CY Model Lavochkin LA-7
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husafreak (05-29-2020)
The following users liked this post:
husafreak (05-29-2020)
The following users liked this post:
husafreak (05-29-2020)
09-08-2019, 12:03 PM
#55
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Las Vegas, NV
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racer-mech.
I have built the Dave Anderson design LA 7 his plan had the gear in the scale location and used Sierra retacts they were also pretty close in scale. Installed them with no modifications and not have had any problems with nose overs. Powered with a DA 100 had to put 4.25 lbs up front for balance..
I have built the Dave Anderson design LA 7 his plan had the gear in the scale location and used Sierra retacts they were also pretty close in scale. Installed them with no modifications and not have had any problems with nose overs. Powered with a DA 100 had to put 4.25 lbs up front for balance..
Patrick, I appreciate your reply and have seen the awesome Dave Anderson LA-7, I however, have the CY models ARF. I've just got around to assembling it, and before I complete it, I'd rather change/alter/modify so that I don't have to repair a broken ship later. I was unclear on the mods/repairs that a couple of people have done on here. That being whether their mod/repair was done for aesthetics, or out of necessity for stopping nose overs.
Btw, you had to add 4.25lbs using a da 100!!??? Wow, I was planning on making mine a electric, so I guess I'll start looking for rocks and bricks to epoxy in the nose.
Last edited by racer-mech; 09-08-2019 at 12:41 PM. Reason: Added comment
09-08-2019, 02:26 PM
#56
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yes, I have read the entire thread twice. Just seems to me that if you want a scale bird build it. Trying to scale a out of scale arf doesn't seem worth it. Just my opinion of course.
09-08-2019, 02:31 PM
#57
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Patrick, I appreciate your reply and have seen the awesome Dave Anderson LA-7, I however, have the CY models ARF. I've just got around to assembling it, and before I complete it, I'd rather change/alter/modify so that I don't have to repair a broken ship later. I was unclear on the mods/repairs that a couple of people have done on here. That being whether their mod/repair was done for aesthetics, or out of necessity for stopping nose overs.
Btw, you had to add 4.25lbs using a da 100!!??? Wow, I was planning on making mine a electric, so I guess I'll start looking for rocks and bricks to epoxy in the nose.
Btw, you had to add 4.25lbs using a da 100!!??? Wow, I was planning on making mine a electric, so I guess I'll start looking for rocks and bricks to epoxy in the nose.
09-10-2019, 05:55 AM
#59
Join Date: Jul 2006
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Has anyone else had nose over issues or other shortcomings with the CY LA-7? Issues that I can address before completing assembly?
Patrick, I'm already starting to look into pulling servo out of tail and relocating for lighter cg purposes. Definitely helpful if I do electric, but even I do gas, because I'll be using a dle 111.
Patrick, I'm already starting to look into pulling servo out of tail and relocating for lighter cg purposes. Definitely helpful if I do electric, but even I do gas, because I'll be using a dle 111.
12-21-2019, 10:54 AM
#61
So my answer, glue it if you don't use the stock servo location. Even if you don't glue it, don't take it apart for transport. Multiple screw-unscrew could make it loosen up.
05-29-2020, 07:41 AM
#62
I'm building mine now, hinging and servos are in. I really wanted to avoid relocating the gear but with a Moki 180 and beautiful three blade SEP prop up front a nose over on asphalt would probably be a disaster. I don't know how tough those Moki's are and the props are expensive and hard to get...
The main gear on mine looks fine, the actuators and struts look OK, if a little on the small side. So maybe I can use these with 6" tires relocated. It appears that Century Jet is out of business or waiting for new owner, so that tailwheel assembly is not available. I do know from my research that the LA-7's flew regularly with tailwheels hanging out and doors missing due to mechanical failures and parts shortages. I have no problem with it left hanging. But not the kit contents.
I guess I'd like to know from you that have built this plane and if you had to do it again what gear would you put in?
The main gear on mine looks fine, the actuators and struts look OK, if a little on the small side. So maybe I can use these with 6" tires relocated. It appears that Century Jet is out of business or waiting for new owner, so that tailwheel assembly is not available. I do know from my research that the LA-7's flew regularly with tailwheels hanging out and doors missing due to mechanical failures and parts shortages. I have no problem with it left hanging. But not the kit contents.
I guess I'd like to know from you that have built this plane and if you had to do it again what gear would you put in?
05-29-2020, 08:14 AM
#63
I had Century Jet mains, but they were junk. I ended up with Sierra gear and have had no more problems. It's a lot of work to get them mounted though. I had a Century Jet tailwheel, but that was problematic. I modified it into a fixed tailwheel.
I like the setup I have now, just wish Century Jet was out of business earlier so I wouldn't have wasted a bunch of money.
I like the setup I have now, just wish Century Jet was out of business earlier so I wouldn't have wasted a bunch of money.
05-29-2020, 09:06 AM
#64
Thanks for the reply. I just got off the phone with Darrell at Sierra and after talking a bit I took a deep breath and decided to bite the bullet. I ordered his gear, 6" tires, and a fixed tailwheel set up. The fixed tailwheel is the stirrup type with pull/pull steering. I'll copy your cover mod. The stock gear just looks too light. Compared directly to the Sierra gear on my FW-190 (93") it is a joke. I guess I knew it wasn't right and we all know gear problems can ruin a nice plane. Why go to all this trouble and sabotage it with bad gear /geometry.
I feel your pain though! The company that made my CARF Hawk jet has gone out of business and that guy actually stole money from me on his way out
Do you remember which spinner you used? Kind of same question again, what spinner would you recommend? Maybe a Tru-Turn 5" or 5 1/2" P-51 spinner? Top R/C has a Spitfire spinner that is a perfect shape but only 4 1/4" so maybe too small. Their P-51 spinner is 5 3/4".
I feel your pain though! The company that made my CARF Hawk jet has gone out of business and that guy actually stole money from me on his way out
Do you remember which spinner you used? Kind of same question again, what spinner would you recommend? Maybe a Tru-Turn 5" or 5 1/2" P-51 spinner? Top R/C has a Spitfire spinner that is a perfect shape but only 4 1/4" so maybe too small. Their P-51 spinner is 5 3/4".
05-29-2020, 09:31 AM
#65
I used the Spitfire spinner from the Top Flite Spitfire for the two-blade. I have a more scale like spinner that I run on the three blade that came from Gene Barton (made for the Anderson LA-7). I used a few Anderson parts. I got an Anderson Canopy that is much more scale, and I used an Anderson scoop.
6" wheels might be scale, but you could have some trouble fitting those on. I think I had to go a bit smaller (5.25" I think). If the wheels use Robart tires they will fit 5" - 6" tires.
6" wheels might be scale, but you could have some trouble fitting those on. I think I had to go a bit smaller (5.25" I think). If the wheels use Robart tires they will fit 5" - 6" tires.
05-29-2020, 12:15 PM
#66
I ordered the scoop from vicrc already, I'm going to use the stock canopy. I think the 6" wheels will work. Another poster (warbird04) managed it. No extra room though. The spinner is a real tough one though. Scale spinner would be about 6 1/2" diameter and they have a distinctive look. But that CY cowl is not very scale, 6 1/2" would completely fill the opening. Poster n8622t cut away the cowl and it looks great but I think I'll end up with a 5" spinner and leave the cowl alone, going to be a three blade. I could not find Gene Barton Manufacturing website. I'll keep looking.
01-07-2021, 01:23 AM
#67
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: DrolshagenGermany, GERMANY
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LA7 .. and neverending
Hi there
I have already build 2 of the Andersen LA7. The 3 rd is in progress right now ( 01.2021) .. Both where flying not really well but ok. Landing was difficult and not easy because the heavy weight. I powered them with a 80 cc single ZDZ engine. Power was enough, but a lot of lead is needed. So the bird was arround 19 kg of weight. To much for smoth landing and so it needs a lot of speed to come in safe. Not relaxed flying at all and so one was crashed and the other on was sold. Maybe the profile of the wing is not the best choise for this one.
Then I saw the CY LA7 and ordered one .. same engine but 5 kg less. This one was the best flying warbird ever. No crittical flight characteristics or unexpected things. Unfortunatley this one crashed because of a malfunction of my rc. But thats is another story :-(
I have only good things to say about this model. Yesterday I ordered an new one to build it this winter.
The fuselage and wings of the 3rd Anderesen LA7 are ready but I think I ´ll build the wings complete new. I´ll use my favorite profil and build the wing in two parts in styro/ balsa with glass coating. More of this project later, if someone is intereseted.
Have a good time !!
Regards
Chris
I have already build 2 of the Andersen LA7. The 3 rd is in progress right now ( 01.2021) .. Both where flying not really well but ok. Landing was difficult and not easy because the heavy weight. I powered them with a 80 cc single ZDZ engine. Power was enough, but a lot of lead is needed. So the bird was arround 19 kg of weight. To much for smoth landing and so it needs a lot of speed to come in safe. Not relaxed flying at all and so one was crashed and the other on was sold. Maybe the profile of the wing is not the best choise for this one.
Then I saw the CY LA7 and ordered one .. same engine but 5 kg less. This one was the best flying warbird ever. No crittical flight characteristics or unexpected things. Unfortunatley this one crashed because of a malfunction of my rc. But thats is another story :-(
I have only good things to say about this model. Yesterday I ordered an new one to build it this winter.
The fuselage and wings of the 3rd Anderesen LA7 are ready but I think I ´ll build the wings complete new. I´ll use my favorite profil and build the wing in two parts in styro/ balsa with glass coating. More of this project later, if someone is intereseted.
Have a good time !!
Regards
Chris
01-07-2021, 07:29 AM
#68
Thanks for posting. I have bought a Sierra landing gear and 6” tires for mine, the tires will go in the fuselage now. I’m going with a Tru Turn Spitfire spinner. I have to send my 3 blade prop to them so they can cut the slots. It is very light. But the Moki 180 is pretty heavy. Hopefully it will not require too much lead to balance.
01-07-2021, 04:49 PM
#69
Senior Member
Hi there
I have already build 2 of the Andersen LA7. The 3 rd is in progress right now ( 01.2021) .. Both where flying not really well but ok. Landing was difficult and not easy because the heavy weight. I powered them with a 80 cc single ZDZ engine. Power was enough, but a lot of lead is needed. So the bird was arround 19 kg of weight. To much for smoth landing and so it needs a lot of speed to come in safe. Not relaxed flying at all and so one was crashed and the other on was sold. Maybe the profile of the wing is not the best choise for this one.
Then I saw the CY LA7 and ordered one .. same engine but 5 kg less. This one was the best flying warbird ever. No crittical flight characteristics or unexpected things. Unfortunatley this one crashed because of a malfunction of my rc. But thats is another story :-(
I have only good things to say about this model. Yesterday I ordered an new one to build it this winter.
The fuselage and wings of the 3rd Anderesen LA7 are ready but I think I ´ll build the wings complete new. I´ll use my favorite profil and build the wing in two parts in styro/ balsa with glass coating. More of this project later, if someone is intereseted.
Have a good time !!
Regards
Chris
I have already build 2 of the Andersen LA7. The 3 rd is in progress right now ( 01.2021) .. Both where flying not really well but ok. Landing was difficult and not easy because the heavy weight. I powered them with a 80 cc single ZDZ engine. Power was enough, but a lot of lead is needed. So the bird was arround 19 kg of weight. To much for smoth landing and so it needs a lot of speed to come in safe. Not relaxed flying at all and so one was crashed and the other on was sold. Maybe the profile of the wing is not the best choise for this one.
Then I saw the CY LA7 and ordered one .. same engine but 5 kg less. This one was the best flying warbird ever. No crittical flight characteristics or unexpected things. Unfortunatley this one crashed because of a malfunction of my rc. But thats is another story :-(
I have only good things to say about this model. Yesterday I ordered an new one to build it this winter.
The fuselage and wings of the 3rd Anderesen LA7 are ready but I think I ´ll build the wings complete new. I´ll use my favorite profil and build the wing in two parts in styro/ balsa with glass coating. More of this project later, if someone is intereseted.
Have a good time !!
Regards
Chris
Thanks Chris for your update
We will pass your update to CY Model team.
We know their new electric retracts is very good, made by JP team, with new rubber alloy wheels.
12-22-2021, 02:43 PM
#70
My Feedback: (4)
What is everyone using for control throws? I tend to think that it doesn't need 45 degrees for aileron and elevator. (but just checking)
Also, does anyone have the underside blue color? I think Krylon changed up and not sure if the newer sea glass Aqua is a match or not.
Also, does anyone have the underside blue color? I think Krylon changed up and not sure if the newer sea glass Aqua is a match or not.
03-20-2022, 05:25 PM
#73
My Feedback: (4)
Another ask about control throws...how did everyone's end up compared to the manual?
Also, the 84" version has 2 degrees of right thrust and no down thrust. Has anyone needed to add down thrust?
I measured incidences and main wing is +2 degrees, and the rear stabs are at +1 degree.
Also, the 84" version has 2 degrees of right thrust and no down thrust. Has anyone needed to add down thrust?
I measured incidences and main wing is +2 degrees, and the rear stabs are at +1 degree.