Moggy

My Feedback: (9)

I have been working on (mostly off) a Yellow Spit for some time now. I have convinced myself to finish it once and for all. I am putting a 3W60 up front. Can anyone share some photos of the servo set-up for the major controll surfaces. Pull-Pull on the rudder? If so, tiller arm? I want to keep it as simple as possible yet not sacrifice the aircraft. This is my first fiberglass fuse. Thanks.

heliraptor

Hi

Not mine but this may help you out I'm sure.



Evos website (Stunning work) take a look at the Spitfire pages.

[link=http://www.evoshangar.com/]Evos hangar[/link]

Lee

Moggy

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks, I've seen it. I guess he's using pushrods for elevator and rudder.

SpitfireMKI

My Feedback: (2)

Moggy,

I plan to use two elevator servos (Hitech digital) on one CF pushrod and then pull-pull for the rudder. I can adjust the deadband on the elev. servos so they don't fight each other. Set up will be very similar to Evan's but really need to consider ease of getting to the batteries, air tank and fuel tank.

I also plan put the elevator servos under where the scale radio normally sits. That will reduce the stuff near the fuel tank. I realize there will be a small penalty with the extra tail weight but it results in a shorter rod and less cockpit floor problems in addition to the other stuff. ES335 has some excellent ways to fit this stuff in and make it accesable and removeable.

Are you gonna knock the firewall out and do your own ?

Mike / S1

"You're not a fighter pilot, only officer's are fighter pilots, not real spitfires, what about your top button ? Anybody can do that !"

Shaun Evans

Evan,

Can I have your permission to use photos from your site? Your site, and your building, is incredible.

t_burley

My Feedback: (59)

Shaun the best bet to get Evan's attention will be thru email from his site,
he doesnt hang here much now. I will be talking with him this weekend, and
will let him know about your request

Moggy

My Feedback: (9)

I guess Evan is the brainchild for this aircraft. I have checked out his work and I am in agreement with everyone that he's the man. He has been kind enough to email information on the installation of 3W60i and I have seen his work on his site. I would like however to get a shot of his setup with pushrods connected and all the plumbing hooked up. He told me that the firewall does not have to be replaced just cut so the carb can enter. He said I will need to shim the engine mounts about 1/4 inch. I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel because from what I can see and have heard, his setup is the way to go.
"You know what to do with the lame ducks."

MarkShapiro

My Feedback: (52)

Here is a brief look at mine. I have a ton of build sequence photos for my Yellow spit.

Moggy

My Feedback: (9)

Mark, Thanks. I would appreciate any build photos if you wouldn't mind sending them to me. I'll PM you with my email address. If I recall you did yours up in Israeli AF colors and had a 3W up front. Did you go with a 50 or 60?

MarkShapiro

My Feedback: (52)

You have a good memory, Moggy. I actually have a 3W-70 in mine. As I said, I have alot of photos. If there are general areas that you are interested in, it would be alot easier to segregate them and send those to you.

Moggy

My Feedback: (9)

Mark

What are you using for pushrods on the rudder and elevator? I would like to see what you did in the tail wheel area as far a connecting the tail wheel and rudder to the pushrod. Also, do you have anything on how to get the tail wheel doors to open and close. This is my first bird with a retractable tail wheel. Thanks!!

MarkShapiro

My Feedback: (52)

Moggy, I used a carbon fiber rod for the elevator servo and a pull-pull set up for the rudder. The tail wheel is controled using a nyrod hooked up directly to the tail wheel and joined with the rudder servo, via "y" harness into the rudder plug in to the receiver. the attached image shows the middle servo for the pull pull, the servo ont he left is the elevator, and the standard servo ont he right is the tail wheel. I got a little lazy at the end and never put in doors for the tail wheel.

SpitfireMKI

My Feedback: (2)

Here's a neato tip for that tailwheel steering. Get rid of that Y harness !

On my Futaba 9C (This is on my mustang) I set it up so that my TW steering servo is in it's own channel and then set it so one of my center knobs is a trim for the TW. That way I can adjust for different surfaces.

When in flight, you don't want the servo moving the TW around inside the plane creating a potential jam. Mix the retract switch to the TW servo. Set the mix to have zero travel on the TW servo when it's turned on by the retract switch. Liking it yet ?

Now for the bonus kicker, when taking off, since you usually have gobs of right rudder in, your TW retract can potentialy jam as it is retracted due to the TW also steering right. Since the above mix gives the TW servo zero travel when the gear is retracted, the TW centers itself as the retract goes up ! Yeah buddy ! Gotta love the versitility of 9 channels and mixing !

Mike

Moggy

My Feedback: (9)

Nice job Mike, I'm printing it out so I don't forget. I'll need a bloody degree in computer science by the time I'm done with this one. Cheers!

fw190d9

My Feedback: (1)

I guess my ears were burning.
Shaun, feel free to use any of the pictures on my site, except those in which one or more of my kids are present. There are 2 pics of my yellow spitfire with my girls and I would rather not have those reproduced or placed on another site. Feel free to use any of the other pics.

Moggy, I am using a pushrod for the elevators on a single Fut 9204. 103 flights and no problems. I am using a pull pull on the rudder and a metal 4-40(long) pushrod for the tailwheel steering. The elevator pushrod is made up of 2 central hobbies carbon pushrods that I connected with a carbon sleeve to make it longer. The sleeve I made of a carbon pushrod that has the same inner diameter as the outer diameter of the central hobbies pushrod. The pushrod does not interfere with the cockpit and runs between the pilot's legs. Gota get as much weight up front as possible on this bird, and just one little servo makes a big difference. Hope this helps,
Evan Q.

Moggy

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks to all of you guys for your input. Any photos of the tailwheel doors and how those bloody things work? Mark, maybe I too will get lazy and leave them off or just down.

Moggy

My Feedback: (9)

Sorry to bother you guys again, but, did you keep the six bolt prop hub on the 3W--? All my props are drilled for a single bolt. Now I'll have to buy new props and drill them for six bolts. Survey Says.......................?

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Hi Moggy
I think that you have a center hole anyway, even with the six hole bolt pattern. I have drilled all mine out to the six hole pattern.
Sam

IFLYRC-RCU

My Feedback: (28)

Mike ..

Thanks! I was just rying to figure out how to "disable" the tailwheel servo while in flight.

Super.. now I can just copy you !

SpitfireMKI

My Feedback: (2)

Moggy,

If you're going to set the firewall back, contact tru-turn for a 1.25" hub extension. ES335 had one made from them that utilizes a 10mm single prop shaft.

Mike

Moggy

My Feedback: (9)

Mike, I'm not going to set it back if I don't have to. It's just a pain in the ole keyster to have to drill new props. Tried to get into rcscalebuilder today, denied. Maybe they're updating it.

t_burley

My Feedback: (59)

if you are not a member, you canntot access. we changed this on March 1st

SpitfireMKI

My Feedback: (2)

Can you deal with all the motor hanging out spit buddy ? Are you projecting a date to finish ? I'm thinking my goal this spring/summer is to get the wing done, then the fall and winter for the fuse, early spring for paint. Sooooooo 2006 she should be ready and Jean Maridor will fly again !

Mike

"I was wrong about the poles ! "

Moggy

My Feedback: (9)

Mike, Do you think Evans hangs out too much? It's just a little of the cylinder head and sparkplug. According to Evan he didn't have to build another firewall. Am I missing something here Evan? I have the wing built and primed with retracts and Glennis tires ready to go. Once I suss out the fuse and setup (almost there) it should be a matter of detailing and painting. Should be ready to go to Warbirds over Delaware this summer. Now the piloting part........"Spring chicken to ****ehawk in one easy lesson." Don't think, LOOK for the *******s!

SpitfireMKI

My Feedback: (2)

Moggster,

We'll have to hook up at Delaware, I plan on being there with at least two of my birds, no spit yet, but like wine, good things take time.

I think there's too much on Evan's, the nose of the spit is so important to the look, I just want more tucked away, that's why I was thinking of the 3W50, long snout and a shorter head. The power is like a G-62 from what I am told so it should fly fine. 3W claims it'll spin a 22x10 or 22x12, that's the same as my sachs 4.2 and precision eagle 4.2, they're flying 30lb + planes. The Spychalla's fly excellent on those ZDZ40's and the amount that hangs out on their's is minimal. I refuse to buy anything from RCShowcase though.

Looking at the specs on the 50, it's about 1/2" shorter on the head and about 4mm shorter in length. That 1/2" could make all the difference. I am still up in the air as far as this goes. When I get to the engine mounting, I'm going to make up some foam dummies and see where it leads me.

MIke