-2018, 12:56 PM
#288
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'm going to stay with the color the plane came with the grey the cream and the olive drab.
I can get the paint at Lowe's and I was going to paint over some solartex covering. Didn't know what I had to do to prep the covering before I painted it.
I only have to paint like two foot of it I'm not recovering the whole plane I'm just fixing what I had to tear off. I was thinking it was going to be latex paint and then I would put a clear coat on it if that works.
Thanks
I can get the paint at Lowe's and I was going to paint over some solartex covering. Didn't know what I had to do to prep the covering before I painted it.
I only have to paint like two foot of it I'm not recovering the whole plane I'm just fixing what I had to tear off. I was thinking it was going to be latex paint and then I would put a clear coat on it if that works.
Thanks
02-19-2018, 06:50 AM
#291
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Barrow-in-Furness, , UNITED KINGDOM
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Ok mine is finished now and ready for the test flight... Just got to wait for the right day now.. Hopefully not too long..
Some final pics of her finished..
Some final pics of her finished..
04-17-2018, 05:47 AM
#295
Senior Member
My Feedback: (25)
The Seagull Lysander is a better scale model than the Phoenix (IMHO).
Do not try to nail down the canopy in one piece. You need to remove the cockpit section first and fasten it to the removable cockpit, then fasten the remainder of the canopy to the frames.
I used screws on my two Lysanders.
Scott
Do not try to nail down the canopy in one piece. You need to remove the cockpit section first and fasten it to the removable cockpit, then fasten the remainder of the canopy to the frames.
I used screws on my two Lysanders.
Scott
05-31-2018, 06:18 AM
#300
Join Date: May 2018
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Hello fellow Lizzie builders,
Before I build a new aircraft, I check for information regarding the aircraft both full size and models. Quite a lot of information is available for the Seagull Lysander and most mention these faults:
1. CG position is too far forward.
2. Stab incidence is wrong.
3. Cowl is too long.
4. Undercarriage is soft.
Reading up on the real aircraft I found that it had 2 main issues:
1. Was a temperamental engine that would quit if incorrectly handled when opening the throttle
2. The adjustable tail plane had to be set correctly for the mode of flight as the elevators were not that powerful.
Most of the build blogs I saw were powered with 60cc and larger motors and a friend asked me to test his 5 Cylinder Magnum four stroke, so this was the main reason for me buying the Lysander as I thought it would be a great match. On reading the blogs I was concerned about the CG and incidence issues so I decided that I would test fly the airframe on Super Tigre and once sorted move on to the 5 cylinder. I first thought I would test fly with a 45cc but once I had a good look at the kit I thought that that much power was not needed and a 3250 would be plenty.
Building the airframe was quite easy with the construction and fittings all being good and all the supplied parts and fittings being used. The overall design was very good and covering was excellent. A few parts construction were not clear, I had to cut slots in the wheel pants/covers to clear the strut attachments. I added ply to the rib for the elevator servo mountings and made a 6mm ply wedge to change the geometry of the tail wheel as it slanted forward not back. I also strengthened the wheel pants/ covers with 163 gram cloth and epoxy to make them stronger in the areas that I thought needed it. Epoxy was also added to the forward fuselage to fuel proof and strengthen the undercarriage area. I found that the wing could be moved up and down on the leading edge as the hole for the anti-rotation dowel was elongated. I made a template and added a second dowel to the rear of the root rib to prevent this play. When doing this I had the wing with the most positive incidence that was available.
I mounted the ST 3250 that my son had been given and found to my dismay that it would not run, I was faced with to options, one was to use another 3250 that I was not happy with or use a 30 year old reliable 30cc ST. I changed motors and test ran the 30 which seemed strong and reliable. My main question was now would it be enough as I fly at 5500 feet above sea level so this affects lift and engine performance. I reasoned with myself that a ¼ J3 would fly well on a .90 two stroke or a .120 four stroke, this was the same amount of wing so allowing for more drag and higher weight the 30cc should be enough power.
A local modeller posted pictures of a Seagull Lysander that he test flew a week before and I contacted him to query what they had done and also what the aircraft flew like. They had not changed the incidence on the stab but had moved the C.G. 10mm behind the leading edge at the root of the wing. Flight performance was great and over powered with a twin cylinder 60cc motor. I got my aircraft to the airworthy stage so I could test fly to see for myself what the performance was like as the varied reports do cast doubts of the flying qualities and the fact that I have never seen a previous Lysander model in my 45+ years of modelling seemed to indicate that it would not be an easy flying aircraft. I balanced the model on my fingertips at around 10mm on the leading edge and did not change the incidence of the stab.
Sunday morning early I picked up my son and we went to the flying field and assembled the aircraft before there was even enough light to fly. Range check done with the motor running just to ensure all was good, final control checks done and time to see if it flies! Take off was brisk and climb out was brisk and quite a bit of up trim needed but all other controls were fine. I throttled back to less than a 1/3 throttle for some circuits but found it hard to slow down, the Lysander was too fast for scale even with low power. I let Byron fly it and he climbed and did a stall test and it just slows down to a ridiculously slow speed with no bad habits. Byron also had a problem slowing it down so we landed and changed the prop from a 20x8 Top Flight to a Master Airscrew 20x6. Next flight was a bit better speed wise and still plenty of power for climbs. Landing was a little fast as Byron complained that he ran out of up but had not given power to help and had not used flaps. I elected to take it home to ensure all was still good before flying again.
So, what am I changing? Nothing so far, I want to fly it a little more before I decided what is needed. I think landing with a little flap is a good idea as it is more lift and drag so you can have a little power to help the elevators. If we are honest and you want to design a great flying aircraft it will not look anything like a Lysander, high aspect ratio wings with lots of taper and a low aspect ratio tail plane with lots of taper are not what you would expect on an aircraft. As this is a scale model, that is what you have to have so the challenge of flying scale aircraft is flying it in a scale manner. Each aircraft will have its quirks and that is what I enjoy is learning to live with them and that would mean fly a Lysander slow and gentle. If you feel the need for speed build a Mustang or Spitfire but then do not expect them to fly slowly.
This is a great aircraft that I look forward to flying for many years and commend Seagull for producing such a great unusual aircraft, I love it!
Chris
Before I build a new aircraft, I check for information regarding the aircraft both full size and models. Quite a lot of information is available for the Seagull Lysander and most mention these faults:
1. CG position is too far forward.
2. Stab incidence is wrong.
3. Cowl is too long.
4. Undercarriage is soft.
Reading up on the real aircraft I found that it had 2 main issues:
1. Was a temperamental engine that would quit if incorrectly handled when opening the throttle
2. The adjustable tail plane had to be set correctly for the mode of flight as the elevators were not that powerful.
Most of the build blogs I saw were powered with 60cc and larger motors and a friend asked me to test his 5 Cylinder Magnum four stroke, so this was the main reason for me buying the Lysander as I thought it would be a great match. On reading the blogs I was concerned about the CG and incidence issues so I decided that I would test fly the airframe on Super Tigre and once sorted move on to the 5 cylinder. I first thought I would test fly with a 45cc but once I had a good look at the kit I thought that that much power was not needed and a 3250 would be plenty.
Building the airframe was quite easy with the construction and fittings all being good and all the supplied parts and fittings being used. The overall design was very good and covering was excellent. A few parts construction were not clear, I had to cut slots in the wheel pants/covers to clear the strut attachments. I added ply to the rib for the elevator servo mountings and made a 6mm ply wedge to change the geometry of the tail wheel as it slanted forward not back. I also strengthened the wheel pants/ covers with 163 gram cloth and epoxy to make them stronger in the areas that I thought needed it. Epoxy was also added to the forward fuselage to fuel proof and strengthen the undercarriage area. I found that the wing could be moved up and down on the leading edge as the hole for the anti-rotation dowel was elongated. I made a template and added a second dowel to the rear of the root rib to prevent this play. When doing this I had the wing with the most positive incidence that was available.
I mounted the ST 3250 that my son had been given and found to my dismay that it would not run, I was faced with to options, one was to use another 3250 that I was not happy with or use a 30 year old reliable 30cc ST. I changed motors and test ran the 30 which seemed strong and reliable. My main question was now would it be enough as I fly at 5500 feet above sea level so this affects lift and engine performance. I reasoned with myself that a ¼ J3 would fly well on a .90 two stroke or a .120 four stroke, this was the same amount of wing so allowing for more drag and higher weight the 30cc should be enough power.
A local modeller posted pictures of a Seagull Lysander that he test flew a week before and I contacted him to query what they had done and also what the aircraft flew like. They had not changed the incidence on the stab but had moved the C.G. 10mm behind the leading edge at the root of the wing. Flight performance was great and over powered with a twin cylinder 60cc motor. I got my aircraft to the airworthy stage so I could test fly to see for myself what the performance was like as the varied reports do cast doubts of the flying qualities and the fact that I have never seen a previous Lysander model in my 45+ years of modelling seemed to indicate that it would not be an easy flying aircraft. I balanced the model on my fingertips at around 10mm on the leading edge and did not change the incidence of the stab.
Sunday morning early I picked up my son and we went to the flying field and assembled the aircraft before there was even enough light to fly. Range check done with the motor running just to ensure all was good, final control checks done and time to see if it flies! Take off was brisk and climb out was brisk and quite a bit of up trim needed but all other controls were fine. I throttled back to less than a 1/3 throttle for some circuits but found it hard to slow down, the Lysander was too fast for scale even with low power. I let Byron fly it and he climbed and did a stall test and it just slows down to a ridiculously slow speed with no bad habits. Byron also had a problem slowing it down so we landed and changed the prop from a 20x8 Top Flight to a Master Airscrew 20x6. Next flight was a bit better speed wise and still plenty of power for climbs. Landing was a little fast as Byron complained that he ran out of up but had not given power to help and had not used flaps. I elected to take it home to ensure all was still good before flying again.
So, what am I changing? Nothing so far, I want to fly it a little more before I decided what is needed. I think landing with a little flap is a good idea as it is more lift and drag so you can have a little power to help the elevators. If we are honest and you want to design a great flying aircraft it will not look anything like a Lysander, high aspect ratio wings with lots of taper and a low aspect ratio tail plane with lots of taper are not what you would expect on an aircraft. As this is a scale model, that is what you have to have so the challenge of flying scale aircraft is flying it in a scale manner. Each aircraft will have its quirks and that is what I enjoy is learning to live with them and that would mean fly a Lysander slow and gentle. If you feel the need for speed build a Mustang or Spitfire but then do not expect them to fly slowly.
This is a great aircraft that I look forward to flying for many years and commend Seagull for producing such a great unusual aircraft, I love it!
Chris