Building Top Flite Corsair 60
#27
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Building Top Flite Corsair 60
Looks like a lot has been covered here already, I would like to emphasize one of the points "juice" made: Do some research and come up with a more accurate finish/ scheme. It's really not very hard to turn one that looks like everybody else's into one that has a more accurate finish, looks better, and looks like you really know your Corsairs. Check out my gallery for a couple of examples. All were done with MonoKote, Major Decal decals, and a little bit of white trim (Coverite Presto, etc.).
A Squadron/ Signal book on Corsairs cost less than $10, and is a great starting point for learning about Corsair schemes and details, a small investment compared to what you will have into this project by the time you are done.
A Squadron/ Signal book on Corsairs cost less than $10, and is a great starting point for learning about Corsair schemes and details, a small investment compared to what you will have into this project by the time you are done.
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Re: TF Corsair
Originally posted by william hartman
I am just finising up mine, doing the glassing tonight. It has robart retracts,flaps and the new RCV 120 with a 4 blade prop, currently weighs 9lbs 3oz, everything installed no finish. I also have working frontal gear doors, if your interested I'll send some pictures. Good luck!!! I hope yours and mine fly as well as the all your replies...Bill
I am just finising up mine, doing the glassing tonight. It has robart retracts,flaps and the new RCV 120 with a 4 blade prop, currently weighs 9lbs 3oz, everything installed no finish. I also have working frontal gear doors, if your interested I'll send some pictures. Good luck!!! I hope yours and mine fly as well as the all your replies...Bill
Juice
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ailerons
Juice,
I just saw your last post and thought you (or someone out there) could help me. My plane is built (has been for a while) and I am stuck on the ailerons. I want scale ailerons and just can't figure out how to build & sand for the best fit. Do you have any suggestions or ideas? Any photos or diagrams that I could borrow from? Sounds like our builds have been similar. I wish I had looked at the RCV engines before I bought mt Saito 120.
Any help on the aileron installation would be appreciated. I seem to have a mental block in this area.
David
I just saw your last post and thought you (or someone out there) could help me. My plane is built (has been for a while) and I am stuck on the ailerons. I want scale ailerons and just can't figure out how to build & sand for the best fit. Do you have any suggestions or ideas? Any photos or diagrams that I could borrow from? Sounds like our builds have been similar. I wish I had looked at the RCV engines before I bought mt Saito 120.
Any help on the aileron installation would be appreciated. I seem to have a mental block in this area.
David
#32
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ailerons
Im not juice but I thought I may be of service to you. I too had a mental block when building them.The thing you need to remember is that the pivot point on the hinges is well inside the aileron .You have to notch out up and down on the end to accomodate this.Makes alot better looking plane doing this.I may get a picture for you. Tivey
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Building Top Flite Corsair 60
Tom Kat,
The way I read the plans for scale aileron hinges, you have to sand the trailing edge of the wing so that it's concave 3/16" deep, and you have to add 3/16" balsa to the leading edge of the aileron and sand it round.
To shape the leading edge of the aileron, I made a template of what the wing trailing edge should look like and backed it up with scrap balsa. I use the template to check the shape as I sand.
To do the trailing edge of the wing, I wrapped sand paper around a dowel that had a slightly smaller radius than the leading edge of the aileron. To make sure I didn't sand to deep, I cut a cross-section of the aileron with the leading edge already sanded round. I used this to check the concave shape of the wing trailing edge. The problem was when I got near to the top and bottom corners of the trailing edge the reference for the template disappears. At this point, you know your close so just don't sand too much more.
Do you have balsa blocks glued to the front of the trailing edge inside the wing? You'll need these so the hinges have something to anchor themselves on.
I've attached a drawing (sorry about the quality... my paint program at work does a bad job resizing drawings). Also, browse around my website if you want to see pictures... just click on my "WWW" button below.
Good luck,
Juice
The way I read the plans for scale aileron hinges, you have to sand the trailing edge of the wing so that it's concave 3/16" deep, and you have to add 3/16" balsa to the leading edge of the aileron and sand it round.
To shape the leading edge of the aileron, I made a template of what the wing trailing edge should look like and backed it up with scrap balsa. I use the template to check the shape as I sand.
To do the trailing edge of the wing, I wrapped sand paper around a dowel that had a slightly smaller radius than the leading edge of the aileron. To make sure I didn't sand to deep, I cut a cross-section of the aileron with the leading edge already sanded round. I used this to check the concave shape of the wing trailing edge. The problem was when I got near to the top and bottom corners of the trailing edge the reference for the template disappears. At this point, you know your close so just don't sand too much more.
Do you have balsa blocks glued to the front of the trailing edge inside the wing? You'll need these so the hinges have something to anchor themselves on.
I've attached a drawing (sorry about the quality... my paint program at work does a bad job resizing drawings). Also, browse around my website if you want to see pictures... just click on my "WWW" button below.
Good luck,
Juice
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Building Top Flite Corsair 60
Sounds like a bunch of us are doing the same thing. I started flying in January and the TF Corsair is only my second build. I do plan on at least one more (probably ARF) low wing to polish my flying skills on before the Corsair even sees daylight.
I've been building mine for about a month and I will have the tail feathers finished this weekend and ready to start the wings.
I too have had a bunch of questions and have found almost all the answers right here (Thanks to all those pictures and those that post them).
JLLayton:
I have been thinking about using fixed gear first and then changing over to retracts as you suggested. Since you have done it, could you give me a little disertation how you did it? Did you buy your retracts, install them, remove them, and then install fixed? Or just install fixed and modify later, if so how much prep for the retracts did you do first?
For anyone:
One question on the elevators. The compensation tab (I guess that's what it's called), Should the LE of this tab be rounded or left flat? Neither the plans or the manual are clear on this. I would guess it should be rounded but it would be a royal pain to build it back up if I'm worng
I've been building mine for about a month and I will have the tail feathers finished this weekend and ready to start the wings.
I too have had a bunch of questions and have found almost all the answers right here (Thanks to all those pictures and those that post them).
JLLayton:
I have been thinking about using fixed gear first and then changing over to retracts as you suggested. Since you have done it, could you give me a little disertation how you did it? Did you buy your retracts, install them, remove them, and then install fixed? Or just install fixed and modify later, if so how much prep for the retracts did you do first?
For anyone:
One question on the elevators. The compensation tab (I guess that's what it's called), Should the LE of this tab be rounded or left flat? Neither the plans or the manual are clear on this. I would guess it should be rounded but it would be a royal pain to build it back up if I'm worng
#37
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Building Top Flite Corsair 60
Maiden Voyage,
The leading Edge of the elevator counterbalance is rounded.
As for retracts, I'm using CJ's but they are a bear to install. Also get the Robart adjustable valve to slow the action. The gear will slam up and down way to fast. You will have to decide on which retract you use and do the necessary mods to the spar and mount so the alignment is dead on. Then you can place the fixed gear using the same holes.
As for the TE of the wing and stab,I'm going to use a narrow piece of 1/64 ply to lap over the gap between the control surfaces and the TE to get a tighter more scale looking gap.Pete
The leading Edge of the elevator counterbalance is rounded.
As for retracts, I'm using CJ's but they are a bear to install. Also get the Robart adjustable valve to slow the action. The gear will slam up and down way to fast. You will have to decide on which retract you use and do the necessary mods to the spar and mount so the alignment is dead on. Then you can place the fixed gear using the same holes.
As for the TE of the wing and stab,I'm going to use a narrow piece of 1/64 ply to lap over the gap between the control surfaces and the TE to get a tighter more scale looking gap.Pete
#38
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Forgot to mention...
MV,
I forgot to mention that if you doing the rounded scale thing with the Robart hinge points the axis of the hinge line is recessed into the LE of the Elevator, Rudder, etc. The control horn needs to be mounted accordingly. Rudder and elevator have internal control rods that will need to be moved AFT to the buried hinge line for proper non binding movement. In mine that's about 1/4 in. The plans and instructions don't mention this and other tidbits.
Read and reread to book, measure twice and cut once. Pete
I forgot to mention that if you doing the rounded scale thing with the Robart hinge points the axis of the hinge line is recessed into the LE of the Elevator, Rudder, etc. The control horn needs to be mounted accordingly. Rudder and elevator have internal control rods that will need to be moved AFT to the buried hinge line for proper non binding movement. In mine that's about 1/4 in. The plans and instructions don't mention this and other tidbits.
Read and reread to book, measure twice and cut once. Pete
#39
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scale ailerons
This thread is fantastic, I only wish I had found it long ago. Thanks, everyone. The help I needed was adding the balsa to the aileron LE and sanding the wing TE with one size smaller dowell, I used a 3/4" dowell thinking I needed to match the thickness of the aileron. The good news is I did it on sample stock not the real thing. You guys saved me a lot of frustration. Robart needs a bigger picture on their packaging.
Thanks Again!!!
Thanks Again!!!
#40
Building Top Flite Corsair 60
This is going to make building my red box Corsair so much better. All of the problems I was having with what to do and not do have been asnwered. I can now do a more scale looking hinge line without any dain bramage. I will also be doing a tail wheel retract with doors. Not sure about doors on the mains yet but maybe.
Now if I can just get teh Curare covered so I can get it off the bench.
Dru.
Now if I can just get teh Curare covered so I can get it off the bench.
Dru.
#41
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Building Top Flite Corsair 60
I suggest having and installing the retracts as you build, even if you intend to use fixed gear for initial flights. The retract used in the Corsair is relatively complicated and lightweight, so the sooner in the build that you have it set up and working, the better. Keep in mind that the gear also rotates as it retracts, so you need to know the angle of the wheels when they are extended and retracted, as this is affected by the height and angle of the mounting rails inside the wing. You can't have any binding. It doesn't take much to make them bind. The best way to install the gear mounting rails is with them attached to the gear as they are glued in, making sure you have complete freedom of movement throughout the entire up and down cycle. This way you know the airframe matches your gear. Then you can remove the retracts and install the fixed gear for first flights. If you can't afford to buy retracts yet, then make sure you put the gear mounting rails in absolutely parallel. Then you can shim the retracts when you install them. You also need to, at the least, install your airlines as you build your wing. As for scale ailerons, just think of the leading edge of the aileron as part of a circle and of the trailing edge of the wing as a slightly larger circle that share a common centerline. If you place the hinge-point directly in that center of those circles, then you won't have any binding. As stated by others before, this recesses the hinge into the aileron quite a bit. Good luck!
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Building Top Flite Corsair 60
Devo:
Yea I kinda figured I'd have to have the retracts first. Great explaination of the Alerons, two circles one center, very discriptive
Yea I kinda figured I'd have to have the retracts first. Great explaination of the Alerons, two circles one center, very discriptive
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Building Top Flite Corsair 60
Bob,
What are you plans for the gear doors?
My LHS carries packages from Sonictronic that contain enough hinges for main and tailwheel doors like on a P-51 or P-47. They are spring loaded to open. For a Corsair, one package will not be enough. I bought two.
I've been working on actuating the gear doors for a few weeks with no success. My method also involves spring loaded hinges that open the door. The strut turns a pulley as it closes. The pulley pulls a string that pulls the door closed.
The method can close one door, firmly. So far it cannot close both doors. I still have more fiddling around to do to remove some friction or binding that may be hindering the motion. But this is very tedious work. Once I get frustrated at it, I have to stop until the next day. It slowed down my progress so that I have nothing to show after weeks of work.
I now fully understand why most people do not have functional gear doors for this kit.
Juice
What are you plans for the gear doors?
My LHS carries packages from Sonictronic that contain enough hinges for main and tailwheel doors like on a P-51 or P-47. They are spring loaded to open. For a Corsair, one package will not be enough. I bought two.
I've been working on actuating the gear doors for a few weeks with no success. My method also involves spring loaded hinges that open the door. The strut turns a pulley as it closes. The pulley pulls a string that pulls the door closed.
The method can close one door, firmly. So far it cannot close both doors. I still have more fiddling around to do to remove some friction or binding that may be hindering the motion. But this is very tedious work. Once I get frustrated at it, I have to stop until the next day. It slowed down my progress so that I have nothing to show after weeks of work.
I now fully understand why most people do not have functional gear doors for this kit.
Juice
#45
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Building Top Flite Corsair 60
Hi Juice,
Thanks for responding. My plans have evolved from a servo driven mechanism to a pneumatic actuator to a simple trip wire. The trip wire seems to have potential if I can get the right spring loaded hinges. I made test doors with thin plywood, but plan to make final doors out of fiberglass. I have spent hours tinkering with this problem. I'm not sure it is worth it. Do you have a web site for the hinges?
Bob
Thanks for responding. My plans have evolved from a servo driven mechanism to a pneumatic actuator to a simple trip wire. The trip wire seems to have potential if I can get the right spring loaded hinges. I made test doors with thin plywood, but plan to make final doors out of fiberglass. I have spent hours tinkering with this problem. I'm not sure it is worth it. Do you have a web site for the hinges?
Bob
#48
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Building Top Flite Corsair 60
Originally posted by bob_in_lv
Hi Juice,
Thanks for responding. My plans have evolved from a servo driven mechanism to a pneumatic actuator to a simple trip wire. The trip wire seems to have potential if I can get the right spring loaded hinges. I made test doors with thin plywood, but plan to make final doors out of fiberglass. I have spent hours tinkering with this problem. I'm not sure it is worth it. Do you have a web site for the hinges?
Bob
Hi Juice,
Thanks for responding. My plans have evolved from a servo driven mechanism to a pneumatic actuator to a simple trip wire. The trip wire seems to have potential if I can get the right spring loaded hinges. I made test doors with thin plywood, but plan to make final doors out of fiberglass. I have spent hours tinkering with this problem. I'm not sure it is worth it. Do you have a web site for the hinges?
Bob
I'm putting gear doors on my Corsair. I think he is talking about Sonic Tronic's gear door kit. I personally don't recommend it for the Corsair. The gull wing will not put the hinges at the right angle, to stay open they will have to be 90 degrees to the sheeting. This would look stupid! I have two door packages but after looking at them, it would be very difficult to use. You could use the hinges with my method, but I wanted hinges that were more robust and removable. Sonic sells the door hinges for $24.00 a package and you need 2 for the Corsair! I got mine for $1 a package and I still haven't used them in several years.
Sonic Tronics
The web site is down, not sure if it's permanent.
The Corsair Project
This is my site.
For the gear doors to work the wheel bays must be the scale size of 5" wide. If not, the wheels will hit the doors when they start to retract into the bay. I think this is the single biggest problem for Top Fliters building the Corsair and trying to install doors. Most fail from what I have seen. It is very easy to widen the bay, get bold and start cutting. Then make some extra ribs and glue them in.
Luke
I did it!
#49
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Building Top Flite Corsair 60
Thanks Pete.
Luke, can you send more pictures of the doors and the closing mechanism. Also, tell me more about the hinges and the springs.
Yours look great! What material did you use for the doors?
Bob
Luke, can you send more pictures of the doors and the closing mechanism. Also, tell me more about the hinges and the springs.
Yours look great! What material did you use for the doors?
Bob
#50
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Building Top Flite Corsair 60
Originally posted by bob_in_lv
Luke, can you send more pictures of the doors and the closing mechanism. Also, tell me more about the hinges and the springs.
Yours look great! What material did you use for the doors?
Bob
Luke, can you send more pictures of the doors and the closing mechanism. Also, tell me more about the hinges and the springs.
Yours look great! What material did you use for the doors?
Bob
Luke