bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

from our conversation, Doug said there was a problem with some of the machine parts and it would be a couple of weeks before new ones could be made up, I put my order in a few weeks ago so I was on a list of the fortunite to get a set or rotators that was complete.
it sounds like he wasn't quite ready for the large unexpected demand his gear was going to make.
but a couple of weeks to wait isn't too bad, unless your in need of LG right away.
I havent flown my P-40 on months so a few weeks wasn't a big deal to wait for em.

chistech

My buddie and I take turns flying and landing my H9 Corsair but tired of the rudder breaking on th occassional flip over. He is a master builder and he decided he would build the stab and rudder over. Unseen in the photos is the front spar of the rudder sandwiched by two strips of carbon fibre. One question, what is the preferred CG for this plane. Mine seems to porpoise a little when going to land. I'm not sure if it is balanced to tail heavy.

v6goose

Hey Christech...

Mine balanced right on 5" and flys perfectly.

I have nosed it over twice, both times a gust of wind picked up the tail and I couldn't hold it... I didn't ever break a rudder though.

I use CJM retracts and know that makes a huge difference in ground handling.

Looking for a new wing for spring as I syphoned it through some trees late in the season [&o]

Cheers

Goose

chistech

Goose, thanks for the info. I bought this plane built and it still has the original mechanicals. I really took a good look at them today including removing the wheel well. I ended up doing a lot of improvements and now they work great. It originally had a 3 cylinder saito in it. I put a OS 91, Mcdaniel on board glow, and wired the retracts with a second battery. I had looked up the CG on Horizon and I set it up at what ever it said. I wanted to ask what everyone found is the best because I think mine is a little tail heavy. You balanced at 5" with the gear up correct?

Ted

Craig-RCU

That is a sweet looking replacement rudder! The H9 Corsair was my first war-bird and I flipped it a lot learning how to land it. I fixed the rudder with some carbon fiber rod glued into a hole drilled at the base of the leading edge of the v. stab. A number of things help to prevent nosing over. I learned to land it slower. It will three point very nicely. The slower landing speed and more forward angle of the mains at the AOA necessary to fly that slow make nosing over much less likely. I had an older version of the H9 Corsair that had two loop springs on the main landing gear wire struts. This made the gear bend back too easily and caused some nose-overs because of that. If your mains have two loops on them (newer Corsairs have one-loop, wire mains and are stiffer) I'd recommend adding Robostruts or VQ struts. I used VQ struts and that has helped fix ground handling problems and nosing over.

Mine is balanced at 5" too (balanced with the gear up, tank empty) and flys great.

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

my sweet spot was 4.3/4 with CJ gear retracted .
Nice rudder , is that plywood in the front?

v6goose

Yep, 5" with gear up.

I mixed in some up elevator with the gear down switch to cater for pitch change when landing and greased it in most times on grass.

I never used the supplied gear, I read too many issues with them.

Good luck!

Goose

chistech

Yes, it is covered with 1/64th ply. My friend, Gerry is a professional scrimshaw artist by trade and a phoenomenal model builder by hobby. So all the credit goes to him. He is also a excellent powered and slope soar pilot. We have known each other for over 25+ years and had flown together long ago and then I got out for a while when my kids were growing and doing sports, etc. I just got back into the same club I started so long ago to find out that my buddy Gerry had also gotten out and then back in. Then, I learn he lives less than 1/2 mile from me. My wife says she's tired of competing with the "other one" in my life! We all need best friends and he's a true blue guy. He also paints all of my pilots so life like that you would think they could talk. He won't take a cent but also won't do these things for others. I suppose him being a artist that his work is valuable and my pilots, floats, and plane repairs that he does for me might be worth money someday. Because he is the friend that he is, if I have a plane, it is also his to fly. If he crashes I know that it has to do with the aircraft and not him and that its just a plane model and nothing more. It is definetly nothing to loose a good friend for and that is the way we approach it. Besides, if I crash it, and he thinks he knows a great way of fixing it. He does it. He is a "wood" guy more so than me. Me, I'm a steel guy, so I do all the engine rebuilding, retract setups, etc. The old saying, one hand washes the other.

Garthwood

Charles..............Can you show us some pictures of the gear doors the way you've done it in the past please, thanks.
I have the 95 degs. Sierra retracts. I'm adding flaps at the moment.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Just recieved the following PM, and since I don't have to work today: I'll take a few minutes away from my H-9 B-25 project and answer some of the questions.

"I have read most of the posts about the Hanger 9 Corsair now and I have bought one from the LHS. So, now I have a TF Corsair and a H-9 Corsair.

I want to glass and paint the Corsair so I have removed all the coverings from the H-9 model. I like the mods that you and others have posted for the H-9. I am planning to have the model be the F4U-1A so I will us the canoopy from the TF model.

I may also use the TF cowl or get the fiberglass version of the TF Cowl but I want the cooling flaps to be function. I have read about people doing this. I will need to research this more unles you have a clue for me.

I am also looking at the control surfaces of the H-9 model vs. the TF model. The H-9 made them solid (save the rudder) but the TF ones a framed and covered. As the models are so close in size I was thinking about using some of the TF parts on the H-9. Comments?

Many people made fuctional doors for the wheels in the TF model but I have not seen this with the H-9. Why not? Further the Tail wheel doors should be able to be made for the H-9 model just like the TF model, right? What about using the Century Jet retractable tail wheel?

I am big into scale detail so lights HAVE to be added. Any advice or good threads for adding lights? I have read some light info on the TF Corsair threads. I also have books that show the light locations. Also, after sheeting the open areas on the wings and tail I will add details as listed in other threads.

The first mod I am doing is to update the tail fin and rudder. I had to glue four strips of wood to the top of the rudder on mine to get the right shape. I then sanded the tail thinner and added strips of Dave Brown Carbon Fiber strips to the hinge edges. When I sheet this I was thinking of using the 1/64" sheet plywood. Comments? Any advice on making the trim tab? I cannot find the .7 oz carbon fiber and the web site you mentioned seems to be gone? So, I will use the .75 oz SIG fiberglass unless you can suggest another location for the .7oz CF. The last thing for this is the hinges. Will the CA hinges be fine or should I upgrade to the Dubro Nylon Hinges ?

Take care,
Christopher Thompson"

Cowl Flaps: I have not done this mod on any of my Corsairs, but I know that others have. Serach thru the 'Top Flite Corsair Mods' thread and you should be able to find lot's of info on that mod. Personally tho, I think it adds weight and complication to the model, and is not needed IF for modify the fuselage front (round it off) as I have done on my Hangar 9 Corsair AND my Top Flite Corsairs.

Top Flite Corsair Control Surfaces on a H-9 Corsair:I suppose it could be done. The full scale Corsair has fabric covered rudder and elevators, which is why Top Flite chose to design their kits so that these surfaces would need to be covered (rather than simply fiberglassed). Unfortunately tho, the designers at Top Flite did not follow the full scale drawings very well, and the result is that the Hangar 9 Corsair actually has more scale correct/ authentic outline and profiles on the rudder (and wingtips as well). Furthermore, as I have long advised and others have found to be true: Corsair rudders are subject to a LOT of ABUSE, and tend to break easily. I therefor would recommend building a rudder from scratch, as I have done and others have also in recent posts. The result is a very scale looking, yet more durable rudder than the stock one.

Main Gear Doors: I have installed functional front gear doors on my Top Flite Corsairs (but not the rear main gear doors). On the Top Flite Corsairs, it is relatively easy. The problem with the H-9 Corsair is the stock retracts: they just protrude out of the wing too much to make for an easy front door installation. There is no way to make a door to cover the retract units when the gear is up. Install a different set of retracts and it becomes a different story. I have a set of Lado retracts that I plan on installing in my H-9 Corsair sometime this winter, and when I do: I will also attempt to install functional front gear doors on it.

Tailwheel retract: I have looked at the CJ retract, and it appears to me that the only difference between it and the Robart is that the CJ is made of metal while the Robart is made of a plastic material. As far as to how they function: I would think that would be pretty much the same. A pull-pull steering setup must be used with either, and that in itself is a little bit of a job. As for the gear doors: they are long and narrow, and adding them appears not to be an easy job. I have not done it yet on any of my Corsairs, but others have and I WOULD like to try it. Again, best bet would be wander thru the 'Top Flite Corsair Mods thread', as I KNOW that there is info there on how to do it.

Rudder: That is the exact same method that I use to make my rudders (DB carbon fiber strip, 1/64" ply 'frame'), and the method used by another contributor to this thread. I have not added the trim tab to any of mine yet, but not at all difficult to do.

OK, gotta get back to that B-25 for now. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress

chistech

Just wanted to thank all who gave advise on the CG. I ended up balancing it a 4 7/8ths and I went looking for uneeded lead because it originally had the 3cyl saito. Sure enough, there was a huge chunk buried in the tail with silicone to hold it in. Originally, when I first got the plane and put the OS 91 in it, I had to add lead to the nose to balance. I ended up taking out over 3/4 lb between the firewall and tail and got it to balance with almost no added weight. We went out today in 15-20 mph winds to fly. Not the best conditions but it flew great with no tendancy to porpoise. Every landing was perfect wheel landings and not one nose over. The new rudder is perfect. Don't know about it holding up if it does nose over but with the way he made it I don't think I'll have a problem.

airwolf crazy

Greetings,

Thanks for the information CorsairJock, I will return to reading and continue to work on this project slowly.

Christopher

Garthwood

Corsair Jock........................I read all this thread and some more. I'm fitting my cowl with the Saito 100 installed, unfortunately the Cowl is not quite round, it is distorted at some points. I can't center the prop shaft to the dummy radial. I would like to know if other guys ran into a problem like this. The front of the cowl aims up. Top rear of the cowl at the flaps is kind of squashed, the opposite side (bottom flaps) to this is squashed similarly. Just not working out. Prop shaft cannot get centered to the dummy radial engine.

Any comments to this dilemma ?

Craig-RCU

The full scale Corsair cowl points up about 1 degree with respect to the fuse in front of the canopy. If the cowl won't center, on the prop shaft, the oblong holes that the engine mount screws go through can be carved out a bit to slide the engine in the proper direction. The cowl supports are probably just too tall if the cowl is flattening out between them. Maybe some pictures would help the diagnosis.

Garthwood

Craig rcu............here's a couple of pictures. Any comments.
I had carved out some of the dummy engine front, could'nt center the prop shaft. I might have goofed this one..
I inserted a couple of temp. pieces of balsa over night to adjust the out of round cowl at the flaps, as you can see from the picture.

Garthwood

Hello Craig rcu...............Attached another picture with the cowl off. Blind nuts are glued in.
the green tape for engine mount alignment. Any comments ?.

tevans55

Hi Garthwood-

I have done a couple of these cowls for this plane. It looks from your photos that your engine may be mounted a little high and left of center when viewed from the front. The measured distances (on my screen) from your engine shaft to the inner edge of your cowl are longer at 3 o'clock and 6 o'clock. Your cowl apperars to be on straight when viewed from the side and maybe even slightly up. If all of this is correct then I would suggest moving the engine. The other things to check are your cowl...is it on straight, and your radial engine to see if it is centered properly in the cowl. If you have not attached the radial to the cowl yet it is slightly adjustable based on my experience. Good luck and I hope this helps a little.

PS If you determine the engine needs moved you might consider mounting it inverted and just drill new holes in the firewall. This will however require a new cowl.

Garthwood

Craig RC ......tevans55..........................what's your opinion in regard to the oval cuts that comes with this kit, do you feel that the cuts are off ?.
From my picture it looks like I have to shift the blind nuts to the left and at the same time will shift the engine mount down slightly. If I go the other way it will be worse. Otherwise shift the blind nuts vertical straight down from their present location by about 1/4" or 3/8".

Comments please, thank you.

Craig-RCU

What I would try first is, with the engine mounted to the firewall, loosen the bolts that attach the engine to the engine mount and see if there is any play in the mount's holes that you can use to your advantage to get the shaft of your engine pointed more to the lower right (when viewed from the front). Tighten the bolts again with some lower right, torque applied to the front of the engine. If that doesn't do the trick, you'll have to reposition the fire-wall nuts all the way to the lower right of their slots. That is where mine are positioned. I would gouge out the lower two slots a mm or two longer just to allow some more adjustment room. The upper two slots shouldn't need lengthening because, from your picture, those firewall nuts are further away from the lower end of their respective slots than are the lower two firewall nuts. Partially screwing one of the bolts into each fire-wall nut and giving the head of the bolt a sharp, quick tap with a hammer should kick out the bolt from its glued in position unless you've glued them in way better than you needed to. Remount everything with the engine and engine mount slid as far to the lower right as it will go and check the cowl alignment again.

The upward angle of the cowl on my Corsair similar to yours. I just eyeballed it when I assembled my Corsair. Recently, I measured my cowl angle at about 2 degrees up while the full-scale Corsair's cowl angles up at 1 degree. That is not big enough of an error for me, personally, to redo anything, but you might feel differently for your own Corsair. If your cowl mount blocks are too tall and that makes the cowl flaps out of round and too close to the top of the fuse, then grinding down the cowl mount blocks a bit will increase the distance between the cowl flaps and fuse top while holding the cowl in a round shape. I had to do this to my cowl mount blocks to hold my cowl round. Increasing the distance between the cowl flaps and the fuse top in this manner will make the cowl look like it isn't pointing up so much too.

Craig-RCU

You shouldn't center your firewall nuts in them. The slots are off a bit. I explained in my previous post how to deal with that.

Craig-RCU

I forgot to mention. If after the above process, the engine shaft position still needs some fine tuning, shimming can take care of that. You don't want to start with shimming because that would change the thrust angles too much.

Garthwood

Craig rcu...............Thanks for your input. My blind nuts are glued in. That's not an option as I might damage the firewall in the process of removing them, unless installing a new set adjacent to the present ones. I have compromised as you can see from the pictures. (Sorry one of the pictures not so sharp). I have left the engine mount at its present location, but shaved about 1/8 or so from the two bottom cowl blocks. I have added another block to the top of the cowl. (remember I said that the cowl is out of round in the area of the flaps). I have corrected this by adding the block and at the same time raising the cowl a bit up to center, as you can see in the picture. I might have between 1 to 2 degs. up on the cowl, but it's not noticeable. The prop shaft is now closer to center.

In the Saito engine manual I do not see any 3 blade prop recommendation for the Saito 100. What's best fit for scale flying in the 3 blade category ?.

v6goose

Hey CJ...

I'm trolling your threads looking for pictures on how you filled the gap in the wing roots...

Got any?

Right now I'm thinking of filling the gap with 1/2" medium balsa sheet and sanding to shape... will pick some up on the way home tomorrow.

Cheers

Goose

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

As I recall, I wedged some aileron/ trailing edge stock to fill the gap at the trailing edges. The balsa wedges were placed in vertical (pointing up/ down), CA'd in, sawed off almost flush, then sanded smooth.
The rest of the gap (from the afore mentioned TE stock to the main spar area) I don't recall, but I think I just added some scrap balsa pieces, filled, and 'glassed over.

v6goose

Great, thanks for that.

Goose