TopRCModel FW-190
#651
My Feedback: (71)
Guys,
I've read a lot about the rubbish retracts that come with the plane, and in fact, I have Electron units fitted on the plane I bought. What I have found though, is that the Electron units, as brilliant as they are, have a VERY small footprint in the mount position, and they are eventually going to cause a failure in the mounts unless I beef them up to the max. I am reluctant to do this as it will mean opening the fibre glass, and I am not intersted in that really. So, the other plan is to get some of the original parts, namely the retract body, perhaps with the new electric offering. I dont need the oleo's, wheels, tail wheel setup and controller. All I need is the retract frame, trunnion and the support arm between the frame and oleo. I am going to see if the electric motor/gearbox is up to snuff, but I doubt it. Alternatively, it looks like I can retrofit some Electron linear actuators in their place.
So, the question is, what was WRONG with the original sets, without referring to any pneumatics, as I wont be using that. Was it bad geometry or similar. Iknow that Darryl mentioned the oleos are too thin and some bad machining or something, but outside of that....what gives?
My local dealer says TopRC will help get the parts, but I dont know what I am in for, money wise....waiting to hear. He had a set of the original air units, and they look pretty sturdy and have a decent action to them, and they will fit in the right places....I will just mod the action.
Appreciate any positive criticism...
I've read a lot about the rubbish retracts that come with the plane, and in fact, I have Electron units fitted on the plane I bought. What I have found though, is that the Electron units, as brilliant as they are, have a VERY small footprint in the mount position, and they are eventually going to cause a failure in the mounts unless I beef them up to the max. I am reluctant to do this as it will mean opening the fibre glass, and I am not intersted in that really. So, the other plan is to get some of the original parts, namely the retract body, perhaps with the new electric offering. I dont need the oleo's, wheels, tail wheel setup and controller. All I need is the retract frame, trunnion and the support arm between the frame and oleo. I am going to see if the electric motor/gearbox is up to snuff, but I doubt it. Alternatively, it looks like I can retrofit some Electron linear actuators in their place.
So, the question is, what was WRONG with the original sets, without referring to any pneumatics, as I wont be using that. Was it bad geometry or similar. Iknow that Darryl mentioned the oleos are too thin and some bad machining or something, but outside of that....what gives?
My local dealer says TopRC will help get the parts, but I dont know what I am in for, money wise....waiting to hear. He had a set of the original air units, and they look pretty sturdy and have a decent action to them, and they will fit in the right places....I will just mod the action.
Appreciate any positive criticism...
Last edited by vquick; 11-27-2019 at 04:53 AM.
#656
Been reading/following this thread from the first post. This TopRC FW190 is in the running for my next giant-scale project. Currently fly four big
gassers including a P-47 and Hellcat. Would appreciate your taking a look at my "estimate" for this bad boy.
1. TopRC FW-190 - ~ $1250 including shipping
2. 2-stroke engine - (not the plane for a 5 cylinder radial, imho) ~$750
3. Servos - $400
4. Spektrum receiver - $200
5. Gear - Sierra (no-brainer) - the all-up $$$ including retracts/wheels/tires/air kit - $800 "about" cover it?
6. All the miscellaneous other stuff we gotta buy...servo extensions, prop(s), fuel tank, switches, 3-blade spinner, batteries, etc. - $300 - $500
(Good idea from reading this thread to beef-up the rear empennage, ahead of the vertical stab., with CF or Fiberglass cloth. Will do!)
gassers including a P-47 and Hellcat. Would appreciate your taking a look at my "estimate" for this bad boy.
1. TopRC FW-190 - ~ $1250 including shipping
2. 2-stroke engine - (not the plane for a 5 cylinder radial, imho) ~$750
3. Servos - $400
4. Spektrum receiver - $200
5. Gear - Sierra (no-brainer) - the all-up $$$ including retracts/wheels/tires/air kit - $800 "about" cover it?
6. All the miscellaneous other stuff we gotta buy...servo extensions, prop(s), fuel tank, switches, 3-blade spinner, batteries, etc. - $300 - $500
(Good idea from reading this thread to beef-up the rear empennage, ahead of the vertical stab., with CF or Fiberglass cloth. Will do!)
Last edited by V35BFLYER; 11-28-2019 at 08:06 AM.
#657
My Feedback: (6)
I would skip the HiTec servo's but that's a holdover from several bad personal experiences. Better servo's
Several GS guys have these servo's and are quite pleased with them. When I run out of my JR high end servo's I will try them.
$$$ wise I think you will be the same.
If you are willing to wait you can get the plane shipped in primer or any other state of finish, mine was without any decals since It is going to be a captured color scheme flown by the US Navy in PAX river.
I didn't think to ask for primer only. I have done some test shots with warbird colors and it covers the underlying paint without any bleed through. Insigna white over the bottom color which is the green tint.
Sparky
Several GS guys have these servo's and are quite pleased with them. When I run out of my JR high end servo's I will try them.
$$$ wise I think you will be the same.
If you are willing to wait you can get the plane shipped in primer or any other state of finish, mine was without any decals since It is going to be a captured color scheme flown by the US Navy in PAX river.
I didn't think to ask for primer only. I have done some test shots with warbird colors and it covers the underlying paint without any bleed through. Insigna white over the bottom color which is the green tint.
Sparky
#659
My Feedback: (6)
His website is clearly quite slick and positive and as all things taken with a grain of sand.
If you haven't seen some of the test before they are interesting to review.
He and I have agreed to disagree a few times but I think his stuff is good enough.
I had to pay for my plane up front to get it shipped without decals but I suspect primer only will be the same its just the wait for shipping.
Sparky
If you haven't seen some of the test before they are interesting to review.
He and I have agreed to disagree a few times but I think his stuff is good enough.
I had to pay for my plane up front to get it shipped without decals but I suspect primer only will be the same its just the wait for shipping.
Sparky
#669
Member
If you want electric like I did, then you can buy a set from Sierra and then send them to down and locked, it will cost you just over 800. to have them modified to electric. That does not count the cost of the the units from Sierra.
If you would like pictures of what they look like after the mod let me know.
If you would like pictures of what they look like after the mod let me know.
#670
My Feedback: (3)
To help make air retracts reliable you need to increase the air tank volume. If the retracts are good, no leaks, mechanically sound, then more air tanks to increase volume will give them the power to cycle and consume very little air. Before you write off air systems, and $800, try a $50 solution first.
#671
My Feedback: (6)
I think D&L will also make the gear as well. It might be less$$$
Only thing negative about Sierra is there low availability at times.
On the flat hinges I like to take a hole punch and put a large hole in each section . About the size of a paper punch, (I actually used a proper punch) that way the epoxy will flow then bind through the hole and lock the tab in place!
Sparky
Only thing negative about Sierra is there low availability at times.
On the flat hinges I like to take a hole punch and put a large hole in each section . About the size of a paper punch, (I actually used a proper punch) that way the epoxy will flow then bind through the hole and lock the tab in place!
Sparky
#673
My Feedback: (8)
I think D&L will also make the gear as well. It might be less$$$
Only thing negative about Sierra is there low availability at times.
On the flat hinges I like to take a hole punch and put a large hole in each section . About the size of a paper punch, (I actually used a proper punch) that way the epoxy will flow then bind through the hole and lock the tab in place!
Sparky
Only thing negative about Sierra is there low availability at times.
On the flat hinges I like to take a hole punch and put a large hole in each section . About the size of a paper punch, (I actually used a proper punch) that way the epoxy will flow then bind through the hole and lock the tab in place!
Sparky