scalebldr

My Feedback: (7)

LDM,
i do not understand who you are disagreeing with as I tried to say the same thing as you.adding the right amount of detail to any arf gives it the wow factor.30 plus years ago i built a jack stafford p-39 and modelled it after a mongram p-400 that was called HELL'S BELLS.had the sharkmouth hand painted and a cockpit with inst panel pilot with seat and headrest all markins were painted on and i sprnt hours applying dry transfer letters in all the areas that were indicated by the decals of the plastic kit.it was standoff scale but i flew it all the time flew like a patternship my only mistake was not doing retracts but they were fairly new and expensive for a high school senior to afford.kraft radios were around $400 for 6 channels

a65l

My Feedback: (17)

I just picked up one of these planes myself. I was going to use a Saito .56 I had sitting around, but when I couldn't figure out how to get an exhaust out of the cowl without hacking I went ahead and got an OS .52. The bullet muffler will work much better, and I won't be giving up all that much power.
I also had some problems with the cabane struts. Global sent me a new set, but they look exactally the same as the old ones. I'm not going to bother changing the outer struts, as explained in the instructions, the real SE5a only had two struts, not the diagonal.

I am going to run some brass tubing down the side of the fuse to simulate the exhaust. I can't tell if the real plane had exhausts on both sides of the fuse or just one, I would think just one as it had an inline engine, which would only have had an exhaust manifold on one side.

I did install cockpit coaming, it really neatens up the cockpit area. Still gotta find a pilot, though.

I also made up a scale propellor for display. I routed two 14x8 props so they would fit together, and make on four bladed prop. Looks pretty good, and I would rekon fairly close to the correct siae. Too bad I can't fly with it.

I noticed the engine mount as well, I had a similar problem with a Model Tech p-47. I don't think it's gonna be a problem with the .52, but we'll see.

I'm going to have to make up a scale machine gun as well, plane dosen't look right flying around with no armament. I'm also going to wrap some flattened brass tubing around the tail skid, as I will occasionally be flying off pavement.

I'm really looking foward to getting it in the air... probablly not this weekend.

I'll post some pics when I get it together..

Andy

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Andy, the exhaust is on BOTH sides of the plane. Depending on which particular plane you are building the exhaust goes all the way past the cockpit. Bear in mind that many SE5a's were modified and their exhausts were shortened. Instead of brass tubing which will be heavy try using plastic tubing from a company like sold in hobby shops. Don't forget that you also need a muffler that is larger than the tubing. I am enclosing a picture of the manifolds I made for my Scale SE5a. They are made of balsa and plastic tubing.

RLefebvre

My Feedback: (1)

Because: If you hadn't told me the wing wasn't in the right place *I* would have never known.

But I *can* tell whether or not the thing has guns and exhausts on it.



I work about 60 hours per week, and it takes me about 2 months to assemble an ARF. Just because I'm busy doesn't mean I have to fly a turd.

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

Scalebuilder i was agreeing with you , I was disagreeing with Fletcher , I agree 100% the wow factor is what makes ARFs so much fun . Adding the candy !!!!!
Look at the RC car world , lights , exaust , ect so out of scale but they look great !
This hobby is an allusion , if i want to build a scale 100% correct RC project I would probably hang it up and stare at it .

I save the exact scale for plastic models .

a65l

My Feedback: (17)

Thanks for the info Bob.... I was actually thinking about adding some shorter brass tubing to simulate the individual exhaust runners but decided against it, I'm going for the stand off scale look, but them there exhausts are pretty noticable. The only reason I was thinking about brass for the tubes is that I'll take some nev-r-dull to it and shine 'em up real purty like. Just goes to show them old sailor habits die hard.

Andy

RLefebvre

My Feedback: (1)

Well, I broke in the engine on Sunday. Ran it for 40 minutes. The exhaust manifold held up perfectly. Some in the engine forum said that it would fatigue and break, but it did not. So far so good.

I have to repair the cockpit area, as the balsa is quite thin, and the pilot vibrated and almost broke loose. I think I'll need to glass it or something.

RLefebvre

My Feedback: (1)

Ok, I finally got the plane up for it's maiden flight. I had an instructor take it up first, and he said it trimmed out easily. The plane taxis straight, and takes off easily. No problem at all with ground loops, etc. Once flying, the Saito 56 pulls it along nicely. It's got plenty of pull for climbing, but not much speed. Speed was very scale, even at full throttle, with the 13x5 prop. It can do a loop, but they're not very round unless you do a dive first. It tracks along straight, very stable flyer. I tried some extreme slow flight, and it's like a trainer in that it won't stall, it just mushes forward. I would almost recommend it as a decent 2nd plane. 3rd plane for sure, and makes a great first "warbird".

I have about 8 ounces of lead in the nose to balance at the forward end of the range. I found the plane very very sluggish, and required a lot of elevator in the turns, and it really dives when inverted. I'm going to pull 2 ounces out and try that.

Landings are easy, just fly it down to the runway at half throttle, and cut it when you're skimming the ground and let it touch down. It noses over easily however. Partially because of the forward CG I'm sure. I'll work on the CG before I worry about moving the gear forward.

I attached some pictures, and you'll see the marking changes I made to simulate Billy Bishop's plane. I have yet to add guns and exhaust pipes. I used a brass mesh where the rads are, and opened a cooling hole where the carb holes are some of the full size planes. I also have large vents open in the bottom. I had no cooling problems with this setup, though it was a cool day.

RLefebvre

My Feedback: (1)

You'll see in one of the pictures how I replaced the struts with stained and varnished spruce spars. This is a pretty easy, nice touch. I might do something with the diagonal eventually. You'll also see the aileron link is replaced with a brass link, and custom made brass "control horns". Again, nice little touch.

Now, here's the bad news. On my third landing, I got it down, no nose over, and went to taxi in, but the wind caught under a wing and flipped it over quickly. It wasn't a big deal, but I noticed the covering tore. That's strange... when I got home, I cut the covering away to inspect for damage, and found the spars are balsa. Not very strong. Worse, is that they are notched where the center sheeting is. the spar split right at the notch. Classic stress concentration right there. That's a pretty stupid design if you ask me. Not a huge deal, I'll glue it back. But you have to be careful with that. The wind just flipped it on it's back, and this happens.[&o]

RLefebvre

My Feedback: (1)

Here's some pics in flight:

RLefebvre

My Feedback: (1)

I repaired the damage to the wing last night. I started by gluing the spar back together, then I cut a thick piece of balsa and glued it in between the two spars and front shear web and the ribs on either side. Then I added a new shear web on the back of the spars. A little overkill maybe, but it'll never break there again.

Repaired the bay I cut away with olive drab monocoat and it matched perfectly.

Then I took it out for a flight. It was still way underpowered, I felt, compared to my Cub which has the same engine. I brought it in and checked the engine and it was way rich, only turning 8000rpm. I leaned it out a bit and got about 9500 which is normal with this prop and engine.

NOW it flew much much better. It can do nice loops now, rolls much better. I had also taken an ounce of lead out of the nose while doing the wing repair, and this seemed to help too. The balance point is now around the mid-point of the range. I'll fly it around a little more and make sure it's still good on an empty tank before I take try taking out another ounce.

This is by far the easiest landing plane I have. I think because it's so draggy. You come in at half throttle, fly it right to the ground, and cut the throttle just before touchdown. Gentle as can be, the solid landing gear isn't a problem at all. Then get on th elevator to keep the tail down. It also taxis ok with the ounce out of the nose. You just have to keep full up elevator to keep the tail on the ground.

scalebldr

My Feedback: (7)

Looks great,thanks for the rpm numbers with the 13-5 prop i will see what my os 61 fs will turn before i install it,what brand was the prop?seems to me when i built my sterling c/l se 5 back in 1969 that there was a headrest behind the cockpit that went half way to the rudder.am i mistaken on the headrest?with williams accessories gone now i will probably make the guns out of balsa and dowels like i had to on the sterling kit

RLefebvre

My Feedback: (1)

The ARF did come with a cheesy looking headrest, but it was broken anyway. Plus, the Squadron book shows Billy Bishop's plane didn't have the headrest.

davemartin88

Trying to find a place to buy one of these online, any links? I crashed mine this morning, a total writeoff-- think the fuel line to the carb. came off as I was in a very steep bank. We have some trees that we fly over/around at the field and I was on the far side, making a sharp left turn to come back to the runway, engine stopped and it started down on its side quickly, falling out of sight behind the trees. I gave it some right stick hoping to at least hit flat but must have given it to much as it landed with the right wing dug in to the ground. Not pretty, nothing worth saving other than the motor/electronics-- oh yes, the landing gear was fine. Bought the first one at my LHS and they don't have any more, can order it but thought I'd check on line myself but no luck. I'm flying a Magnum .52FS. Thanks.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/123680.asp

davemartin88

Thanks for the link- backordered but will keep looking elsewhere too.

RLefebvre

My Feedback: (1)

I put two more flights on it Sunday morning. I have to give a WARNING here!

First flight, after landing, I found my upper aileron on the right wing was way out of alignment. That's weird.... turns out, that the lower strut mounting tabs on the right wing had pulled out of their sockets! And so the wing had deflected upward, and the aileron joiner had pulled the top aileron down.

Luckily the whole wing didn't fail in flight. Upon inspection, there was very little glue on the tabs. I 5m epoxied them in place. Better give yours a tug!



On the second flight, I had a bit of a hard landing. Not really bad at all, I got within a foot of the runway and cut power, and it dropped onto the runway hard. It rebroke the upper spar. I've now opened up the upper wing even more, and I'll glue spruce spars to the balsa spar.

scalebldr

My Feedback: (7)

instead of spruce alongside the balsa you may want to cosider carbonfiber strips on the vertical sides of the spar ca'd in place.really strong and holds well with ca very light repair usually just a saw blade notch in the rib will allow room for the carbon fiber strip.How did the landing gear react on this last landing,almost sounds like the shock from the gear was transmitted up to the wing.

forestroke

RLefebvre - those are really wonderful pictures. while much credit is due for a magnificent model, equal applause for the beautiful picture taking.

a65l

My Feedback: (17)

Strange you had so much damange from a hard landing. My elevator linkage broke on the third flight and the plane nosed in fairly hard on an asphalt runway. IT must have hit at just the right angle because all that happened was the landing gear bent. Not even a scrape on the cowling! I did find one of the wing struts tabs pulled out of the wing after flying last weekend, but just glued it in again. Great flying little plane!

Andy

RLefebvre

My Feedback: (1)

The carbon fiber probably isn't a bad idea! Only thing is, will you see it through the covering? Since the covering gets sealed right to the spar...

Oh wait, you said vertical sides... Great, I'll try that! Can I glue it overtop of the shear web on the front of the spar?

The landing gear was definitely a factory, no doubt. I've "spoinked" my TT Decathlon down harder than this many many times, and the worst that happens is the gear bends. The gear is rigid on this thing, so you really have to set it down lightly. It's not that the gear transmitted the shock... it created it!

Andy, nice B/W photo, that's cool. I don't think it would have normally been this damaged from that landing, but the spar was already weakened, since it'd broken previously and I obviously didn't repair it very well.

Forestroke, that's our club's photographer George Mock, he's pretty amazing. I always get compliments around here when I post his pics. In fact, these ones aren't nearly as good as he's capable. You should see his pics of my cub!

forestroke

RLefebvre - is that a thunder tiger cub? beautiful... one of my favorite favorite planes... i really want to have one but the massive wingspan (larger than my 120 size planes) makes it impossible. i think that plane with a saito twin would have to be the nicest plane available on the planet...

RLefebvre

My Feedback: (1)

Nope, that's an H9 Cub. 80". Amazingly, I can get it in a Subaru Imprezza which doesn't even have fold down seats, just a pass-through.

scalebldr

My Feedback: (7)

If the shear web is on the front of the spar put the carbonfiber on the rear and on the rear part of the spar and a piece on the shear web.just for the heck of it take a piece of 1/4 sq balsa and break it,then glue it together with ca and add a 1" strip of .010 carbon fiber 1/4 inch wideon the vertical side.then try breaking it again.it will break somewhere else.for added strength you cand add a small strip on the bottom of the spar to form an "L" shape tohelp with side loads on the spar.

forestroke

RLefebvre - if only i could get H9 here in taiwan. i haven't found anyone that carries yet... just the occasional cheap cherokee or imitation p-51. that cub looks awesome.