NEW Legend Models 79.5" F8F Bearcat!
08-15-2016, 09:01 AM
#29
A little gap to fill after the horizontal is installed.
DLE35RA fits in the cowl no problem!
I did have to trim the firewall a touch to clear the muffler. I also screwed and glued the firewall for peace of mind.
Fake exhaust stacks in place
Tailwheel in place
Rudder linkage in place
DLE35RA fits in the cowl no problem!
I did have to trim the firewall a touch to clear the muffler. I also screwed and glued the firewall for peace of mind.
Fake exhaust stacks in place
Tailwheel in place
Rudder linkage in place
08-15-2016, 09:04 AM
#30
Rudder and elevators hinged and ready to be pinned.
Shot in the fuse.
I went with a simple z bend at the servo, one less part to worry about and has no slop at all.
How the aileron and flap servos mount, I did have to remove and reglue the blocks to get my elevators centered on the cutout, check yours first, my servos were a little wider than a standard. I went with high torque servos, I believe they are up around 180oz, overkill, but thats ok.
Ailerons and Flaps drilled and pinned for added safety.
Mock up shot before I had the elevators glued on, doesnt it look awesome!
Shot in the fuse.
I went with a simple z bend at the servo, one less part to worry about and has no slop at all.
How the aileron and flap servos mount, I did have to remove and reglue the blocks to get my elevators centered on the cutout, check yours first, my servos were a little wider than a standard. I went with high torque servos, I believe they are up around 180oz, overkill, but thats ok.
Ailerons and Flaps drilled and pinned for added safety.
Mock up shot before I had the elevators glued on, doesnt it look awesome!
08-15-2016, 11:42 AM
#33
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You'll most likely end up pulling the servo mounts off the covers and moving them to fit your servos. Mine were too narrow and mounted too low from the factory. I trust my 2-part epoxy more than I do the factory glue anyway.
For most ARFs I don't bother with the supplied hardware - I go with new pushrods, clevises, e-z connects, and control horns from my LHS. $20 for known good hardware is cheap insurance!
For most ARFs I don't bother with the supplied hardware - I go with new pushrods, clevises, e-z connects, and control horns from my LHS. $20 for known good hardware is cheap insurance!
Last edited by justbuyit; 08-15-2016 at 11:47 AM.
08-15-2016, 11:51 AM
#34
I thought about that, but after radio setup I think Ill just solder them in place
Good idea; I assumed you used the supplied metric hardware.
add glue to the servo tray? Elaborate? I thought about a screw through the tray, but there really isnt any room since the servo screws go through the block.
Good idea; I assumed you used the supplied metric hardware.
add glue to the servo tray? Elaborate? I thought about a screw through the tray, but there really isnt any room since the servo screws go through the block.
Jerry
08-16-2016, 07:36 PM
#45
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You'll most likely end up pulling the servo mounts off the covers and moving them to fit your servos. Mine were too narrow and mounted too low from the factory. I trust my 2-part epoxy more than I do the factory glue anyway.
For most ARFs I don't bother with the supplied hardware - I go with new pushrods, clevises, e-z connects, and control horns from my LHS. $20 for known good hardware is cheap insurance!
For most ARFs I don't bother with the supplied hardware - I go with new pushrods, clevises, e-z connects, and control horns from my LHS. $20 for known good hardware is cheap insurance!
What size are you replacing the hardware with, 2-56 or 4-40? I see that the supplied push rods bend very easy
08-17-2016, 07:46 AM
#46
Painted the white control horns, had trouble finding perfect matched color, but found a satin color yesterday thats close enough, better than white!
Tails pretty much done, the rudder has some slop from the linkage so I think I need to build a support for the rudder control rod where it makes the bend.
Had to go to the fair last night, didnt get as much as I wanted to done
Tails pretty much done, the rudder has some slop from the linkage so I think I need to build a support for the rudder control rod where it makes the bend.
Had to go to the fair last night, didnt get as much as I wanted to done
08-17-2016, 09:43 AM
#47
My Feedback: (3)
Cut it to length, leaving about 1" or so on either end for adjustment and apply a small dab of epoxy to hold the tube in place.
Works OK, not as good as just buying turnbuckles, but better than stock.
08-17-2016, 01:29 PM
#48
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looks great. dumb question. where are they getting 8-9 channels from?
1. throttle
2. rudder
3. elevator
4. alerons
5. flaps
6. retracts
7. inner gear doors
8. Choke? bomb? something not necessary?
what am i missing? i ask because i only have a 7 channel and am either having a brain fart or i missed something?
1. throttle
2. rudder
3. elevator
4. alerons
5. flaps
6. retracts
7. inner gear doors
8. Choke? bomb? something not necessary?
what am i missing? i ask because i only have a 7 channel and am either having a brain fart or i missed something?