rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Like I keep saying read, read, read, measure, measure and still make a mistake Works for me, been there and done it.

Good luck Steve as you are on the right track

Cheers Bob T

ibow24

My Feedback: (10)

Got the bottom outer wing panels sheeted tonight. Wen't quick due to having access to the ribs/sheeting through the top side to apply the Zap..
Not looking forward to sheeting the top sides. Not sure how I'll proceed to insure it's glued tight to all the ribs and spar… Have to think about it.
I like the sheeted foam core's used on the big aerobats I've built…easy and perfect finish.

ibow24

My Feedback: (10)

I'm leaning towards adding navigation lights (LEDs) and now would be the time to do it before completely skinning the wings. I know I've seen schematics other builders have come up but can't find them now. I know this thread is years old and RC lights should be pretty common by now but I can't seem to find a lot of info. They should also be really inexpensive by now as well.
Not sure how many I want. I know I want the red/green wing tips. Rear White and and top fuse blue behind the cockpit. Does anybody know if those 2 were strobes on always on? I know there were some underwing lights too depending on which version of Corsair

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hi Steve

I have never considered adding lights, but I may when I do my CUB bash. Now how find info I would just Google " R C nav lites" I think that is ware I found some venders. but if you look back in RCU, kit building for a thread ( T/F G/S P-47 a diaryof a build ) back in the first 20 to 30 pages I think you will find what Tony did.

A comment I would suggest making some riigid foam saddles to fit your wing, at least 4 places and keep it weighted when you are not working on it. temp/humid can do strange things to balsa structure, and don't ask how I know

Cheers Bob T

ibow24

My Feedback: (10)

I've been googling.. not really finding the "kit" I was hoping for. May just buy parts and build my own. I'm supposed to be an electronics tech anyway, at least that's what they call me at work.

At the same time, it's time to finally decide which version I want to build. I'm leaning towards Lt. Robert Hanson VMF 214/215 F4U-1A. I do have a Ziroli "framless" canopy for a 1D too. I like the Ziroli and I can add the frames since I'm going to make a fiberglass frame anyway.
I'm not a fan of the forward antenna mast. I've seen pictures of the 1A versions with and without the forward mast.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Steve
As I have lost a lot of my notes on the canopy, look back in post's 525 and up Wolf190 did some nice work. and the frame is not to hard to do, and there is a section back there on how to make it. When I built my P-47 I used the method and got a nice frame for it.

Good luck with the lighting thingy.

Cheers Bob T

saramos

I did a thread on making nav lights. Here's the link.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hay Scott

Thanks for jumping in hear, as I had saved most of your post's to my computer but not to my backup drive so when the D@#m thing crashed lost a lot of good info.

Now it's in the right place

Cheers Bob T

ibow24

My Feedback: (10)

thank you. I'll check it out.

Sheeting this wing is not fun. How do you expect to bend an edge glued sheet perpendicular to glue joint without it snapping?…that small top/forward piece in the wing bend.

ibow24

My Feedback: (10)

I did run a #22 twisted pair to each wing tip with the assumption lights are a go.

I'm assuming this is due to the dock strike… Still waiting for my backordered G62zp Ordered March 16

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

Hey RT,
What are you using for receiver batteries these days in the Corsair

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hi George

well When I brook my corsair I was using a 2300 ma. NiMH but as It sat On the bench it seamed to have gone south did a few cycle charge/discharge, still will not hold a charge for moer than an hour, so as my batt's go bad I will be switching to Lipo's

So I have switched the Corsair to a Lipo the 7.4 1000 with a regulator at 5.9 V will have to look for the brand if your interested

Cheers Bob T

cjray

My Feedback: (25)

I'm using LiFe in my other birds running dual batteries on dual switches for the radio system, and a separate ignition battery. No need for a regulator for the servos as the output is a constant 6.6v. I do use a regulator on the ignition though, and I will use this setup in the Corsair also.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hi Jason
I hear what you are saying and as my Nimh packs go, I will be changing to Life packs, I am using Futaba Fsst 617's and some ware if my memory is correct they don't like any thing above 6.2 and that is why I am doing the regulator. and séance I have switched to H/D switch" and wiring, I am still on a single set up. But that is just me.

Cheers Bob T

Nordicz

My Feedback: (7)

Jason & Bob,

I have completely switched over all my planes to LIFE batteries and haven't regretted it. No storage decay and what I have observed is a low rate of discharge per flight in comparison to my NiCads. The biggest drawback I have experiences is not having the extra weight the NiCads provide. Otherwise I have been extremely happy with using the LIFE's. My setups have varied based on the plane and engine used. Just my experiences.

Z

ibow24

My Feedback: (10)

Well the wing is mostly complete. Time to flip the fuse over and start on the bottom which means time to install some control.
It's been a lot of years since I've built a plane with pushrods. All the big aerobats I've been building had the servos mounted near the control surface and I've been using Hanger 9 pro links and ball links. So... What's the hot ticket for pushrods to the tail group?
I need 2 for the elevators, 1 for the rudder, A pull pull for the steering and 1 for the tail retract. I'm using an Earl Aune mechanical tail wheel..
It looks like the pushrods are fairly straight so a stiff C/F rod should work.
as always, thanks for the tips

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hi Steve
Push rods I would still run them thru guides, C/F or the Metal furnished, ball links are a must in my book at the servo arms. If you go to C/F I would only use about an inch of guide at the blkd's.
As long as you have the belly open you can get an Air Cylinder with the correct stroke for the tail wheel and you could mount it the servo plate with a C/F push rod that would move some weight fwd.
One other thing if you have not glued in your air tank I would look at putting it in the belly ban lower surface of the wing again that would move weight from behind the C/G and as I under stand the ARF uses the small tank, but not sure.
Next are you planning on soft mounting your engine per the plans ? if so the soft mount plate can be made out of cold roll steel once you know how much weight you will need in the nose I used 1/2 and it weigh's 3lbs. you can Google steel weight and determine what you will need.

That is more info than you ask for, but it is just some things I would look at if I were building another.

Cheers Bob T
Corsair Brotherhood # 6

ibow24

My Feedback: (10)

good idea using an air cylinder to move the mechanical tail wheel , thanks! To late on the big air cylinder. I started this build a few years ago before I started paying attention to all the build threads happening. I had the top half of the fuse built and it's been sitting ever since waiting for me to get back on it.

By the way... it looks like Tower has this kit back in stock if anybody has been wanting it.

I'm not a big fan of soft mounting the engine. That being said my only experience with gas engines is the DA-100 and DA-50 and always hard mounted them. Vibration was never an issue. I'm using a G62 in this one and from what I've read it seams like there are more guys hard mounting them than soft.

cjray

My Feedback: (25)

You are absolutely right about the weight. I am running 3 2500mah packs sitting in place of the air tank on my FW-190, and I still had to add 6 ounces to the nose, in addition to the factory pre-mounted weight. By the way, 2500mah LiFe batteries are waaaaaay too much. They were originally in my Weeks, but for 4-5 flights at the field, with 7 digital(8 total) servos, I only burned through 250mah, give or take. So, I replaced those with 3 1100mah. I figured the bigger batteries would be better in the FW with the electric retracts and all, but so far after three flights, it still uses very little mah.

Bob, I am running Spektrum though, so I understand on the voltage if Futaba is different. I've also ran a couple of helis with the exact same LiFe setup, with no issue.


On a side note, I hate to admit it, but I'm thinking of cheating. As much as I hate to, I'm thinking of grabbing the ARF wing to finish my plane. Right now, I just don't have the time(or motivation) to build it. In doing so, it would ultimately get me closer to having a flying Corsair, which I really, really need, but it would also give me the ability to transport the plane on it's gear (no, I don't have the skill to convert the kit wing to do that). I plan on pulling the covering, and glassing and painting everything still, so no plastic bird. So, my question is, does anyone forsee any issues with merging a kit fuse and an ARF wing? I know the ARF is different to an extent, but I would hope the wing saddle is roughly the same? Any input? This isn't a done deal, so I may have something change and get the wing knocked, out, it just seems to be a more viable option at this point.

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

We tried this by taking a partially built fuse and my ARF wing. The result is that the bulkhead where the ARF wing mounts to is not in the same place on the kit. Otherwise with that mod and some fitting to the wing saddle you should be OK. Double check wing incidence too.
If I remember right the wing bolt blocks with blind nuts could be flipped to the rear side of the bulkhead or something to that effect. Its not a major deal.

Also, check on the light set up sold with/for the H9 60cc Corsair. They use LED's and a very light wire harness, its done just install it. Ive used their small light kits on small planes for night flying and the prices are reasonable and sets are pretty complete.

The main issue with the ARF wing is the aluminum spars and the retaining screws. After each flight you have to check on them. I would suggest a small round notch made in the edge to seat each screw tip. Thread lock blue didnt really help either. There is one Jesus bolt thru the outboard wing panels that wont loosen up in flight but the others I guarantee you they will. If you can devise another solution it would be good to do it. Otherwise this is a very tough wing and so are the Robart gear.

I used two Large air tanks in my ARF for the gear and never had any issues with cycling the gear in 50 flights. I suggest anyone does the same with the air gear on this plane. Lots of volume is great and gives the system the power to cycle this gear three or four times if you want in flight. One tank up front and one tank under the cockpit. I even had a third smaller tank behind the cockpit at one point but later removed it, not needed.

cjray

My Feedback: (25)

Cool. Thanks for the info Chris. Lol, Like the Naked Gun quote also.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hi guys
I wont argue the soft mount or solid mount, but back when I built my first Corsair I just followed the plans and manual and with a G-62 cup and spring star, thingy, and I still had to add over a pound in the chin between the fire wall and the first blkd, as my first F/G cowl with weight added in it only lasted 2 flights. If I were to ever build another I would just lengthen the fuse and box a full inch, and go woth the solid mount
So the soft mount plate when made of steel all most eliminates any need for additional weight in the cowl.
But that is just my way, and I only suggest things that have worked for me.

Cheers Bob T

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

Lol, no worries

As for nose weight, on my ARF I used about 4lbs of lead duck decoy strip weights, folded them, and boxed them into a convenient space under the engine box on the front of the firewall. The DLE 55RA is very light so I had to add a lot of lead.
The plane came in at about 26lbs AUW. Handled very well at slow speeds and the flaps WORK! Use sparingly.

Warning (speaking of flaps)
Raise the flaps as soon as possible when landing. Especially when using full flaps. They blank out the tail and the rudder becomes less effective even when holding full up to plant the rear wheel for directional control.
Half flaps are less of an issue but anything more proved to me to be tricky.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hay Chris

On the flaps same thing with the kit build. Full stop, raise the flaps and then taxi.

Cheers Bob T

ibow24

My Feedback: (10)

Dang gremlins. Bought a F/S cowl way back when I first got this kit. Never really looked at it til last night. It's the D with the chin scoop on the bottom. Anybody need a D cowl cheap?

Waiting for my CF tubes to arrive to install the rudder control rod.

I have 5 brand new in the package JR 8611A servos that I plan on using for rudder, elevator and ailerons. Also have 2 new 8611's I'll use for flaps. They are old but new with plenty of power / speed and metal gears