GROUP BUILD - Top Flite Giant Scale F4U Corsair
#9502
I'm working on cutting new ribs and center section spars because as you know George, this was an. " already started" kit that I bought at a decent price ( never again.) and the wing had some warp to it. Then, to make up my mind for me, it got knocked from a high shelf and got pretty banged up. I'm still working on my other project, but in the mean time cutting new parts for this. It will still be a while before I'm fully into the corsair, but it's something.
#9503
I'm working on cutting new ribs and center section spars because as you know George, this was an. " already started" kit that I bought at a decent price ( never again.) and the wing had some warp to it. Then, to make up my mind for me, it got knocked from a high shelf and got pretty banged up. I'm still working on my other project, but in the mean time cutting new parts for this. It will still be a while before I'm fully into the corsair, but it's something.
#9506
That's the other thing George. Some of the guys work looked ok, where some of it was terrible. I wouldn't have been very comfortable just assuming that it would stay together. The one thing that bothered me the most was that he used 5 minute epoxy in high stress areas like the gear rails. Also, in my opinion, there shouldn't have been nearly as much damage from the fall off of the shelf. The glue joints were very brittle. So, I pretty much had no choice if I wanted to ever fly this bird. I'll post pics once I have something to show.
#9507
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Willimantic, CT
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Hi Steve,
Chances are the guy you purchased the plane from realized that he was in over his head lacking the experience to build a plane like this,and decided to take the loss,
Yes, I would like to see some progress pictures.
George
CORSAIR Brotherhood # 1
Chances are the guy you purchased the plane from realized that he was in over his head lacking the experience to build a plane like this,and decided to take the loss,
Yes, I would like to see some progress pictures.
George
CORSAIR Brotherhood # 1
#9508
Yes George. I'm thinking that's exactly the case. He used CA in places he should have used epoxy, used 5 minute epoxy where it should have been 30, stuff like that. The wing will be completely re built, but the fuse can be saved other than a few pieces of sheeting. I may also re-frame the tail as it feels a bit heavy to me. I know I can build it at a much lighter weight. He also didn't frame to accommodate a cockpit, which is a must. It's all part of the fun and learning experience. (learned not to take in rescue planes) . I'll post some pics soon.
#9510
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Willimantic, CT
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Zeeb,
I was thinking about you just last week. the picture of your plane can you give us some info on it? it looks good,I wish I had a brother like you.
I'll be sending you a PM.
George
CORSAIR Brotherhood # 1
I was thinking about you just last week. the picture of your plane can you give us some info on it? it looks good,I wish I had a brother like you.
I'll be sending you a PM.
George
CORSAIR Brotherhood # 1
#9511
My Feedback: (6)
Hi all
Steve glad you are moving ahead with you Corsair even be it slow, and that is not a bad thing.
Zeeb I am with George pic's and some back ground.
Well I can add a bit of a up date on my repair, finally got the other stuff off the bench and getting started on the Corsair glassing, as I am trying to keep the weight down by not glassing the flap segments I will save about 2 oz aft of the C/G, the rest of the control surfaces I covered with stitts fabric. I hope to have the fuse done and sanded ready for primer by the end of next week.
Cheers Bob T
Corsair Brotherhood # 6
Steve glad you are moving ahead with you Corsair even be it slow, and that is not a bad thing.
Zeeb I am with George pic's and some back ground.
Well I can add a bit of a up date on my repair, finally got the other stuff off the bench and getting started on the Corsair glassing, as I am trying to keep the weight down by not glassing the flap segments I will save about 2 oz aft of the C/G, the rest of the control surfaces I covered with stitts fabric. I hope to have the fuse done and sanded ready for primer by the end of next week.
Cheers Bob T
Corsair Brotherhood # 6
#9512
Thanks Bob. I've been doing some thinking the past couple days as to weather or not to continue with this corsair, or to scrap it and buy a new kit. A lot of my thinking was pertaining to the fact that this was already mostly framed up when I rescued it, and the original builder hadn't figured for any of the details Id like to add such as a sliding canopy, retractable tail wheel. Stuff like that. So, what I came up with is to carry on with the rescue bird, without a lot of the details Id like to add, and use it as a sort of test bed for the new kit I'll be ordering. I'll keep it light as I can, glassed and painted with panel lines and rivets, but that's about it. There would just be too much involved to try and do it the way I'd like to. I'm also going to try and save a few bucks with this one and attempt to use the ABS cowl. The new kit will get the FS cowl. Being that I'm totally starting over with the wing, I'll be able to have the gear doors and what not.
#9513
Here is the current state of the F-4U. All I did so far was to demo the outer panels. Still need to take the ribs out of the center section so I can make templates. Other than that I mostly did a lot of thinking, which I can't post pics of. But here it is.
#9514
My Feedback: (41)
I'd had it sitting in my basement for over a year trying to decide which engine I wanted. The big Saito FG84-3R was having issues noted in the forums and Horizon said it would not fit the Corsair, then Peter Goldsmith started showing up at various meets along with 3 other Horizon guys and the Corsair prototypes, his model had the big Saito in it so that answered the question of whether or not it would fit. But it still had the issues with the two lower cylinders running rich while the top cylinder was too lean making the transition really slow and not acceptable to me. Then a guy named Fred Culbertson (condor060) put the engine on one of these Corsairs and didn't like the way the thing ran so he got with a gentleman by the name of Ray English who's done a lot of engine design work including F1 race car engines. They modified the Saito's intake system, put a brass bushing in the main con rod (it's just aluminum on the steel crank of the factory version) and got Kelvin (Keleo exhausts) to build a ring for the engine. The results are amazing an the mods were licensed from Ray by Saito for inclusion in the new 60 size radial. Here's a link to a YouTube video describing what was done and the performance changes including how the thing sounds which is just cool as h*ll and the engine I put in this Corsair has those modifications....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffUehgpp8Ug
The Robart gear looked okay but with my experience on the AW P-51, I went to the Sierra's and they were a bit of work for the guys (I got a couple of retired friends who've started building models for something to do and some extra income, to put the model together) to get installed as Darrell (Sierra) does not have a gear for this model so these are actually for a P-40 but they look great and work well. It's also got all the gear doors on it and the ordinance mounting pylons which can mount either the bombs or fuel drop tanks and those can be dropped during flight if you want. It's got a pretty nifty cockpit (not exact scale but pretty close) including the pinup card on the instrument panel.
I'll post some more pics for 'ya as requested.
#9515
My Feedback: (6)
Zeeb
That is a vary impressive Corsair and you have done a great job with it. but I have to admit I am not a fan of shiny so when I get to the paint on my repair it will be kinda ruff looking as I am also going to try to teach my self how to do weathering with a little battle damage repair showing, that is just me.
cheers Bob T
That is a vary impressive Corsair and you have done a great job with it. but I have to admit I am not a fan of shiny so when I get to the paint on my repair it will be kinda ruff looking as I am also going to try to teach my self how to do weathering with a little battle damage repair showing, that is just me.
cheers Bob T
#9516
To each his own. That's one thing with this hobby, scale is in the eye of the beholder. I personally prefer battle worn, but I'd still love to fly the poop out of that shiny one. Lol. So, it looks like I can re use the center section spar and leading and trailing edges. There all straight and match up perfectly on the plans. Only thing I can think of is that the original builder didn't have them pinned down tight to the bench and subsequently built the warp in. That's alot less work for me.
#9517
My Feedback: (6)
Hi Steve
From the pic's the spar's look good, I am soure you've looked them over ,but just make sure there are no missing glue spots in the laminates when I did my first one I used 30min epoxy and after the crash and did a separation check and found some bad spots and I had clamped them beteeen 2X4 with c-clamps, when I built my current one I wetted the wood just lightly and used tite-bond same 2X4 and clamps and I was able to see a slight trace of glue squeeze out all around. just my thoughts
Cheers Bob T
From the pic's the spar's look good, I am soure you've looked them over ,but just make sure there are no missing glue spots in the laminates when I did my first one I used 30min epoxy and after the crash and did a separation check and found some bad spots and I had clamped them beteeen 2X4 with c-clamps, when I built my current one I wetted the wood just lightly and used tite-bond same 2X4 and clamps and I was able to see a slight trace of glue squeeze out all around. just my thoughts
Cheers Bob T
#9519
Hey George, the paint is latex from Menards, they have those $2 samples so I had the paint mixed to match the Testors FS colors. Not 100% sure the colors are correct though, they seem to be darker and the intermediate is more towards gray. Im using both an airbrush and detail gun to shoot it. Once I figured the correct pressure, and used a heat gun immediately after shooting, the paint laid on nice. I have to let it cure for about a week then go back and touchup a few areas, then cover it all with Klass Kote. The bottom of the wing has to be masked for the white still, but I want the paint to cure so it sticks to the wing and not the tape.
#9522
Do not be fooled by photos when it comes to color. Lighting, camera settings, even camera brands can effect the color, not to mention your graphic card and monitor. When I get color chips, I am always hard pressed to find any photo, online or in print, that comes close to matching. That's why a lot of guys do not inlcude color photos in their docs for competition, just color chips.
Scott
Scott
#9525
Hey Bob, thanks for that tip on double checking the spar. On first glance it looked tight , but held it to the light and saw just a sliver of light. So I stuck a 1 inch putty knife in and sure as you know what, she popped. It was glued like it was the last bit of glue on earth. Glad you had me recheck it.