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TopRCModel FW-190

Old 10-28-2019, 08:40 AM
  #601  
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Old 10-28-2019, 05:37 PM
  #602  
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Since the radial is such a low vibration engine I decided that 4 cowl mounts will be plenty
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Old 10-29-2019, 12:00 AM
  #603  
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Nice work, very neat. Is this the 125cc engine?

It seems to have a very short snout, requiring the engine to be mounted quite far forward. I cant help thinking that a longer prop hub modification would allow the engine to be mounted further back in the cowl and not have the problem of the rockers interfering with the cowl. I have seen the engine 'in situ' in the cowl, with no interference, but that is of course, without the offset taken into consideration.
Also, with the 125 being heavier than the FG90, it shouldnt affect the CG that much if moved back a bit... hmmm, I am going to have to think this through.

Nice to see your progress.
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Old 10-29-2019, 05:35 AM
  #604  
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Originally Posted by cathurga View Post
Nice work, very neat. Is this the 125cc engine?

It seems to have a very short snout, requiring the engine to be mounted quite far forward. I cant help thinking that a longer prop hub modification would allow the engine to be mounted further back in the cowl and not have the problem of the rockers interfering with the cowl. I have seen the engine 'in situ' in the cowl, with no interference, but that is of course, without the offset taken into consideration.
Also, with the 125 being heavier than the FG90, it shouldnt affect the CG that much if moved back a bit... hmmm, I am going to have to think this through.

Nice to see your progress.
Thanks for the comments a prop hub extension could be bolted onto the crankshaft as long as the new hub had its on bolt system to attach the prop with, that would definitely put the cylinders back into the cowl away from the tapered area of the cowl...the stroke on these engines are much longer than the Moki but that does make them more powerful

Last edited by n8622t; 10-29-2019 at 05:37 AM.
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Old 10-29-2019, 08:49 AM
  #605  
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Jimmy, I think I will look into getting a new prop hub machined on there. It would likely need to be a hub with a design similar to a DLE type configuration in order to work, I am not sure if that will be as easy as one would think as it would mean adding a magnet for the timing...need to sit back and do some sort of design.

Thanks for your help.
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Old 10-29-2019, 10:53 AM
  #606  
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Cowl mount area is reinforced and ready to drill
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Old 10-29-2019, 10:55 AM
  #607  
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Cowl mount area is reinforced and ready to drill
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Old 10-29-2019, 04:59 PM
  #608  
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Drill and tap

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Old 10-30-2019, 04:40 PM
  #609  
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Now to mount the cooling vents, clean up the rocker reliefs and blister, and baffle the engine
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Old 10-31-2019, 03:58 AM
  #610  
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Looks good man! Are you going to be putting more cooling vents than the one at the bottom? The openings where the real plane's exhausts are, are pretty large, and them in conjunction with the louvre at the bottom...as well as baffling, might just be enough to get air moving through and removing heat...I would hope it is, as adding more vents is going to start taking away from the 'appearance'.
I am following dilligently as I am searching for ways to get this engine in without to much hacking. By the looks of it, moving the engine back around 1.25" might just negate the need to have the valve areas cut out....its marginal..

Great work, and i am SOOOO keen to see this plane fly with that 'lump' in it.

Andy
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Old 11-01-2019, 04:02 PM
  #611  
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Thanks Andy but I didnít mention that the Germans were working on a new prototype 190 that never met production due to the end of the war....it had a 5 cyl radial
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Old 11-03-2019, 08:46 AM
  #612  
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Decided to add two smaller vents on top of cowl
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Old 11-03-2019, 07:14 PM
  #613  
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From what I understand the vents like the ones you use are not very effective since the space is so small between the slats lots of interference drag as the air tries to figure the way out.
Sparky
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Old 11-04-2019, 05:15 AM
  #614  
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Actually the vents are very affective....the openings are very large and the slats are angled as to create a negative pressure which reduces drag on the front side and easy air flow on the exit side, very affective
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Old 11-04-2019, 10:14 AM
  #615  
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That should be close to a 3:1 ratio of venting
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Old 11-04-2019, 02:06 PM
  #616  
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Now to brace and hot glue then a thin coat of epoxy on the baffles
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Old 11-04-2019, 08:04 PM
  #617  
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So after flying mine all season, I have to say this has turned out to be one of my favorite airplanes. I put probably 60-70 flights on it and really have had zero issues with it. Its a superb flying plane with the DLE-111. I have Sierra main gear and the TOP RC stock tailwheel unit. I never could get the geometry on the pull pull cables correct on the tailwheel, so I ended up just locking it down.

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Old 11-04-2019, 08:05 PM
  #618  
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Old 11-05-2019, 04:37 AM
  #619  
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Thatís awesome...glad to hear itís a solid bird
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Old 11-05-2019, 04:39 AM
  #620  
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EZ fit
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Old 11-05-2019, 06:10 AM
  #621  
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Time for the tail
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Old 11-05-2019, 06:21 AM
  #622  
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Here’s the tail wheel pull pull cable geometry:
mount the cable exits 3/8 inch above the forward tail wheel mount and there shouldn’t be any tension change in the cables

Last edited by n8622t; 11-05-2019 at 06:25 AM.
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Old 11-05-2019, 08:10 AM
  #623  
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Thanks for the help Tim
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Old 11-05-2019, 08:34 AM
  #624  
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Drill your pull pull cables here and the cable tension remains constant...3/8 inch above the mount plate
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Old 11-05-2019, 12:56 PM
  #625  
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And I thought the cowl was a lot of work
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