rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Steve and now you have a problem, what will stick to those 2 surfaces, you maybe able to sand the surface and get some thing to wet out .So keep us posted on how you make out.

Cheers Bob T

stevegauth30

After many hours of prepping, I feel confident in the results. I was able to re use the two birch ply layers as the builder only put a few quarter size globs of epoxy. I first sanded the heck out of it with 60 grit until flat, which roughed up the surfaces pretty well, next I ran one of those " wood pecker" tools across both mating surfaces. I even took a razor knife and cross hatched them. I then pinned in a few spots with tooth picks. I'm certain that eventually I would have encountered a massive wing failure if I haven't. I feel pretty good about it now. I'm cutting new forward and aft spar doubles now and marking the layout. Soon enough I'll fire up the band saw and begin cutting new ribs. I'm taking advantage of the " blizzard of 15" and putting in some hours today as I don't have to work. Anyone besides George getting hammered with snow today?

acdii

Wish I was, then I could be working on my Biper

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

And I had to work this morning no snow hear been in the upper 30's low 40's sence Friday last.

Bit of an up date on my repair, got the horizontal .vertical and the belly of the beast glassed. now a little sanding around the edges and I can finish the top, next will be the wing.

Now I have a question for you what is a good rattle can primer, I am thinking first coat as a fill the weave and as I am trying to save as much weight as possible, I am not looking for a real smooth surface as I will be using Nelsons paints for the color

Cheers Bob T

stevegauth30

I prefer duplicolor, as I think a lot do also. I've also had good luck with rusteoleum high build. Pretty much anything you use will work well with nelsons paint. That's great paint in my opinion.Bob, what kind of finishing resin are you using?

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Steve I like west systems I find it vary easy to use and do all of my mixing by weight at 5 to 1. had 2 bad experience's with Z-poxy and one other don't remember the name just that the pot life was to short for me.

Cheers Bob T

Ps I have used duplicolor on strirene lay up so will give it a go.

stevegauth30

I also use west. I like the 105 resin and 206 hardener. You weigh it? I use the mini pumps with it. Perfect batch every time. I like the z-poxy for little repairs and such.

US185Damiani

acdii

those colors are accurate.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

The same for me picked up a nice digital scale at harbor fright and the nice thing is you can use the 205 hardner for quick lay up's. After by bad experience with Z-poxy I stay away from all of the brand. but that is just me, use what works for you

Cheers bob t

stevegauth30

Have you tried MAS Epoxies? It was ok, but I prefer the West Systems. It flows better.

acdii

Yeah! thanks.

On Primer, I get the quart and reducer of Duplicolor. Mix and spray as I need it, found it less expensive than the rattle cans.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Steve
Like I said don't remember the brand, but the only thing I did not like was the short pot life when mixed. What I got was a sample kit as at the time I was not glassing a bird just making cowls ans some wheel pants for a flying buddy. I am so OLD I still use some old style resin so I do what I am comfortable with

Cheers Bob T

acdii

I still have a quart and a half of the stinky stuff, I should use it up on some practice molds, see how well the parts hold up compared to the WS epoxy.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Acdi

Back when I worked for the old convair aircraft plant in San Diego except for a gel/coat that is all that was used, now I only use it in a pinch

Cheers bob T

Nordicz

My Feedback: (7)

Bob,

For a rattle can primer I have had great luck with Krylon. It doesn't quite have the build up potential as Krylon or Automotive mixes but what I like about it is once cured there seems to be no chemical re-activeness that I have seen with using Rustoleum or Ultracoate. I've had a couple of bad experiences with them. I don't currently use any two part products but if rattle can is the preference I personally like Krylon.

Z

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Well guys I am still a long way from ready to paint, as I am going to have every thing finished, and just trying to think ahead. So thanks a bunch for your suggestions and as I am trying to save as much weight as possible I will most likely just use 2 coats sand between and go for the color coats. not looking for shinny and I am going to try to teach my self how to weather, another reason not to spend a lot of time on the paint, if I screw it up that is just the way it will be, I just want to get this bird back in the air.

Cheers Bob T


Cheers Bob T

cjray

My Feedback: (25)

You worked for Convair? Very cool. I've liked the F-106 ever since I was a kid. This was a few weeks ago @ Robbins AFB, an F-102, and F-106.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

cjay
The experimental virsion of the F-102 was called model-8 and if was not super sonic, and after test flights it was brought back into the shop and the hour glass shape and new leading edges added, then it punched thru the sonic barrier with no problem and then went in to full production at that point I had been shifted to the pogo/stick build. and that was a long time ago

Cheers Bob T

Ps I got a ride in a T/F-102 from San Diego up to the test facility at Edwards, What a thrill/rush about 20 min.

cjray

My Feedback: (25)

That is very cool! Thanks for sharing. I'd still love the opportunity to get a ride in one of those.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

The only way I can describe it is it was a hoot

cjray

My Feedback: (25)

I bet it was!

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Well another up date

Fuse is glassed, now a lite sand , and then It is the wing, but the shop is so messed up I think I am going to have to do the annual cleaning first. Then I wont be able to find my A#$ tools.

Cheers bob T

stevegauth30

Good to hear you making progress Bob. Get that bird back in the air where it belongs. An update on my scratch built wing, the spar has been re-worked and prepped, the four sub-assemblies forward of the center spar have been cut and laminated and are ready to go, and all of the balsa ribs for the center section are cut and ready to go. I have four ply ribs to cut and the reconstruction can begin. I know the feeling Bob. When I clean my shop, I can't seem to find a thing. But ask my where something is now, and I'll reach under a pile of stuff and voila, there it is.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hay Steve

Your last post reminded me of a coupla of the problems, if you are going to gear doors, Rib T-1 needs to be faced/baked in the wheel area with ply and then you need to make a dummy rib for the inboard side to go beside R-2B it has to be parallel to rib T-1.
Next you need to plan to move the gear as far forward as possible and that may require making longer mounting rails and taking about I/8 off of the top surface, I will look in my records and see if I still have the sketch of what I did and will post if you like

Sounds like you are making head way.

Cheers Bob T

stevegauth30

Thanks Bob. I'll take any tips you have. I went through a ton of crap with the smaller TF corsair as far as the retracts and doors. I ended up not doing doors. A sketch would be great because I'm not too sure about what you mean in the first part. Thanks again.