buildflycrash

Looking for active thread on this plane. mine is flying after trouble with glitching caused by Y harness. gear would go up when I moved alerons, belly landing! i want to know more about the replacement retracts and how to enlarge the wheel wells. the small stock wheels look bad and the retracts seem weak!

I have Saito 91 with MAS 13x10. I would like more speed if you have any ideas.(bigger engine is the obvious)

Scott B.

p.j

I would also like more info. on the tire mods. I will try the Spring Air gear in mine. The plane is still on backorder from Great Hobbies , about 3 weeks now.

P.J

sloppy flier

My Feedback: (1)

I replaced the retracts in mine with Robart 609 HDs mechanicals. The wheels were replaced with 3inch Hangar 9 wheels. The wheel wells were trimmed for fit with a dremel. You really have to be brave and sensible grinding away things in this area. There is no real supporting structure in this area but I did reinforce the factory hard wood blocks the gear mount to. The Robarts are a little larger than the factory retracts. It took a lot of fitting but the 3inch wheels will fit. You just need to take your time. Forget about using the factory wheel cups. You need to fabricate some or find another method of finishing this area, but flying with the wheels up you will never know the difference.

buildflycrash

Sloppy flier, How did you finish the wheel cups? mine are already installed would have to rip them out ! Where are the robarts bigger? how much did you have to do?
Scott B

Paul Grubich

My Feedback: (1)

I am re-doing one of these planes that I got used. I am putting a Saito 150 in it for power. The 150 does fit and the balance looks good so far. It will be overpowered but I can swing a 15/8 Graupner 3 blade.

I am also doing more modifications that include Robart mechanical retracts with scale struts, larger wheels, full cockpit, sliding canopy, olive drab re-paint, maybe flaps, etc. I am going to do a thread on the mods here with pictures soon.

Paul
www.rcwarbirds.com

buildflycrash

Paul, Your just the man we are looking for! Give us the blow by blow here or lets us know how to find the new thread.

If you are changing the color recovering may be best. the stock covering looks good when new and tight but that is all the good thisgs I have to say about it!

The bigger Engine is good, I had to put lead in the nose of mine w/ saito 91. (12 oz ?? I think)

good luck Scott B.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Hi Paul,

This is good news! I also have a NIB Model Tech P-47 and having someone who knows what they are doing make mods and post a thread is just what I need!

Good Lord, a Saito 150? [X(] Wow, I am curious if you will have to butcher the cowl much. Do you also think one of the small gasoline engines would fit without carving up the cowl?

Tom

Paul Grubich

My Feedback: (1)

Scott, I did recover the fuse with Ultracoat white. I think this is the same stuff as Oracover. I am now painting it with Rustoleum Camo Khaki for the top and sides and some inexpensive gray for the bottom. After that dries I will add decals and nose art, it will then be weathered and finished with Lustercoat Flat Clear or some other flat clear.

Tom, the Saito 150 is not recommended for this plane. They say a 91 will give it plenty of power. I am just experimenting. I cannot recommend this large an engine until I fly the plane and see what falls off. I could get flutter or worse. I did beef and epoxy the firewall. I am not sure any gas engine would be small enough for this plane. Also the cowl was not cut up to bad and the engine seems to fit snugly into it.

Paul
www.rcwarbirds.com

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Paul,

From reading the threads here on RCU, lots of people have used the Magnum 91 FS and still needed 10-12 oz. of dead weight in the nose. Your Saito will probably balance it well without uneeded weight. Swinging that big prop is going to be sweet. And the left stick controls flutter. Hopefully you don't get any!

I also have purchased the Magnum 91FS for this bird but I am having second thoughts about running it direct drive. I am toying with the idea of using a belt driven reduction system I have. Then I could swing a healthy 4-blade prop.

nchrome

Well guys I have one also and I have a OS90 in mine and a used one of harrys brass nuts to hold the prop on (12/6) and to help balance. The engine is installed inverted that way I didn't have to butcher the cowel so much. I also cut a hole in the fire wall and made a fiberglass tube that goes from the fire wall back to the tailwheel. The belly pan comes off and has part of the tube in it this way no fuel and oil will get inside the plane or on the belly of the wings or the belly pan on the inside. Also the turbo scoop aids in the exhaust of the hot air from the engine. So far this system seem to work on the ground so far. Too high of winds to test fly yet. I also put 3" wheels on mine and replaced the gear wires seemed to bend pretty easly. Also was able to make gear doors for the gear that are a little more scale and also the inner doors but havent figured a way to make them close with the wheels. But they do have springs to make them open. Thought about the flaps but guess I will wait till after a few flights and see how she handles.

buildflycrash

Next we need photos!
Ncrome, this exaust tube is interesting, seems like a lot of work.
How did you change the gear wire what did you use?
How did you deal with the wheel cups with the 3" wheels?

on my Jug I attached the wing fillets to the fuse insted of the wing. So that the wing fits up to the fillet insted of trying to wedge the fuse between the fillets when I put the wing on. It works perfectly!
Scott B

Cyclic Hardover

My Feedback: (3)

I run an OS 1.08 inverted in mine and still needed nose weight. Runs real good. First few flight wer great. Then I stalled on a landing an ddropped like a rock right on those so called cheap retracts. Well i had slopped epoxy all around the inside of the retract mounts and those suckers did not bend break fold of mutilate.

nchrome

The tube wasn't realy that much trouble to do just used a tube and covered it with wax paper then glassed over then removed the glass after it set up. Cut a short piece to go from the firewall to the wing saddle. With just a little sticking out in the wing saddle which would be smaller than the belly tube. That way the front tub thaat is sticking out will fit inside the tube that is inside the belly pan. The tube that goes into the belly pan was cut at an angle at the back of the pan. The third piece of the tube sticks out of the back of the wing saddle enought to be able to fasten the belly pan to it and complete the tube from the front to the tail wheel. The tube is actualy made in three pieces.As far as the wheel cups I removed them and made a set of my own out of Motts apple sause containers. On the landing gear wires I replaced with standard piano wire gear. I haven't mounted the wing fillets yet though cause I may make a set of fiberglass fillets. Using the plastic ones as molds then glue to the fuse.

Paul Grubich

My Feedback: (1)

Yeah those original gear wire were a bit wobbly. I am going to use thicker wires, cut them off short and slip on some working oleo struts I have from VQ to give it a scale look and some shock absorbing when landing.

I am still painting the fuse yet. I want to the fuse all done before going on the wing mods. When the fuse is finished I will post pics of the full cockpit mod and the sliding canopy mod.

Paul
www.rcwarbirds.com

buildflycrash

I ordereed and quickly recived a 12x8 Graupner 3 blade prop from hobby lobby. Painted it black with yellow tips last night. looks Great on the Jug!!

Apple sauce containers?!?! we will use Just about anything I guess. I am going to keep my eye out for something like this I realy want to give mine bigger wheels!!
Scott B.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Awsesome! Can't wait to see what you have done!

sloppy flier

My Feedback: (1)

I had original used some plastic drinking cups cut out and glued into place. But since then I put mine in kind of hard and had to do some wing repair. I did not replace the cups. But flying you will not know the difference. Mine is powered by a .91 TT FS and uses a 15X4W APC prop and the plane is also recovered. I have not flown it in a while but it is definitely time to put it back in the air. My plane requires no weight to balance in the nose. I have an onboard glow and batteries shoved up there so that is probably why.

TOFAST4U2C

My Feedback: (2)

I guys , I wanted to get my first warbird and this looked like a good choice. Should I ??? or shouldnt I???? Are you guys happy with what you get for $229?
Thanks
Jack

Warjet

My Feedback: (327)

These are on sale at Hobby People for $199 now.

speedaholic

My Feedback: (4)

I think this is a great flying plane, but for the price it did require a bit mor work than say a world models arf, but once you get it together it flies great. Ive probably got over 150 flights on mine. it has a ys120fz for power turning a 16-8 prop. strait pipe sounds just like the real thing. has robart retracts, and robart retract tail wheel. its a very reliable and predictable plane to fly. the coverings not the best, edges lift in some spots after a while, make sure to iron all the seams.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

speedaholic: can we see some pics of your P-47? HOw well did your YS fit inside the cowl? Did you have to add any weight for the CG?

speedaholic

My Feedback: (4)

i dont have any pics of it for the computer but the engine fits completely inside inverted. just the short header pip out the lower side, i made a opening on the bottom to let air flow out to help cooling

buildflycrash

TOFAST4U2C Just order one now, I flew several times over the weekend. It is a blast to fly high at ends of runway( we use a 4000 foot runway) and build speed right down low in front of the pits. Pull, spin, pull, turn around, get back down as fast as that saito will allow. I get excited Just thinking about it.

Paul Grubich

My Feedback: (1)

Here are some pics of mine with a Saito 150 installed. It is still in the restoration stages so no flight report on the 150's performance yet.

Prop is a Graupner 15x8 three blade. I am a bit worried about the stock muffler ripping the head off if I do a wheels up landing.

buildflycrash

Paul It s looking great, keep them photos comin'. The 150 looks Just right on the fire wall photo. I did the same paint on my three blade!
Scott B.