Check6

My Feedback: (427)

Hi Craig,
I use a single wire usually 5/32 and bend it into a u to joinn both elevator halves. I first file a flat on the wire in the middle. I then slide a wheel collar on to the wire and remove the set screw. I use a 6/32 bolt around an 1 in. long inplace of the set screw. Before the bolt is threaded on the colloar , I place a nylon connector on the bolt. All threads are loc tighted. This makes a nice positive connection with only one pushrod to worry about. I use fiberglass arrow shafts for pushrods. All the linkage for the elevator is internal. You can see the bolt and nylon connector on my tailwheel installation. I used the same set up for that. I use a cutoff wheel or fine tooth circular saw blade on my dremel to cut the glass. Does a great job, very easy cut. Make sure you use a particle protection mask and eye protection. That glass can be nasty. Hope this helps,
Fred

bbuss

I have just recently picked up my KMP Hurricane from their distribution warehouse in Kent WA, and so far I am reasonably impressed. The first thing I am dumping is the retracts. I hung them together just to check them out and with 100psi in the tank they would not retract beyond half way and seemed to have a hard time doing that. So I am replacing them with Robart 550s with 7/16th Robart struts and 4" Robart wheels. I am also planning on using a YS110 engine, so I figure all of the extra weight up front should help with the CG. I agree that the leg angle is wrong and I am planning to modify the mounts to give more forward rake. This will also help the wheels lay flatter in the wheel wells. I am also building a Skyshark Tempest, which also have a lot of forward rake on the gear and the mounts are angled to allow the wheels to lay perfectly flat in the wheel wells, so I will use that as a pattern. The flap linkage as described is used on other aircraft that I have seen modeled that have them in two sections. You cannot glue them together as there is a dihedral between the center section and the outer wing panels which means that they will pull apart as they extend. I agree it looks to be pretty solidly made but I am carefully checking for dry joints where I can to ensure that nothing comes apart when I least expect it. I am looking forward to getting it together and flying it as I think it should be very impressive in the air.

Check6

My Feedback: (427)

Sounds Good, keep us posted.
Fred

Idigbo

Got some photos of my YT (KMP to you boys) Hurricane today, thought I'd post some here. It is basically the standard glass version, without the stickers, weighs in at just over 13 lb, powered by an RCV 91 CD. Flies well and is a joy to land on full flap. You guys must have some mighty quick Hurricanes over there as mine fairy bats on with its RCV 91 and you are all putting 120's up front!!!

Ian.

Idigbo

And a couple more,

Ian

Idigbo

Last two,

Ian.





ps. more pics might appear on our club site, cheers Mark for the pics www.drcf.co.uk

josephair

AWESOME IAN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That last pic with the flaps down is BEAUTIFUL !!!!!!!!

Corbin_AU

Here's my ESM Hurricane (same as KMP), flew for the first time today. Not quite as nice as Idigbo's, but looks like the weather is better over here

spitty

Hey Guys,
didn´t check the whole thread,but did my Maiden-Flight yesterday.
Everything fine,very stable flight performance,only minor things to do.I´m using a brandnew OS 120 III Surpass with pump,think I need a little bit more ´"Dead Weight",I have in the moment around 1,3 lbs,directly above the engine mount,she´s a bit nervous
on short final(tailheavy) think 1,6 lbs will be ok.(I installed the tailwheel into the scale position,maybe 2 oz more weight)
On thing to do: I have to reinforce the Firewall,couse there is a slot between the Front-Bulkhead and the fuselage,so the whole thing is swinging.Will do that with some glass and resin.
It´s really a Beauty, after 52 hours of work You´ll have a nice little Fighter ( I think I did 50 hours for the moving Cockpit section of my DB Hurricane )
Regards and always happy landings
Andy

dragoonpvw

My Feedback: (7)

Is that a G-23/26 on yours? looks like one with the red plug cap.
Good Luck
Paul

Corbin_AU

Sure is Zenoah G26, couldn't fully hide it inside that cowl. I reinforced behind the firewall before assembling after seeing another hurricane with a 120 4 stroke break the fibreglass around the firewall. Great thing is that there is no need to add dead weight with the G26.

Idigbo

Cheers Josephair, the plane just comes in so well on full flap, about 80 degrees, with slight down trim on the elevator, it just sits there and comes in rock steady.

Ian.

nemesis4u

My Feedback: (77)

Just picked up IL 2 Sturmovik Forgotten Battles and there are lots of really cool and different pics and Hurricanes you can pilot I especially liked the WHite and Grey Camo (Russian AF Winter Camo) Scheme with the great big High visibility red stars!!!!!!! Check it out if you can.... www.il2sturmovik.com there are lots of hurricanes and different color schemes...

paladin

My Feedback: (9)

I’ve received a couple of e-mails from people with the retracts that come with these kits that leak so much air that it is impossible to fill the system with air. So I did a search on this site and found even more with the same problem. To this point I had not put air to my set so I did. I put 3 inches of air tubing on the air pump with a pressure gage, using the hose to attach to the piston. The result was the first would retract and stay there but loose 100psi air pressure in about 60 seconds. At 30psi the mechanism would begin to open and at 25psi it would be completely open and locked at 20psi. The second mechanism would leak the air out as soon as I put it in, but if I forced the air in quickly it would push the piston to a point where it would hold pressure and could be pumped to 100psi but this would bleed out in about 5 seconds allowing the mechanism to open just like the first one.

Because they both lost air the first place to look was the seals. This set only has one seal and that is the o-ring on the piston, so I started there. To remove the o-ring I slipped a dulled (sharp edge and point filed off) and well deburred x-acto knife blade in the slot with the o-ring until I was sure it had hit bottom. Then pushed it across the bottom and up the other side until the tip was resting on the other side of the slot with the o-ring over it, then rolled the o-ring off the piston from their. I do not recommend that anyone try this because if you cut rip or tear the o-ring it needs to be replaced. But after removing it I found that the o-ring was considerably smaller than the slot it was supposed to rest in. Just like when we put rubber bands over our wings you notice that when you stretch the rubber band it gets thinner, the same is happening here. The slot for the 0-ring is cut for a 1/16 O-ring but it is stretching so it is just a little bit less than that and the air leaks between the o-ring and cylinder wall.

I have a conditioning oil that softens and causes expansion of the o-ring that should fix this problem. So I unscrewed the cylinder and began to remove all the old oil with q-tips and paper towels. If you do this please be mind full of the fact that both may leave cotton and/or fibers in the areas wiped so be careful. I also had to unscrew the piston to get behind the spring to get the old oil out from in there. Once the piston was firmly tightened on the shaft again, this was done by tightening the piston down until the threads in the piston and cam had bottomed out (I lock tited the threads in the cam). Once the lock tite was dry I put one drop of the conditioner oil on the o-ring and two in the cylinder and screwed the cylinder in place. I then put the parts somewhere I would be passing regularly and every time I passed them I turned them. 24 hours later both held air and any point in the pistons travel.

Now some of you may wonder where to get conditioning oil. Mine came from Rhom-Air many, many, years ago. I understand that Spring – Air was planning to make a similar product but when I checked they did not have it available yet. Or you can get Automotive air conditioning lube. This usually comes in a aerosol can that is not set up for our use so in the past I’ve shown guys how to dump the contents of the can into a dish then suck it up into a syringe (available from the local hobby store). Now with the automotive stuff It is blended to deal with heat as part of its everyday use so the ingredients will be different and probably more affective so once things are sealed up I would once again wipe everything clean and only add one drop to the cylinder then reassemble.

With check6’s info on how much weight he had to add I’ve been working on re-arranging the radio installation to remove as much weight from the nose as possible and hope to post some pictures soon.

Good Luck

Joe

dragoonpvw

My Feedback: (7)

I have a G-26 and if you could post a few pictures with it fitted, then that could be a good option. How does it fly with the G-26? How does it look from both sides. Ihave a slimline pitts smoke muffler on my g-26, it was slated for a super cub and I was going to use a ys91 from my stuka for the hurricane, the only thing is that I can't bring myself to tear the stuka apart just to get the equipment out.
Anyway Corbin, if you have a few more pics of your plane especially around the cowl area and your impressions of the setup then that would be a great help.
Good Luck
Paul

Corbin_AU

A smaller muffler would help, don't know if anything can be done to conceal the carby though:

Corbin_AU

I've only had a couple of flights on it, and since it's my first larger model still getting used to it. It does feel very nice to fly, and has plenty of power. Have the leaking retracts problem so will try what paladin has suggested to fix it up.

BlueMax3

My Feedback: (1)

It's disappointing to hear that the retracts they include with this plane do not hold the air. If KMP offered to sell the plane without retracts, I would go buy a set of real Spring Airs.

Travis

paladin

My Feedback: (9)

Travis, while it is disappointing to have to work on equipment that cam with an ARF, you really need to look at this in context. While GSP does not have a Hurrican they do have a corsair that we can do an apples to apples comparison with. The price on the KMP is $309 while GSP sells theirs for $299 without retracts that means that KMP is selling the retracts for $10. So go buy those spring airs and if they work with a little TLC we can get most of our money back at swop meets or auctions.

Also a heads up on the fuel tank provided with the kit, The distructions call it a 500ml or cc tank well mine only hold 380cc or ml (12.5 Fl. oz.).

Good Luck

Joe

BlueMax3

My Feedback: (1)

Joe,

Thanks for the information. What you say makes sense, and the Hurricane without the retracts would probably sell for $325 or $350 anyway, so I suppose that $399 with the retracts isn't so bad. I plan to buy the KMP Hurricane for Christmas (sooner if my wife allows) and am really looking forward to it. I love flying my GSP Spitfire and the reports are that the KMP Hurricane is a good flyer. I've also decided to use an MVVS 1.60, which will be my first gasser.

Thanks again,

Travis

bbuss

From looking at the pictures posted by idigbo it appears that the flaps are different from the one that I have or in the picture posted by Corbin. The flaps were referenced as being 80 degrees down and the picture taken of the landing with a view of the flaps from the rear shows some kind of fluting on the inner surface. The ones in the picture by Corbin appear the same as mine, which are solid balsa, and the recommended deflection as I recall was 30mm, which probably is about 25 degrees. Are they different???

Corbin_AU

I had the option of using normal aileron type hinges - which I used, or bracket types that allow the flaps to come down further. Will probably carve out some wood from the wing so the flaps can rotate further down.

mfranke

My Feedback: (1)

Hey guys in the USA
who did you buy from?
Mark Franke

Idigbo

BBUS, you have built up wings and tail on your Hurricane, which is indeed how they all come, but mine is one of the pre production versions when the plan was to have them completely in glass, with glass flaps too. Outline and sections are the same, and weight is no different, but they are easier and more economical to produce in wood. My flaps move to 80 degrees, which is great, but the flaps on the production versions are chamfered on the hinge line, and only give about 30 degrees of movement.

An easy way to get more movement is to take the port side flaps, turn them upside down, and bottom hinge them on the starboard wing, using mylar hinges, and visa versa with the other pair. I have landed my Hurricane with no flap and it still is quite predictable, but it lands much faster and needs more space to get in. A mate has the same version as you and has mounted his flaps this way with no problems. My model is the one on the box label, and the handsome brute is me, though I wish I could say it wasn't!!

Ian

paladin

My Feedback: (9)

After reading how check6 had to add 1# of lead to the nose of his Hurri. I did a moment equation and found that by moving all my radio equipment forward and adding a 2oz spinner nut I could remove the nose weight by 10oz (minus the 2oz spinner nut is actually 8oz.). Since the early 80 I’ve been mounting the throttle servo directly to the engine mount. This moves the weight further forward and has never cost me a servo in the five planes I have with the throttle mounted this way in over a 1000 flights combined. But that was just a drop in the bucket with this plane. So I also moved the retract valve and servo out onto the engine mount as well as moving the elevator and rudder servos as far forward as is practical. I attempted top move the two of them up directly behind the firewall and have all the drawings for the servo mounting part but could not answer how I was going to get access to them if I needed to. So they are mounted as you see.

The glue I used to mount the throttle and retract servos is PFM sold by Greg Namie of IMP models. The glue is placed on the servo after cleaning the surface and allowing it to dry then pushed against the engine mount (a Great Planes engine mount) then c-clamped there in position over night. Once dry the linkages are made and installed. I’ve also used R600 (maybe R6000) which I purchased from one of the many national craft store chains but it does not work as well (usually I can peel the servo off with just finger pressure). PFM permanently attaches the servo and the only thing that will remove it is a knife.

Take a look

Joe