BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Lee, I am uploading 4 pictures for you. The first one shows the Stab with the Elevator hinge covers. They are thin ply that is shaped and glued to the stabe TE. The Elevator is notched to clear them when deflected per the full size plane.
The second and third pictures show the Flap section with Robart hinges. These are glued into the LE of the flap on the under side. I hope you can see that they are sufficiently rearward to allow the flap to deflect as it should. The close up (third picture) is in the area of the Flap threaded rod where the servo link will connect with to accuate it. The full size plane uses Friese style flaps that are pretty complicated to copy.
The last picture is the underside flap section of the full scale plane.

heliraptor

Hi Bob

Thanks very much, great help.

I also noticed you strengthened the cut outs on the elevator by gluing extra balsa inside, bit of a tricky job that one I guess.

Nice work.

I'll have some updated pictures of mine very soon.

Is that the stage you are currently at or are they old pictures?

Lee

heliraptor

On a side note,

I have 4 brand new Futaba 9202 servos sitting here.

Originally I wasnt going to use them as they are only 78oz but I read up and if I use a 6volt pack, it pushes the torque up to 98oz.

Any thoughts, too weak ??

Lee

heliraptor

Right,

Flap hinges are in, need to work on the horn area now.

Lee

heliraptor

Bob

Do you have a picture of your Aileron horn area.

I'm a little confused, I have the thicker band of wood inside which presumably is to allow room for the hinge and the horn (With dowel strengthened area). Right next to this I also have a square block glued inside. Any ideas what this is for. I was thinking of using the block for the hinge, and the whole of the thick strip for the horn.

See pic below.

Lee

MEMPHISBELLE

My Feedback: (24)

BobH , I belive the flaps are fowler and the aliron hinging is called friese.

MEMPHISBELLE

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Memphis, duh me.. your right and I had a brain freeze last nite! Fowler was the word I knew was right but couldn't dig it out of my lil brain!

Lee, I put my threaded rod material through the dowel and put a hinge next to it in the balsa. I don't really know why that one piece of balsa is wider than the others in the aileron but it is.

My plane is currently in the state you see, Unfinished! lol. I put the project aside to work on a SE5a for scale masters. Of course that's not finished yet either[>:]. I'm attaching a cockpit picture in case you haven't got one yet. I got it from Dynamic Balsa. I scratch built the Dash but kept the other parts.


Sorry for the Double picture posts.. Don't know what happened?

heliraptor

Hi Bob

Yes I have a cockpit, I bought this kit second hand, unstarted, luckily the guy had sopent out ona cockpit kit plus a few other pieces like a scale prop kit.

I don't know who supplied the cockpit but its pre painted, I'll get a picture in a second.

I just found an addendum on the ailerons and wings, it suggests you put a pece of 1/2" dowel chordwise (LE to TE) tapered, glue it in, then use this to fix on your aileron horn. I'll take a look and see how I go there. It also sugegst using 2" 7/32 brass tubing to extend the Robart hinge into the TE of the wing, so yu can sink the hinge line firther into the aileron. I've made them up, just need to trim the ailerons to fit.

Here's the tubed Robarts and the Cockpit kit, it needs a little perfecting but a very good start !

Lee

mbuck515

sorry my pics are soo late, heres how i did my elevator, its simlilar to bobs but i used lithoplate for the covers and i hingeed them at those points theres one on the outside and two side by side on the inside one. it works very good and i have not had a problem, i dont need to send you my flap pics but i will send you one of my linkage setup for the flaps, i set it up like a topflight, except the arm is carbon and its a partial rib thats in the flap, works good and hides the linkage, the 9202's will work fine on the ailerons at either 4.8 or 6.0v. (and yes i can get that much flap travel)

mbuck515

i guess it wont let me load the pics, i'll try again later sorry,

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Lee, your interior looks good from what I can tell. Mine is a full depth interior and I have a full bodied pilot and sliding canopy.
I used the brass tubes, crimped to the Robart hinges on my Yellow Spit and they work well. I intend to do the same thing this time. You can use aluminum tube instead of brass if your prefer. I don't think it makes any difference.

heliraptor

Hi Bob

Yes, I too have a full bodied pilot on route and will have to hack the tub around and deepen it to fit. I'll need some shots of the floor and cockpit base area if you know of any that show reasonable detail. This isn't going to be a competition model, just a good scale warbird that will get flown regularly so don't need it exact.

I have had a dry fitment of the flaps and I'm really pleased with the movement and how they turned out.

I have moved back to Ailerons and need a check on my hinge line. I've gone by the addendum instructions that show the hinge point line at 5/8" back from the LE of aileron inboard and 1/2" outboard. I marked them up as you see in the picture. Seems a long way back, and my main concern is the slot I'll have to cut to allow the hinge to clear the aileron itself will be visible.

I have attached pics of the completed flap dry fitted, and the hinge line, what do you think of the hinge line ??

Lee

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Lee, hinge line looks fine. You will notice that when the flap is deflected the top side of the wing, towards the Inboard portion, will look different than the outboard. What I mean is that gap along the hinge line is not consistant. I'm posting a picture so maybe it will be more clear. I think this happens because of the shape of the flap section and the TE wing section. They are not the same cross sections, hence the difference. If you look as some other Yellow P-47's you'll notice the same thing when viewed from above with the flaps deflected.

heliraptor

Hi Bob

Yes I noticed that too, especially after attaching the cover strips. Looks awful. Ah well, glad I'm not the only one, thought I'd done something wrong.

I was concerned with the hinge line I marked in felt tip on the aileron if you can see it in the third picture back from the LE.

Is this the same hinge line as on yours (As per addendum) ?

Lee

juvatwad

My Feedback: (8)

The hinge line doesn't need to be that far back, it only needs to be behind the leading edge.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

The hinge line only needs to be deep enought to allow the aileron to rotate to the maximun travel plus a little bit more (to allow for glassing and paint). I really didn't notice the line distance called out for in the instructions so yours may be cok, mine is about 1/4 inch back.

heliraptor

Hi

Okay, I was just going by the addendum, I stated the figures above, and apparently the hinge line should be behind the lead weights glued in the LE.

That is also the reason for adding the brass tubes I believe, as with the hinge point further in, the tube is needed as an addition to the length of the hinge.

Lee

heliraptor

Hi

Rudder hinges are done, I have also mounted the tail wheel retract mechanism temporarily.

Manual states that you should have 2" of travel on the rudder both left and right (4" total)

Currently I can only get 1" either side, the limiting factor being the fuse sides below the elevator, and just a slight touching right at the top of the vertical fin on the sides.

Only way round this is grinding off clearance on the sides, is this a common hitch on the YA P47??

What sort of rudder travel are you guys using in flight ??

Cheers

Lee

heliraptor

Hi

Any advances on the rudder question above ????

Grabbed a few minutes today to sheet out the servo bays and dry fit the retracts. I will be fixing the servo to the wing rather than the cover, so epoxied some 1/8th ply in for the base, also trimmed out openings for the servo wires.

Question - How are the retracts fitted in to the formers. Bolts with a blind nut, or screws ?? The bolts you see in the picture are temporary just gripping into the wood a little.

Cheers

Lee

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

My rudder moves to about 3/16 of the elevator when the elevator is in neutral. I think that's about 1.5 inches each way. I don't remember sanding the fin but if you do it I think it would be ok. I used blind nuts for my Yellow Spit for the gear. I like the machine bolt and nut attachments instead of wood screws.

heliraptor

Hi

Slow going this week, long hours at work killed the project.

Back out this evening, went to start work on the second wing and noticed a problem.

I offered up the aileron to the wing and noticed large gaps at either end, offered the flap up and the gap between the aileron and the flap is too much.

I offered up both wings, measured them from root to tip and they bothcame out at 40 1/8".

Laid them on top and the step between the aileron and flap is out of line.

Did some more measuring (In mm's sorry) and this is what I discovered.

Good wing - TE of wing adjoining aileron 428mm adjoining flap 532mm total 960mm

Bad wing - TE of wing adjoining aileron 434mm adjoining flap 526mm total 960mm

So the large gap I have on the aileron equates to the 6mm differential in the above figures.

Take a look at the images below, what's the best way out of this ???? I was thinking of cutting the step back to match the good wingand re gluing a strip of balsa as the end cap........any thoughts ??

Lee

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

I have a difference in both wings too. My chords arent exactly the same at the root and at the tip. One wing is a little skinnier. I think you can use fill on the bad wing to make it match the good one best you can. That's what I did and its not really noticable now.

heliraptor

Hi

Bit of chopping about sorted the dimensions. Hopefully now the gaps between surfaces will be even.

Lee

heliraptor

Hi

Just finishing up the servo bays on the other wing and sheeting the wheel wells. I'll add some more scale touches to these later, but very soon I'll be onto glassing the wing and horizontal stab.

Lee

Harigo

I am getting only about 25 degrees of travel either way on the ailerons and elevator. Is that enough or do I have to do some cutting to get more travel? This is before I glass the plane.

I am also thinking of using 3/4 oz glass cloth and resin for the wing. What do you think?