Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF
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RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF
Those are all good ideas.
Gives me some more ammo to correct this tail heavy plane!
It will be interesting to get this F8F in the air.
Those little fighters are the best looking warbird
Gives me some more ammo to correct this tail heavy plane!
It will be interesting to get this F8F in the air.
Those little fighters are the best looking warbird
#81
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RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF
I have full confidence that this plane will get off the ground just fine. I'm also sure that I won't need to add dead weight to the nose.
Finally got my pull-pulls hooked up. I took a Dremel with a sanding drum and ground out the areas on the wood former where the cables will be touching and sanded those areas smooth. As a result, I didn't have to cross the cables.
Finally got my pull-pulls hooked up. I took a Dremel with a sanding drum and ground out the areas on the wood former where the cables will be touching and sanded those areas smooth. As a result, I didn't have to cross the cables.
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RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF
Great job Richard,
Could you please snap a pic of the exit of the cables from the fuse.
I need a ball park area to start.
what size pull pull servo arm did you use?
Could you please snap a pic of the exit of the cables from the fuse.
I need a ball park area to start.
what size pull pull servo arm did you use?
#83
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RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF
Attached is a pic showing the cable exit on the right side of the fuse. The cable is rubbing slight on the rear of the exit hole, so I would move the hole rearward, probaby to the middle of the rear stab chord. Also, I made the mistake of installing the control horn slightly too low on the rudder, hence my exit holes ended up too close to the top of the rear stab. There is a block of wood in the rudder for the control horn. You want to mount the control horn as high as possible on that block of wood.
You want to use the longest servo arm that would fit without touching the elevator servo arm because the rudder will need a lot of throw.
You want to use the longest servo arm that would fit without touching the elevator servo arm because the rudder will need a lot of throw.
#84
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RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF
I got the engine mounted. According to the instructions, the engine requires 2 degrees of right thrust. This can be achieved by placing washers underneath the left engine mount. I used a total of four flat metal washers, two on each mounting bolt for the left mount. I mounted the engine 1/8" to the left of the vertical centerline so that the prop shaft would exit the cowl through the middle. The instructions didn't mention anything about down thrust, so I lined up the crankshaft with the horizontal centerline.
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RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF
RICH- nice work so far! Great Pics.!
The two big black plastic washers are for the wing mounting srcews.
Did your Bearcat come with the horizontal centerlines allready drawn on the front of the Fuse??
Mine did not, I`ll have to measure for the center lines.
My wing is done and finished with Great Planes retracts, had to sand down the center brace in the wing where the retract servo tray glues to so the servo could sit lower.
Used 2-1/2" wheels and opened the wheel wells just a little.
Will start on the fuse and stab next.
The two big black plastic washers are for the wing mounting srcews.
Did your Bearcat come with the horizontal centerlines allready drawn on the front of the Fuse??
Mine did not, I`ll have to measure for the center lines.
My wing is done and finished with Great Planes retracts, had to sand down the center brace in the wing where the retract servo tray glues to so the servo could sit lower.
Used 2-1/2" wheels and opened the wheel wells just a little.
Will start on the fuse and stab next.
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RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF
Here's a calculator to help determine how far off-center to get you thrust. Pretty handy little calculator.
http://www.lcrcc.net/offset_calc.htm
http://www.lcrcc.net/offset_calc.htm
#90
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RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF
ORIGINAL: TLH101
Here's a calculator to help determine how far off-center to get you thrust. Pretty handy little calculator.
http://www.lcrcc.net/offset_calc.htm
Here's a calculator to help determine how far off-center to get you thrust. Pretty handy little calculator.
http://www.lcrcc.net/offset_calc.htm
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RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF
What is this 'right thrust' you speak of? What are the consequences of not using it? Sounds like it is achieved by mounting the engine out of square.
#92
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RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF
If you go to this link that Terry provided, you will be able to see a picture of right thrust: [link]http://www.lcrcc.net/offset_calc.htm[/link]
It is the engine thrust angle relative to the fuse. Almost all warbirds have right thrust to counteract the torque from the engine. Otherwise the plane will want to veer left all the time. Most ARF's except this one have right thrust built into the firewall. If you stand this plane on its firewall, you will see that the fuse is pretty much straight up and down (doesn't tilt to the left or right). Hence washers must be placed between the firewall and the left engine mount to angle the engine to the right to give right thrust.
It is the engine thrust angle relative to the fuse. Almost all warbirds have right thrust to counteract the torque from the engine. Otherwise the plane will want to veer left all the time. Most ARF's except this one have right thrust built into the firewall. If you stand this plane on its firewall, you will see that the fuse is pretty much straight up and down (doesn't tilt to the left or right). Hence washers must be placed between the firewall and the left engine mount to angle the engine to the right to give right thrust.
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RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF
Looks nice Richard.
So, I take it you aren't using the supplied plastic wheel well inserts that came with the kit? What did you use to "glass and paint" the wheelwells? I was thinking of using light fiberglass cloth and epoxy. I am somewhat worried about how weak the wooden mounts for the retracts appear. I had a VQ Macchi plane that had the wooden retract mounts blow out through the top of the wing on a soft landing.
I am using the stock size wheels, so I will probably use the supplied plastic wheel inserts.
So, I take it you aren't using the supplied plastic wheel well inserts that came with the kit? What did you use to "glass and paint" the wheelwells? I was thinking of using light fiberglass cloth and epoxy. I am somewhat worried about how weak the wooden mounts for the retracts appear. I had a VQ Macchi plane that had the wooden retract mounts blow out through the top of the wing on a soft landing.
I am using the stock size wheels, so I will probably use the supplied plastic wheel inserts.
#95
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RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF
I'm not using the supplied plastic wheel well inserts because they can't take 3 1/4" diameter wheels. I used 5 oz fiberglass cloth and 20-minute finish cure epoxy to glass the wheel wells, followed by two coats of Model Masters acrylic paint. I also reinforced and glassed the retract mounts.