*Seagull Westland Lysander*
12-20-2016, 10:34 AM
#77
My Feedback: (18)
As far as thrust lines go -- I simply used the right thrust offset that is burned into the firewall and a 1/8" spacer under the left stand offs to get what appears to be a perfect centering in the cowl. I did not add any down thrust. Whilst mine has not flown, but I don't think any down thrust is needed. Paul has some down thrust on his and that may be contributing the amount of up elevator he has to carry in flight. We are still testing all of this and I have been tardy in completing and flying mine...
12-20-2016, 10:40 AM
#78
My Feedback: (18)
The other recent mod I made to mine was to take 5mm off the top of the spats and to create a pocket for the strut mount. By default the spats jam into the fuse, and given the long wobbly motion of the gear will surely damage the fuse. My fuse is scored from the spats just riding around in the car...
They rattle now, so I need to put a dab of shoo-goo (E6000, Zap-Dap-a-Goo, etc) on the top lite ply mount to affix the spats to the gear leg.
They rattle now, so I need to put a dab of shoo-goo (E6000, Zap-Dap-a-Goo, etc) on the top lite ply mount to affix the spats to the gear leg.
Last edited by GalenB; 12-20-2016 at 11:17 AM.
12-20-2016, 11:21 AM
#80
My Feedback: (18)
Here is a better picture of my Saito installation. All that remains is to affix some tube guides and small holes in the cowl to reach the needles. I drilled and tapped the end of the high needle to accept a 3mm set screw. That allows the use of a 1.5mm ball driver to adjust - and that is a pretty small hole in the cowl. After build a cowl ring and not having any mounting holes in the cowl it is killing me to have to drill holes for the needle adjustment... 
I used 2.5" stand offs to get the thrust washer more clear of the cowl. I also needed the weight out front since I used real high torque servos in the tail... That was whole 'nother battle...
I used 2.5" stand offs to get the thrust washer more clear of the cowl. I also needed the weight out front since I used real high torque servos in the tail... That was whole 'nother battle...
Last edited by GalenB; 12-20-2016 at 11:24 AM.
12-20-2016, 11:57 AM
#81
Here is a better picture of my Saito installation. All that remains is to affix some tube guides and small holes in the cowl to reach the needles. I drilled and tapped the end of the high needle to accept a 3mm set screw. That allows the use of a 1.5mm ball driver to adjust - and that is a pretty small hole in the cowl. After build a cowl ring and not having any mounting holes in the cowl it is killing me to have to drill holes for the needle adjustment...
I used 2.5" stand offs to get the thrust washer more clear of the cowl. I also needed the weight out front since I used real high torque servos in the tail... That was whole 'nother battle...
I used 2.5" stand offs to get the thrust washer more clear of the cowl. I also needed the weight out front since I used real high torque servos in the tail... That was whole 'nother battle...
12-20-2016, 12:33 PM
#83
My Feedback: (18)
Since the engine is tightly baffled there is very little inlet area. There is almost no gap around the baffler plate so nearly all of the inlet air has to pass through the cylinder cooling fins... I figure the outlet I have in the bottom of the cowl is more than 3X the inlet area...
The cowl fits tightly to the fuse so no air will escape around that joint. A little may pass through and over the firewall into the fuse, but with the tailwheel cover plate in place there is little exit are there...
The cowl fits tightly to the fuse so no air will escape around that joint. A little may pass through and over the firewall into the fuse, but with the tailwheel cover plate in place there is little exit are there...
12-26-2016, 05:33 AM
#84
My Feedback: (15)
Fly, I am awaiting the arrival of the 75" Version from Phoenix models. While waiting I have purchased the Hayes publication on the model and a Matchbox plastic model with great details.
The 75" verion is much smaller but if interested I will take pics of the side panel from the Hayes and some drawings I am making up from the matchbox 1/32 scale kit.
THis plane is by far the most difficult plane to find great simple shots of front and side interior pics that are useable for RC referance.
You guys are lucky with the larger formatted plane , the smaller silver version is truely an ugly duck with tons of work required to achive any scale equity lol .
The landing gear has to be virtually scratch build as well as adding flaps ect.
On another note if anyone is interested in pilots I aquired two in error 1/5 scale light weight full body pilots. I can post pic and measurments if interteested, they are simply too large for any appliaction that I will have in my future.
The 75" verion is much smaller but if interested I will take pics of the side panel from the Hayes and some drawings I am making up from the matchbox 1/32 scale kit.
THis plane is by far the most difficult plane to find great simple shots of front and side interior pics that are useable for RC referance.
You guys are lucky with the larger formatted plane , the smaller silver version is truely an ugly duck with tons of work required to achive any scale equity lol .
The landing gear has to be virtually scratch build as well as adding flaps ect.
On another note if anyone is interested in pilots I aquired two in error 1/5 scale light weight full body pilots. I can post pic and measurments if interteested, they are simply too large for any appliaction that I will have in my future.
12-27-2016, 06:13 AM
#85
Mounted my Saito close to the Firewall so I can shorten the cowl to a more scale appearance.
I found my "Sailor" Malan 1/5th scale figure from Lyle Vasser @ Best Pilots and am modifying the cockpit module for a more realistic seat & Instrument Panel. My ideal would be to have the cockpit open as they did on those warm Mediterranean days in 1942.
I'm using my Matchbox kit for reference. I have a scale book on order but let's see what Amazon can do. No drones yet. . . .
I found my "Sailor" Malan 1/5th scale figure from Lyle Vasser @ Best Pilots and am modifying the cockpit module for a more realistic seat & Instrument Panel. My ideal would be to have the cockpit open as they did on those warm Mediterranean days in 1942.
I'm using my Matchbox kit for reference. I have a scale book on order but let's see what Amazon can do. No drones yet. . . .
Last edited by Fly2XS; 12-27-2016 at 06:18 AM.
01-17-2017, 06:16 PM
#91
My Feedback: (1)
LDM, I also have a 75" Phoenix Lysander on order from Tower. When I ordered it in Dec. delivery was estimated as "mid Jan." and now it has changed to "late Feb.". Don't be looking for "big brown" to be dropping off a large box anytime soon. Oh well, more time to follow this thread and learn more about this interesting WWII plane. Thought you might want to know.
01-18-2017, 02:52 AM
#92
My Feedback: (15)
Thanks Larry, but I was shipped yesterday. My order was placed late October so I was part of the first wave.
Been following Scotts excellent build. We will have a lot more work to do in order to make the plane a respectable version of the Lizey. I have gear pants ordered from Trappet as part of the mods and as soon as I can determine the internal proper scale will be scratch building an interior and adding flaps.
Been following Scotts excellent build. We will have a lot more work to do in order to make the plane a respectable version of the Lizey. I have gear pants ordered from Trappet as part of the mods and as soon as I can determine the internal proper scale will be scratch building an interior and adding flaps.
01-18-2017, 05:43 AM
#93
Galen,
A true scale builder buddy (Larry Sorenson) sent me the following images from another thread where they used Williams Brothers 1/6th scale cylinders on the baffle to make up the dummy engine around the FG60-R3! It's not quite as nice as Paul's work but it will dress up the Saito!
I've ordered (6) cylinders for myself so they're here when I get to the cowling.
It would be easy enough to paint them and weather them using Lyle Vaser's techniques to really add some character to this ARF bash!
Scott
A true scale builder buddy (Larry Sorenson) sent me the following images from another thread where they used Williams Brothers 1/6th scale cylinders on the baffle to make up the dummy engine around the FG60-R3! It's not quite as nice as Paul's work but it will dress up the Saito!
I've ordered (6) cylinders for myself so they're here when I get to the cowling.
It would be easy enough to paint them and weather them using Lyle Vaser's techniques to really add some character to this ARF bash!
Scott
As far as thrust lines go -- I simply used the right thrust offset that is burned into the firewall and a 1/8" spacer under the left stand offs to get what appears to be a perfect centering in the cowl. I did not add any down thrust. Whilst mine has not flown, but I don't think any down thrust is needed. Paul has some down thrust on his and that may be contributing the amount of up elevator he has to carry in flight. We are still testing all of this and I have been tardy in completing and flying mine...
Last edited by Fly2XS; 01-18-2017 at 05:49 AM.
01-18-2017, 10:16 AM
#94
My Feedback: (18)
Galen,
A true scale builder buddy (Larry Sorenson) sent me the following images from another thread where they used Williams Brothers 1/6th scale cylinders on the baffle to make up the dummy engine around the FG60-R3! It's not quite as nice as Paul's work but it will dress up the Saito!
I've ordered (6) cylinders for myself so they're here when I get to the cowling.
It would be easy enough to paint them and weather them using Lyle Vaser's techniques to really add some character to this ARF bash!
Scott
A true scale builder buddy (Larry Sorenson) sent me the following images from another thread where they used Williams Brothers 1/6th scale cylinders on the baffle to make up the dummy engine around the FG60-R3! It's not quite as nice as Paul's work but it will dress up the Saito!
I've ordered (6) cylinders for myself so they're here when I get to the cowling.
It would be easy enough to paint them and weather them using Lyle Vaser's techniques to really add some character to this ARF bash!
Scott
01-23-2017, 06:10 AM
#99
After hearing about the CG being off and the plane flying nose heavy, I decided to put the DS821's in the stab. The DS821's have 88 in-oz torque at 6v so I don't expect them to be strained.
I did use the HITEC HS225 for the rudder as Paul did.
It took a little work with the Dremel to open up the pockets but they work well. The 36" leads down the fuselage for the (2) elevator servos and rudder servo are bundled in cable wrap to minimize clutter.
I should be able to access the connection through the tail wheel panel to remove the stabs for transport.
No work done on the cockpits or the dummy engine yet. Still wait for parts.
I did get my Browning .303's from IFlyTallies this weekend but I'm not sure what parts are the guns and what parts are the 3D print base. Has anyone built these before? I could use some guidance before I start cutting them up.
Thanks!
Scott
I did use the HITEC HS225 for the rudder as Paul did.
It took a little work with the Dremel to open up the pockets but they work well. The 36" leads down the fuselage for the (2) elevator servos and rudder servo are bundled in cable wrap to minimize clutter.
I should be able to access the connection through the tail wheel panel to remove the stabs for transport.
No work done on the cockpits or the dummy engine yet. Still wait for parts.
I did get my Browning .303's from IFlyTallies this weekend but I'm not sure what parts are the guns and what parts are the 3D print base. Has anyone built these before? I could use some guidance before I start cutting them up.
Thanks!
Scott
Last edited by Fly2XS; 01-23-2017 at 06:19 AM.