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CY Model P-51D Mustang 2.4M - 85cc

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Old 09-05-2017, 05:48 PM
  #51
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I have tach'd the Roto 85 inline with a 23x10 4blade biela fat blade Mustang prop at 4600rpm's. The same prop off of my DLE 85. That is not high enough rpm so I ordered a 22x10 4blade to try next. Should have it by this weekend. I figured 53-5500prm on the ground should do it.
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Old 09-11-2017, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimD. View Post
I have tach'd the Roto 85 inline with a 23x10 4blade biela fat blade Mustang prop at 4600rpm's. The same prop off of my DLE 85. That is not high enough rpm so I ordered a 22x10 4blade to try next. Should have it by this weekend. I figured 53-5500prm on the ground should do it.
Sounds good! I plan to start on a 2 blade and see where it goes from there. Not strictly scale I know, but at the moment I'm happy with 'sports scale'.
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Old 09-11-2017, 07:44 AM
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So I got a few things done on the P51 over the weekend.

CY provide plastic inserts for the wheel wells but I found they were not an easy fit. Would require a lot of glue and fiddly work so instead I sealed the wood (using sand and seal) and sprayed in Satin black. I also sealed the inside accessory tray and painted it silver (forgot the pic sorry)

Plastic cover to mask overspray and tamiya tape for clean lines



The sand and seal gives a nice surface for the paint to go on. Actually satin black is the ideal colour here because it's completely like putting a black hole in there - no way to reflect light (and imperfections) out!



Retract in situ, I also drilled the wheel hub a little to get it running nice and freely. It will help against nose overs (hopefully!). Theres a few errant black lines from the masking tape, I landed up going around these with a detail brush and silver paint and it looks much better now than what it does in the pic.



I also used sand n seal on the inside accessory tray, and then gave that the brushed aluminium treatment. I'm not a big fan of painting the whole inside of the model but likewise I don't like wood easilly visible so just went for it. Will have to take a photo next time though, forgot to grab one!




So the next job should be to makeup a custom mount for the rudder servo, BUT... I am going to Jetpower show on Friday and there's a chance they might have pilot busts there so tonight I hope to trim the canopy sit it in place and take a measurement of what size pilot I need.
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Old 09-11-2017, 08:12 AM
  #54
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I have their Dauntless with a Moki 180 in it. I replaced the stock gear with Robarts. The stock gear was not strong enough for the plane and very loose " wobbly" low quality.
I did recieved the prop last Friday but the Hurricane has kept me inside all weekend. At least I have been making headway on my Mustang. Firewall replaced so on.
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Old 09-12-2017, 05:10 AM
  #55
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Nice on the Moki, should sound sweet! I am not 100% convinced with the CY struts but will give them a try. If they dont work out will look for alternatives.

And on with some build thread...

Here's the accessories tray I painted silver. Much nicer than wood look IMO and not much of a weight penalty. It's a bit scrappy inside but at this price point things are ok. Only had to give the lip of the access hatches a light sand to clean up the edges a bit.



The canopy comes as a 2 piece affair - the top bubble and the bottom tray. Doesn't really fit out of the box though!





So that's where these Lexan scissors come in, useful for cutting RC car bodies and trimming Mustang canopies apparently!



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Old 09-12-2017, 05:21 AM
  #56
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CY have done a good job of lining up the panel lines in the mould with the lower canopy so the actual trimming was not that tough - about 30minutes had it sorted out.



Most importantly I can now tell that I need a pilot of about 15cm in height (upper body only) and then I can make it resemble the real deal in the air





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Old 09-12-2017, 07:26 AM
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The Roto 85 turned the 22x10 4blade Biela at 5400 rpm's
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Old 09-12-2017, 09:27 AM
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Been following your build. Good job. I thought you might be interested in my CY "B" model. Many flights now with DA 85. Great flying plane. I did a lot of reinforcement inside.
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Old 09-13-2017, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimD. View Post
The Roto 85 turned the 22x10 4blade Biela at 5400 rpm's
Sounds good!... On the off chance would you have any numbers on a 23x12 or 24x10 2 blade?
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Old 09-13-2017, 06:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt G View Post
Been following your build. Good job. I thought you might be interested in my CY "B" model. Many flights now with DA 85. Great flying plane. I did a lot of reinforcement inside.
Nice! I found that the tail end seems to flex a good bit with the elevators on, I was planning on cutting open the back at the bottom to fit a retracting tail wheel and also some structural reinforcements. Your photos are very interesting and your P51 looks great!
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Old 09-14-2017, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quandry View Post
Sounds good!... On the off chance would you have any numbers on a 23x12 or 24x10 2 blade?

Sorry but No. I would think a 22x12 , 22x14 or 23x12 would be a good choice as it turns a low RPM so a good pitch is needed.

Even mine with a 22x10 4blade at 5400 rpm may be questionable for airspeed. My radials turn 4500 on the ground and I use 13-14 inch of pitch because of low rpm. A soon as I get it maidened I will let you know. Having the past week off due to the hurricane last week, I have gotten a lot of work done on mine.
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Old 09-16-2017, 01:44 PM
  #62
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Very encouraged to order one of the P51 versions from what I'm seeing on this thread.
Could any of you provide some feedback on the CY Retracts?
Are they worth the savings, or is it better to go with Robart or Sierra gear?

Thank you.
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Old 09-17-2017, 09:48 AM
  #63
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How much dead weight at nose for DA85 to balance?
flying weight?
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Old 09-19-2017, 08:38 AM
  #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgiokas View Post
Very encouraged to order one of the P51 versions from what I'm seeing on this thread.
Could any of you provide some feedback on the CY Retracts?
Are they worth the savings, or is it better to go with Robart or Sierra gear?

Thank you.
The Electron retracts are A1 awesome.
The CY legs look very cheesy. Not sure how long they will hold up. Going to try them because I have them but I would not buy them on purpose.

Next steps on the p51...

Had a super time at Jetpower and managed to pickup a cool 1:5 pilot for the P51 from one of the vendors. He is ever too slightly big for the scale but sits under the canopy well and I think it looks great.







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Old 09-19-2017, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimD. View Post
Sorry but No. I would think a 22x12 , 22x14 or 23x12 would be a good choice as it turns a low RPM so a good pitch is needed.

Even mine with a 22x10 4blade at 5400 rpm may be questionable for airspeed. My radials turn 4500 on the ground and I use 13-14 inch of pitch because of low rpm. A soon as I get it maidened I will let you know. Having the past week off due to the hurricane last week, I have gotten a lot of work done on mine.
Thanks will take in to account!
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Old 09-19-2017, 06:12 PM
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i am using the CY struts with Robart electric units
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Old 09-22-2017, 05:22 PM
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Thanks guys for the feedback on the retracts.
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Old 10-03-2017, 12:28 AM
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Robar setup looks good Capt G.!!

I've been a bit slack with my updates but my P51 project is ticking along...

Here is my pilot and the supplied kit parts... upper and lower canopy, pic of dash, and a seat



I'm doing a 'sport scale' build so quite sparse on scale details. For that reason I chose to paint the inside satin black as it hides a lot of moulding imperfections and also does 'empty space' quite inconspicuously.



I also measured and marked up a couple of holes so I could install my ignition LEDs in the model, where hopefully the light will bounce up inside carbon tube. This would work better with fibreoptics but don't have anything to hand so...



Looks a bit aggressive I know but this is a close up shot. When the canopy is glued down it will just look like red lights on the dash





The pilot is secured to the base with a light plate underneath - glued and screwed!





I then trimmed the upper canopy, and glued it down with PVA style glue. Its strong enough to hold but can be removed by running a sharp knife through the bead.
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Old 10-03-2017, 12:32 AM
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For the rudder servo I found a handy sized hatch which was a pretty easy cutout with a dremel reinforced wheel:



I glued in some mounting brackets on the inside to secure the door and also give some hold for an inside plate:



Measured up, cut and servo mounted. Where this is going is quite compact but the servo is held down will allen head screws so it can be removed with an angle key.





I need a longer servo arm so that is on order now. When that comes in I can finalise the 3mm link and test out my rudder.
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Old 10-03-2017, 12:36 AM
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I have some wiring harness to make up and have started looking at my electronics. I'm going to be using a Spektrum AR12200 Powersafe RX and will also be installing a Cortex Pro 3 axis gyro from Bavarian Demon. Overall I'm sure this plane will not NEED a gyro to fly, but this is part of my hobby trying out cool stuff so I'm really looking forward to setting up the Cortex and trying it out. Besides on a nasty cross wind landing it might just save my bacon!





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Old 10-03-2017, 12:38 AM
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This is a 1 liter setup petrol tank from Bigplanes an a felt clunk I had put aside from another project.



I found the clunk would easily wrap around on itself and the filler tube so I added the brass tube and a felt pickup to eliminate air draw.





I'm making up a small mounting plate for the tank on the accessory tray and will strap it down with velcro. It's handy the tank is nice and clear can spot any issues before they become bigger issues when out flying!
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Old 10-29-2017, 08:37 AM
  #72
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Been away for a bit so just getting back to this build now.. I picked up an Eflite Mustang 60cc retractable tail wheel setup so am going to give it a go.



Turns out the Eflite retract is 2 wire so needs a controller, I wasn’t expecting that but luckily turns out to work fine with the Electron controller (phew).









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Old 10-29-2017, 08:39 AM
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So then it was time to brainstorm a mounting plate setup. Designed that using cardboard cut outs as templates, cut it out of 3mm carbon ply and glued in to place with reinforcing plates.









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Old 11-13-2017, 05:57 AM
  #74
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Progress continues on the P-51D with installing steering (closed loop grrrr :/ ) and initial line up of electronics. Before the wiring begins I will be locking down the RoTo 85 and tackling some cowl work. More projects on the horizon so it’s Good to be back in the zone.











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Old Yesterday, 06:11 AM
  #75
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The eagle eye reader may have spied that the steering servo is not high voltage. I used that servo as I had it sitting about, but it's now been changed to HV like the rest of the setup so that makes it easier not having to run a regulator etc. I am still skeptical if the steering retract plate will be strong enough but for now I am trying to keep the model light so lets see how it goes. I also need to make up retract doors for the tail, but I'll do that after I get a read on the CG and have an idea what weight needs to go where as it will influence wether I go for a servo or spring based door system.

Then it was time to do some installation on the front of the model... I don't yet have the spinner in hand, so can only do a rough engine fitting, but figured it was time to start on cowl fitting. Depending on how the motor is mounted there can be some areas that are a little tight even if you kick the engine over on an angle. I found that I had to make a cutout for the front cylinder head cover as it only just barely breaches the cowl:



This will be covered by a small vented grill, that directs air flow in to the cowl towards the rear cylinder head. This will be complimented by a larger grill at the back that directs hot air back out of the model. Yes it's not very scale looking, but I'm going on the basis that this is a 'sport scale' not true scale model, and also that on a lot of Mustangs I see they have giant cut outs with engines hanging out of them.



I have some miniature button head screws to attach these with so am gluing in som battons on the inside of the model to give secure purchase.



The engine mounts will be rubber fully coated with washers. I saw some really nice Seacraft engine mounts but alas I had already cut and shut my engine box to fit this size so lets see how they go..



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