JazzRC

I'm willing to send anyone who's interested a DVD of this thread organized into roughly 100 different MS Word files; topics ranging from Antenna to Zenoah engines. Just PM me your mailing address. I am asking for a $3 donation for shipping and materials. The information shared on this thread is amazing and I find it very helpful with my build.Pictures show the documents found on the DVD.
Happy building, Jim

funcars

stephanmk1,

I really like the British Fleet color scheme you used on your Corsair. Can you tell me what you can about the details of the paint you used like the brand, color number, and how you applied it? I'm in the final stages of glassing mine and now looking at the final colors. Anything info you can send me would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Gary A

stephanmk1

hello Gary!

CHEVRON PERFECT PAINT[extra dark sea grey+std british navy green.. all flat finish]..too bad perfect paint do not exist anymore...I used a simple spray gun or an air brush from Badger...the corsair is all glassed with epoxy finishing resin with 3/4 oz cloth.

good luck !

stephanmk1

You should go for WARBIRDSCOLORS on the web. They have all colors/paints for British Navy and more.It's easy to use and give excellent results.

pappy 883

My Feedback: (2)

JimboGringo,
That was a nice save on your second video. A wise decision to keep the gear tucked in.
Not much damage I hope ?

jimbogringo

Hey Pappy, no damage except for scratches and a broken prop. I´ve changed the previous post, so that the videos are sorted right

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

EVERYONE MUST BE REALLY BUSY WITH THEIR BUILD PROJECTS,

ITS BEEN ALMOST 2 WEEKS AND NO ONE HAS NOTHING TO SAY

IVE NEVER SEEN IT LIKE THIS.








GEORGE
CORSAIR Brotherhood # 1

Thunderbolt47

My Feedback: (8)

Hey Goerge, the new would be builders are waiting on the ARF LOL

craigcrumpler

My Feedback: (20)

how many ways to spell that "word"?

donnyman

Hello!

I received a dvd from jazzrc and it is worth having, it is full of the info everyone ask for and is done up very nicely, if you like corsairs you should get a disc!

and he is practically giving it away.

DONNY

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

I like give aways... what's on the disc?

Auburn02

My Feedback: (1)

Well I guess I can share some of my progress, or the lack of progress to be more specific...

As I mentioned on an earlier page I picked up this plane framed up. It was missing some parts for the ailerons, flaps, and rudder so I had to order a few die-cut sheets and make some parts from scratch (I ended up making ailerons that probably weigh less than the die-cut aileron base sheet alone from the kit).





I also bought the Robart main gear and a sweet tailwheel from Sam. One problem with the tailwheel is my kit was already set up for the Robart tailwheel, so I'm having to hack away through the bottom of the fuselage to make room and get rid of the unnecessary weight back there.



I need to finish shaping the second aileron and I suppose the next logical step will be to build the flaps, though I haven't decided just how I want to hook those up yet. Leaning towards an external pushrod like the ailerons based on some of the negative feedback I've ready here about the hidden linkage the kit calls for. After that I'd like to get the tailwheel in and get the plane up on the main gear, so I can finish sheeting the wings and work on the gear doors.

Question: I'm not planning on a pilot figure, at least not yet, but I don't want my canopy attached with unsightly #2 screws either. Any tips on how to have the canopy semi-removable but without causing excess damage? The thought crossed my mind about doing the sliding canopy, but I just don't know if I want to tackle that with this model.

donnyman

Vasek

go back to post 8281 and then talk with jazzrc.

Auburn02

My Feedback: (1)

Well I had to change my plans. I was building the flaps but I can't build the inboard flap before I make the belly pan, and I can't make the belly pan before I sheet the bottom of the wing and fuselage, and I can't sheet the bottom of the wing and fuselage until I have the retracts figured out. So onto the retracts.

Installed the gear rails in the wing last night and took a saw and a dremel to the back of the fuselage to gut the factory tail wheel mount. I suppose I can go ahead and sheet the bottom of the wing now, or should I cut out the rib sections for my wheel wells first?





Oh, but I can't finish sheeting the wing til I decide how I'm going to handle the flap servo. It's all intertwined! I think I'm back to trying to go with the flap servo/pushrod per the plans, but using a pie shaped piece of ply to connect the flaps instead of a piece of wire.

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Cobra....Now's a good time to start thinking ahead for you it looks like. If you are adding gear doors, now is the time to add some reinforcing ribs at the edges of the gear wells which will give you something to mount the door hinges too rather than just the sheeting on the wing bottom. I would also rec. that you at least cut through most of the die cut cutout markings on the ribs for the wheels too. I wouldn't remove them entirely yet as it will give the sheeting some purchase and help in keeping the sheeting smooth before you cut it out for the wells and doors to go in....but it will help to leave yourself not much material to cut through to remove them after sheeting and forming the door glass. Personally, doing it over, I would scratch the entire flap hookup per the plans too. I would use the nice surface mount hinges from Dino at Meister Scale and just run a control horn with a backup plate as you would on other control surfaces vs. the hidden linkage on the plans. It will give you more torque and more free moving flaps...something that can be a challenge on these flaps.

Someone asked about door templates earlier too....PM me if you want. I've got a PDF file...and it's been crazy popular. Must've emailed them out to 20 different guys now.

Mike

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Lets do this an easier way for those in need.....just make a note of the page in the thread and print them out after *****g out the picture in the bottom right corner of the pic after clicking on it. They are attached full size, so they should work easy enough...if not. PM.

Mike

Auburn02

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Mike. I took your advice and went ahead and added an extra partial rib for the inner walls of the wheel wells - since the outer wing was already sheeted I will have to piece in the outer walls after the sheeting is cut away for the doors.



Then I went ahead and started sheeting the bottom of the wing. After I had 5 of the 6 pieces on I realized that maybe I should have run my retract air lines beforehand, but it shouldn't be too hard to fish them through.



As for the flaps, is the existing flap hatch big enough to add a slot for the servo arm and mount a servo to the underside of it like the aileron servos? I'll have to look into the Meister Scale hinges. I know I remember seeing that someone had used them on this thread but I can't remember who or where to look. Hopefully my cd from Jazz will be here soon.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Cobra99

About the flaps the hardest part is getting the hing's alined, then the rounded edge on the center section, to get nice smoth movement. wather you use the wire or a wedge between flaps is then easy. if you use the wedge a piece of flat abs plastic works great and flexes so no real alinement problems

On the air lines I would suggest getting them in as soon as possable as getting around the gull can be a bit of a problem.

If you are planning gear doors I would shave the gear beams about 3/32 th get the room and clearnce you will need this also will require you to trim the pin that comes out of the rotating ball to keep from punching a hole in the upper surface.

But like Mike said PLAN ahead at least 3 steps as it saves alot of redoing things.

Cheers Bob T

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

Lot of experts on Corsairs on this thread. What would be the correct size for the prop nut 1/5 scale? 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" dia ?

Thanks v.

saramos

The full scale prop hub is 9.5" diameter. This would be 1.9" at 1/5 scale.

Auburn02

My Feedback: (1)

Which would in turn be about 1.66" for the Top Flite Corsair, since it's actually about 1/5.7 scale. I'd go with the 1.5" prop hub. I was wondering that myself, so thanks for the full scalle size saramos!

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks guys! I'll go with the 1 1/2"

It's for a BH with a wingspan of 90.94" and 68.90" long. What scale would that be?

P.S. I hope you guys don't mind I hang around even though I don't have a TF Corsair, but you are the best regarding any Corsair build...

Cheers, V.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hay Vasek

For my part don't mind a bit and all ways looking for new ideas and way to do things.


and please post pic's of your build

Cheers Bob T

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

Bob, don't get your hopes up it's an ARF. But I will be installing a Robart tail wheel retract. It's NOT a Corsair if can't retract the little wheel & leave it sticking out just a little I'm looking into installing a radial 4 stroke.

After maiden, I will also install a cockpit. The 1/5 TF could just be the ticket.

Cheers, V.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

V

Don't know if you have the room but one of the guys made plans on how to build a scale tail wheel rettract unit that would fit, and from the fellowes that have them they all have worked well.
I think I still have a good file on my system after the computer crash, if you are intersted I'll try to look them up and send them along to you

Cheers Bob T