CY MODELS La-7//Evolution 160 radial
08-05-2017, 11:49 PM
#101
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Ok thank you for the Morris motor link, but I have self modified the Fg-84 in my workshop...and i have the best results now, the motor runs as the stock Fg-90! Ray English modification that you find on you tube was a good basis, i have add another thinks, and now the motor is good. My other hobby is to self build model engines. See picture with some scrap parts that i used for test. I have disassemble the engine more than 50 times to run it good...
The original Saito carburetor has an choke, you must screw the M3.5 choke bar on it, close completly the butterfly, pull the chocke bar and turn the prop several times. That it is, as descripted in the saito manual!
The most big mistake that all people make, is to measure the cylinder temperature with infrared, and this is not reliable and repeatable (problems with china product, reflection color that false the measure, etc). I measure with temperature probs that are mounted on exhaust side, and this on each cylinder. I leave the probes mounted, add an good plug, an i can read the cylinders temperatures on the ground. So i can see if the cylinders overheat, and this with or without cowling. See the picture and the mounted probe on top cylinder, and the measuring bench.
Your cowling opening are good, and you can always first test the motor without or with cowling and see the difference if exist!
I am on work on my La with weathering...i post you pictures next time.
The original Saito carburetor has an choke, you must screw the M3.5 choke bar on it, close completly the butterfly, pull the chocke bar and turn the prop several times. That it is, as descripted in the saito manual!
The most big mistake that all people make, is to measure the cylinder temperature with infrared, and this is not reliable and repeatable (problems with china product, reflection color that false the measure, etc). I measure with temperature probs that are mounted on exhaust side, and this on each cylinder. I leave the probes mounted, add an good plug, an i can read the cylinders temperatures on the ground. So i can see if the cylinders overheat, and this with or without cowling. See the picture and the mounted probe on top cylinder, and the measuring bench.
Your cowling opening are good, and you can always first test the motor without or with cowling and see the difference if exist!
I am on work on my La with weathering...i post you pictures next time.
Last edited by warbird04; 08-05-2017 at 11:54 PM.
08-06-2017, 04:50 AM
#103
Ok thank you for the Morris motor link, but I have self modified the Fg-84 in my workshop...and i have the best results now, the motor runs as the stock Fg-90! Ray English modification that you find on you tube was a good basis, i have add another thinks, and now the motor is good. My other hobby is to self build model engines. See picture with some scrap parts that i used for test. I have disassemble the engine more than 50 times to run it good...
The original Saito carburetor has an choke, you must screw the M3.5 choke bar on it, close completly the butterfly, pull the chocke bar and turn the prop several times. That it is, as descripted in the saito manual!
The most big mistake that all people make, is to measure the cylinder temperature with infrared, and this is not reliable and repeatable (problems with china product, reflection color that false the measure, etc). I measure with temperature probs that are mounted on exhaust side, and this on each cylinder. I leave the probes mounted, add an good plug, an i can read the cylinders temperatures on the ground. So i can see if the cylinders overheat, and this with or without cowling. See the picture and the mounted probe on top cylinder, and the measuring bench.
Your cowling opening are good, and you can always first test the motor without or with cowling and see the difference if exist!
I am on work on my La with weathering...i post you pictures next time.
The original Saito carburetor has an choke, you must screw the M3.5 choke bar on it, close completly the butterfly, pull the chocke bar and turn the prop several times. That it is, as descripted in the saito manual!
The most big mistake that all people make, is to measure the cylinder temperature with infrared, and this is not reliable and repeatable (problems with china product, reflection color that false the measure, etc). I measure with temperature probs that are mounted on exhaust side, and this on each cylinder. I leave the probes mounted, add an good plug, an i can read the cylinders temperatures on the ground. So i can see if the cylinders overheat, and this with or without cowling. See the picture and the mounted probe on top cylinder, and the measuring bench.
Your cowling opening are good, and you can always first test the motor without or with cowling and see the difference if exist!
I am on work on my La with weathering...i post you pictures next time.
08-06-2017, 04:55 AM
#104
My friend just ran his Saito 90 with the walbro carb from Morris yesterday and although the engine ran fine, it lost 700rpm as compared to the stock carb. The prop was a 24x10 used on both carbs so needless to say he's putting the original carb back on the engine
08-07-2017, 05:01 AM
#107
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Yes, the spring hold the door in opening position, and that is the wheel who close the door when the gear is retracted. The wheel support on the black stem and hold it in closed position
May be I upgrade the system as the full scale. But the principle is the same, but more reliable. It's a bit more complex to built. See the other La-7 cy models post on rcunivers, it's explain.
May be I upgrade the system as the full scale. But the principle is the same, but more reliable. It's a bit more complex to built. See the other La-7 cy models post on rcunivers, it's explain.
08-07-2017, 07:58 AM
#110
Yes, the spring hold the door in opening position, and that is the wheel who close the door when the gear is retracted. The wheel support on the black stem and hold it in closed position
May be I upgrade the system as the full scale. But the principle is the same, but more reliable. It's a bit more complex to built. See the other La-7 cy models post on rcunivers, it's explain.
May be I upgrade the system as the full scale. But the principle is the same, but more reliable. It's a bit more complex to built. See the other La-7 cy models post on rcunivers, it's explain.
08-08-2017, 06:36 AM
#113
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I use a DuBro hinge, remove the axle, and make a new with piano wire. I make a spring (wire diameter is 0.5mm), outside diameter is aprox 4mm. For best results, i trie to make new spring, and this at left and right from the hinge, this avoids folding of the plastic hinge. Must test for see if better.
08-08-2017, 09:35 AM
#114
I use a DuBro hinge, remove the axle, and make a new with piano wire. I make a spring (wire diameter is 0.5mm), outside diameter is aprox 4mm. For best results, i trie to make new spring, and this at left and right from the hinge, this avoids folding of the plastic hinge. Must test for see if better.
i didn't like how soft the fuse belly was so I added some stringers and a former. Was yours like that??
Last edited by n8622t; 08-08-2017 at 05:49 PM.
08-09-2017, 03:25 AM
#116
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You have an good idee with your switch door, I like it.
I send you a picture about the finish painting and weathering, this is in progress on my fuse, the motor cowl is almost ready...
08-09-2017, 05:05 AM
#117
My fuse belly is soft as yours...but i do not added some enhancement. On the other hand i epoxyed all former again, and specially the firewall. All the wood parts are glued factory side with bad glue... here is necessary to take a look on these glued parts and retake some epoxy if necessary. The worst glued parts is the radio plate, pull on the plate and this go away easly.
You have an good idee with your switch door, I like it.
I send you a picture about the finish painting and weathering, this is in progress on my fuse, the motor cowl is almost ready...
You have an good idee with your switch door, I like it.
I send you a picture about the finish painting and weathering, this is in progress on my fuse, the motor cowl is almost ready...
08-11-2017, 11:25 PM
#125
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