Jeff Micko Hellcat
07-24-2016, 01:27 PM
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Jeff Micko Hellcat
Over the weekend I picked up my Micko Hellcat. It will be powered by a Moki 150-180.
Quality of work is outstanding and the value was amazing compared to what I got for my Ziroli glass fuse. I must say that this was a very good value for dollar. It is my understanding that the prices will be going up but even if a couple hundred dollars more for this "kit" I would buy it again.
Panel lines and panels are built in fuse as well as the stabilizer and center wing section. I will be doing a build thread on it but not sure where yet but in the meantime here are some pictures.
Few things I need to sort out still are:
Rivets
electric retracts (I hate air so they are NOT an option)
cockpit kit
canopy rails
scheme is pretty much settled already but not locked in
Moki Baffle. Although I had it built for a Moki It will depend on how I can "hide" the baffle. If I can not get it to look right I would rather switch to another engine and use a dummy radial.
Any suggestions are always welcome
Quality of work is outstanding and the value was amazing compared to what I got for my Ziroli glass fuse. I must say that this was a very good value for dollar. It is my understanding that the prices will be going up but even if a couple hundred dollars more for this "kit" I would buy it again.
Panel lines and panels are built in fuse as well as the stabilizer and center wing section. I will be doing a build thread on it but not sure where yet but in the meantime here are some pictures.
Few things I need to sort out still are:
Rivets
electric retracts (I hate air so they are NOT an option)
cockpit kit
canopy rails
scheme is pretty much settled already but not locked in
Moki Baffle. Although I had it built for a Moki It will depend on how I can "hide" the baffle. If I can not get it to look right I would rather switch to another engine and use a dummy radial.
Any suggestions are always welcome
07-25-2016, 03:45 AM
#4
I got the same kit from Jeff about 2 months ago; I couldn't agree with you more on the craftsmanship on this bird.
I haven't started mine yet not sure when I will get it into the build que.
I have a DA100 I plan on putting in mine.
I'll be watching your build.
I haven't started mine yet not sure when I will get it into the build que.
I have a DA100 I plan on putting in mine.
I'll be watching your build.
07-26-2016, 03:49 PM
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Tried calling, MN # not working. Do you have any P-47 stuff? Hard points, wing pylons, center tank??? Thanks.
07-27-2016, 06:13 AM
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Hey Big Fred.
No, I left the Gopher State over a year ago, but I returned your email back on July 20, when I mentioned the only accessories I have for my Jug would be the 108-gallon paper-impregnated early drop tank, and a scale Curtis Electric prop and hub. Sorry.
Jeff
No, I left the Gopher State over a year ago, but I returned your email back on July 20, when I mentioned the only accessories I have for my Jug would be the 108-gallon paper-impregnated early drop tank, and a scale Curtis Electric prop and hub. Sorry.
Jeff
07-29-2016, 04:08 PM
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Maddog,
Have you sent your file to a kit cutter for the wing yet?
I just got my wing prints back from Kinkos. Verify the size with the scale on the sides of the prints but be careful because on the left wing the measurement jumps from 10"-12". Someone forgot the number "11"
oops.. lol. They were just about to burn me another copy before I caught the error.
Have you sent your file to a kit cutter for the wing yet?
I just got my wing prints back from Kinkos. Verify the size with the scale on the sides of the prints but be careful because on the left wing the measurement jumps from 10"-12". Someone forgot the number "11"
oops.. lol. They were just about to burn me another copy before I caught the error.
07-30-2016, 05:10 PM
#12
Over the weekend I picked up my Micko Hellcat. It will be powered by a Moki 150-180.
Quality of work is outstanding and the value was amazing compared to what I got for my Ziroli glass fuse. I must say that this was a very good value for dollar. It is my understanding that the prices will be going up but even if a couple hundred dollars more for this "kit" I would buy it again.
Panel lines and panels are built in fuse as well as the stabilizer and center wing section. I will be doing a build thread on it but not sure where yet but in the meantime here are some pictures.
Few things I need to sort out still are:
Rivets
electric retracts (I hate air so they are NOT an option)
cockpit kit
canopy rails
scheme is pretty much settled already but not locked in
Moki Baffle. Although I had it built for a Moki It will depend on how I can "hide" the baffle. If I can not get it to look right I would rather switch to another engine and use a dummy radial.
Any suggestions are always welcome
Quality of work is outstanding and the value was amazing compared to what I got for my Ziroli glass fuse. I must say that this was a very good value for dollar. It is my understanding that the prices will be going up but even if a couple hundred dollars more for this "kit" I would buy it again.
Panel lines and panels are built in fuse as well as the stabilizer and center wing section. I will be doing a build thread on it but not sure where yet but in the meantime here are some pictures.
Few things I need to sort out still are:
Rivets
electric retracts (I hate air so they are NOT an option)
cockpit kit
canopy rails
scheme is pretty much settled already but not locked in
Moki Baffle. Although I had it built for a Moki It will depend on how I can "hide" the baffle. If I can not get it to look right I would rather switch to another engine and use a dummy radial.
Any suggestions are always welcome
08-01-2016, 08:41 AM
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Hi Tim,
The kit as shown is $1,295. I do also have available detailed fiberglass wing skins, top and bottom, for the built-up outboard wing panels for $200, if one would choose to substitute the called-for 1/8 balsa sheet with f/g skins.
.
Jeff
The kit as shown is $1,295. I do also have available detailed fiberglass wing skins, top and bottom, for the built-up outboard wing panels for $200, if one would choose to substitute the called-for 1/8 balsa sheet with f/g skins.
.
Jeff
08-01-2016, 02:36 PM
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maddog, must be nice!
Jeff, I'm curious how the outer skin feels when built with glass skin panels. Any extra precautions we have to worry about? I have built planes with foam core wings and they are solid as a rock, and balsa sheeting is fairly solid, more so when glassed but how do the wings feel with the glass wing skin? Any tips or pictures to share?
Thanks!!
Jeff, I'm curious how the outer skin feels when built with glass skin panels. Any extra precautions we have to worry about? I have built planes with foam core wings and they are solid as a rock, and balsa sheeting is fairly solid, more so when glassed but how do the wings feel with the glass wing skin? Any tips or pictures to share?
Thanks!!
08-02-2016, 09:08 AM
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Aron, think of the skins as you would their brother balsa...you build the outer panels like you would any ordinary balsa wing, and instead of balsa sheeting, you use the already-detailed f/g skins. The wing is very strong! One thing I might comment on are the cap strips on the ribs. If one is building the all-balsa outboard panels, the ribs' outlines are correct for the 1/8 balsa sheeting. But using the f/g skins, because they are thinner, the cap strips perform two functions: They replace the 'missing' area of rib due to the thinner material of the f/g, but as important, they offer a larger surface area to glue the skins to. Because I'm just an old dinosaur, I'm still using an ester-based resin (used to be good-old polyester, now it's vinyl ester, much better) and the best adhesive I've found for any ester-based resin is the ester-based resin! Which is why I prefer to send out my kits with the formers all glassed in with cloth strips. I have found that Hysol (9462 is it?) works well too, but cleaning the area with alcohol is a good thing to do.
Sir Henry, I always lay down a gel coat to help fill the detail, and then follow with one layer of 3 oz. cloth, and one layer of 9 oz. cloth. On the wing center section, where the landing gear reside, I also include a layer of 6 oz. carbon fiber to give it that stiffer/stronger base for the gear. The rudder and horizontal stab are only two layers of 3 oz. cloth to help keep the weight down.
Jeff
Sir Henry, I always lay down a gel coat to help fill the detail, and then follow with one layer of 3 oz. cloth, and one layer of 9 oz. cloth. On the wing center section, where the landing gear reside, I also include a layer of 6 oz. carbon fiber to give it that stiffer/stronger base for the gear. The rudder and horizontal stab are only two layers of 3 oz. cloth to help keep the weight down.
Jeff
08-02-2016, 08:32 PM
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Good point on the cap strips Jeff!
Thank you as well for the mod tips from the 5 version to the 3 version...gotta have my Sharp Teeth!
Thank you as well for the mod tips from the 5 version to the 3 version...gotta have my Sharp Teeth!
Last edited by AC2; 08-02-2016 at 08:36 PM.
08-12-2016, 11:48 AM
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08-13-2016, 05:03 PM
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9.75 from firewall to front of cowl.
because the cowl is oblong the dimension from the prop shaft to the plugs (widest dim on DA100) would have to be known.
At 2.5" away from front of cowl you have 12" vertical width but prop shaft will not center in front of cowl. the furthur back you go towards the firewall it gets wider. to keep the prop shaft in center of front cowl you need appx 4.5 to have 12" of vertical usable space
At 6" you have 12 dia so you can orientate the engine anyway you want but at 4.5 the engine would have to mount with cylinders top and bottom (vertical) not horizontal.
Hope this helps so..maybe Jeff can chime in if he has had one ordered to fit that engine.
I plan on using a Moki so at 10" DIA I have no issues at all.
because the cowl is oblong the dimension from the prop shaft to the plugs (widest dim on DA100) would have to be known.
At 2.5" away from front of cowl you have 12" vertical width but prop shaft will not center in front of cowl. the furthur back you go towards the firewall it gets wider. to keep the prop shaft in center of front cowl you need appx 4.5 to have 12" of vertical usable space
At 6" you have 12 dia so you can orientate the engine anyway you want but at 4.5 the engine would have to mount with cylinders top and bottom (vertical) not horizontal.
Hope this helps so..maybe Jeff can chime in if he has had one ordered to fit that engine.
I plan on using a Moki so at 10" DIA I have no issues at all.
08-13-2016, 05:16 PM
#24
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Jeff,
Can you give me some info on this kit?
What is included in the full composite version? Does it include composite outboard panels?
Does someone cut the short kit out?
Can you get just a wood kit for the outboard wings?
What landing gear will work with this plane?
Do you have an estimated shipping cost to 33024?
Sorry for all the questions just want to make sure I am understanding completely.
Can you give me some info on this kit?
What is included in the full composite version? Does it include composite outboard panels?
Does someone cut the short kit out?
Can you get just a wood kit for the outboard wings?
What landing gear will work with this plane?
Do you have an estimated shipping cost to 33024?
Sorry for all the questions just want to make sure I am understanding completely.
08-13-2016, 05:27 PM
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SHOW,
I cannot find the DA 100 dims...but on the DA120 at 3.5" you have 11.85".......a little too big...the 100 just might fit
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/08...73435843125876
update:
found DA 100 dims....the DA 100 at 4 inches is 11.5" looks like it will fit but will be tight.
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/08...73435843125876
I cannot find the DA 100 dims...but on the DA120 at 3.5" you have 11.85".......a little too big...the 100 just might fit
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/08...73435843125876
update:
found DA 100 dims....the DA 100 at 4 inches is 11.5" looks like it will fit but will be tight.
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/08...73435843125876
