LDM

My Feedback: (15)

Rev, great job , looks very very real

Tripower455

My Feedback: (2)

Well,

I joined the cracked canopy club today! Made a perfect dead stick landing, but ran it off into the rough, and it flipped!

Is there a source for these in the states?

BTW, this is really a great flying airplane..... The RCV 120 SP pulls it around nicely...

chickenstik

http://www.nitroplanes.com/cmpzerofi...20-canopy.html

Tripower455

My Feedback: (2)

Sold out.....

Anyplace else?

chickenstik

http://shop.lindinger.at/product_inf...ducts_id=63380

chickenstik

That guy from China is back selling on ebay again! Right now his zero is going for $40. At that price it may be cheaper to buy a whole new parts plane?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=270183506166

Tripower455

My Feedback: (2)

Has anybody in the states ordered from the place in Austria? I couldn't read the shipping policies......

Reverend

My Feedback: (3)

Hi!

Lindinger is one of the two large resellers here in Austria (Something like Tower in the US). They want 20 EUR (about 28 USD) shipping and handling. The Canopy is EUR 4,90 (USD 6,80.-).

They take Visa, MC. COD kosts USD 12 extra.

I order quite frequently from them.

Rev

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

chicken stick , thats willshobby becareful , there ok , they show 100% because they started over , in every bad transaction they say "lieing buyer" lol , thats there mo ,
there planes are good , I actually like them better then CMP , but you never know of your getting the exact description they show .
My seafury stated "retract ready " , not even close !!!!!major rework to the wing

flyer35

My Feedback: (33)

Has anyone used a gas engine on the 120 size and what size did you use. I have a Fuji 46 but think I have to go to the 80 inch size Zero.Have you tried AK models for parts. 80 size is going for $299. I have seen alot a talk about the paint on these CMP Zeros not holding up.

Sturtz

My Feedback: (20)

Have the CMP 120 Zero. Running a Brillelli GT25cc , 17x6 APC on mine. Flys very scale-like . Might go with a 40cc engine I have for added thrust and speed but for now the 25 does the job. I think a few others are running 25-26cc size gassers besides me.
Bull-RCU for one.

chickenstik

http://ak-models.com/mm5/merchant.mv...gory_Code=SPPT

Tripower455

My Feedback: (2)

THANK YOU! I tried getting on the AK site when I first started looking Sunday night, and it always came up with errors........ I figured that they were out of business or something....

I ordered 2.... ! to put on the plane for now, and the other to make a plug. My friend does vacuforming and maybe he can make a thicker one.......

The Raven

Great thread guys, read all of it but didn't note any real discussion on servo requirements. I did see a few pics with HS-475s and 645MGs as well as other servos etc.

I'd like to start on my Zero this week and need to buy servos before the LHS's close for Christmas.

I use Hitec servos exclusively and have no desire to skimp on torque ratings, however; I'd like to keep the costs down. So, which servo would you consider appropriate for this plane? 422s may be a little strained and 475s may be a bit overkill...any comments.

FWIW I'll be using an ASP/Magnum 120 and some solid mechanical retracts (120 rated). This plane will be flown close to scale and not treated as a 3D plane.

PS. Why is it that manufacturers will happily tell you the ideal engine size for the plane but never provide a servo recommendation? All they have to do is say "Recommended servo torque X ounces/Y Kg."

Sturtz

My Feedback: (20)

Most guys use standard servos on warbirds up to 120 size. Others "like myself" make the cut at 60 to 90 size planes. I use mainly Futaba and HiTech servos. For my 90 to 120 size warbirds I use Futaba's standard Hi-torque 3010 servos on everything except throttle, retract valve actuator, bomb drop, etc . Normally use a good metal geared hi-torque for the flaps and I prefer the HiTech retract servos for small planes using mechanical gear. All my 40 to 90 size planes (unless 3/D) get Futaba 3004s. Solid inexpensive servos that if setup correctly and treated in a scale manner have more than proven themselves over the years.
Bottom line is how you fly your warbird. Any model over powered, propped up and flown 80 to 100 mph will have extra stress put on it's control surfaces. No brainer there. Then I'd say don't scrimp on servos , get some metal geared units at least. I also add hinge tape to keep flutter down.
But again,,, on a scale flying warbird within let's say a 60 to 90 Top Flite bird standard servos work just fine. Never had a problem here.

Added a pic of me and my old Dynaflite 80" Spitty. It flys like a big slow trainer. Futaba 3004s all around. No problems ever.
Pics of Zero show servos and belly setup. Plane doesn't need flaps for landing. (IMO) Might look better at a cost in weight. Plus I'm slightly lazy.[>:]

I agree Raven. Would be a nice touch for many if all recommendations were added in the manuals.

The Raven

Oops, already asked and answered. Ignore this post.

The Raven

Cut the wing covering today to trial fit the retracts. Someone at the factory put in the retract bearers the wrong way around on one wing. Had to do some trimming.

I will strengthen the retract area and see how it holds up.

For those who set up the tail as per the manual, has anyone had any problem with this?

I'm considering a pull-pull rudder but still trying to figure out a better/easy way to do those elevator halves. How did you assemble the elevator, attach the horizontal stab first and then hinge the elevators while attaching the wire arms? Seems a strange way to do things. I'd prefer to hinge first (I use dubro hinges, not CA hinges) and then attach BUT this seems impossible with the recommended setup.

Can't it get any more 'fun'? The supplied tank won't fit in the center of the servo tray and my alternative 20oz Dubro tank can't fit without either being higher/lower than the carb.... Any ideas guys?

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

I just put a 20oz tank in mine. Pretty much cut and hacked the servo tray. Heres what I did for the tail linkage and retract mounts also.
Edwin

The Raven

Edwin, I think I'll be cutting a new servo tray so I can better fit the 20oz tank and (perhaps) get those servos a little further back towards the tail.

I like your elevator setup, it is far cleaner than what the manual suggests. Am I correct in assuming you replaced the two wire pieces with a single squared 'U' piece, to which you had the arm fitted? If you have the time a quick description of how you went about fitting it all together would be greatly appreciated.

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Yep, used some 1/8" music wire with some slashes filed in the portion that is stuck in the elevators for glue grip. Slide a wheel collar on before you bend it. File a (small) flat on the wire to give it a good bite and use a 4-40 allen head bolt with some dubro aileron torque rod fittings. The allen head gives you the ability to get it good and tight, so use a strong bolt. You have to angle the 4-40 bolt so that the clevis hole in the plastic torque rod link lines up with the elevator hinge line. So pay close attention to where you file the flat. You wont have equal travel both directions if you dont. I've done this on a couple of other sport planes that worked good for a long time. I wouldnt use this method on a 3D (which I dont do anyway) or wild and wolly sportster. I dont know if it would hold up. I've never soldered it but that might not be a bad idea.
Be very careful mounting stuff behind the cg. I had to build a box over the engine to hold 2lbs of led. Thats with a saito 180 up front. I moved everything forward as far as I could.

Still havent maidened it yet. I had forgotten about the stock tank size and the saito 180 so went back in the shop. The stock tank (470cc) is just under 16oz. About a 7 minute flight. Work and weather have been getting in the way recently anyway.
Edwin

The Raven

Thanks for that Edwin.

The tank in my kit was 360cc, equates to 12oz without calculating it. A 20oz tank will better suit it.

I'm starting to worry about needing so much nose weight. Perhaps I should fit my 25cc Homelite engine, which weighs in at 2kg (4.4lb). Nah, this plane sounds best with a 4 stroke.

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

My total weight came out to 14lbs 3oz. Its back on the charger waiting for the maiden.
Edwin

The Raven

Yikes, I need to come in under 7Kg (about 15 and a bit pounds) otherwise I'll need to have the aircraft certified (Australian MAAA requirement). Looks like I'll need to work on keeping that weight right down...

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Did the maiden on the zero yesterday. Very sucessful. I orginally had a saito 180 in it. With the stock 15oz tank it ran fine at home. I changed out the stock tank and put in a dubro 20oz and didnt check it. At the field, about 3 weeks ago, I couldnt get it past 1/2 throttle. After a bunch of tuning attemps I finally accepted that there was too much head pressure. The tank sits about 1" higher than the carb spray bar. The head pressure was due to the extra volume on the bigger tank. During the debug process at home I had the plane anchored to a concrete 8x16 block. About 20lbs. At half throttle, that saito 180 with a TF 18x8 prop was slowly dragging that concrete block on my gravel driveway. I figured at that point a saito 120 would work fine. So I swapped engines, put in the stock tank and every works fine. Even with the tank 1" too high.
The stall was straight forward and all menuvers were smooth and predictable. Very good inverted flight. Great first flight. Had to reduce rudder throw and tighten a clevis lock nut at the elevator on the post flight inspection. Only other issue is to move the cg back about 4 or 5 mm, it a tad nose heavy. At home it was right on, at the field it appears it gained a little nose weight. Possibly due to the prop change, dont know. I went from a light weight TF 18x8 wood prop to a pretty heavy MA classic 16x8. A bit heavier, but I didnt think it would change things that much. The second flight uncovered a weak spot in my right retract mount. A glue issue thats easily fixed so I stopped for the day. I really like the way it settles in for the landing. Very predictable. Not like my spitfire that at some point on approach it gets unstable if you throttle back too far. A pretty fine line. All in all, I think I like flying the zero better than my spitfire.
Edwin

PE2fan

My Feedback: (8)

Could I get someone to give me the diameter of the cowl? I am looking for a home for a Saito 170 and need about 200mm diameter.

Thx
Micheal