luckymacy

yeah. I rented a house on the water last year at fort point state park and had to drive well over and a half north to a RC field to fly. Not a lot of RC up in that area in general so it's great to see you put so much in to it for your short season.

LBJ

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Finally got to doing some painting. I used English Color 301 grey primer as a base (good stuff) and have both latex and automotive type paints for the finish coats. For the aluminum color, I used English Color Urethane paint with hardener and with some flattener added. English Color added a bit much flat to the paint, but I took some 0000 steel wool and gave it some burnishing to give it some effects of aluminum sheet. Only have the bottom of the wing painted so far, and it still needs the invasion stripes. For the top of the wing, I have Behr dead flat house paint in mil spec OD Green. This has the primer and color all in one and dries out very nicely. I ran a test piece on the canopy frame scrap for the OD Green and Yellow, plus aluminum.

LBJ

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Still chugging along. Got a bit more paint done on the wing half and fuselage. Rain and wind has shut me down the last few days.

Wing got some OD Green Shade 41 from M&M Models paint chip book. Looks the part. Behr exterior house paint computer matched and mixed at Home Depot. Added the white stripe on top of that. Then, with the recommendation of from Mark in FL, I clear-coated the wing with Minwax Matte Polycryllic water based. I put it on a bit heavy and it dried low sheen. Need to go over again with less clear to make it matte.


Invasion stripes got clear coated too.



Fuselage was next up. Got the 301 primer on her. 301 sands very easy. Dries within minutes. Very good primer.

LBJ

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Still at work on painting. Got the fuselage nearly completed. Need a couple more paint masks - Callie Graphics is re-sizing a couple for me - Hurry Home Honey script was too large and the tail serial numbers needed adjustment.




Tested the right wing on the fuselage to see how the fairing paint matches the wing. Not bad. I still haven't started on the left wing, will do that while waiting on the paint masks.

LBJ

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Coming along with the paint job. Did the checker boards today. Big relief to get them done.

Hello82

She's looking superb Lane .... Can't wait too see her all assembled and motor running! So close .

i do love that scheme !

matt

LBJ

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Hi Matt, praise from Caesar!

Looking forward to assembling the MVVS 80cc engine and hearing it run. I've only seen one on YouTube and it runs great. Hope it really hauls the mail.

LBJ

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Got the spinner painted, sanded, and clear coated with Polycryllic matte along with the checkerboards and a few other items. Won't be long till I can begin assembling the engine and Rx into the bird. Most everything else is still intact. And once assembled, I can do another CG test to see where I am vs the initial CG test where she showed to be nose heavy. I'm hoping that the paint on the invasion stripes, Stars and Bars, and empenage will shift the CG a bit AFT and I won't have to add any ballast. I'm looking for 25 to 30 percent Mean Area Chord.

LBJ

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She CG'd at 29 percent Mean Area Chord with no lead needed. Weight is about 38 pounds dry. With all the rain lately, things may cool down a bit and I can get out and run the engine a few times. Temps here in Texas are supposed to be in the 80's for a few days. But, all the rain from the Hurricane will shut me down if it keeps on coming. A pic or two of the finished paint job.

LBJ

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Maidened her on Wed, Sept 13. Short flight, flown by fellow RC club member Barry, since he's a great pilot and flies hundreds of times per year vs my few dozen. We only got 6000 RPM off the MVVS 80cc with 26x10 Xoar prop and that was below what I expected. I wanted to see 6300 - 6500 but didn't get there. After 3 runs on the stand and some taxi runs, I told Barry to give her a GO since the engine was pulling hard on the ground. He took off and kept the gear down, trimmed her a bit, and then landed with half flaps. Perfect landing. But, we could tell there was not enough engine speed to make it a long flight with gear up.

So, I have have 3 new Xoar props on order, 24x10, 24x8, and 23x10, and will try them out likely next week. One of those will give me what I am looking for in a break-in prop. The 26x10 was just too much prop on a brand new engine. I think in time she will be able to run that prop, but not until some break-in. With mid-6000 RPMs we can fly again, retract the gear, and see how she speeds up. Very pleased overall with CG - right on the money, flaps - symmetrically deployed, and just right ailerons and elevators.

One more point, all that engine cooling air ducting and baffle work paid off, the engine ran very cool on the ground and inflight. When Barry landed, I immediately checked the temp and it was just 195 Deg F on the cylinder fins. After flying full power several minutes, that's very cool in my book. Anything 205 Deg F or lower is great.

Barry Ponder, Test Pilot.



Professional Photographer Nancy Abby took this photo at our Big Bird meet last week.

Hello82

sweet and congrats once again LBJ! she looks great !

On my ziroli stang with 3w75 the 24x10 works best , using carbon
prop even gets you a bit more rpm I think for the dollar lol....but I
also use the 24x12 and get 6300...I tried the 26x10 too on her and it
did and felt what yours did, first and last time for me.

Matt

LBJ

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Hi Matt, looking forward to testing some new props. I will find at least one that works. Next week looks promising so hope to get HHH out to the field and have a go. When I find a good prop I may buy a carbon fiber version. But, need to break the engine in some first; things may change as she gets some time on her and loosens up.

luckymacy

Well, hate to break the long silence on this great thread but does anyone know where by now someone has come up with a 3D printed canopy rear cross arch brace? I figure some enterprising builder has done one by now or is seriously on the fence about doing one. If you make one, make two and please contact me! thanks, Lucky.

BobH

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It's pretty easy to make from either wood or styrene plastic.
No need to wait for a 3D printed one.

gmorales

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Thread revival !!
I recently received a brand new P-51 airframe from Comp Arf. Will be using Sierra retracts and most likely a DA-60. I live at sea level and expect to have enough power, but was hoping to hear from anyone else that has flown this airframe with this engine and any honest feedback would be appreciated. I don't care for crazy, high speed, but I want to do big loops and have enough power to fly comfortably.

Thanks,
GM

wfield0455

My Feedback: (7)

I've seen them flown with a G62 and they flew quite nicely. If you're planning to fly in a mostly scale like fashion you should be fine with a 60cc class engine.

chisep51

GM, The new reworked airframe should be lighter using pull-pull controls for rudder/horizonal stabs., but the tail wheel mechanism does add weight, whether it's Sierra or Robart and weight will have to be added to nose. I am working on my 3rd mustang (2 fiberclassic and 1 comp Arf.) powered with 3w 85 inline twin. I installed servos in rear elevators and one Sierra for rudder/tail wheel steering, I will have to add lots of weight in nose to offset. I personally would be nervous about using a 60 engine as paint alone adds lbs. to that big airframe and sometimes you need to power out of potential problems.
Good luck on your build.
Charlie

gmorales

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for the insight, and I'm glad you brought up nose-weight. I am setting mine up the same way with the elevator servos in the tail, and a single servo for the rudder and tailwheel (Sierra) I took the time to weigh up everything I can think that will be in the airplane RTF, minus fuel/paint/cockpit set, and I come in at 26 lbs, which is much lighter than I thought.

Approximately, what are you thinking you will need to add for nose weight to offset the tail ?

GM

BobH

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Weigh the TAIL wheel. Measure from the back of the plane to the CG. Measure from the spinner front to the CG. That will give you a ratio to multiply the tail wheel weight against.
example lets say you have a three to one ratio and the tail wheel weighs 2oz. You multiply 2x3 (your ratio) and that gives you 6oz of nose weight needed as an offset.

chisep51

BobH is right; however, weigh the three servos in the tail as well, then the servo for opening radiator door and if you decide to paint, wow!!. Paint alone added several pounds to my bird. CG is exactly parallel with the leading edge of wing tube, lots of plane aft of that mark. I used Solo prop to get as much weight into spinner as possible, still had to add lead in front edge of cowl, (will have to weigh to get you accurate amt) I placed nim. batt packs, dual electronic ignition packs against rear of firewall.
Calculate choke, throttle, aile. flap. servos in your measurements and lbs add up. This flight was with no paint: After paint, weight 40+lbs. It became a pig!
Charlie

gmorales

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Charlie, 40 lbs! Also, I am not sure if I was seeing it all correctly but it looked as if you really needed some throttle and speed to get off the ground. Beautiful Mustang though !

I weighed everything I can think of: all airframe parts, motor, muffler, spinner servos, retracts, valves, everything.... minus fuel... and my plane comes in at just under 26 lbs. This model was built in mid 2019, per the QC stickers on every part, so this is definitely an optimized molding. I will heed your advice and try to keep as much of my equipment fore of the wing tube. I will, however, be placing the retract air cylinder in the wing, already mounted up actually, it is secure, and nicely out of the way!

Pictures to come once I have more to show,
GM

gmorales

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My CARF Mustang is ready for maiden!

Does anyone have words of wisdom before flying this bird this weekend? I have the CG set right in front of the wing tube, and balanced laterally. Weight is right at 35 lbs dry. Power is a DA-85 on pitts (new motor not broken in, but runs smoothly) There is hardly any right and down thrust to speak of, but while it's barely there at least its in the correct directions... This was difficult to do given the tight, narrow cowl and my desire to have a perfect spinner/cowl alignment. I've done extensive work on ducting to cool the motor and also have cool, filtered air going into the fuse for the carb. After a few shakedowns and taxi tests and all is right.

I will add that I spent this past spring and summer casually flying a Top Flite 1/5 P-51 with success in flight and landing, and hoping that the experience will serve me well for the CARF...

Paint and scheme will happen later next year...I just want to fly for now. Hehe

Thanks in advance !
GM

gmorales

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Ill continue here with a few more...

GM

gmorales

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Would appreciate any advice from those who are experienced in flying this airplane. Things like: how much right rudder is expected on take-off, does not like certain maneuvers, etc.

Thanks!
GM

chisep51

GM, Wow, you didn't mess around. Outstanding build! 1. Takeoff: feed in throttle slow but steady, let the tail rise on its own. I use 15deg flaps. 2. Airborne, after trimming. Be sure to fly away from you where you can see how it's tracking to trim rudder for straight flight, will make landing better. 3. Landing, Slave few clicks of down elevator -> flaps to minimize ballooning effect. Don't float it in, keep power on and fly in. It will fly well with that engine/weight.

Good Luck!

Charlie