FiberClassics P-51 now Comp-ARF P-51
11-25-2016, 07:52 PM
#2377
The fuse is built up with fiberglass, foam and carbon tow plus epoxy with fill. Do not heat and twist.
If the fuse is defective and you just now discovered it I would definitely contact CARF Andy Kane or whomever and see if they will help you. Doubtful but worth a shot.
The fix for this problem is not going to be fun.
If the fuse is defective and you just now discovered it I would definitely contact CARF Andy Kane or whomever and see if they will help you. Doubtful but worth a shot.
The fix for this problem is not going to be fun.
11-28-2016, 01:41 PM
#2379
Awesome, can't ask for much more!
Actually, now that you posted this issue and before I get much further on my project I'm going to check it more closely!!
I did a dry assembly but now I'm going to do a geometry check.
Thanks for posting your problem!
Actually, now that you posted this issue and before I get much further on my project I'm going to check it more closely!!
I did a dry assembly but now I'm going to do a geometry check.
Thanks for posting your problem!
Last edited by Chris Nicastro; 11-28-2016 at 01:45 PM.
12-26-2016, 01:26 PM
#2381
The issue with the air cylinder for the doors is location. If I say use a Robart 5/8 cylinder with 3/4 in travel that means you have to locate it and make it work. In other words there are many options and many guys have made various cylinders work.
Im going with big bore Robart units and making the stroke shorter to fit the tight location in the wing.
Some have used servos too
Im going with big bore Robart units and making the stroke shorter to fit the tight location in the wing.
Some have used servos too
12-26-2016, 01:56 PM
#2382
My Feedback: (36)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Poland, Maine
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Chris I've built many CARF models, I've tried the Robart , will not work, too large, and I just tried a UP 7/16 x 2" thro as used by LBJ that will not work, I think I must have the wrong one seems the body is too long to work. I guess I'll just keep trying until i find the right one
Last edited by snobird; 12-26-2016 at 02:02 PM. Reason: correction
12-26-2016, 02:55 PM
#2383
My Feedback: (2)
This may help with the inner gear door covers. On a P-47 I used air cylinders that are located on top of the wing with the plunger going through the wing.
The end of the plungers are attached to the gear doors.
You don't see the cylinders, they are inside the fuse.
The end of the plungers are attached to the gear doors.
You don't see the cylinders, they are inside the fuse.
12-26-2016, 06:57 PM
#2387
No can do
The aluminum wing tube goes thru the fiberglass tube. So just cutting into it is not the way to go.
If you bond the wing permanently then maybe it's ok but this is a big wing.
If you're going for scale then I'd remove the tube all together and reengineer the wing spar. That way you get a real nice open area to install the air cylinder in the scale position and length. You can also install the scale landIng light correctly.
The aluminum wing tube goes thru the fiberglass tube. So just cutting into it is not the way to go.
If you bond the wing permanently then maybe it's ok but this is a big wing.
If you're going for scale then I'd remove the tube all together and reengineer the wing spar. That way you get a real nice open area to install the air cylinder in the scale position and length. You can also install the scale landIng light correctly.
01-01-2017, 07:45 PM
#2394
My Feedback: (49)
Sorry snowbird, I did use the U.P. 7/16 x 1.5 inch air cylinder. The 2 inch cylinder was too long. Dream Works exchanged them for me. They do work as one of the RC club members has them and has flown his CARF P-51 with them. He mounted them close to the leading edge vs to the rear. I think it gives more holding power when the inner door is in the closed position.
This is the best shot I currently have of my cylinder install. Where the control horn appears to go "up" on the inner door, I changed that to coming straight out vs as it is in the photo. Didn't give me the travel I needed. Better give that lots of epoxy around that horn also as it will get lots of pressure on it.
Guess I didn't post it here, but the P-51 weighed in at 36.5 pounds (unpainted, but fully assembled as ready to fly) and the CG as it sat was forward of 25 percent MAC. Didn't check it further because that's way too forward for me. I put the wing at the 30 percent MAC mark and it took one pound of lead on the horizontal tail to make it balance there. I then decided to move the three Electro-Dynamic A123 batteries behind the cockpit (they were up at the leading edge of the wing). I think that will be very close to the CG I want vs adding lead to the tail. The 3 batteries weighed in at 1 lb 5 ounces. That and priming/painting on the tail surfaces should move the CG to 30 percent (it's hard to keep the tail light during painting). Ha. I hope it will not go over 40 pounds total weight when painted. Paint will wait until the end of April or early May for it to warm up around here. Got plenty of other projects to do until then.
This is the best shot I currently have of my cylinder install. Where the control horn appears to go "up" on the inner door, I changed that to coming straight out vs as it is in the photo. Didn't give me the travel I needed. Better give that lots of epoxy around that horn also as it will get lots of pressure on it.
Guess I didn't post it here, but the P-51 weighed in at 36.5 pounds (unpainted, but fully assembled as ready to fly) and the CG as it sat was forward of 25 percent MAC. Didn't check it further because that's way too forward for me. I put the wing at the 30 percent MAC mark and it took one pound of lead on the horizontal tail to make it balance there. I then decided to move the three Electro-Dynamic A123 batteries behind the cockpit (they were up at the leading edge of the wing). I think that will be very close to the CG I want vs adding lead to the tail. The 3 batteries weighed in at 1 lb 5 ounces. That and priming/painting on the tail surfaces should move the CG to 30 percent (it's hard to keep the tail light during painting). Ha. I hope it will not go over 40 pounds total weight when painted. Paint will wait until the end of April or early May for it to warm up around here. Got plenty of other projects to do until then.
Last edited by LBJ; 01-01-2017 at 08:16 PM.
03-08-2017, 11:54 AM
#2396
Sooooo, I have all the pieces cut out for the forward canopy section. I can't commit to trying to glue the separate panels in because I can't convince myself that the formula 560 is going to hold good enough. There's very very little surface area in between the plexi pieces, know what I mean?
Can anyone who's really happy how theirs turned out care to share how they did it for a sanity check? did you use something other than 560? did you do the outer panels first, one a time and allow an extra time before release the clamps and moving on to the next piece, etc?
Can anyone who's really happy how theirs turned out care to share how they did it for a sanity check? did you use something other than 560? did you do the outer panels first, one a time and allow an extra time before release the clamps and moving on to the next piece, etc?
