TopRCModel FW-190
02-28-2018, 05:12 AM
#104
Getting started on the Sierra tail gear. Don't know if this is the best way but it's what I'm doing.
Have to move the fuselage bulkhead about 3/4 of an inch forward. The rib in the fin that the air cylinder mounts to needs to
be move further down by about 3/4 of an inch. Should be able to make further progress on Sunday.
I've cut out a hatch to allow easy access.
Have to move the fuselage bulkhead about 3/4 of an inch forward. The rib in the fin that the air cylinder mounts to needs to
be move further down by about 3/4 of an inch. Should be able to make further progress on Sunday.
I've cut out a hatch to allow easy access.
How difficult was it to remove the existing bulkhead?
Did you replace the fiberglass section you removed to do all the work?
Would it be possible to use the Sierra tailwheel retract in a fixed lower position and not have it retract?
Sorry for all the questions Wingspar just trying to figure out if there is an easier way to get the tailwheel mounted without cutting into the plane.
02-28-2018, 06:45 AM
#105
Did you remove the existing bulkhead and moved it or did you make a whole new one?
I removed about 90% of it leaving only the sides that housed the blue rudder wire guide.
After determining where the new retract would need to be mounted and cutting out the access hatch in the fuselage, I made a new bulkhead out of 1/8" 5 ply plywood with a doubler on the upper part. I used 1/8" balsa and trial and error to determine shape and fit.
How difficult was it to remove the existing bulkhead?
Easy as I just used a saw to cut down the bulkhead near the rudder wire guide
Did you replace the fiberglass section you removed to do all the work?
No, it was cut out with a razor saw and will be reused. It will reattach to the fuselage with screws so it can be removed for maintenance. Should have photos by this week-end
Would it be possible to use the Sierra tailwheel retract in a fixed lower position and not have it retract?
I think it could but a better solution would be just use a fixed tail wheel fork and save yourself the need for a pound or two of extra weight up front to balance it out.
I removed about 90% of it leaving only the sides that housed the blue rudder wire guide.
After determining where the new retract would need to be mounted and cutting out the access hatch in the fuselage, I made a new bulkhead out of 1/8" 5 ply plywood with a doubler on the upper part. I used 1/8" balsa and trial and error to determine shape and fit.
How difficult was it to remove the existing bulkhead?
Easy as I just used a saw to cut down the bulkhead near the rudder wire guide
Did you replace the fiberglass section you removed to do all the work?
No, it was cut out with a razor saw and will be reused. It will reattach to the fuselage with screws so it can be removed for maintenance. Should have photos by this week-end
Would it be possible to use the Sierra tailwheel retract in a fixed lower position and not have it retract?
I think it could but a better solution would be just use a fixed tail wheel fork and save yourself the need for a pound or two of extra weight up front to balance it out.
02-28-2018, 07:11 AM
#106
Spent some time working on the main gear install. First, I had to trim off the extra material at the retract mount. Rail spacing was fine but it sat to low in the wing causing interference between the retract and upper wing.
Trial fitted two pieces of 1/8" plywood on top of the rails to help this issue. Layed the retract back down and found that the wheel and strut would be to low in the wheel well. I installed two 1/8 plywood shims ...1/4".... on both upper
part of the mounting rails. With this the wheel and strut sat perfectly in the wheel well and the strut was parallel to the wing surface. Then loaded up the rail mount with West System thickened epoxy before laying down the
plywood piece on top
Trial fitted two pieces of 1/8" plywood on top of the rails to help this issue. Layed the retract back down and found that the wheel and strut would be to low in the wheel well. I installed two 1/8 plywood shims ...1/4".... on both upper
part of the mounting rails. With this the wheel and strut sat perfectly in the wheel well and the strut was parallel to the wing surface. Then loaded up the rail mount with West System thickened epoxy before laying down the
plywood piece on top
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gixer47 (08-12-2023)
02-28-2018, 10:23 AM
#107
I built a Top Flite FW 190, stripped the Monocote , glassed and painted it. RG 90 for the engine.Great looking plane but I never fly it because of the lame Robart Gear.
02-28-2018, 09:18 PM
#110
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Hi Guys,
just to let you know, I have designed a specific fan for the toprcmodel FW-190 that fits the cowl and the backplate of the original Toprcmodel Spinner. Its 3D printed in BDP, a very sturdy and temperature resisting material (110°C)
just to let you know, I have designed a specific fan for the toprcmodel FW-190 that fits the cowl and the backplate of the original Toprcmodel Spinner. Its 3D printed in BDP, a very sturdy and temperature resisting material (110°C)
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marvair (12-26-2020),
planenutzz (07-12-2021)
03-01-2018, 02:25 AM
#111
Join Date: Dec 2005
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Has any one tried the Robart Retracts? I ordered my FW190 with the TopRCModels retracts and was very disappointed. Last year I got the Zero with the factory electric retracts and could not be happier with their performance. After checking out the FW 190 retracts I found a bad air leak in both of the retract air cylinders. The machine work was the problem. Mike at Caiman (Gator) has said he will replace them with a set of Roberts. I would like to support him as I want him to be successful and keep more TopRC Models coming. I am sure the Roberts won’t be as scale as Sierra retracts but will they work?
I myself have got an answer from Bigplanes.nl. They are taking it serious and I now awaits answer on solutions.
Other than that, my "Butcher-project" is moving forward. Are about to install my Dle 111 and tank. Changed my FW-190 to "Weiß 9" instead of "Rote 13", which Dan- my wingman
is currently building. Going to be soooo good with these two together, IF we get the gear to function properly. Test flight in about a month I hope.
03-01-2018, 06:50 AM
#113
03-01-2018, 10:39 AM
#114
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Test fitted the DLE 111 before cleanup. Perfect fit but needed to be spaced out about 1/2 an inch. Sparkplugs fit inside the cowl with no need for any holes. I did a quick test balance and found it's still tail heavy even with this heavier engine. So it's either lead or something useful so I'm going to install an autostarter to the DLE 111.
Received a better size swastika.
.
Received a better size swastika.
.
03-01-2018, 02:17 PM
#115
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Rgds,
Philipp
03-03-2018, 09:55 PM
#125
Why would it cause overheating when it's designed to directly provide airflow to the motor? As long as the engine area is baffled correctly and air exits, it should be a benefit. Understandably there would be a performance hit of a few hundred rpm though.