*Seagull Westland Lysander*
01-25-2017, 02:08 PM
#101
Made some progress. The setup for the elevators, rudder, flaps and ailerons is done. The engine mounted, the cowl reduced by 2-1/4" in length.
Now to run the extensions up to the wing through the greenhouse, set up the throttle and ignition kill then mount the tail wheel servo and the receiver.
I'm replacing the factory gear with stronger replacements from TnT Landing Gear (in process)
The pilots look great in it! I won't dress it up until later.
Now to run the extensions up to the wing through the greenhouse, set up the throttle and ignition kill then mount the tail wheel servo and the receiver.
I'm replacing the factory gear with stronger replacements from TnT Landing Gear (in process)
The pilots look great in it! I won't dress it up until later.
01-29-2017, 09:08 AM
#102
Senior Member
My Feedback: (25)
OK, I have this airplane and I am in the final stages of assembly. It seems to me, after reading this and other threads on this airplane that the correct CG is all over the place! some say 1" further back than the manual calls for. Others say 2" back. Has anyone DEFINITELY found the CORRECT CG for the Seagul Lysander? I'm getting nervous. Haha.
02-13-2017, 08:36 AM
#104
I just received my iflytallies pair of Browning 0.303 machine guns for the back seat. Does anyone have images detailing the gun mounts?
Any recommendations for painting and weathering 1/5th scale machine guns?
Thanks!
I did find a site with terrific images of a pair of Browning .303's with flash guards.
http://jamesdjulia.com/item/1039-369/
http://jamesdjulia.com/wp-content/up.../lrg/51685.jpg
Any recommendations for painting and weathering 1/5th scale machine guns?
Thanks!
I did find a site with terrific images of a pair of Browning .303's with flash guards.
http://jamesdjulia.com/item/1039-369/
http://jamesdjulia.com/wp-content/up.../lrg/51685.jpg
Last edited by Fly2XS; 02-19-2017 at 01:25 PM.
02-23-2017, 04:10 AM
#105
Paul, Galen & All,
I spoke with Tom (@TnT Landing Gear) and he's asking if we want a slot or a hole for the axle. He can do either.
He would not drill the smaller mounting holes (the fuse mounts or the pant holes).
He's looking at 3/16" thick material which will be much stiffer.
The gear can be made with a ONE PIECE design (this would require a modification to the bottom of the fuselage). Unfortunately, a ONE PIECE design would not allow them to bent the arches into the legs like the originals.
The gear can be made with a TWO PIECE design (NO modification to the bottom of the fuselage). A TWO PIECE design WILL allow them to bent the arches into the legs like the originals.
My thought is he could supply it as an axle hole and if we want a slot, we can cut it out using a Drexel cut-off wheel.
We need your input!
1. Would you prefer a One Piece or a Two Piece (similar to original) design?
2. Would you prefer a hole for the axle, or a slot?
Post your feedback ASAP!
Scott
I spoke with Tom (@TnT Landing Gear) and he's asking if we want a slot or a hole for the axle. He can do either.
He would not drill the smaller mounting holes (the fuse mounts or the pant holes).
He's looking at 3/16" thick material which will be much stiffer.
The gear can be made with a ONE PIECE design (this would require a modification to the bottom of the fuselage). Unfortunately, a ONE PIECE design would not allow them to bent the arches into the legs like the originals.
The gear can be made with a TWO PIECE design (NO modification to the bottom of the fuselage). A TWO PIECE design WILL allow them to bent the arches into the legs like the originals.
My thought is he could supply it as an axle hole and if we want a slot, we can cut it out using a Drexel cut-off wheel.
We need your input!
1. Would you prefer a One Piece or a Two Piece (similar to original) design?
2. Would you prefer a hole for the axle, or a slot?
Post your feedback ASAP!
Scott
02-23-2017, 01:00 PM
#106
My Feedback: (18)
Hi Scott,
My preference is for a two piece carbon replacement since a "drop in" replacement is easier with no need to mod the fuse. I would also like the axle slot, and through holes -- if possible, but not a deal breaker since marking the holes in situ will not be that bad...
The current gear is too soft not because it is in two pieces, but because the material is not stiff enough. All of the flexing happens at the first bend as it exits the fuse slot. If the aluminum was stiffer/stronger then we would not be having this discussion...
The benefit of a one piece gear is that all side loads are transmitted through the fuse mounting via all four 4mm bolts. In the stock two piece gear the side loads are isolated from the left and right; and handled by two 4mm bolts. In my installation I made an aluminum plate that sandwiches the two gear legs using all four bolts. That should provide the same load transferring quality of a one piece gear, and no fuse mods needed...
My preference is for a two piece carbon replacement since a "drop in" replacement is easier with no need to mod the fuse. I would also like the axle slot, and through holes -- if possible, but not a deal breaker since marking the holes in situ will not be that bad...
The current gear is too soft not because it is in two pieces, but because the material is not stiff enough. All of the flexing happens at the first bend as it exits the fuse slot. If the aluminum was stiffer/stronger then we would not be having this discussion...
The benefit of a one piece gear is that all side loads are transmitted through the fuse mounting via all four 4mm bolts. In the stock two piece gear the side loads are isolated from the left and right; and handled by two 4mm bolts. In my installation I made an aluminum plate that sandwiches the two gear legs using all four bolts. That should provide the same load transferring quality of a one piece gear, and no fuse mods needed...
<need a face palm emoticon...> I will call and see if I can still order a set -- but I will likely have to wait for enough demand to justify making another production run... 
03-22-2017, 12:11 PM
#110
03-23-2017, 01:17 PM
#112
I'll work on drilling this weekend.
We may need to talk about a TnT Lysander aluminum stub-wing that could be mounted to the gear at the scale location!
Thanks!
Scott
03-24-2017, 08:04 PM
#117
Paul,
I've just mounted the new TNT Landing Gear on my Lizzie and I'm excited about the possibilities!
I match drilled the mounting holes first, then fed the leg through the FG spat until the axle hole was high enough to fit the wheel with the axle mounted into it, then mounted the axle into the spat.
I then match drilled and tapped the gear for the wheel pant screws.
It looks great!
I substituted 6" Robart wheels in place of the 5" plastic wheels. They look better, but not as good as a scale 7" wheel would look.
I had to cut some 1/4" od brass tubing to bush the 5mm dia axles.
The real benefit of the new gear is that it mounts flat against the inside surface of the pant so we can move the pant screws from next to the axle to up clear of the wheel. This makes it possible to cut out around the wheel for the open wheel pant look!
I have a design for a simple mounting for scale stub wings with universal mounting!!
Scott
I've just mounted the new TNT Landing Gear on my Lizzie and I'm excited about the possibilities!
I match drilled the mounting holes first, then fed the leg through the FG spat until the axle hole was high enough to fit the wheel with the axle mounted into it, then mounted the axle into the spat.
I then match drilled and tapped the gear for the wheel pant screws.
It looks great!
I substituted 6" Robart wheels in place of the 5" plastic wheels. They look better, but not as good as a scale 7" wheel would look.
I had to cut some 1/4" od brass tubing to bush the 5mm dia axles.
The real benefit of the new gear is that it mounts flat against the inside surface of the pant so we can move the pant screws from next to the axle to up clear of the wheel. This makes it possible to cut out around the wheel for the open wheel pant look!
I have a design for a simple mounting for scale stub wings with universal mounting!!
Scott
03-27-2017, 01:22 PM
#118
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 52
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This is to Thamaroj
I like the landing gear lights could you tell us more about them how you put them in what kind of Lights they look awesome thanks Tom
PS I am still waiting to get my plane from Sig maybe the end of April it'll be coming in
I like the landing gear lights could you tell us more about them how you put them in what kind of Lights they look awesome thanks Tom
PS I am still waiting to get my plane from Sig maybe the end of April it'll be coming in
03-28-2017, 09:28 AM
#120
My Feedback: (18)
You might get lucky and find they have one in stock -- as I did when ordering a Vans RV-8 canopy...
There is also some talk about getting a new, more scale, canopy made by an enthusiast of this model... Watch this thread -- if that ever happens it will be announced here... (This is why I attached my canopy with screws...
)
03-28-2017, 09:38 AM
#121
I'm looking forward to seeing what the team in the great northwest have developed for a canopy as I'd like to order one myself!
In the meantime, the sides (under the wing) are flat panels, the rear cockpit is a flat wrap. and the sides of the cockpit are flat as is the center windshield. If the NW molding project does not pan out, then I'm thinking of building mine up out of styrene strips and clear sheet!
03-28-2017, 11:49 AM
#123
I asked my Local Hobby Shop to contact Becky @ SIG (the USA Distributor) and order a spare canopy based on the part numbers in the Lysander Manual.
I normally would call Becky directly (you can find the number on the SIG web site) and order but I thought I'd save on shipping as my LHS is getting weekly shipments from SIG.
Scott
I normally would call Becky directly (you can find the number on the SIG web site) and order but I thought I'd save on shipping as my LHS is getting weekly shipments from SIG.
Scott