ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

To all who are looking for a pilot,
Lt. Doc Miller is up for bid on EBAY starting @ $85.00 ouch

ibow24

My Feedback: (10)

The seller had 2 for sale. I got the first one for $75 (cheaper due to wear on the box). Still cheaper than some other RC specific finished pilots.
When the box arrived the return label was "Frank Tiano" so…I got a Top Gun pilot !

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Good buy Steve, nice when you can save a $$ or 2.

Well a little more up date on my Corsair got the fuse and wing wet sanded and now getting I hope the last coat of primer on, top half of the fuse and the lower half of the wing, due to the wood peckker tracks in the surface of the flap segments Looks like I am going to have to use some bondo putty on them, hope to get the other half of the fuse and wing tomorrow afternoon after work. Work is a bummer when things are moving along/

Cheers Bob T

Fly2XS

My Feedback: (65)

I saw a terrific looking TFGS Corsair registered in the sport scale warbirds section at Toledo!!
This is a TFGS Corsair ARF that has been painted over with latex paint.

i had a chance to talk with the builder Saturday morning and get details.

He used 5" wheels to make it look more scale and has functional elevator boost tabs.
it is electric powered and weighs barely 27 1/2 #.
He built it as an ARF 2 years ago and has been flying it on a 26" 3 blade prop. He painted it in February for Toledo and added the panel lines using a straight edge and an awl.

More to come!


They lost a transformer before lunch Friday and the entire show has been dark since.
It was fixed for Saturday morning.

spaceworm

Great looking plane.
Couple of questions: What primer is/was used to get latex paint to stick to plastic covering? Or, was the plane stripped and recovered?
And a full scale also related question: What actuates the elevator boost tabs? And why is the link to the port tab different than that to the starboard tab as shown in the picture?
Thanks.

ibow24

My Feedback: (10)

WOW….awesome work.

On the full scale the boost tab rods are hard mounted to the stab, When the elevator is up, the tab gets forced down, down, it gets pulled up.
They are different because the CV factory did not build different left and right side elevators. One is mounted right side up and the other upside down. What you see in that picture on the port elevator is the boost tab control arm that goes through the elevator and is hard mounted on the underside of the stab. On the starboard is the boost tab hard mounted on the top side. The two inner sections are the trim tabs… if I remember correctly

Got my center section built this weekend. Hours of measuring, aligning, swearing, sweating… it came out square and true though so it was worth it.

Fly2XS

My Feedback: (65)

I am told that he went over the covering with an iron and pins to ensure it is adequately bonded to the frame before shooting it with latex. He did not need primer since the covering was a flat finish to start with.
The boost tabs are fixed to the trailing edge of the stab as they are on the full size. The other comment is correct as the full size. Horizontal stab is interchangeable for right & left. This means you have the round access panels on top on one side and on the bottom on the other!

ibow24

My Feedback: (10)

Now that I have the center section built I'm thinking I should get the landing gear mounted now. Easier to move around the center section than an entire wing.

From what I read I have lowered (actually raised) the landing gear rails. Anything else to keep in mind? Mount them as forward as possible ?

thanks

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Steve

Yes if you have your gears there is a little pin that come out when it rotates to clear the upper surface you will have to clip it off a bit, then if you have the wheels you will be using, you will have to make dummy wheel well side ribs and if you are planning on gear doors I would recommend using 1/8 ac ply so you have something to mount the hinges to ( they will be at a different angle than T-1 and R-3b)and the aft wall for the wheel well's then the strings to pull the aileron wires with and tubes behind the back wheel well wall. Like I keep saying plan 4steps ahead of what you are doing I have little note's in the margins of my old manual, and I still had to back up a few times

I don't recommend making the boost tabs functional (you don't want the weight) 1/2 oz there will require 3 oz extra in the nose

That's all for tonite

Cheers Bob T

ibow24

My Feedback: (10)

Thanks Bob,
I have the gear and wheels already to go and the boost tabs will be for show. Just fabricating control rods out of plastic pieces etc.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

You-bet-cha Your on the right track. Off to work baaaaaa

Cheers Bob T

ibow24

My Feedback: (10)

Decent progress today. Got the retracts fitted.
Question: Should the retracts be mounted with wood screws or machine screws into blind nuts?

Also got the wing panels fitted to the center section. Time consuming but not the nightmare I imagined it to be.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Machine screws and blind nuts.

ibow24

My Feedback: (10)

thank you

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

What he said, works for me, But because I changed my kit wood rails from some minimum wood in my estimation, to some really nice hard maple I have # 6 sheet metal screws and so far no problems

Cheers Bob T

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

I don't recall having ever used machine screws for mounting retracts. Sheet metal screws work nicely with little chance of them backing out. My .02 cents of course.

ibow24

My Feedback: (10)

2 of each

25 years ago I built a Byron F-16. They only other aircraft I put retracts in. I used sheet metal screws on that but sold the plane right after finishing it. I never heard from the guy on how it flew...or if it flew.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hay Chad

What is your current build ?

Cheers Bob T

ibow24

My Feedback: (10)

Here's the Byron F-16


Another question. I haven't seen it in any pictures. Once the the aileron servo wire gets to the center section are you guys running the wire through the wheel well or behind it? All the pics I see of the wheel well never show any servo wires. Just wondering how you guys routed them.
thanks

stevegauth30

All the way back by the TE. At least that's where I ran mine.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Because I made my own aileron leads,(soldered joints) mine are in a tube to the wheel well then in another tube behind the wheel well, and then fwd in front of the flap servo and into the center. I used the stock flap push rod thru the aft spar and did not want the wire back there. but that is just me.

Cheers Bob T

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

Current build? You mean to say it's possible to be working on just ONE airplane at a time?!!! Unfortunately I'm not getting much time on any of my own projects at the moment as I am concentrating on two airplanes for customers. One is a highly modified Yellow aircraft Spitfire and the other is a 1/3.5 scale Macchi 202 from my own plans. With any luck both will be done by the end of this year and I can go back to work on some of my own stuff!

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Chad
Kinda figured that as have not seen you around some of the threads.

cheers Bob T

ibow24

My Feedback: (10)

Yet another Question. I have been sanding the wing and getting it ready for the skins. I've been looking through the book but haven't found what I'm looking for.
looking at the section views on the plans, it looks like the leading edge remains pretty flat near the root and oil cooler areas however the oil coolers themselves are quite rounded.
Bob T. Your post #193 shows this area and it looks exactly as mine does now….pretty flat. Then look at Wulf190's post #197 he has the oil coolers installed and the leading edge shaped. Are the oil coolers cut into the leading and then the leading edge shaped or do you add a cap strip to the leading edge and blend it all in ?
hopefully that makes sense.. thanks guys

ibow24

My Feedback: (10)

ooops….never mind… somehow I missed the page where is shows to cut a lot of the leading edge to set the inlets in.