SBR_RV

well thought

Connery

Once I finish making sure everything is straight I will use the ribs as a template for the other set of ribs so I don't have to reinvent the wheel for the other wing half. I'm not sure what to do about the dihedral brace though. Should I just shorten it to where it just runs from W1 to W2 in the original location and be done, or shorten it and then add an additional one at the new spar locations.

US185Damiani

Personally
I would add a new one where the 2 extra spars join also are you going to add a top spar to each new one and add shear webbing?
that will give you a very strong mod with little extra weight.

Connery

Yes, the top spars are not in place because I ran out of material. 2 of the 4 spars that came in the kit were badly warped so I'll have to get some additional wood before I can continue. I think you are right, I'll just put two dihedral braces in each new spar location and that should be plenty strond enough. With the addition of the webbing, the whole wing should be pretty strong.

SBR_RV

i would add another one to the new spar locations. proberly not a good idea to have one spar which falls short of the recomened lenghth.

Connery

SBR J, thats what I think I'll do. I will cut down the original ones and put them in their original place, and then cut more for the new spar locations.

Connery

Here is the progress I made today on the left wing. You can see the the area between the two sub spars where the landing gear well will be. The landing gear leg will angle back just forward of the center spar where it starts at rib W4. Most of rib W3 will be cut out to make gear well. The last picture shows what the gear well should look like when it's complete.

Connery

Slow going lately, only managed to get the other wing half framed up and the two wing halves joined. I plan on installing the retract mounts and then start on the sheeting this weekend.

Connery

Finally got the upper surface of the wing sheeted.

Connery

Wow, can't believe it's been this long since I made some progress on the P-47. I had to wait for retracts (using the the new "spring-air" units from Robart). While I was wating on the retracts to become available, my kids got me hooked on a computer game called "HALO". Once I started playing it, I couldn't stop When I started playing it online, the people I was playing against were mostly kids and others in their 20's. The couldn't believe a guy who's almost 40 was kicking their butts [X(] Well, I finally got the retracts in, and still let the project sit due to my obsession with the game. It wasn't until I recently ran across a Craftsman Scroll Saw on clearance at Sears for $49 that I finally got the urge to do some more work on the P-47.

So here are some pictures of what I accomplished this weekend. Using my handy new scroll saw, I was able to cut out the landing gear plates and the rib reinforcement plates very easily. Since I have redesigned the wing structure to incorporate the scale landing gear location, the supplied kit mounting pieces wouldn't work, so I had to redesign everything. All in all, I think it turned out well and I can now turn my attention to the flaps and scale aileron hinging.

ramcfarland

My Feedback: (44)

What A plane and GOSH one of you has a Satio 150 4/C and I thought my 120 W/A pump was a big deal on low pass with the coal poured ons...

Connery

That "flight-metal" really looks good on there. Next one I build I might just have to give it a try.

mkeigwin

My Feedback: (18)

hi there i think you did a good job on the wood cutting ,
i am working on one of the kits also . just finishing up the fuse now and will be starting the wing in the next few days .

ramcfarland

My Feedback: (44)

WE are excited about your scale 1/7 P-47 build---

I must be about the only dummy in the group of "47" builders not to change the gear retract geometry in a scale like manner .[sm=lol.gif]

Connery

Making the wing design change and resulting issue with redesiging the gear mounting is what has held me up for so long. But now I'm over that hurdle and can get on with finishing up the wing. I was a little concerned about the large wheel (3.75") not fitting fully into the wing since it won't be laying flat when retracted. So last night I cut the center rib out where the tire will be and set up the gear. I set it up with the gear extended and the main wheel having just a slight toe in. Then I retracted it to see what my clearances would be. With the gear retracting at an angle, it puts the leading edge of the tire at a higher point than the trailing edge. So after I retracted it and laid a sheet of paper over it to simulate the wing sheeing and gear doors, I had PLENTY of clearance. I was so happy I forgot to snap a pic of it NOW I wish I had gone with the scale looking Century Jet gear [:@] Oh well, everything I've learned on this smaller version I will put into a larger more scale version

Connery

More progress. I have the ailerons mounted but not finished out yet. I used 1/8" aircraft ply for the scale hinges so they will function as the fullsize "friese" ailerons. I haven't decided yet whether to put a servo on each aileron, or use a single servo at the center of the wing to control both ailerons.

camdyson

Don't feel so bad Richard - I found out about the retracts too late too!

Packing up the rear rails at least keeps them forward when down - hopefully will help reduce pecking a bit!

Cheers,

Cam

p.s. Weathering finished, and FINALLY got some 2-pack clear so should be cleared this W/E ready for re-assembly of all the gear and engine.

mkeigwin

My Feedback: (18)

i have been working hard on mine also . but for this kit i will build as the stock kit . i have 7 top flit kits and i haven't built a plane in 10 yrs. been into heli but now back to plane s. 2 week and this what i have done . keep up the good work . mine is almost ready for the glass .

Connery

Cam,

Your weathering and detail look excellent. I just hope mine turns out as good. I really like the scheme you did on yours. I really wanted to do a scheme with invasion stripes but most of the ones I found were all natural metal finishes. Since at the time I couldn't find a suitable OD green model with stripes like you have, I chose the "Dallas Blonde" of the 325th because of the colorful markings and nose art. However, the next one will definately be one with invasion stripes.

mkeigwin,

You progress is looking good. Post more pics as you make more progress.

Connery

Made some more progress on the wing. I finished the scale hinging of the ailerons, and got one of the flaps done. All I have to do now is finish the other flap and run the airline for the retracts and I can finally close up the wing.

dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

Connery, Great job so far, I have one of these and if I ever get to building it I'll add my version of these mods! I'm a little concerned about the durability of a plywood hinge point in that small of scale. Did you ever try and use PC board material? It's readily available on the internet for a very affordable price. Anyway it's water under the bridge but I would definitely purchase some for your larger P-47, you just won't use it for hinges once you start using it! To avoid flutter on the ailerons keep them as lite as possible toward the trailing edge. I usually glass mine with light cloth and thin CA, then fill the weave with thinned spot putty.

Need some 1,000 lb bombs or the old discontinued drop tank let me know.

Keep up the great work! I'm enjoying this!

Dion

NCFlash

Connery,
Great work, you have a gift for detail!
I noticed in one of your earlier post you are planning to keep the elev push rod in the fuselage. Your idea looks good but I was wondering how you planned on connecting the rudder internally?
I recently ordered the kit and your suggestions/ideas will be definitely be used.
Pls keep the pics coming.

ramcfarland

My Feedback: (44)

I did not know flutter was an issue with either the 1/7 or 1/5 . On my (1/7) I use a servo for each aileron : both servos installed in wing center section and linkages per Top Flite there is no play /slop and never flutter the servos are coreless MG the only thing I would trust to a performance aircraft period

Connery sorry for the mis wording or what ever. But from the get go if your linkages can easily wear THEN you could have flutter so best corrected now with PC board.

ramcfarland

My Feedback: (44)

[quote]ORIGINAL: Connery

That "flight-metal" really looks good on there. Next one I build I might just have to give it a try.
[/quote

Hi Connery thats my 1/7 alright but it is finished in "Presto chrome" AND Flite Metal . If you go Flite Metal[sm=thumbup.gif] suggest you prime and fill the .06 or .75 glass cloth with a 2-part Urethane primer;this method ensures an egg sheel finish ->trust me on this one!

ramcfarland

My Feedback: (44)

MK it looks nice,I love the P-47 build as in frame up[sm=lol.gif]