Catmandoo1

My Feedback: (23)

G-BBYB,

For your Pull-Pull systems, I am having a hard time finding a bell-crank for the elevator control. Any Idea's.

As for the red tube over the music wire for the elevator controls, what is this?

Also did you make the fiberglass pull-pull bell-cranks that the servo pushrods attach to?

The rudder control horn, that is in the rudder, did you make this or is this also a fiberglass horn?
The wire or cables that are attaching to the rudder, can you elaborate more? In the pictures it looks like string that attached to pull-pull wire on the inside of the fuse. Is there a knot or tie off at the control horn? Can you provide closer pictures?

The mesh screen used in the in the vents, where an I find this?

I am curios what panel line should not be present, as I am new to the Hurricane.

Sorry for all the questions.

Thanks for the help.

G-BBYB

Sooo many questions LOL Hopefully I can answer them all or at least try.

All of the bellcranks and control horns are made from fibreglass board slavaged from some old electrical comms equipment, it is 2mm thick. It blunts saws when you cut it so use an old blade, or be prepared to replace the blades frequently.

The red tube over the music wire is a small section of the nylon tube, in this case its a piece of control snake outer, not sure of the brand but I think it is Sullivan. But anything will do as long as it is a close fit to the size of piano wire you are using.

When you say bellcrank for the elevator I assume you mean the arm attached to the centre of the elevator "U" joiner? this is made from a section of brass strip then it is silver soldered to the centre of a length of piano. I also soldered the collet to both pieces as it held everything square while it was soldered. I then bent the piano wire into the elevator joiner "U" shape, hope thats clearer than it sounds LOL

The line used in the pull pull is actually steel fishing trace, which is coated in a clear plastic. I think you are confusing just a loop with a knot. The idea is that you pass the line throught the brass crimp tube, through the horn, back through the crimp tube. Many people just leave it at that. What I do is pass it again through the crimp tube in the same direction as the last pass through. The idea is that it reduces the possibility of the cable slipping in the crimp. I also run a drop of very thin Cyano into the crimp, and then give the whole joint a good hard pull to try and undo it. With the Hurricane it uses two cable to each side of the horn, I reproduced this and eliminated a crimp showing on the outside by doing the crimping some way away from the horn, inside the fuselage. So you see a single strand going through the rudder horn and back into the fuselage.

The mesha screen, is thin alloy mesh. In the UK it is avauilable in Halfords, which is an automotive shop. You can buy aerosols, and body repair stuff. this alloy mesh is used to repair rust holes in body work, and is usually found near the filler aisle

The panel line that should not be there, is the vertical one directly behind the cockpit. The cockpit is an assembly termed "the Dog Kennel" and the fabric covering the stringers in the rear continue right to the front of thcanopy. That line is present on several plastic kits too. I think it is drawn in because it indictaes a definite change in angles of the surface, but there is no panel line.

The other lines that really annoy me as being wrong and it leapt out at me the minute I opened the box are the stringers. They should allget closer together towards the tail. YT has made it so the lower ones are paralell as are the top ones and the top ones merge into the lower near the back. This is not very accurate at all.




Hope this helps? ask again if I have not been very clear on anything.



Cheers
Danny

G-BBYB

Firstly let me just add having re-read my post. I am not having a dig at YT here. The Hurricane flies like its on rails and is a joy to fly. It gets admiring glances everywhere it goes. So don't take mty criticisms as me knocking this model.

Contact!!!

Danny

Catmandoo1

My Feedback: (23)

G-BBYB,

First, thank you for all the answers.

Second, I don't feel you were digging at YT/KMP. They make a great product and if we wanted a true scale plane, then we we would be building from plans.

There was one question that I think we both got confused on. For the rudder control you are using a pull pull system. In the attached pic, it almost looks as if it is one pice of wire/cable. Looking closer I noticed that there was a knot of some sort at the control horn tying down the wire.

Is the rudder control horn also custom made?

G-BBYB

Yes you are quite right I forgot about that. The horns, including the rudder one are all home made from fibre board. Obviously the rudder one includes both horns as a one piece. Actually a little trickier to make than you would first think because all the holes have to be inline with the hinge line of the rudder also the holes in the horn must be exactly the same distance apart as the holes in the bellcrank that is driving it. As you probably know, otherwise the whole lot binds up when operated.

The distance across the bellcranks from hole to hole are 40mm for the elevator and 25mm for the rudder. You see several people drive pull pull straight from the servo, it seems to work fine, but as an engineer I am not happy with doing that as I like to put the loads where I want, and the top of a servo is noot one of them LOL. You notice as well the tail wheel is operated from the rudder bellcrank, with some shock absorbing springs. This seems to work very well, but centreing is not as good as I would have hoped.

Anyway back to the wire. What I did, and you showing the pics again has reminded me. I wrapped several layers of thread around the pull pull wire, by the horn, this brought the two pieces of wire nice and tight against the horn. A loop of wire standing proud would have introduced some slack. I then dripped a drop of cyano onto the thread to hold it in place.

Well spotted I had forgotten that.

When you come to the wings I have hiddent the flap actuation, and fitted landing ligthts tha come on with the flaps fully down, thats fun. If you are up to it hidden ailerons would be worth doing, I took the easy way out and didn't bother, wish I had......


Anyway, make sure we see you putting this one together, how are you going to power it? it goes fab electric, my setup was under £250 including the charger but for duration ic is probably best, but you will need lead in the nose.

I really love Camm's designs especially the Hurricane, and another one flying is great. Just wish we could get a few up together, that really ould be fantastic.

Cheers
Danny

Catmandoo1

My Feedback: (23)

Mine will also be electric with a similar set-up. A123 cells are not that popular here in N/A, so I will be going LiPO. 12S with Axi 5345 on a Esprit mount. All my previous planes I have built per instructions, however I want to add more scale/custom touches as you have.

For the internal Flap and Aileron controls - can you provide more detail as I have never done this before.

darjen38

Like Danny said we look forward to your build pictures. But I will say this if you do need help just look at the build pictures of Danny's as that was excellent a great help Good quality pictures to..





Hey Danny you can post the money to 34 Hurricane Street. Just Kidding

This Hurricane is a fantastic model looks good next to my Top-gun Spit I must get back into getting my one finished

G-BBYB

All monies gratefully received and stuffed back into Hurricanes

Blimey Darjen good of you to say that, very little point in a piccy if you can't see it, mind you I have been posting some deliberatly fuzzy shots of the radiator sheeting on my Taylor P-51 build, bit rusty at the old stick gluing lol spoilt on Artf's.......

Catmandoo when it comes to the stencils/lettering, let me know, the fee is one of your clubs polo's Got a Florida one a few weeks ago fab idea guys thx

Cheers
Danny

Catmandoo1

My Feedback: (23)

For the internal Flap and Aileron controls - can you provide more detail as I have never done this before.

G-BBYB

Catmandoo, Great I am glad you are going electric, it may not sound right, but nor does a 4 stroke sound much like a Merlin to me, but the smooth power, scale prop, and the ease of operation is great. You are right the A123 are great but the capacity is a stumbling block, not really high enough for this size model.

There are several pics on the thread re the internal flaps, if you need anything else just ask. Though I have a feeling all the ones I took at the time are already up there. As for all internal ailerons that would be a real toughey, there is a method of operating surfaces that the glider guys use called RDS, this basically involves rotating a slightly bent piece of piano wire in a small box in the aileron. the amount of twist deflects the aileron [link=http://www.irfmachineworks.com/rds/]for info on RDS click here[/link] The only way I could see of getting it to work on the Hurricane would have damaged the finish, once again another reason for re-painting from the onset.

Cheers
Danny

dlc2222

Hi there, just completed another month of flying the Hurricane and it gets smoother and more reliable. Finally got the right combination of flap and speed for smooth touchdowns on the asphalt runway. Already have about 60 flights and just put a 3 blade prop from Graupner - 16x8 on the front end. I found a spinner from SkyShark that was uncut and put the right cuts for the blade to fit. Now it looks pretty scale.

Arnold

alanc

glad to see this thread is still active, and all you guys are loving your lovely Camm design, i suppose you will also love the new 81" hurricane just as much when we have finished the design???

paladin

My Feedback: (9)

alanc, i'ld love it! what time frame?

Joe

alanc

the molds are almost ready, i expect it for early next season, probably earlier built up wing/tail, composite fuzz

paladin

My Feedback: (9)

ok, guess i'ld better talk to andew. thanks for the heads up.

Joe

crackajack

HI All,
Just wondering how you guys attached the cowl to the fuselage? I have a heap of weight laminated in the cowl for C o G so I am worried with the vibrations of the YS 4stroke it will pull the screws out. It only screws into thin glass on the body. Any suggestions?

CJ

alanc

this is a fault corrected on later planes it is neccasary to epoxy hardwood blocks behind the screw holes, i personally drill the screw hole through, remove the cowl, re-drill the fuzz/block holes, to take a short length of sullivan golden rod inner, this i tap in, then screw the screw back in, this acts like a rawl plug (sorry, dont know what you call a rawl plug in the states) this then gives a secure fitting to the screw, easy fix, takes no time at all

rc2007

Can anyone tell me the correct scale diameter three blade propellor for the KMP Hurri?

alanc

the prop is 10 foot 9 inches in diameter, i will let you do the maths, wingspan is 38 feet, model spans 71" i will let you do the maths for a scale looking prop, look at the graupner grey three bladers, they are the closest i have found

paladin

My Feedback: (9)

a 20 in three blade prop.

my 1.2 will never turn that? gona need a g38.

Joe

alanc

not in this one, maybe in the new 82" one thats on the stocks, a 38 will kill this hurricane

nicov1978

Hi Everyone,

I will use an OS 1.20 FS in my Hurricane.
I would like to give it a 3-blade propeller, so can somebody tell me:
1. what propeller size I should use
2. Where I can find scale spinners


Alanc,

I see the "propeller end" of the cowl is already anti-torque angled, but can't see if it is also down-thrust angled... Is it?

Can you confirm that I only need to set the cowl straight in the fuselage axis and position the engine according to the angles already given to the cowl propeller end?

Thanks a lot in advance to everyone,

Nicolas

alanc

Just line your spinner backplate up with the cowl front, dont worry, as for props, look at the graupner range, but you will only be able to swing about a 13-14x6, the full size was geared, we dont have that luxury, cannot help on spinners, sorry,

paladin

My Feedback: (9)

Nicolas, mine flys on an o s Max 1.2 4c turning a 15x8 two blade. to get a three bladed spinner you have to buy from some one who will add them or order with no prop holes then cut them in your self. i've cut them in my self meny times, but from experience think about where you will carry your spar three blade? because to fly with a two bladed replacement it has to be without the spinner, and finding a place to store spair three blades is tough (atleast for me).

Joe

dlc2222

Hi nicov1978, I found a good 3 blade prop from Hobby Lobby...its a Graupner and they come in sizes all the way up to 16x8. I have a YS-140 Sport in my Hurricane and after buying an uncut spinner(metal backplate and white plastic cone) from SkyShark R/C, I was able to cut the spiner with a Dremel tool to fit the 3 blade configuration. The 16x8 looked awesome but was a bit to big and heavy for the YS-140. I then went down to a 15x8 and the engine responded better and had the proper RPM.