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Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF

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Old 10-01-2004, 04:06 PM
  #76  
Richard L.
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Default RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF

A 1400 mAH or 1800 mAH Rx receiver pack is pretty heavy and could do the trick if you place it against the firewall.
Old 10-01-2004, 04:29 PM
  #77  
Richard L.
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Default RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF

Root Chord: 13 1/4"
Tip Chord: 6
Wingspan: 53 3/8"

Wing Area = 1/2* (6 + 13 1/4) * 53 3/8 = 513.7 in sq (3.568 ft sq)

Wing Loading = (6.5 lbs * 16) / 3.568 = 29 oz/sq ft
Old 10-01-2004, 04:40 PM
  #78  
Richard L.
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Default RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF

JR 1400 mAH Rx battery pack: 4.9 oz
JR 1500 mAH Rx battery pack: 6.8 oz
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Old 10-01-2004, 06:43 PM
  #79  
Richard L.
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Default RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF

One more idea to add "usable" nose weight:

Stock nylon engine mounts: 1.9 oz
Magnum aluminum engine mounts: 4.7 oz
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Old 10-02-2004, 10:41 AM
  #80  
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Default RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF

Those are all good ideas.
Gives me some more ammo to correct this tail heavy plane!

It will be interesting to get this F8F in the air.
Those little fighters are the best looking warbird
Old 10-02-2004, 01:16 PM
  #81  
Richard L.
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Default RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF

I have full confidence that this plane will get off the ground just fine. I'm also sure that I won't need to add dead weight to the nose.

Finally got my pull-pulls hooked up. I took a Dremel with a sanding drum and ground out the areas on the wood former where the cables will be touching and sanded those areas smooth. As a result, I didn't have to cross the cables.
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Old 10-02-2004, 02:07 PM
  #82  
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Default RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF

Great job Richard,
Could you please snap a pic of the exit of the cables from the fuse.
I need a ball park area to start.
what size pull pull servo arm did you use?
Old 10-02-2004, 03:07 PM
  #83  
Richard L.
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Default RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF

Attached is a pic showing the cable exit on the right side of the fuse. The cable is rubbing slight on the rear of the exit hole, so I would move the hole rearward, probaby to the middle of the rear stab chord. Also, I made the mistake of installing the control horn slightly too low on the rudder, hence my exit holes ended up too close to the top of the rear stab. There is a block of wood in the rudder for the control horn. You want to mount the control horn as high as possible on that block of wood.

You want to use the longest servo arm that would fit without touching the elevator servo arm because the rudder will need a lot of throw.
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Old 10-03-2004, 12:55 AM
  #84  
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Default RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF

I got the engine mounted. According to the instructions, the engine requires 2 degrees of right thrust. This can be achieved by placing washers underneath the left engine mount. I used a total of four flat metal washers, two on each mounting bolt for the left mount. I mounted the engine 1/8" to the left of the vertical centerline so that the prop shaft would exit the cowl through the middle. The instructions didn't mention anything about down thrust, so I lined up the crankshaft with the horizontal centerline.
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Old 10-03-2004, 02:43 AM
  #85  
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Default RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF

I just ran across two big black plastic washers in one of the plastic bags, probably used to provide engine right thrust. I will use these instead of flat metal washers.
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Old 10-03-2004, 04:13 AM
  #86  
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Default RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF

looks good and should fly good to.
Old 10-03-2004, 07:56 AM
  #87  
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Default RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF

RICH- nice work so far! Great Pics.!
The two big black plastic washers are for the wing mounting srcews.
Did your Bearcat come with the horizontal centerlines allready drawn on the front of the Fuse??
Mine did not, I`ll have to measure for the center lines.
My wing is done and finished with Great Planes retracts, had to sand down the center brace in the wing where the retract servo tray glues to so the servo could sit lower.
Used 2-1/2" wheels and opened the wheel wells just a little.
Will start on the fuse and stab next.
Old 10-03-2004, 08:45 AM
  #88  
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Default RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF

Here's a calculator to help determine how far off-center to get you thrust. Pretty handy little calculator.
http://www.lcrcc.net/offset_calc.htm
Old 10-03-2004, 08:48 AM
  #89  
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Default RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF

Looks like I will need to go back to using metal washers underneath the left engine mounts.

My Bearcat did not come with any lines drawn on the front of the fuse. I also had to measure and draw the center lines.
Old 10-03-2004, 08:54 AM
  #90  
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Default RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF

ORIGINAL: TLH101

Here's a calculator to help determine how far off-center to get you thrust. Pretty handy little calculator.
http://www.lcrcc.net/offset_calc.htm
Thanks Terry. That's a handy calculator. I also ended up with 4.1mm offset by taking the tangent of 2-degree and multiplied by 118mm but thought 4.1mm was a little bit too much.
Old 10-04-2004, 07:12 AM
  #91  
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Default RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF

What is this 'right thrust' you speak of? What are the consequences of not using it? Sounds like it is achieved by mounting the engine out of square.
Old 10-04-2004, 09:24 AM
  #92  
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Default RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF

If you go to this link that Terry provided, you will be able to see a picture of right thrust: [link]http://www.lcrcc.net/offset_calc.htm[/link]

It is the engine thrust angle relative to the fuse. Almost all warbirds have right thrust to counteract the torque from the engine. Otherwise the plane will want to veer left all the time. Most ARF's except this one have right thrust built into the firewall. If you stand this plane on its firewall, you will see that the fuse is pretty much straight up and down (doesn't tilt to the left or right). Hence washers must be placed between the firewall and the left engine mount to angle the engine to the right to give right thrust.
Old 10-05-2004, 01:25 AM
  #93  
Richard L.
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Default RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF

I got the wheel wells glassed and painted. I also installed Dave Brown 3.25" diameter low profile light wheels.
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Old 10-05-2004, 09:10 AM
  #94  
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Default RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF

Looks nice Richard.

So, I take it you aren't using the supplied plastic wheel well inserts that came with the kit? What did you use to "glass and paint" the wheelwells? I was thinking of using light fiberglass cloth and epoxy. I am somewhat worried about how weak the wooden mounts for the retracts appear. I had a VQ Macchi plane that had the wooden retract mounts blow out through the top of the wing on a soft landing.

I am using the stock size wheels, so I will probably use the supplied plastic wheel inserts.
Old 10-05-2004, 09:33 AM
  #95  
Richard L.
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Default RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF

I'm not using the supplied plastic wheel well inserts because they can't take 3 1/4" diameter wheels. I used 5 oz fiberglass cloth and 20-minute finish cure epoxy to glass the wheel wells, followed by two coats of Model Masters acrylic paint. I also reinforced and glassed the retract mounts.
Old 10-05-2004, 11:40 PM
  #96  
Richard L.
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Default RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF

Got the fuel tank mounted. I decided to go with Hayes 12-oz tank to make installation a little easier and to get some more flight time. She is getting close to completion.
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Old 10-06-2004, 06:14 AM
  #97  
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Default RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF

anyone put the decals on yet? Anyone have any guides or pictures that might show proper placement of them?
Old 10-06-2004, 06:28 AM
  #98  
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Default RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF

Here ya go.
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Old 10-06-2004, 06:31 AM
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Default RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF

that'll work. How about any wing pics showing where the wing decals go? Thanks.
Old 10-06-2004, 08:37 AM
  #100  
Richard L.
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Default RE: Dymond F8F Bearcat ARF

Here is a picture taken from Testors 1/48th scale kit:
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